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the florida state university college of arts and sciences evolution of ...

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esult <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> buildup <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore bars. Waves approaching <strong>the</strong> shore stir up sea floor sediment.<br />

When <strong>the</strong>se waves break, <strong>the</strong>y lose energy <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> sediment accumulates forming a bar <strong>and</strong><br />

subsequently an isl<strong>and</strong>. Gilbert (1885) suggested that <strong>the</strong> material that forms a bar is transported<br />

along <strong>the</strong> shore by littoral <strong>and</strong> longshore currents ra<strong>the</strong>r than coming from <strong>the</strong> seafloor as<br />

deBeaumont (1845) suggested. These sediments accumulate to form a spit. The spit is <strong>the</strong>n<br />

breached <strong>and</strong> as a result <strong>of</strong> this breach, a barrier isl<strong>and</strong> is formed. Zenkovitch (1962) suggested<br />

that barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s are a product <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sinking <strong>of</strong> wave-built terraces or <strong>the</strong> submergence <strong>of</strong><br />

alluvial plains. Price (1963) proposed that small barriers form as a result <strong>of</strong> storm wave activity.<br />

Leontyev <strong>and</strong> Nikiforov (1966) suggested that barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s form from <strong>of</strong>fshore bars exposed<br />

during a lowering <strong>of</strong> sea level. Hoyt (1967) hypo<strong>the</strong>sized that a barrier isl<strong>and</strong> is formed by <strong>the</strong><br />

building <strong>of</strong> a ridge immediately l<strong>and</strong>ward <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shoreline from wind or water deposited<br />

sediments. Slow submergence floods <strong>the</strong> area l<strong>and</strong>ward <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ridge, forming a barrier <strong>and</strong> a<br />

lagoon.<br />

Although many models have been proposed to explain barrier isl<strong>and</strong> formation, three<br />

models are commonly encountered in <strong>the</strong> literature; 1) <strong>the</strong> upbuilding <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore bars, 2) <strong>the</strong><br />

cutting <strong>of</strong> inlets through spits <strong>and</strong> 3) <strong>the</strong> submergence <strong>of</strong> ridge like coastal features (Schwartz,<br />

1971). The first model is based on <strong>the</strong> aggradation <strong>and</strong> emergence <strong>of</strong> submarine bars<br />

(Zenkovich, 1967). This model suggests that a barrier isl<strong>and</strong> is formed when an <strong>of</strong>fshore bar<br />

builds up to <strong>the</strong> water surface. This <strong>the</strong>ory is generally rejected because to form barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

in this manner, <strong>the</strong> submarine bar would have to build up through <strong>the</strong> surf zone, which is<br />

unlikely because wave action in <strong>the</strong> surf zone would wash away <strong>the</strong> crest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bar <strong>and</strong> prevent<br />

its emergence. The second model is spit progradation parallel to <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>and</strong> segmentation <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> spit by channels (Fisher, 1968). This is similar to <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>ory proposed by Gilbert (1885).<br />

The third model is that barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s are formed by <strong>the</strong> isolation <strong>of</strong> beach <strong>and</strong> dune complexes<br />

due to coastal submergence (Hoyt, 1967). This last <strong>the</strong>ory is <strong>the</strong> most feasible. However, it is<br />

most likely that extensive barrier isl<strong>and</strong> chains have had a composite mode <strong>of</strong> origin, both by spit<br />

progradation <strong>and</strong> by coastal submergence (Reinson, 1992).<br />

Barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s are dynamic systems that migrate l<strong>and</strong>ward in response to sea-level rise,<br />

subsidence or a reduction in sediment supply (Lamont et al., 1997). Most modern barrier isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

have migrated l<strong>and</strong>ward in response to <strong>the</strong> Holocene transgression (Reinson, 1992). Barrier<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>s are abundant along <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico coast. Barrier isl<strong>and</strong> nuclei in <strong>the</strong> Gulf were most<br />

6

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