Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...
Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...
Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...
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for views over a patchwork <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>tops<br />
and spires to the Rhine and wooded hills<br />
fringing the city.<br />
Herrenacker SQUARE<br />
Framed by pastel-coloured houses with<br />
steep tiled ro<strong>of</strong>s, this is one <strong>of</strong> Schaff hausen’s<br />
prettiest squares. In August, it’s an<br />
atmospheric backdrop for music fest Das<br />
Festival (www.das-festival.ch); Mika and<br />
Bryan Ferry were headliners in 2011.<br />
2 Activities<br />
Rhybadi SWIMMING<br />
(Rheinuferstrasse; adult/child Sfr3/1.50; h7am-<br />
8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun May-Sep) If<br />
you’re itching to leap into the Rhine, you<br />
can at this rickety 19th-century wooden<br />
bathhouse. There are diving boards and<br />
old-fashioned changing rooms reminiscent<br />
<strong>of</strong> an era when ‘proper’ folk bathed fully<br />
clothed.<br />
Altstadt Walks WALKING TOUR<br />
(adult/child Sfr14/7; h10am Tue & 2pm Sat May–<br />
mid-Oct) These one-hour tours <strong>of</strong> the Old<br />
Town kick <strong>of</strong>f at the tourist <strong>of</strong>fi ce. The wellinformed<br />
guides speak German, English<br />
and French.<br />
Untersee und Rhein BOAT TOUR<br />
(%052 634 08 88; www.urh.ch, in German; Freier<br />
Platz; one-way Sfr46.20; hApr-Oct) The 45km<br />
boat trip from Schaff hausen to Konstanz<br />
via Stein am Rhein and Reichenau is one <strong>of</strong><br />
the Rhine’s more-beautiful stretches. The<br />
journey takes 3¾ hours downstream to<br />
Schaff hausen and 4¾ hours the other way.<br />
See the website for timetables.<br />
4 Sleeping<br />
The tourist <strong>of</strong>fi ce can advise on B&Bs<br />
(expect to pay Sfr55 for a single, Sfr95 for a<br />
double) and holiday apartments.<br />
Park Villa HOTEL $$<br />
(%052 635 60 60; www.parkvilla.ch; Parkstrasse<br />
18; s/d from Sfr170/190, without bathroom from<br />
Sfr80/130; p) The eclectic furniture in this<br />
faintly gothic house resembles a private<br />
antique collection, with an array <strong>of</strong> fourposter<br />
beds, Persian carpets, chandeliers,<br />
patterned wallpaper and fake Ming vases in<br />
rooms. Dine in Louis XVI splendour in the<br />
banquet room.<br />
Hotel Kronenh<strong>of</strong> HOTEL $$<br />
(%052 635 75 75; www.kronenh<strong>of</strong>.ch; Kirchh<strong>of</strong>platz<br />
7; s Sfr125-145, d Sfr175-205, ste Sfr265; W)<br />
A guesthouse since 1489, the Kronenh<strong>of</strong><br />
has welcomed the likes <strong>of</strong> Goethe and Tsar<br />
Alexander. A recent makeover has spruced<br />
up the historic interior, with the best rooms<br />
now fl aunting dark wood fl oors, crimson<br />
walls and bold art. The Ox bistro does a good<br />
steak. Rates drop 20% Friday to Sunday.<br />
Fischerzunft BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$<br />
(%052 632 05 05; www.fi scherzunft.ch; Rheinquai<br />
8; s/d Sfr210/295) The sloping tiled ro<strong>of</strong><br />
and creamy-pink exterior <strong>of</strong> this low-slung<br />
Rhine-side mansion contain this charming<br />
boutique hotel, known above all for its<br />
gourmet restaurant. Rooms are individually<br />
decorated, <strong>of</strong>ten with lashings <strong>of</strong> chintzy<br />
fl oral fabrics.<br />
Hotel Promenade HOTEL $$<br />
(%052 630 77 77; www.promenade-schaff hausen<br />
.ch; Fäsenstaubstrasse 43; s Sfr145-175, d Sfr200-<br />
250; pW) The welcome couldn’t be warmer<br />
at this homely hotel, with large, sunny<br />
rooms, a rose garden and a restaurant dishing<br />
up seasonal cuisine. It’s 600m west <strong>of</strong><br />
Herrenacker.<br />
ZAK Hotel & Backpackers HOSTEL $<br />
(%052 625 42 60; www.zaksh.ch; Webergasse<br />
47; dm/s/d Sfr45/70/110; W) These no-frills<br />
FREEWHEELING ALONG THE<br />
RHINE<br />
The Rhine fl ows swiftly through the<br />
heart <strong>of</strong> Schaff hausen and there’s no<br />
better way to explore further afi eld<br />
than by hiring your own set <strong>of</strong> wheels.<br />
A number <strong>of</strong> well-marked trails shadow<br />
the river and weave through the<br />
surrounding countryside. Scenic rides<br />
include the 20km Rheinfall-Rheinau<br />
route, which leads past the thundering<br />
Rheinfall to the Benedictine monastery<br />
Kloster Rheinau. Or quaff wine as you<br />
peddle through vineyards and past<br />
half-timbered houses on the 43km<br />
Klettgau Wine Route. Details <strong>of</strong> these<br />
and other routes are given on www<br />
.veloland.ch.<br />
At the train station, Rent a Bike<br />
(%051 223 42 17; www.rentabike.ch, in<br />
German) rents out Flyer e-bikes, city<br />
bikes and tandems for Sfr50, Sfr33 and<br />
Sfr80 respectively per day. Book online<br />
or by calling ahead.<br />
271<br />
SCHAFFHAUSEN NORTHEASTERN CANTON SWITZERLAND ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES<br />
SCHAFFHAUSEN