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Colour Chronicle - Oct 2009 - Clariant

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TLP Division<br />

<strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Chronicle</strong><br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited Publication<br />

for the Textile, Leather, Paper and allied processing industries<br />

30 th year of publication<br />

Number 2 | <strong>2009</strong>


colour chronicle e 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Contents<br />

textile 3<br />

Resin finish<br />

Garment finish<br />

q&a 10<br />

Textile – an essential, rich heritage<br />

paper 13<br />

Surface sizing additives<br />

new arrivals 17<br />

inside views 20<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Global Shoe Concept:<br />

Society of Dyes and <strong>Colour</strong>ists<br />

gleanings from press 22<br />

2 colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong>


Resin finish<br />

High-end Resin finish<br />

Purpose:<br />

Excellent wash and wear properties<br />

No ironing or easy to iron<br />

Shape memory<br />

Washfast softness<br />

Washfast smoothness<br />

Wearing comfort<br />

For successful crosslinking<br />

Arkofix NDL liquid c<br />

Low HCHO cross-linking agent for resin fi nishing of<br />

cellulosic fi bres<br />

Arkofix NDF liquid c<br />

Cross-linking agent with very low HCHO values (Law 112)<br />

for resin fi nishing of cotton and viscose<br />

(CV=stronger catalysis required)<br />

Arkofix NEC / NES liquid c<br />

Chlorine retention resistant cross-linking agent with very low<br />

HCHO values (Law 112) for resin fi nishing of viscose and<br />

selected Co qualities<br />

New Arkofix NZF liquid<br />

HCHO-free cross-linking agent for resin fi nishing of<br />

cellulosic fi bres<br />

Important points for Easy - Care,<br />

Crease Resist, No Iron<br />

Fabric and process have to be studied for this purpose and<br />

very well controlled especially for pure cotton fabrics.<br />

More resin, more performance! But the restricting factor<br />

is the loss in strength.<br />

30 to 45 % loss of tensile strength have to be taken into<br />

account.<br />

Fabric: good cotton fi bers quality<br />

extra long staples<br />

yarn construction (no open end for shirts)<br />

weaving and design<br />

textile<br />

Pre-treatment: Very well controlled to ensure minimal damage;<br />

liquid ammonia is a must for<br />

non-iron shirts<br />

Dyeing: All dyes can be used for dry process<br />

(Pad Dry Cure).<br />

Pigments, vat and sulfur dyes are suitable for moist cure.<br />

For wet cure only pigment printed, white fabrics<br />

and some vat dyes are possible.<br />

Before resin fi nishing the pH of the fabric must be slightly acidic<br />

and no alkalinity<br />

Alkalinity < 0.04 g NaOH/100 g of fabric<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 3


4<br />

textile<br />

Physical performance of resin<br />

treated goods<br />

Advantages and drawbacks of resin finish<br />

+ Durable press rating<br />

+ Low creasing<br />

+ High CRA<br />

+ Easy to iron / non iron<br />

+ Dimension stability<br />

- Loss in tensile strength<br />

- Loss in tear strength<br />

- Abrasion resistance<br />

- Formaldehyde content<br />

Selection of softeners and<br />

additives:<br />

Effects influenced by the right selection<br />

soft handle effect<br />

improvement of tear strength (Elmendorf)<br />

improvement of crease recovery angle<br />

improvement of wash and wear appearance (DP rate)<br />

facilitated ironing<br />

wearing properties<br />

wash permanence<br />

seam slippage<br />

take into account: compatibility with each other, HLV<br />

Influence of additives on tear<br />

resistance<br />

Tearing behaviour according to Elmendorf<br />

cN<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Arkofix NDF Liq<br />

Raw material<br />

NDF + Fatty acid softener<br />

NDF + Solusoft MW<br />

NDF + Ceraperm SAP<br />

NDF + Solusoft UP<br />

NDF + Velustrol P40<br />

NDF + P40/MW/UP<br />

0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500<br />

Number of Rotations (thousand)<br />

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14<br />

Permanent Press Influence of<br />

additives<br />

Smoothness aspect (Durable Press)<br />

Raw material<br />

Arkofix NDF Liq<br />

NDF + Fatty acid softener<br />

Arkofix NDF Liq<br />

NDF + Solusoft MW<br />

NDF + Ceraperm SAP<br />

NDF + Solusoft UP<br />

Resistance of pressed creases folds<br />

(Durable Press)<br />

NDF + Velustrol P40<br />

NDF + P40/MW/UP<br />

NDF + Solusoft MW<br />

NDF + Ceraperm SAP<br />

NDF + Solusoft UP<br />

NDF + Velustrol P40<br />

NDF + Fatty acid softener<br />

NDF + P40/MW/UP<br />

0 2 4 6<br />

Raw material<br />

Arkofix NDF Liq<br />

NDF + Solusoft MW<br />

NDF + Ceraperm SAP<br />

NDF + Solusoft UP<br />

NDF + Velustrol P40<br />

NDF + Fatty acid softener<br />

NDF + P40/MW/UP<br />

0 2 4 6 8


Different methods to determine<br />

the smoothness appearance<br />

Common evaluation methods for smoothness appearance<br />

are:<br />

“Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home<br />

launderings” AATCC 124<br />

ISO 7768 - M&S P134 – DIN EN ISO 15487 -<br />

AFNOR G 07 137-2<br />

Monsanto 1 2 3 3.5 4 5<br />

Smoothness<br />

Appearance<br />

AATCC 124<br />

(Idem für<br />

M&S P134) 1 2 3 3.5 4 5<br />

DIN 53895 1 2 4 6 8 10<br />

100% Cotton<br />

Arkofix NDF liq c 40 - 60 g/l<br />

Catalyst NKS liq 10 - 15 g/l<br />

Ceraperm SAP liq 20 g/l<br />

Solusoft UP liq 30 g/l<br />

Hydroperm RPU liq 20 g/l<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

pickup 70-80%<br />

dry at 130°C<br />

cure for 3 minutes at 150°C<br />

Knitwear recipes<br />

Standard Öko-Easy-Finish<br />

recommendation<br />

Arkofix NDF liq c g/l 20-45 –<br />

Catalyst NKS liq g/l 8-12 –<br />

Arkofix NDK liq g/l – 25-50<br />

Ceralube SVN liq g/l 30-45 –<br />

Solusoft MW liq or<br />

Solusoft UP liq g/l 15 –<br />

Ceraperm SAP liq g/l – 30-40<br />

Hostapal MRN liq c g/l 0.5 0.5<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

pickup 70-80%<br />

dry at cure 170°C; curing time 15 sec.<br />

textile<br />

Formaldehyde-free resin finish on<br />

cotton<br />

Knit Woven<br />

Arkofix NZF New liq 40 - 90 60-180 g/l<br />

Ceralube SVN liq 25 - 35 – g/l<br />

Solusoft MW liq or – 25 g/l<br />

Solusoft WA liq 15 – g/l<br />

Solusoft ACN liq – 15 g/l<br />

Velustrol P40 liq – 20 g/l<br />

Hostapal MRN liq hc 0.5 0.5 g/l<br />

Catalyst NKD liq 4 - 9 6 - 15 g/l<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

