Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...
Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ... Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...
284 NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND SÄNTIS 8 Getting There & Away From Appenzell, there is a frequent bus service to Stein (Sfr6.80, 12 minutes). Trains run from St Gallen to Buchs (Sfr19.80, 55 minutes), where you can pick up local buses to Werdenberg, Wildhaus and Schaan in Liechtenstein. Säntis Small in Swiss terms, the jagged Säntis peak (2503m) is the highest in this part of Switzerland. It off ers a marvellous panorama encompassing Lake Constance, Zürichsee, the Alps and the Vorarlberg Mountains. Take the train from Appenzell to Urnäsch and transfer to the bus (approximately hourly) to Schwägalp (Sfr9). From Schwägalp, the cable car, Säntisbahn (www.saentisbahn.ch; oneway/return Sfr29/41; h7.30am-6pm Jun–mid-Oct, 8.30am-5pm mid-Oct–May) glides to the summit every 30 minutes. From Säntis, you can walk along the ridge to the neighbouring peak of Ebenalp (1640m) in about 3½ hours. At Wildkirchli on Ebenalp there are prehistoric caves showing traces of Stone Age habitation. The descent to the jewel-coloured Seealpsee on foot takes 1½ hours. Alternatively, a cable car (www.ebenalp.ch, in German; one-way/ return in May-Nov Sfr19/27, half-/full day in Dec- Apr Sfr28/33) runs between the summit and Wasserauen approximately every 30 minutes. Wasserauen and Appenzell are connected by rail (Sfr4.60, 11 minutes). By the lake, family-run dairy Seealpkäse (%079 441 22 73; www.seealpchaes.ch, in German; hJun-Aug) sells delicious cheese specialities, including varieties made with wild garlic and chilli. For a glowing complexion, you can bathe in whey in a wooden bathtub (Sfr45) and gaze up at the mountains. Back in Schwägalp, you can hire Nordic walking poles, snowshoes and sledges for Sfr7, Sfr19 and Sfr10 per day respectively at Berghotel Schwägalp (%071 365 66 00; www .saentisbahn.ch; dm/s/d/tr Sfr50/95/160/240), a rustic mountain hotel with cosy pine-clad rooms and a show dairy. Walensee Walensee is a long fi nger of a lake along the A3 freeway (and railway line) that connects Zürich with Graubünden. The limestone Churfi rsten mountains rise spectacularly above its north fl ank, occasionally inter- rupted by a coastal hamlet or upland pasture and, about halfway along the lakefront, seemingly cracked open by Switzerland’s highest waterfall. 1 Sights & Activities Windsurfers and wakeboarders breeze across Walensee’s turquoise waters in summer. Flumserberg MOUNTAIN (www.fl umserberg.ch) For a little Alpine fun, take the winding mountain road westward from Flums to a series of villages and Flumserberg, perched high above the lake and facing the impenetrable rock wall of the Churfi rsten range. The mountain is the starting point for high-alpine hikes like the 13km 7-Gipfel Tour, taking in seven peaks and aff ording mind-blowing views of the Swiss Alps and Walensee. Allow roughly 6½ hours for the round trip hike. For families, there are buggy-friendly footpaths, adventure playgrounds and a toboggan run, Floomzer. In winter the same slopes lure skiers, who pound the powder on 65km of wellmaintained pistes catering to all levels. A day ski pass costs Sfr53 for adults and Sfr26.50 for children. Snowboarders fl ock here for the terrain parks, half-pipe and excellent freeriding opportunities. Seerenbachfälle WATERFALL This series of three colossal waterfalls, thundering down 585m from top to bottom, is fuelled by a complex network of underground rivers running through the mountain rock from as far away as the peak of Säntis. The middle waterfall, a 305m drop, is considered Switzerland’s highest. The closest you can reach by car is Betlis, a 30-minute hike away. Weesen WALKING Petite and pretty, Weesen is the perfect base for exploring the lake, with a Geneva-style fountain shooting high into the air. A path along Walensee’s north shore links Weesen to Walenstadt (about 6½ hours) or vice versa. The walk takes you along the lake shore, through dense forest and meadows and past a smattering of houses. Murgsee WALKING A challenging, classic Alpine trail leads from Maschgenkamm top station to the inky blue Murgsee lakes. You’ll hike through silent pastures cloaked in wildfl owers, and forests of chestnuts and pines. The round trek takes around seven hours (not including stops).
