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Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...

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for views over a patchwork <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>tops<br />

and spires to the Rhine and wooded hills<br />

fringing the city.<br />

Herrenacker SQUARE<br />

Framed by pastel-coloured houses with<br />

steep tiled ro<strong>of</strong>s, this is one <strong>of</strong> Schaff hausen’s<br />

prettiest squares. In August, it’s an<br />

atmospheric backdrop for music fest Das<br />

Festival (www.das-festival.ch); Mika and<br />

Bryan Ferry were headliners in 2011.<br />

2 Activities<br />

Rhybadi SWIMMING<br />

(Rheinuferstrasse; adult/child Sfr3/1.50; h7am-<br />

8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun May-Sep) If<br />

you’re itching to leap into the Rhine, you<br />

can at this rickety 19th-century wooden<br />

bathhouse. There are diving boards and<br />

old-fashioned changing rooms reminiscent<br />

<strong>of</strong> an era when ‘proper’ folk bathed fully<br />

clothed.<br />

Altstadt Walks WALKING TOUR<br />

(adult/child Sfr14/7; h10am Tue & 2pm Sat May–<br />

mid-Oct) These one-hour tours <strong>of</strong> the Old<br />

Town kick <strong>of</strong>f at the tourist <strong>of</strong>fi ce. The wellinformed<br />

guides speak German, English<br />

and French.<br />

Untersee und Rhein BOAT TOUR<br />

(%052 634 08 88; www.urh.ch, in German; Freier<br />

Platz; one-way Sfr46.20; hApr-Oct) The 45km<br />

boat trip from Schaff hausen to Konstanz<br />

via Stein am Rhein and Reichenau is one <strong>of</strong><br />

the Rhine’s more-beautiful stretches. The<br />

journey takes 3¾ hours downstream to<br />

Schaff hausen and 4¾ hours the other way.<br />

See the website for timetables.<br />

4 Sleeping<br />

The tourist <strong>of</strong>fi ce can advise on B&Bs<br />

(expect to pay Sfr55 for a single, Sfr95 for a<br />

double) and holiday apartments.<br />

Park Villa HOTEL $$<br />

(%052 635 60 60; www.parkvilla.ch; Parkstrasse<br />

18; s/d from Sfr170/190, without bathroom from<br />

Sfr80/130; p) The eclectic furniture in this<br />

faintly gothic house resembles a private<br />

antique collection, with an array <strong>of</strong> fourposter<br />

beds, Persian carpets, chandeliers,<br />

patterned wallpaper and fake Ming vases in<br />

rooms. Dine in Louis XVI splendour in the<br />

banquet room.<br />

Hotel Kronenh<strong>of</strong> HOTEL $$<br />

(%052 635 75 75; www.kronenh<strong>of</strong>.ch; Kirchh<strong>of</strong>platz<br />

7; s Sfr125-145, d Sfr175-205, ste Sfr265; W)<br />

A guesthouse since 1489, the Kronenh<strong>of</strong><br />

has welcomed the likes <strong>of</strong> Goethe and Tsar<br />

Alexander. A recent makeover has spruced<br />

up the historic interior, with the best rooms<br />

now fl aunting dark wood fl oors, crimson<br />

walls and bold art. The Ox bistro does a good<br />

steak. Rates drop 20% Friday to Sunday.<br />

Fischerzunft BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$<br />

(%052 632 05 05; www.fi scherzunft.ch; Rheinquai<br />

8; s/d Sfr210/295) The sloping tiled ro<strong>of</strong><br />

and creamy-pink exterior <strong>of</strong> this low-slung<br />

Rhine-side mansion contain this charming<br />

boutique hotel, known above all for its<br />

gourmet restaurant. Rooms are individually<br />

decorated, <strong>of</strong>ten with lashings <strong>of</strong> chintzy<br />

fl oral fabrics.<br />

Hotel Promenade HOTEL $$<br />

(%052 630 77 77; www.promenade-schaff hausen<br />

.ch; Fäsenstaubstrasse 43; s Sfr145-175, d Sfr200-<br />

250; pW) The welcome couldn’t be warmer<br />

at this homely hotel, with large, sunny<br />

rooms, a rose garden and a restaurant dishing<br />

up seasonal cuisine. It’s 600m west <strong>of</strong><br />

Herrenacker.<br />

ZAK Hotel & Backpackers HOSTEL $<br />

(%052 625 42 60; www.zaksh.ch; Webergasse<br />

47; dm/s/d Sfr45/70/110; W) These no-frills<br />

FREEWHEELING ALONG THE<br />

RHINE<br />

The Rhine fl ows swiftly through the<br />

heart <strong>of</strong> Schaff hausen and there’s no<br />

better way to explore further afi eld<br />

than by hiring your own set <strong>of</strong> wheels.<br />

A number <strong>of</strong> well-marked trails shadow<br />

the river and weave through the<br />

surrounding countryside. Scenic rides<br />

include the 20km Rheinfall-Rheinau<br />

route, which leads past the thundering<br />

Rheinfall to the Benedictine monastery<br />

Kloster Rheinau. Or quaff wine as you<br />

peddle through vineyards and past<br />

half-timbered houses on the 43km<br />

Klettgau Wine Route. Details <strong>of</strong> these<br />

and other routes are given on www<br />

.veloland.ch.<br />

At the train station, Rent a Bike<br />

(%051 223 42 17; www.rentabike.ch, in<br />

German) rents out Flyer e-bikes, city<br />

bikes and tandems for Sfr50, Sfr33 and<br />

Sfr80 respectively per day. Book online<br />

or by calling ahead.<br />

271<br />

SCHAFFHAUSEN NORTHEASTERN CANTON SWITZERLAND ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES<br />

SCHAFFHAUSEN

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