Dry: 110 - 130°C<br />

Cure: 20 - 30 s at 160°C<br />

Eco Easy Finish<br />

The simple All in One easy care finish with compound<br />

products<br />

Specially for knit goods of cellulosic fi bres and their<br />

blends with synthetics<br />

One stage process<br />

Guide recipe for outerwear and T-Shirts (white and<br />

coloured)<br />

Stage 1 30-40 g/l Arkofix NDK liq<br />

30-50 g/l Ceraperm SAP liq<br />

0.1-0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c<br />

pad cold<br />

pickup 70-80 %<br />

shock cure for 20-15 s at 170-180°C<br />

(temperature of the goods)<br />

Top-Tex<br />

The uncomplicated Easy Care finish with variable building<br />

block system<br />

For woven and knit goods of cotton and its blends with<br />

synthetic fi bres<br />

One stage process<br />

Guide recipe 100 % Co fabric (lightweight fabric; white<br />

or coloured goods)<br />

Stage 1 30-70 g/l Arkofix NDF liq c<br />

8-17 g/l Catalyst NKS liq<br />

15 g/l Solusoft UP liq<br />

35-40 g/l Ceraperm SAP liq<br />

20 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq<br />

0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

pickup 70-80%<br />

shock cure for 20-15 seconds at 170-180°C<br />

(temperature of the goods) or dry at 130°C and cure 150°C<br />

3 minutes<br />

calendar, sanforize if necessary.<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 5


6<br />

textile<br />

LT-Cure Finish<br />

The comprehensive low risk finish for highest demands as<br />

an alternative to moist crosslinking with almost the same<br />

effects (no change of shade)<br />

For woven goods of 100 % Cotton.<br />

Three stage process<br />

Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)<br />

Stage 1 Resin finish<br />

150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF/NEC Plus liq c*<br />

28-34 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq<br />

10-30 g/l Solusoft MW liq c<br />

30-40 g/l Velustrol P40 liq<br />

0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

pickup 60-70 %<br />

dry at 80°C to residual humidity of 5-8%, then cure 3<br />

min at 130°C<br />

Stage 2 Open width washing :<br />

0.5 g/l Imerol PC liq<br />

open width wash at 40°C<br />

rinse<br />

dry<br />

Stage 3 Top finish<br />

0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 %<br />

30-40 g/l Solusoft MW liq c<br />

30 g/l Ceralube PHD liq c<br />

0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra<br />

0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c<br />

pad at room temperature, pickup 60-80 %<br />

dry at 130°C<br />

sanforize if necessary<br />

Moisture - curing<br />

Complex State of the Art finish with a technically demanding<br />

background<br />

For woven goods of 100% cotton<br />

Three stage process<br />

Guide recipe for 100% Co woven fabric<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Stage 1 Resin finish<br />

150-200 g/l Arkofix NDL liq c<br />

20-30 g/l Velustrol ASP liq<br />

5 g/l Hydroperm HV liq<br />

110 g/l Catalyst MC1 liq<br />

pad at room temperature<br />

pickup 70-80 %<br />

dry at 90-100°C to 7-9 % residual humidity<br />

roll and batch at room temperature for 20-22 h<br />

Stage 2 Open width washing, drying<br />

2 g/l soda ash<br />

neutralize at 60°C<br />

rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid<br />

rinse, dry<br />

Stage 3 Top finish<br />

10-25 g/l Solusoft MW liq<br />

15-20 g/l Solusoft UP liq<br />

20 g/l Velustrol ASP liq<br />

10-20 g/l Dicofix SW liq c<br />

(if necessary)<br />

0.5 ml/l acetic acid 60 %<br />

0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c<br />

pad at room temperature, pickup 70-80 %<br />

dry at 120-140°C<br />

sanforize, calander if necessary<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> priority products<br />

Solusoft SE1 liq NANO - emulsion<br />

special modified siloxaneweakly<br />

cationic, no yellowing<br />

Solusoft MW liq + liq c Micro – emulsionAminomodified silicone<br />

elastomer nonionic<br />

Solusoft UP liq + liq h.c Macro – emulsion modified silicone<br />

elastomer nonionic<br />

Hydroperm RPU liq Hydrophilic multipurpose polyurethane,<br />

ideal for moisture management finish,<br />

additive for resin finish, nonionic


Garment Finish<br />

Enzymatic and Softening<br />

Treatment<br />

Enzymatic treatment :<br />

Bactosol CA liq c 1 %<br />

Sirrix 2 UD pH 4.5<br />

Liquor ratio 10 : 1<br />

50 - 70 min. at 60°C<br />

rinse warm and cold<br />

Softening by Exhaust :<br />

Ceranine HCS liq 2 - 5%<br />

or<br />

Leomin AFK liq 2 - 5%<br />

Solusoft MSJ liq 2.5 %<br />

Ceralube OEW liq 2.5 %<br />

or<br />

Ceraperm JET liq 1 - 4 %<br />

or<br />

Solusoft HIS liq 1- 4%<br />

Liquor ratio 10 : 1<br />

20 min at 30 - 40 °C, pH 5<br />

Hydroextract, Tumble dry<br />

Economical Garment softening<br />

Ceranine HCS liq<br />

Cationic softener for a smooth,<br />

soft handle for all types of washed<br />

apparel.<br />

Leomin AFK liq<br />

Cationic softener and ozone<br />

protector for washed denim jeans<br />

Ceralube OEW liq<br />

Weakly cationic silicone<br />

compound containing a special<br />

fatty acid softener and a lubricant<br />

with a very soft, fl owing handle.<br />

Super-Soft Finish<br />

Process : Garment - Dip<br />

Recipe :<br />

Solusoft UP liq 70 g/l 4.2 % owf<br />

Solusoft MW liq c 30 g/l 1.8 % owf<br />

Hydroperm RPU liq 30 g/l 1.8 % owf<br />

Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30°C<br />

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60%<br />

Tumble dry at 90-100°C to a residual moisture of 8-9%<br />

Ironing and pressing of the desired shape<br />

Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150°C<br />

Hydrophilic Finish/Moisture<br />

Management<br />

Process : Garment - Dip for PA and cotton<br />

Recipe :<br />

Solusoft TOW liq c 30 g/l 1.2 % owf<br />

Hydroperm RPU liq 30 g/l 1.8 % owf<br />

Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30°C<br />

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60%<br />

Tumble dry at 90-100°C to a residual moisture of 8-9%<br />

Ironing and pressing of the desired shape<br />

Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150°C<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 7


