Switzerland7-Northeastern Switzerland - John Covey - University of ...

280
NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND ST GALLEN
ALTSTADT ORIELS
Many houses of Old St Gallen boast
elaborate Erker (oriel bay windows),
especially around Gallusplatz,
Spisergasse, Schmiedgasse and
Kugelgasse. The city’s tourism folk have
counted them all up and reckon there
are 111 oriel windows! Some bear the
most extraordinary timber sculptures –
a refl ection of the wealth of their onetime
owners, mostly textile barons.
4 Sleeping
St Gallen is a business town, which can
make beds scarce and prices high.
Hotel Dom BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(%071 227 71 71; www.hoteldom.ch; Webergasse 22;
s/d Sfr175/245; pW) An almost startlingly
modern hotel, plonked in the middle of the
Old Town. The room decor is razor-sharp
with clean lines, backlit walls and bold
colours. Genuinely friendly staff and a
generous breakfast buff et sweeten the deal.
Einstein Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$$
(%071 227 55 55; www.einstein.ch; Berneggstrasse
2; s Sfr175-225, d Sfr300-450; piW) Silk
curtains, cherry-wood furnishings and
plush lamb-wool rugs grace the spacious
rooms at this grand 19th-century pile.
Relax with a swim in the strikingly lit
atrium pool or a massage in the spa. The
panoramic rooftop restaurant (mains Sfr26
to Sfr48) emphasises regional cuisine.
Hotel Vadian HOTEL $$
(%071 228 18 78; www.hotel-vadian.com; Gallusstrasse
36; s Sfr99-150, d Sfr150-240; W) You
can’t get much closer to the heart of St
Gallen at these prices. The hotel was
recently given an overhaul and varied
modern rooms are in perfect nick. Some
have nice touches, like ceiling beams.
Schwanen GUESTHOUSE $
(%071 222 65 62; www.schwanenpizza.ch, in
German; Webergasse 23; s/d/tr Sfr95/160/230)
Set above a pizzeria, the Schwanen’s rooms
are clean, compact and simple. The location
just steps from the abbey is a boon.
S YHA Hostel HOSTEL $
(%071 245 47 77; www.youthhostel.ch/st.gallen;
Jüchstrasse 25; dm Sfr32, s/d/q per person
Sfr60/45/37; i) Nestling in leafy grounds,
this modern hillside hostel is only a 15minute
walk from the Old Town – or take
the Trogenerbähnli (S12) from the train
station to Birnbäume.
5 Eating & Drinking
St Gallen is noted for its Erststock-Beizli,
traditional taverns situated on the 1st fl oor
of half-timbered houses.
oBäumli SWISS $$
(%071 222 11 74; Schmiedgasse 18; mains Sfr22-
47; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) A late-medieval
building houses a timeless eatery that showcases
all the typical 1st-fl oor specialities,
from bratwurst with fried onions (Sfr12.80)
to lamb cutlets, Wiener schnitzel, Cordon
bleus (pork schnitzel stuff ed with ham and
cheese), Geschnetzeltes (a sliced pork or
veal dish) and Mostbröggli (smoked beef
jerky).
Segreto ITALIAN $$
(%071 290 11 11; www.segreto.ch; Abacus-Platz 1;
mains Sfr42-45; hlunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner
Sat) Clean, bright Mediterranean fl avours
dominate at this chic Italian. Imaginative
starters like veal tartar with black olives,
basil and white tomato ice cream are followed
by homemade pasta and mains such
as poached halibut with raspberry sauce.
The wine list is fi rst-rate. It’s 4km north of
town; take bus 12 to Abacus-Platz.
Wirtschaft zur Alten Post FUSION $$
(%071 222 66 01; Gallusstrasse 4; mains Sfr22-47;
hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Things are a little
ritzy at this upmarket but historical Beizl
(tavern), where St Gallen specialities like fat
veal sausages with rösti are complemented
by more-original creations such as Pyrenean
milk-fed lamb in an olive-herb crust.
Focacceria CAFE $
(Metzgergasse 22; foccacia Sfr6.50-16.50; h11ammidnight
Tue-Sat) Join the midday crowds here
for delicious focaccia prepared with homemade
antipasti and spreads, speciality teas
and coff ees.
Metzgerei Gemperli SAUSAGES $
(Schmiedgasse 34; sausages from Sfr6.50; h8am-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat) Bite into the best
OLMA bratwurst, served plain in a Bürli
(bun), at this butcher–sausage stand combo.
Chocolaterie CAFE $
(%071 222 57 70; Gallusstrasse 20; h1-6.30pm
Mon, 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat) For