Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...

European-Asian taste sensations at this
Michelin-starred restaurant by the Rhine,
with an elegant beamed dining room and
riverside terrace. Match perfectly spiced
fi sh dishes and handmade desserts with top
wines from the cellar.
Wirtschaft Zum Frieden SWISS $$
(%052 625 47 67; www.wirtschaft-frieden.ch;
Herrenacker 11; mains Sfr39-48; hlunch & dinner
Tue-Sat; v) Locals have been eating, drinking
and making merry at this cosy woodpanelled
inn since 1445. Join them today
for good, honest regional fare, such as
braised veal cheeks with potato-celery
puree or lake fi sh as well as vegetarian
specials such as curries and dumplings
prepared with market-fresh vegetables.
Gerberstube TRADITIONAL $$
(%052 625 21 55; www.gerberstube.ch; Bachstrasse
8; mains Sfr45-70; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat)
Behind their 1708 rococo facade, the opulent
dining rooms of what in medieval times
was a guildhall are a tempting setting for
carefully prepared traditional cooking. Tuck
into rich oxtail soup with port wine, or
less-traditional curry scampi.
Café Vordergasse CAFE $
(Vordergasse 79; snacks & light meals Sfr10-20;
h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, from 10am
Sun) This art nouveau-style tearoom spills
out onto an ever-popular pavement terrace.
Try sandwiches, salads and quiches with a
homemade lemonade or smoothie.
Fass-Beiz CAFE $
(Webergasse 13; mains Sfr17.50-24.50; hlunch &
dinner Mon-Sat) This laid-back, alternative
cafe does tasty sandwiches and lunch specials.
Music gigs, theatre performances and
art exhibitions take place in the cellar below.
Schäfli SWISS $$
(%052 625 11 47; Unterstadt 21; mains Sfr18-35;
hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Schäfl i has been sizzling
up Rindsfilets (steak fi lets) with sauces
like pepper, cognac or herb since 1970.
Chäs Marili DELI $
(Fronwagplatz 9; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Cheese, glorious cheese is what you’ll fi nd
here, alongside other goodies for your
picnic basket.
6 Drinking & Entertainment
Güterhof LOUNGE
(%052 630 40 40; www.gueterhof.ch; Freierplatz
10, h8am-late) This half-timbered building
was once the goods depot for Rhine river
transport companies. It’s now a super-sleek
combination of bar (with outdoor seating),
cafe, restaurant and sushi bar.
Cuba Bar CLUB
(Safrangasse 2; h4pm-late Mon-Sun) Shabbychic
Old Town party hotspot where DJs
spin house, pop and funk.
Kammgarn LIVE MUSIC
(www.kammgarn.ch, in German; Baumgartenstrasse
19) Tune into the local live music
and cultural scene at this textile-factoryturned-arts-centre,
which also houses an
industrial-cool restaurant (mains Sfr23 to
Sfr32).
8 Information
Main post office (Bahnhofstrasse 34; h7am-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat) Opposite the
train station.
Tourist office (%052 632 40 20; www.schaff
hauserland.ch; Herrenacker 15; h9.30am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12pm & 1.30-6pm Sat & Sun).
8 Getting There & Away
Direct hourly trains run from Zürich (Sfr18.60,
55 minutes). Local trains head half-hourly to
Stein am Rhein (Sfr7.80, 25 minutes). Trains to
St Gallen (Sfr28, 1½ to two hours) usually involve
a change at Winterthur or Romanshorn. There is
plenty of parking (around Sfr1.20 per hour) on
the fringes of the Old Town.
Rheinfall
Ensnared in wispy spray, the thunderous
Rheinfall (Rhine Falls; www.rheinfall.ch) might
not give Niagara much competition in terms
of height (23m), width (150m) or even fl ow of
water (700 cu metre per second in summer),
but it’s a stunning sight nonetheless.
Two medieval castles overlook the falls.
The smaller Schlössli Worth on the north
bank harbours a lounge-style restaurant
(%052 672 24 21; www.schloessliwoerth.ch, in
German; mains Sfr32-44; h11.30am-11.30pm,
closed Wed Sep-Mar), with fl oor-to-ceiling windows
aff ording magical views of the falls,
strikingly illuminated after dark. Marketfresh
cuisine such as pike perch with lemonrocket
risotto is paired with fi ne local wines.
The more imposing Schloss Laufen on
the south bank boasts 1000 years of history
and overlooks the falls at closer quarters.
If the sound of the waterfall lulling you to
sleep at night appeals, you can stay at its
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SCHAFFHAUSEN NORTHEASTERN CANTON SWITZERLAND DRINKING DRINKING RHEINFALL & ENTERTAINMENT
& ENTERTAINMENT