SARDONA A wild and wonderful area of glaciated mountains rises up around Piz Sardona (3056m), the highest peak in St Gallen. Few have the pleasure of exploring this Alpine area, spread out along the boundary with Graubünden. The 32,000-hectare Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona was designated a Unesco World Natural Heritage site in 2008 for its unique geology. It’s one of the best places in the world to observe mountain creation and plate tectonics. To get there, take one of two minor roads southwest from Bad Ragaz. Both climb rapidly, one passing via Pfäfers and the other via Valens and Vasön. Where they join, you enter the Taminatal, a spectacular valley, mixing high pastureland with dense forest (the autumn colours are nearly as vivid as in Maine in the USA). After 20km you reach the foot of the jewel-coloured Gigerwaldsee reservoir. The road climbs to skirt its southern shore and reach St Martin, a stuck-in-time Walser-speaking hamlet. You can stay at the dark-wood chalet (%081 306 12 34; www.sankt-martin.ch, in German; dm/s/d Sfr36/70/120; hMay–mid-Oct), the perfect base for a couple of days’ majestic walking. An easy trail heads two hours west to the scenic lookout at Sardona Alp. Another hour is needed to reach the mountain refuge Sardona Hütte (%081 306 13 88; dm adult/child Sfr31/16 hJul-Sep) at 2158m. Amden WALKING A 6km drive northeast of Weesen leads to the high pasture plateau of Amden, with arresting lake and mountain views. It seems like Zeus himself scattered the houses and barns here. There is some nice walking amid the green fi elds and a bit of snow activity in winter. Schiffsbetrieb Walensee BOAT TOUR (www.walenseeschiff .ch) Boats regularly cross Murg and Quinten. From April to mid- October there are also regular boats between Weesen and Walenstadt, calling in at various spots along the way (including Betlis and Quinten). 4 Sleeping & Eating There are a few cheaper places further away from the lake, outside Weesen. Lofthotel Murg BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%081 720 35 75; www.lofthotel.ch; Murg; s Sfr120- 180, d Sfr180-240; W) A 19th-century cotton mill has been reincarnated as the Lofthotel, aff ording fi ne views of the Churfi rsten mountains and Walensee. Clean lines, polished concrete and bold artworks defi ne the industrial-chic rooms, which sport fl atscreen TVs and iPod docks. Farm-fresh produce and homemade preserves are served at breakfast (Sfr20). Parkhotel Schwert HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (%055 616 14 74; www.parkhotelschwert.ch; Hauptstrasse 23, Weesen; s/d Sfr129/190; W) Looking back on 600 years of history, this elegantly restored hotel has individually decorated rooms with parquet fl oors. Market-fresh fi sh, meat and French classics are on the menu in the brasserie and on the lake-facing terrace. Landgasthof Paradiesli GUESTHOUSE $$ (%055 611 11 79; s/d with bathroom Sfr135/170, without bathroom Sfr75/140; c) The silence is interrupted only by the distant roar of the waterfalls, birdsong and cowbells at this beautiful spot in upper Betlis. The lodge has rustic rooms, a fi ne garden (not to mention the pet llamas) and views south to the shore and mountains beyond. Hotel Siesta HOTEL $ (%081 733 00 13; www.hotel-siesta.ch, in German; Tannenboden, Flumserberg; s/d Sfr190/ 260; c) A warm and friendly family-run sleeping option near the slopes. Prices drop considerably in summer. Fischerstube SWISS $$ (%055 616 16 08; Marktgasse 9, Weesen; mains Sfr30-50; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Snowy white linen and bottle-green wood panelling create a refi ned backdrop for well-executed fi sh dishes here. Pair fi ne wines with local whitefi sh and perch. Hotel Walensee Trattoria ITALIAN $$ (%055 616 16 04; Hauptstrasse 27, Weesen; mains Sfr26-38; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sun; c) The pasta, fi sh and wood-fi red pizza are spot-on 285 ST NORTHEASTERN GALLEN & APPENZELL SWITZERLAND CANTONS SLEEPING WALENSEE SLEEPING & EATING & EATING
- Page 1 and 2: Switzerland Northeastern Switzerlan
- Page 3 and 4: Northeastern Switzerland Highlights
- Page 5 and 6: for views over a patchwork of rooft
- Page 7 and 8: European-Asian taste sensations at
- Page 9 and 10: MILKY WAY Forget horses, donkeys an
- Page 11 and 12: 8 Getting Around Various ferry comp
- Page 13 and 14: Textilmuseum MUSEUM (www.textilmuse
- Page 15 and 16: exquisite chocolate in liquid and s
- Page 17: START BRÜLISAU END WILDHAUS DISTAN
- Page 21: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Lt
SARDONA<br />
A wild and wonderful area <strong>of</strong> glaciated mountains rises up around Piz Sardona (3056m),<br />