8<br />

textile<br />

Physical Performance of Resin<br />

treated Goods:<br />

Advantages and drawbacks of resin finish<br />

+ Durable press rating/Smoothness appearance<br />

+ Low creasing<br />

+ High CRA<br />

+ Easy to iron / non iron<br />

+ Dimension stability<br />

– Loss in tensile strength<br />

– Loss in tear strength<br />

– Abrasion resistance<br />

– Formaldehyde content<br />

Garment High-end Resin finish<br />

Sequence for Garment Resin<br />

finish<br />

1<br />

4<br />

made into<br />

garments<br />

iron and press<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

2<br />

dye dip finish with<br />

resin + softner<br />

followed by<br />

hydroextraction<br />

and tumble<br />

5<br />

drying<br />

cure<br />

1. Impregnating the made up garments with a<br />

resin fi nishing formulation by dipping or by<br />

spray application<br />

2. Hydroextraction (usually not necessary in<br />

case of spray application)<br />

3. Tumble drying<br />

4. Ironing<br />

5. Pressing<br />

6. Curing in a special curing oven<br />

3<br />

Required Machinery Park for<br />

Garment dip<br />

?<br />

?<br />

?<br />

?<br />

1. Rotary washing machine or garment<br />

dyeing machine* (eventually<br />

equipped with spray system)<br />

2. Centrifuge<br />

3. Tumble drying<br />

4. Garment pressing equipment<br />

5. Special curing oven<br />

(min temp. 150°C)<br />

? ?<br />

?<br />

*= Ideally fi tted with a pumping device to pump<br />

back spent fi nishing liquor into the stock<br />

chemical holding tank<br />

Prefinish for easy making up<br />

Garments<br />

Ceralube SVN liq 10 - 40 g/l<br />

Solusoft MW liq c 5 - 25 g/l<br />

Hostapal MRN liq c 0.3 - 0.6 g/l<br />

pad, dry 120 -140°C<br />

followed by sanforising or compacting treatment (important<br />

to avoid shrinkage or puckering during further processes of<br />

the textile)<br />

Notice:<br />

If a fluorocarbon finish (Water-/Oil repellent, Soil Release) is<br />

applied after the garment making we recommend the following<br />

recipe for the prefinish:


Basic Formulation for<br />

“Wrinkle-Free” finish<br />

Arkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 % owf<br />

Catalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 % owf<br />

Ceralube SVN liq 4 % owf<br />

Solusoft MW liq c 2 % owf<br />

Solusoft UP liq hc 1.5 % owf<br />

Hydroperm RPU liq 2 % owf<br />

pH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid<br />

Basic formulation for Resin finish<br />

+ Water and Oil - Repellency<br />

Arkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 %<br />

Catalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 %<br />

Ceraperm SFC liq 2 %<br />

or Ceralube PHD liq c 1-2 %<br />

Nuva TTC liq 4 - 6 %<br />

pH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid<br />

Dip for about 20 minutes at 30°C<br />

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60%<br />

Tumble dry at 90 - 100°C to a residual moisture of<br />

10-12%<br />

Ironing and pressing of the desired shape<br />

Curing in a curing oven, 6-8 minutes at 150°C<br />

textile<br />

Basic Formulation for Resin finish<br />

+ Soil Release finish<br />

Arkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 %<br />

Catalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 %<br />

Ceraperm SFC liq 2 %<br />

or Ceralube JW liq 2 %<br />

Nuva SRCN liq 6 - 8 %<br />

pH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid<br />

Dip for about 20 minutes at 30°C<br />

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60%<br />

Tumble dry at 90 - 100°C to a residual moisture of<br />

10-12%<br />

Ironing and pressing of the desired shape<br />

Curing in a curing-oven, 6-8 minutes at 150°C<br />

Calculation in g/l<br />

Example : Arkofix NDF liq c = 5 % owf<br />

PA = chemical amount which should be onto<br />

the fabric<br />

LA = liquor pick up after fi nishing and centrifuging<br />

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60 %<br />

g/l = 1000 x PA = 1000 x 5 = 83<br />

LA 60%<br />

g/l = 83<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Silicone Products<br />

Solusoft SE1 liq NANO - emulsion<br />

special modified siloxane weakly cationic,<br />

no yellowing<br />

Solusoft MW liq + liq c Micro – emulsion Amino modified silicone<br />

elastomer nonionic<br />

Solusoft UP liq + liq h.c Macro – emulsion<br />

modified silicone elastomer<br />

nonionic<br />

Solusoft WA liq Semi-macro – emulsion<br />

Aminomodified elastomer cationic<br />

colour l chronicle h i l 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 9


10<br />

q&a<br />

Mr. Basu<br />

President<br />

M/s Nahar Industrial<br />

Enterprises<br />

– March 9, 1957<br />

– Schooling:<br />

Bankura Zilla School,<br />

West Bengal.<br />

– Professional course:<br />

B. Text Colcutta<br />

University, 1978.<br />

– Total career:<br />

31 years<br />

– Worked with:<br />

Banwar Mills, Kohinoor<br />

Bombay, Indian Rayon,<br />

Pasupati, Modern<br />

Terry Towel, Arvind<br />

Mills, Opex Group-<br />

Bangladesh,<br />

Auro Textile and<br />

currently Nahar Fabric.<br />

– Current designation:<br />

President.<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Textile – an essential,<br />

