Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...

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NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND SÄNTIS
8 Getting There & Away
From Appenzell, there is a frequent bus
service to Stein (Sfr6.80, 12 minutes). Trains
run from St Gallen to Buchs (Sfr19.80,
55 minutes), where you can pick up local
buses to Werdenberg, Wildhaus and Schaan
in Liechtenstein.
Säntis
Small in Swiss terms, the jagged Säntis peak
(2503m) is the highest in this part of Switzerland.
It off ers a marvellous panorama
encompassing Lake Constance, Zürichsee,
the Alps and the Vorarlberg Mountains. Take
the train from Appenzell to Urnäsch and
transfer to the bus (approximately hourly) to
Schwägalp (Sfr9). From Schwägalp, the cable
car, Säntisbahn (www.saentisbahn.ch; oneway/return
Sfr29/41; h7.30am-6pm Jun–mid-Oct,
8.30am-5pm mid-Oct–May) glides to the summit
every 30 minutes.
From Säntis, you can walk along the
ridge to the neighbouring peak of Ebenalp
(1640m) in about 3½ hours. At Wildkirchli
on Ebenalp there are prehistoric caves
showing traces of Stone Age habitation.
The descent to the jewel-coloured Seealpsee
on foot takes 1½ hours. Alternatively,
a cable car (www.ebenalp.ch, in German; one-way/
return in May-Nov Sfr19/27, half-/full day in Dec-
Apr Sfr28/33) runs between the summit and
Wasserauen approximately every 30 minutes.
Wasserauen and Appenzell are connected
by rail (Sfr4.60, 11 minutes). By the lake,
family-run dairy Seealpkäse (%079 441 22
73; www.seealpchaes.ch, in German; hJun-Aug)
sells delicious cheese specialities, including
varieties made with wild garlic and chilli.
For a glowing complexion, you can bathe in
whey in a wooden bathtub (Sfr45) and gaze
up at the mountains.
Back in Schwägalp, you can hire Nordic
walking poles, snowshoes and sledges for
Sfr7, Sfr19 and Sfr10 per day respectively at
Berghotel Schwägalp (%071 365 66 00; www
.saentisbahn.ch; dm/s/d/tr Sfr50/95/160/240), a
rustic mountain hotel with cosy pine-clad
rooms and a show dairy.
Walensee
Walensee is a long fi nger of a lake along the
A3 freeway (and railway line) that connects
Zürich with Graubünden. The limestone
Churfi rsten mountains rise spectacularly
above its north fl ank, occasionally inter-
rupted by a coastal hamlet or upland pasture
and, about halfway along the lakefront,
seemingly cracked open by Switzerland’s
highest waterfall.
1 Sights & Activities
Windsurfers and wakeboarders breeze across
Walensee’s turquoise waters in summer.
Flumserberg MOUNTAIN
(www.fl umserberg.ch) For a little Alpine fun,
take the winding mountain road westward
from Flums to a series of villages and Flumserberg,
perched high above the lake and
facing the impenetrable rock wall of the
Churfi rsten range. The mountain is the starting
point for high-alpine hikes like the 13km
7-Gipfel Tour, taking in seven peaks and
aff ording mind-blowing views of the Swiss
Alps and Walensee. Allow roughly 6½ hours
for the round trip hike. For families, there
are buggy-friendly footpaths, adventure
playgrounds and a toboggan run, Floomzer.
In winter the same slopes lure skiers,
who pound the powder on 65km of wellmaintained
pistes catering to all levels.
A day ski pass costs Sfr53 for adults and
Sfr26.50 for children. Snowboarders fl ock
here for the terrain parks, half-pipe and
excellent freeriding opportunities.
Seerenbachfälle WATERFALL
This series of three colossal waterfalls,
thundering down 585m from top to
bottom, is fuelled by a complex network
of underground rivers running through
the mountain rock from as far away as
the peak of Säntis. The middle waterfall,
a 305m drop, is considered Switzerland’s
highest. The closest you can reach by car is
Betlis, a 30-minute hike away.
Weesen WALKING
Petite and pretty, Weesen is the perfect base
for exploring the lake, with a Geneva-style
fountain shooting high into the air. A path
along Walensee’s north shore links Weesen
to Walenstadt (about 6½ hours) or vice
versa. The walk takes you along the lake
shore, through dense forest and meadows
and past a smattering of houses.
Murgsee WALKING
A challenging, classic Alpine trail leads from
Maschgenkamm top station to the inky blue
Murgsee lakes. You’ll hike through silent
pastures cloaked in wildfl owers, and forests
of chestnuts and pines. The round trek takes
around seven hours (not including stops).