the highest peak in St Gallen. Few have the pleasure <strong>of</strong> exploring this Alpine area, spread out<br />
along the boundary with Graubünden. The 32,000-hectare Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona<br />
was designated a Unesco World Natural Heritage site in 2008 for its unique geology. It’s one<br />
<strong>of</strong> the best places in the world to observe mountain creation and plate tectonics.<br />
To get there, take one <strong>of</strong> two minor roads southwest from Bad Ragaz. Both climb<br />
rapidly, one passing via Pfäfers and the other via Valens and Vasön. Where they join, you<br />
enter the Taminatal, a spectacular valley, mixing high pastureland with dense forest (the<br />
autumn colours are nearly as vivid as in Maine in the USA).<br />
After 20km you reach the foot <strong>of</strong> the jewel-coloured Gigerwaldsee reservoir. The road<br />
climbs to skirt its southern shore and reach St Martin, a stuck-in-time Walser-speaking<br />
hamlet. You can stay at the dark-wood chalet (%081 306 12 34; www.sankt-martin.ch, in<br />
German; dm/s/d Sfr36/70/120; hMay–mid-Oct), the perfect base for a couple <strong>of</strong> days’ majestic<br />
walking.<br />
An easy trail heads two hours west to the scenic lookout at Sardona Alp. Another hour<br />
is needed to reach the mountain refuge Sardona Hütte (%081 306 13 88; dm adult/child<br />
Sfr31/16 hJul-Sep) at 2158m.<br />
Amden WALKING<br />
A 6km drive northeast <strong>of</strong> Weesen leads<br />
to the high pasture plateau <strong>of</strong> Amden,<br />
with arresting lake and mountain views.<br />
It seems like Zeus himself scattered the<br />
houses and barns here. There is some nice<br />
walking amid the green fi elds and a bit <strong>of</strong><br />
snow activity in winter.<br />
Schiffsbetrieb Walensee BOAT TOUR<br />
(www.walenseeschiff .ch) Boats regularly cross<br />
Murg and Quinten. From April to mid-<br />
October there are also regular boats between<br />
Weesen and Walenstadt, calling in at<br />
various spots along the way (including Betlis<br />
and Quinten).<br />
4 Sleeping & Eating<br />
There are a few cheaper places further away<br />
from the lake, outside Weesen.<br />
L<strong>of</strong>thotel Murg BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$<br />
(%081 720 35 75; www.l<strong>of</strong>thotel.ch; Murg; s Sfr120-<br />
180, d Sfr180-240; W) A 19th-century cotton<br />
mill has been reincarnated as the L<strong>of</strong>thotel,<br />
aff ording fi ne views <strong>of</strong> the Churfi rsten<br />
mountains and Walensee. Clean lines, polished<br />
concrete and bold artworks defi ne<br />
the industrial-chic rooms, which sport fl atscreen<br />
TVs and iPod docks. Farm-fresh produce<br />
and homemade preserves are served at<br />
breakfast (Sfr20).<br />
Parkhotel Schwert HISTORIC HOTEL $$<br />
(%055 616 14 74; www.parkhotelschwert.ch; Hauptstrasse<br />
23, Weesen; s/d Sfr129/190; W) Looking<br />
back on 600 years <strong>of</strong> history, this elegantly<br />
restored hotel has individually decorated<br />
rooms with parquet fl oors. Market-fresh<br />
fi sh, meat and French classics are on the<br />
menu in the brasserie and on the lake-facing<br />
terrace.<br />
Landgasth<strong>of</strong> Paradiesli GUESTHOUSE $$<br />
(%055 611 11 79; s/d with bathroom Sfr135/170,<br />
without bathroom Sfr75/140; c) The silence is<br />
interrupted only by the distant roar <strong>of</strong> the<br />
waterfalls, birdsong and cowbells at this<br />
beautiful spot in upper Betlis. The lodge has<br />
rustic rooms, a fi ne garden (not to mention<br />
the pet llamas) and views south to the shore<br />
and mountains beyond.<br />
Hotel Siesta HOTEL $<br />
(%081 733 00 13; www.hotel-siesta.ch, in German;<br />
Tannenboden, Flumserberg; s/d Sfr190/<br />
260; c) A warm and friendly family-run<br />
sleeping option near the slopes. Prices<br />
drop considerably in summer.<br />
Fischerstube SWISS $$<br />
(%055 616 16 08; Marktgasse 9, Weesen; mains<br />
Sfr30-50; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Snowy<br />
white linen and bottle-green wood panelling<br />
create a refi ned backdrop for well-executed<br />
fi sh dishes here. Pair fi ne wines with local<br />
whitefi sh and perch.<br />
Hotel Walensee Trattoria ITALIAN $$<br />
(%055 616 16 04; Hauptstrasse 27, Weesen; mains<br />
Sfr26-38; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sun; c) The<br />
pasta, fi sh and wood-fi red pizza are spot-on<br />
285<br />
ST NORTHEASTERN GALLEN & APPENZELL SWITZERLAND CANTONS SLEEPING WALENSEE SLEEPING & EATING & EATING
Change language