rich heritage<br />

1. Do you think the Textile industry today is facing<br />

a Global Recession?<br />

Yes, Textile Industry is facing today a Global<br />

Recession due to the economic conditions ofAmerica<br />

and Europe.<br />

2. How do you assess the threat from China?<br />

I don’t consider China as a threat any more due<br />

to lack of quality in their product and changed<br />

government policies.<br />

3. What innovations do you plan with reference<br />

to branding, retailing new products and new<br />

fi nishes?<br />

Regarding Branding we are already having our<br />

established brands viz. Monte Carlo, Cotton County,<br />

French Republic and Tazo and our Retail Business<br />

is already in place. We are trying to strenghten our<br />

Brands and Retails Business by creating Brand<br />

Loyalty through quality at reasonable price.<br />

Regarding new products we are focusing more on<br />

Elasten Fibre and increasing our capacity of Elasten<br />

Fibre yarn as use of Elasten Fibre is increasing. We<br />

are trying to increase our presence in workwear<br />

segment. Dobby Design is the strength of Nahar<br />

Group. We are trying to exploit our strength.<br />

Regarding new fi nishes we are doing different type<br />

of performance fi nishes too for brands.<br />

4. How do you envisage the growth of brands and<br />

its impact on textile business?<br />

It will improve the quality standard.<br />

5. What are your plans to expand your International<br />

Textiles and Retail business?<br />

In Nahar we are doing lot of work for Direct Export<br />

and Export through RMG sector. Keeping this<br />

segment in view we expanded in 2006. Now we are<br />

waiting for International Textile Market to Improve.<br />

At right time we will think about expansion.<br />

6. How do you see the role of dyes and chemical<br />

manufacturing companies (<strong>Clariant</strong>) in future to<br />

help the textile industry?<br />

In the present scenario of Textile Market the role<br />

of Dyes Chemical Manufacturing Companies like<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> has become very crucial and cirtical. On the<br />

one hand the performance requirement is being more<br />

stringent and on the other hand price of the fi nished<br />

fabric is not increasing. In manufacturing cost dyes<br />

and chemicals is the second largest constituent i.e.<br />

13-15% of the total manufacturing cost. So in this<br />

context all the dyes and chemicals manufacturers<br />

will have to be very innovative, quality conscious,<br />

cost competitive and service oriented to help the<br />

Textile Industry as well as for themselves.<br />

7. Your message to textile industry<br />

Textile is one of the basic needs of human being and<br />

India is having a rich heritage in Textile. Sooner or<br />

later we would come out of the present recession.<br />

We would have to punch in a little creativity along<br />

with cost effectiveness to be the world leader.


Surface sizing additives<br />

Cartacol® 6411 liquid and Cartacol® SA liquid<br />

The Cartacol range<br />

Surface sizing additives<br />

Benefi ts:<br />

– Reduce water, moisture and water-based ink<br />

penetration<br />

– Improve inkjet printability<br />

– Better cost/effi ciency ratio<br />

Applications:<br />

– Multipurpose<br />

– Packaging: boxboard, containerboard, corrugated<br />

board, kraftliner, testliner, coated board<br />

Cartacol SA liquid<br />

Surface sizing emulsion polymer - mainly Styrene/<br />

Acrylate type, 25 % AC<br />

Nano-polymer particles<br />

Excellent electrolyte, shear and thermal stability<br />

Used on uncoated paper, in size-press colors together with<br />

starch and OBA<br />

Designed for optimizing the inkjet printability of<br />

multipurpose printing paper (offi ce paper), with positive<br />

effects on the toner adhesion<br />

Cartacol 6411 liquid<br />

Surface sizing emulsion polymer - mainly Styrene/<br />

Acrylate type,<br />

High solid content, 35 % AC<br />

Excellent electrolyte, shear and thermal stability<br />

Used on uncoated board to enhance the water hold out<br />

(low penetration in the base paper)<br />

Good printability of multipurpose printing paper<br />

Difference between coated and<br />

uncoated paper<br />

Uncoated office paper<br />

Matt coated paper<br />

paper<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 13


14<br />

paper<br />

Surface sizing mechanism Uncoated paper<br />

Surface treatment with a surface sizing agent<br />

Uncoated paper<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Office paper performance criteria<br />

Special emulsion polymers to improve the print performance<br />

by inkjet and digital printing<br />

Sizing: Cobb, HST, contact angle<br />

Inkjet print:<br />

Black/color density<br />

Image/text defi nition<br />

Wicking, feathering, 2 color bleeding<br />

Dot size/sharpness<br />

Digital: Photocopy/laser<br />

Toner adhesion<br />

Runnability (friction coeffi cient )<br />

Offset printability:<br />

Wet surface strength (SWAT, wet IGT ...)<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> inkjet printing test<br />

Black text definition <strong>Colour</strong> definition<br />

Sharpness<br />

HP895Cxi Rapport Inkjet printing test<br />

Black density <strong>Colour</strong> density, mottling<br />

Mottling<br />

<strong>Colour</strong> feathering<br />

Bleeding<br />

(2 colour mixing)<br />

Inkjet printing test<br />

NETTETE


Digital printing<br />

Toner adhesion and friction coefficient<br />

0.8<br />

0.7<br />

0.6<br />

0.5<br />

0.4<br />

0.3<br />

0.2<br />

B.<br />

Cartacol SA<br />

Surface sizing - Case history<br />

Office paper - Cartacol SA<br />

Paper Grade : 80g/m² P = 5T/h, v = 460m/min<br />

Size press : 6.5% starch<br />

Leucophor ® UKO; Cartacol SA = 2kg/T of final paper<br />

Dosing point of SSA : in working reservoir of 6.5%<br />

starch/ Leucophor UKO solution, Temperature = 42-44°C,<br />

pH = 7.2<br />

paper<br />

Results :<br />

Cobb (gH2O/m² ):<br />

– Uncured (AKD sizing) = 24 – 25g/m²;<br />

– Cured (5 minutes at 130°C) = 21 ±1g/m² -same<br />

results with both SSA<br />

Ink-jet printability (HP printer, standard ink-jet printing<br />

form): excellent<br />

Good toner adhesion<br />

Paper Grade : Offset paper 70 – 80g/m², 150m/min<br />

Pulp: Straw 30 – 50 / bleached fi ber 50 – 70%<br />

Wet end conditions : AKD internal sizing 15kg/T<br />

Surface treatment<br />

– Tapioca or corn oxidized starch 6 – 10%, pH 7.5<br />

– CARTACOL SA 3-6kg/T<br />

– Temperature 35°C<br />

– Coat weight 2.5g/m², Pond size press<br />

Advantages<br />

– Same Dry surface strength (using IGT) than competitor<br />

speed = 2,50 / 2,95m/s Top/ Bottom side<br />

– Same Cobb 60s = 32/33g/m²<br />

Cartacol 6411<br />

Office paper<br />

Started with the same dosage as competition but later on<br />

decreased to 20% less<br />

Paper – 80g/m²<br />

AKD in wet-end<br />

Size press formulation : 7% conc starch + SSA<br />

Competitor added constantly per dosing pump 2.5 kg as is/<br />

T final Cobb values of 22gH2O/m²<br />

Cartacol 6411 addition was reduced to 2.0 ks as is/<br />

T final paper<br />

No changes regarding Cobb and inkjet printability was<br />

detected<br />

www.paper.clariant.com<br />

This information is based on our present state of knowledge and is<br />

intended to provide general notes on our products and their uses.<br />

It should not therefore be construed as guaranteeing specific<br />

properties of the products described or their suitability for a<br />

particular application. Any existing industrial property rights must<br />

be observed. The quality of our products is guaranteed under our<br />

General Conditions of Sale. ® Trademark of <strong>Clariant</strong> registered in<br />

numerous countries. © 2008 <strong>Clariant</strong> International Ltd.<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 15


Bactosol BP liq. c<br />

A specific cellulase enzyme for Biowash treatments.<br />

Improves signifi cantly soft feel of the garment.<br />

Removes fuzziness on surface of the fabric during<br />

production<br />

Less colour fading after multiple laundering<br />

Rapid Kinetic behavior reduces the treatment time of the<br />

biowash. Therefore energy cosumption cost are saved and<br />

productivity increases.<br />

Specifi c action on surface of the fi ber, low impact on fi ber<br />

strength compared to traditional cellulases.<br />

Afilan GD liq.<br />

Lubricant with antistatic properties for fiber<br />

manufacturing and fiber processing.<br />

Afi lan GD Liq. has got excellent lubricating and wetting<br />

properties ,improves fi bre/fi bre cohesion and reduces<br />

fi bre /metal friction.<br />

Owing to the high degree of dynamic smoothness and<br />

good fi bre- to- fi bre cohesion Afi lan GD liq. is suitable<br />

as lubricant for fi bre manufacture and fi bre processing<br />

in the fi eld of PAN as well as PET and all other fi bre<br />

catagories.<br />

Can be applied from aqueous solutions either alone or in<br />

combination with other nonionic or anionic fi bre fi nishes<br />

in the fi bre manufacturing and textile mills,mainly as<br />

spinning lubricant.<br />

Drimaren Red HF-B<br />

New High Concentrated Bright Red for Exhaust and<br />

Continuous application for Medium to dark shades.<br />

Concentrated dye with attractive Bright Red shade.<br />

Possible to match Bright Red,<br />

new arrivals title<br />

scarlet and Blood Red shades.<br />

Suitable for exhaust and continuous application process.<br />

Good compatibility within Drimaren HF/CL range.<br />

Has Good Light fastness in Medium and Dark shades.<br />

Good Wet Light and Wet alkali light (M&S C9A)<br />

fastness.<br />

High fi xation and Good washing-off properties.<br />

Good Acid and Alkaline perspiration fastness.<br />

Indosol Black NF p 1200<br />

Metal free direct dye for dyeing cellulosic fibers.<br />

Product Performance<br />

Direct black with good build up. One bath dyeing of PES/<br />

CEL under HT conditions must be dyed at pH 9 -10<br />

Good coverage of dead cotton<br />

HT Suitability 130°C at pH 5 : Not suitable<br />

No infl uence of iron contamination in dyebath on the<br />

shade<br />

Shade in artifi cial Light : Yellower<br />

Leveling power for Co/CV : CV dyed much deeper<br />

Stability to hard water (17°d) : Stable<br />

Drimaren PS<br />

After several years of having either locally sourced for<br />

non competitive products we are happy to offer you now<br />

a new global range of own products for reactive printing.<br />

To clearly separate them from former products we call<br />

them DRIMAREN PS dyes.<br />

These are 12 monochloro triazine dyes.<br />

The main targets behind those developments have been:<br />

– granulated form to be superior to most of<br />

competitors’ dusting powders<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 17


18<br />

new arrivals<br />

– economical products<br />

– high solubility to enable working even without predissolving<br />

– low salt content for less negative infl uence on<br />

synthetic thickener and better washing- off properties<br />

(less staining).<br />

Printofix Orange R-R Eco<br />

Orange with Banned Amine Free.<br />

Suitable for DCB-free : Black/Orange Combination Print<br />

Can be promoted as unique product in<br />

Corporate and EOU.<br />

Suitable for Babywear.<br />

Very High Light Fastness.<br />

Good Perspiration and Chlorine fast.<br />

Printofix Red R-G Eco<br />

Eco-friendly Red Pigment Dispersion<br />

Product Performance<br />

“Banned amine free”, red dispersion for pigment<br />

printing.<br />

Good light, dry clean and wash fastness.<br />

Very little infl uence on viscosity of synthetic thickener.<br />

Suitable for all types of printing applications i.e., aqueous,<br />

semi-aqueous and solvent based.<br />

Does not contribute in gelling of printing paste.<br />

Printofix Binder ITL<br />

GOTS Approved, Formaldehyde Free Binder for Aqueous<br />

Printing<br />

Printofi x Binder ITL has been specially developed for<br />

Pigment Printing by the aqueous system, in combination<br />

with Printofi x Thickener CA / CSN / ECS<br />

Printofi x Binder ITL gives prints with good colour value,<br />

sharpness, brightness and softness.<br />

It is suitable for printing on cotton (both woven and knit<br />

fabrics), viscose, polyester and their blends. Printed goods<br />

have high all round fastness properties.<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Printofix ® Binder 83.IN liq.<br />

Binder for pigment printing on cellulosic and synthetic<br />

fabrics and blends, e.g. on polyester/cellulosic fabrics.<br />

high all-round fastness properties<br />

provides pleasant soft handle<br />

good resistance to mechanical strain<br />

excellent running properties on printing machines<br />

good stability to light ageing<br />

Excellent Washing Fastness<br />

Printofix ® Binder T20-20 liq.<br />

Very Soft Binder for pigment printing on cellulosic and<br />

synthetic fabrics and blends.<br />

provides very good soft handle<br />

good all-round fastness properties<br />

good resistance to mechanical strain<br />

excellent running properties on printing machines<br />

Esp. recommended for printing of knits<br />

Printofix Softener SFT liq.<br />

A special silicone macro emulsion for Pigment Printing<br />

Very good softness along with best rubbing fastness level<br />

on pigment printed textiles.<br />

Elegant surface smoothness<br />

Especially recommended for pigment printing on knitwear<br />

Provides better elasticity to the prints<br />

Improves fastness to dry rubbing of pigment prints<br />

Shows no negative infl uence on wet rubbing fastness<br />

Compatible to all products of the Printofi x range<br />

No negative infl uence on viscosity of the print paste<br />

Shows very good permanency<br />

Drimagen AB liq.<br />

A liquid alkali system for Reactive dyeing<br />

Controls the fi xation of reactive dyes in an uniform way.<br />

Permits improvement of dyeing reproducibility.


Compared to conventional alkalies like soda-ash,Drimagen<br />

AB has the following advantages -<br />

1. Easy handling and dissolution.<br />

2. Better security and reproducibility of dyeings.<br />

Exceptional pH stability in use.<br />

Leonil EHC liq.<br />

Anionic, non-foaming wetting agent for continuous<br />

dyeing of cellulosic fibres and their blends with<br />

synthetic fibres<br />

has excellent wetting properties and facilitates penetration<br />

of diffi cult to penetrate cellulosic grey goods<br />

can be applied in all neutral, acid and alkaline dyeliquors<br />

in exhaust and continuous processes<br />

has no retarding effect on reactive, vat, sulphur or direct<br />

dyes and does not impair their solubility<br />

prevents vat skinning and smears when dyeing with vat<br />

and sulphur dyes<br />

is low-foaming under all pH conditions<br />

is silicone-free<br />

Opticid HAI liq.<br />

Acid buffer and dispersant for dyeing of polyester and<br />

polyester/cellulosic blends.<br />

Maintains a constant pH during the dyeing process.<br />

Often replaces the dispersant.<br />

Does not foam.<br />

Is easy to handle in the liquid commercial form.<br />

Is phosphate-free.<br />

Lyogen DP c<br />

Excellent leveling agent for Polyester Dyeing due to its<br />

inbuilt properties of Leveling, Migration and Dispersion<br />

with ability to cover barriness in uneven texturised PES.<br />

Product Performance<br />

Leveling properties based on dual action, migration and<br />

retardation.<br />

Good dispersion properties.<br />

Non – foaming.<br />

new arrivals<br />

Highly concentrated. Dosage required is 25% lower than<br />

most of the available leveling agents.<br />

No effect on sensitive dyes and shades especially green,<br />

turquoise.<br />

Product can also be used effectively for Stripping and<br />

Shade Correction.<br />

Also effective for dyeing of PES in blends.<br />

APEO / NPEO free. OkeoTex compliance.<br />

Minimal wool fi ber damage dyeing in the iso-electric<br />

region – pH 4.5.<br />

Very high fastness on wool to ‘in house’ processing.<br />

Metal Free.<br />

Ceralube ET.IN liq.<br />

Cost Effective Yarn Lubricant<br />

Ceralube ET.IN liq is the blend of micro fi ne waxes to achieve<br />

minimal yarn to metal and yarn to yarn coeffi cient of friction.<br />

It enhances runability of yarn and minimizes breakages in<br />

post winding.<br />

It is a cost effective product in its category to be used for<br />

reducing coeffi cient of friction. It is suitable for all fi bres.<br />

Product Performance<br />

Excellent lubricity for post winding operations.<br />

Minimizes Coeffi cient of Friction in yarn to yarn and yarn<br />

to metal.<br />

Glossy and waxy fi nishes can be achieved by padding<br />

application on cotton fabrics, with improvement in<br />

sewability properties.<br />

Trefix SW pa<br />

The new sizing softener for Cotton, P/C, P/V and 100%<br />

Polyester and viscose spun yarn.<br />

Product Performance<br />

Easy splitting of yarn in split zone and imparts pliability<br />

to yarn to overcome abrasion in weaving.<br />

Good lubrication property lowers yarn friction on loom.<br />

Reduces shedding during weaving by reducing Fibre to<br />

Fibre and Fibre to Metal friction.<br />

Compatible with all sizing ingredients.<br />

Can be added in cooker.<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 19


20<br />

inside views<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Global Shoe Concept:<br />

Global information – local interpretation<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Impressions from Brazil<br />

Under the motto “Always one shoe step ahead”<br />

- <strong>Clariant</strong>’s Leather Business has successfully<br />

continued to advance its international shoe approach<br />

by holding three global development workshops<br />

in the main shoe centres of Asia and Americas. In<br />

line with the launch of its Global Shoe Concept,<br />

the company continues to address the shoe upper<br />

market with a strong focus on trend, innovation,<br />

performance and ecology. The objective of these<br />

local workshops was to generate innovative<br />

and fashionable ideas to cater for customers’<br />

needs in the respective regions and countries.<br />

Workshop in Asia and Americas:<br />

The workshops took place in Chennai/India,<br />

Guangzhou/China and Novo Hamburgo/Brazil.<br />

Local teams with the support by the project<br />

leader Ralph Schneider from Germany as well<br />

as international technicians responsible for the<br />

respective countries spent one week together<br />

recently to exchange experiences, strengthen<br />

teambuilding and establish the strategy to offer our<br />

customers the most updated and complete solution<br />

and application.<br />

The leathers made show a wide variety of shoe<br />

uppers from burnishable goat to high performance<br />

bovine box and oily types.<br />

‘Specifi cally, the shoe segment will be the focus<br />

for our future growth. The results of our workshops<br />

clearly demonstrate our leading position in this<br />

area of innovative leather chemicals, based on<br />

our commitment to provide real solutions for our<br />

special customer requirements. <strong>Clariant</strong> provides<br />

application know-how, based on an updated product<br />

portfolio for all segments of our industry’, states<br />

Hubert Kollmar, Head of Leather Business for Latin<br />

America.<br />

All workshops clearly show that the possibilities<br />

are unlimited and can be exchanged between the<br />

countries and regions when taking local requirements<br />

like raw material into account. In the current<br />

economic climate, it’s absolutely necessary that<br />

tanners can easily generate new ideas and discover<br />

new areas of business with new stylish effects and<br />

safe and environmentally-friendly processing.<br />

Key elements of <strong>Clariant</strong>’s global shoe concept:<br />

International cross-functional teams<br />

Considering local and global requirements (e.g.<br />

use of local raw material)<br />

Using a core range of products/systems for shoe<br />

(globally and locally manufactured)<br />

Use of environmentally-friendly technologies<br />

Seasonal fashion approach around 18 to 24<br />

months before the fashion seasons<br />

Continuous approach with the latest trends from<br />

the main fashion areas in Europe<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> has resources, products and systems,<br />

covering the full range of shoe technologies, and<br />

dedicated techno-commercial expertise and market<br />

intelligence.<br />

Sense the difference and feel the fashion - for<br />

more information please consult your local <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

representative and make use of <strong>Clariant</strong>’s support.<br />

Impressions from China<br />

Impressions from India


Society of Dyes and <strong>Colour</strong>ists<br />

Society of Dyers and <strong>Colour</strong>ists,<br />

India organized the fi rst ever Global<br />

Conference in Goa on June 25–26, <strong>2009</strong>.<br />

The Theme for the workshop was Sustainability<br />

in <strong>Colour</strong>ation: Vision 2020.<br />

Sustainabiltiy as a part of the theme suggested<br />

that we have to look at sustaining the universe and<br />

most importantly ourselves and our Businesses.<br />

Vision 2020 implies that colouration industry<br />

would go ahead with a view which would be smart<br />

and sharp.<br />

Mr. A.K. Prasad received Fellowship of The<br />

Society of Dyers and Colorists [C Col, FSDC]<br />

which was handed over to him by Dr. Mike Bartle,<br />

Chairman of SDC, UK.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Ltd. also had put up a<br />

promotional counter where we interacted with many<br />

of customers and designers from India and elsewhere.<br />

It was pleasure to know that many customers showed<br />

keen interest in colour chronicle.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> was also represented by Ms. Beate and<br />

Mr. Kieth and Mr. Sebastian from Santitized AG.<br />

Ms. Beate gave a brief profi le and contribution<br />

made by <strong>Clariant</strong> globally on colouration, fashion<br />

trends and novelty effects by speciality fi nishes.<br />

This forum was also successfully utilized for<br />

informal discussions with different customers and<br />

we enlightened them on the latest from <strong>Clariant</strong> for<br />

value addition.<br />

Grand fi nal of SDC’s Global Design Competition<br />

was also hosted by SDCEC during the course of<br />

these two days where fashion designing students<br />

from various countries participated. We were the<br />

sponsors of the Awards function dinner of this<br />

Global design competition.<br />

More than 200 delegates participated in this<br />

event. This was well represented by suppliers,<br />

manufactures, brand representatives, professors,<br />

and students. Presentations were also made by other<br />

allied service providers in the fi eld of textiles.<br />

At the end SDC thanked all the lead sponsors<br />

of the conference, speakers and students who had<br />

come from all the parts of the world.<br />

Dr. Mike Bartle presenting fellowship certificate to Mr. A. K. Prasad.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Team with the winners of Global Design Competition.<br />

inside views<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong> 21


22<br />

gleanings from press<br />

Climate neutral T-shirts<br />

from Switcher<br />

Since January <strong>2009</strong>, the Swiss textile<br />

company Switcher has been co-operating<br />

with myclimate in climate protection. All<br />

emissions of its collection “CO2 neutral”<br />

as well as print emissions of its catalogues<br />

are offset in a project promoting effi cient<br />

biomass stoves and briquetting in<br />

Uttarakhand, India.<br />

Switcher has<br />

as its vision<br />

“to become the fi rst Swiss textile group,<br />

with strong performance and profi tability,<br />

to adopt the principle of sustainable<br />

development on a worldwide basis”.<br />

Myclimate is a Swiss foundation<br />

that is making a signifi cant and innovate<br />

contribution to climate protection and<br />

sustainable development. Myclimate is<br />

well-connected globally and is a leading<br />

quality provider of climate education and<br />

Carbon Management Services. Myclimate<br />

is also a renowned partner for carbon<br />

offsetting solutions via effective carbon<br />

offset projects.<br />

In 1981, when he was still a student<br />

at the University of Lausanne, Robin<br />

Comelius fi rst launched the idea that was<br />

to become the Switcher trademark. For<br />

him, the sweatshirts of the “yuppy” era<br />

were too monotonous “rugby stripes and<br />

symbols of American colleges” and he<br />

dreamed of comfortable and colourful polo<br />

shirts, in solid colours, and above all, with<br />

no slogans. When it was launched, the fi rst<br />

collection included only two models: A<br />

T-shirt and a sweatshirt.<br />

Tactical Response<br />

Combat Shirt featuring<br />

CORDURA Baselayer<br />

fabric<br />

Invista’s Cordura brand team has<br />

announced the launch of Atlanco’s new<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

Tru-Spec brand Tactical Response Combat<br />

Shirt featuring Cordura Baselayer fabric.<br />

The Tactical Response Combat Shirt is<br />

the latest addition to the Tru-Spec brand’s<br />

Tactical Response Uniform (TRU) line for<br />

tactical operations.<br />

“We are excited to work with the Tru-<br />

Spec brand product development team<br />

on this new combat shirt for military,<br />

tactical, and law enforcement end-users,”<br />

said Cindy McNaull, Global Cordura<br />

brand Manager. “In addition to servicing<br />

today’s war fi ghters, this collaboration will<br />

expand the use of Cordura Baselayer fabric<br />

beyond military applications and will<br />

affordably equip hometown heroes with<br />

the latest proctective garment technology.<br />

The comfortable, breathable Cordura<br />

Baselayer fabric will be a valuable asset to<br />

those wearing the new Tactical Response<br />

Combat Shirt.”<br />

Designed to be worn under protective<br />

vests, the Tactical Response Combat Shirt<br />

is a next-to-skin garment constructed with<br />

No Melt/No Drip Cordura Baselayer fabric,<br />

the secret to the shirt’s protective qualities.<br />

The 60/40 cotton-nylon fi bre blends reduces<br />

these verity of burn injuries by chaming<br />

instead of melting when exposed to heat.<br />

Known for its durability and abrasionresistant<br />

characteristics, Cordura Baselayer<br />

fabric provides a comfortable, breathable,<br />

lightweight solution with exceptional<br />

moisture management properties.<br />

“Cordura Baselayer fabric was the<br />

obvious choice for us during the TRU<br />

combat shirt design process,”said Atlanco’s<br />

Vice President of Marketing. Darrell<br />

Jacks. “The fabric’s proven performance<br />

military protective gear further motivated<br />

our support of the brand’s technology. By<br />

ustilising Cordura Baselayer fabric in the<br />

TRU Combat Shirt, the Tru-Spec brand<br />

tear maintains its commitment to making<br />

affordable cutting-edge textile technologies<br />

available to individual operators, as well as<br />

teams and units.”<br />

Atlanco’s Tru-Spec brand launched<br />

its dynamic, full featured Tactical<br />

Response Uniform in 2006 to address<br />

the special needs of tactical offi cers.<br />

Since the uniform’s introduction, the<br />

TRU line has become leading choice of<br />

tactical teams everywhere. I addition to<br />

exceptional comfort and enhanced safet<br />

the Tactical Response Combat Shirt<br />

features a modturtleneck designed for<br />

style and comfort, gussete sleeves for<br />

easy movement, convenient zippere sleeve<br />

storage.<br />

The Tru-Spec brand Combat shirt’s<br />

fully function sleeves, based on the<br />

original TRU design, are made from<br />

Cordura NYCO fabric. Available in two<br />

high performance fabric options, the<br />

Tactical Response Combat Shirt features<br />

MultiCam sleeves with a sar colour body<br />

and a separate army digital version with<br />

a foliage colour body that incorporates<br />

50/50 nylon cotton No Melt, No Drip ripstop<br />

sleeves in the AC pattern. The solid<br />

colour options _ Black, Olive Dra and<br />

Khaki _ are available in 65/35 polyestercotton<br />

rip-stop sleeves but do not provide<br />

thermal protection qualities.<br />

Textiles to barely<br />

manage last year’s<br />

figures<br />

Mr. JN Singh, Joint secretary, Ministry of<br />

Textiles<br />

As the fi scal draws to an end, textile experts<br />

are confi rming the worst fears of the Indian<br />

textile and clothing sector. The sector that<br />

commanded a market share $51 billion in<br />

2007-08 might just stop short of $50 billion<br />

in 2008-09, thanks to a stagnating demand<br />

from domestic and global consumers.<br />

Joint Secretary at the Ministry of<br />

textiles J.N. Singh said recently that India<br />

would just manage to hold on to $50 billion<br />

market size in 2008-09. “There could be<br />

a small 2-2.5% correction by the time we<br />

have the statistics with us towards fi scal<br />

end. In times of economic meltdown, it is<br />

fortunate that we will be able to maintain


the market size for a consecutive year,” he<br />

said.<br />

India that $21 billion exports of textile<br />

and clothing in 2007-08 had a domestic<br />

market size of $29-30 billion during the<br />

period. In the current fi scal however,<br />

there has been a degrowth in the US and<br />

the EU markets for Indian exporters and<br />

a simultaneous stagnation in the domestic<br />

market. “Contrary to our expections of<br />

15% growth in exports, our exports are<br />

feared to fall by 3% in 2008-09 owing to<br />

a drastic fall in demand from the US and<br />

the EU markets. Even in the domestic<br />

market, against the growth of 10%, we<br />

expect to see a mere 2-3% growth in the<br />

current fi scal owing to lack of consumer<br />

confi dence in the current economic crisis,”<br />

added Prashant Agarwal of Technopak.<br />

Confederation of Indian Textile<br />

Industry’s Secretary General DK Nair<br />

indicated that considering these are tough<br />

times for the textile sector, it should<br />

consider it fortunate to have managed a fl at<br />

growth. “It is fortunate that we have been<br />

able to hold on to our market size without<br />

seeing any signifi cant dip in these times,”<br />

he said.<br />

Apparel retailers move<br />

into small towns for<br />

growth<br />

Apparel, retailers are poised to chase<br />

consumers in small towns, besides lower<br />

operating expenses, while aiming for a<br />

balanced presence across markets in a<br />

challenging economy.<br />

Exploring the relatively unexplored<br />

markets are S Kumars’ Nationwide, Alok<br />

Industries and Welspun India’s Welspun<br />

Feedback ?<br />

Send your suggestions/entries to<br />

gauri.nadkarni@clariant.com<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

www.clariant.in<br />

Printed and Published by<br />

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

Design by Point-n-Pixel<br />

Printed by Multiple Images<br />

Retail.<br />

“The rationale is in fact the Tier 2, 3<br />

and 4 cities, the amount of money that is<br />

available there and the amount of consumer<br />

growth happening there, there is a big shift<br />

happening for the consumer, especially<br />

in garments,” Nitin Kasliwal, managing<br />

director of S Kumars, said.<br />

S. Kumars, known for premium brands<br />

such as Reid and Taylor and Belmonte,<br />

is launching a ‘mass brand’ for the Tier 3<br />

and 4 cities at “very reasonable rate,” said<br />

Kasliwal.<br />

Rival Arvind, which already has about<br />

30 per cent of its revenue coming from<br />

Tier 2-3 cities, plants to locate a signifi cant<br />

share of 30 outlets to be added this year in<br />

Tier 3 cities, said J Suresh, chief executive,<br />

brand and retail.<br />

Branded apparels and home furnishing<br />

maker Alok, owner of the H&A brand, is<br />

planning to triple it store count by next<br />

March, with a strong focus on the Tier 2<br />

and 3 cities.<br />

GAP to expand<br />

sourcing of textiles<br />

from India<br />

US-based clothing and accessories retailer<br />

GAP Inc. plans to increase its sourcing<br />

requirements of textiles and clothing from<br />

India in the near future. The retails chain<br />

head quartered in San Francisco imports<br />

products worth a billion dollars annually<br />

from Indian manufacturers.<br />

In an open statement, Stan Raggio, Gap<br />

Inc’s senior vice president of international<br />

oursourcing, said, “We will continue to<br />

source from India. We work closely with<br />

many stakeholders and receive valuable<br />

and important help from the local NGO<br />

gleanings from press<br />

community that assists our ongoing effort<br />

to ensure that our ongoing efforts to ensure<br />

that our products are manufactured in a<br />

socially responsible way. Our efforts in<br />

this important area will continue”.<br />

Testing times ahead for<br />

India apparel exports<br />

to EU<br />

Indian textile and apparel manufacturers<br />

could face hurdles while exporting to the<br />

European Union (EU) in the coming year<br />

when a tough law on chemicals and their<br />

safe use come into force by December<br />

2011, experts here warn. This will upset<br />

the import and export strategies of many<br />

besides having a signifi cant impact on<br />

supply chain management, they said. By<br />

December 1, 2011, producers or exporters<br />

will have to notify the Eurupean Chemicals<br />

Agency (CHA) if their goods contain<br />

hazardous properties of a substance on<br />

the candidate list of a new law called<br />

Registration, Evaluation Authorisation<br />

and Restriction of Chemical Substances<br />

(REACH). This will include dyes and<br />

pigments. The idea is to improve protection<br />

of human health and the environment from<br />

the hazards of chemicals. Companies<br />

manufacturing or importing more than<br />

one tonne of a chemical substance a year<br />

will be required to register the chemical<br />

in a central database. The general aim of<br />

REACH is to replace these potentially<br />

hazardous substances with safer alternatives<br />

whenever possible.<br />

Editor: Prabhat Trivedi<br />

Nirmal Punjabi<br />

Editorial Co-ordinator: Gauri Nadkarni<br />

Consulting Editor: Philips Abraham<br />

Editorial Board: Sanjay Sathe,<br />

Pinakin Munshi,<br />

Rajinikanth Prasad<br />

colour chronicle 2 | <strong>2009</strong><br />

23

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