WT_2008_01: TEST: TAG HEUER AQUARACER

76 WatchTime February 2008
Advantages
+ Attractive design
+ Cleanly finished case
+ Secure bracelet with extension
Disadvantages
– Uses a simple version of the
movement, an ETA 7750
– Top-heavy when worn

Blue Style
BY JENS KOCH
PHOTOS BY IMAGINA
With the Aquaracer Caliber 16 Day-Date
TAG Heuer has launched a diving watch
that, with its blue dial and scale, conjures
up images of the deep.
Recently, TAG Heuer has been creating a buzz with some technically ambitious
and visually interesting watches. The Grand Carrera collection
(see the previous story) features the new Calibre RS (rotating system), a
development four years in the making. The Carrera Caliber 360, with a chronograph
accurate to 1/100 second, was finally released last year in a limited
edition after its introduction as a concept watch in 2005. Another concept
watch, the Monaco V4 with linear oscillating weight, pulley-drive transfer and
micro ball bearing instead of ruby bearings, is still not ready for series production.
However, despite the success of its concept watches and limited series,
TAG Heuer is still primarily a producer of mid-priced sports watches, and it is in
this area that it must continue to excite customers.
While the brand’s involvement with sports timekeeping dates all the way
back to its 1886 invention of the oscillating pinion, which simplified the
process of making chronographs, the design tradition of the TAG Heuer
Aquaracer goes back only to 1982 and the Series 2000 diving watch. Its design,
with a bezel with raised ribs for easier use, was echoed in 2003 with the
introduction of the original Aquagraph. This watch had a rubber sheath for
the chronograph push-piece, which made it the first chronograph that could
be operated underwater. Its bezel was also diver-friendly: it couldn’t be
knocked off position because the wearer had to press down on two separate
points to rotate it.
February 2008 WatchTime 77

TEST: TAG HEUER AQUARACER
The new Aquaracer, with its deep blue dial
and steel bracelet, is also perfect for diving but
still stylish enough to wear with a suit. The alternating
satin-finished and polished areas on
the case, bracelet and bezel give it a sporty yet
elegant appearance.
The bezel is divided into two parts, a blue
inner ring and a steel outer one. As with most
diving watches, the bezel turns only in one direction
and the blue bezel ring with the
elapsed-seconds scale remains stationary. Initially,
the stationary scale’s close proximity to
the hands is distracting, but you’ll soon get
used to it.
The bezel is easy to turn and is clearly
notched in half-minute steps. As with other
watches that use an ETA 7750 caliber, the
push-pieces require a bit of force to activate.
However, the large size of the push-pieces aids
in force distribution. The screwed crown is easy
to operate.
78 WatchTime February 2008
The movement has a stop-seconds function
for setting the time. The day of the week and
date can be quickly adjusted when the crown is
half pulled out. Despite the crown guard, the
crown is easy to unscrew and offers good grip.
The gaps between the case and the pushpieces
and bezel are quite small, which indicates
that care was taken in the production of
the case. The bezel, however, has not been
milled but simply stamped and the polished surfaces
are not absolutely smooth. The elaborate
engraving of a divers’ helmet on the caseback
— an appropriate icon for a watch water-resistant
to 300 meters — is very meticulously done.
Silver, Steel, and Stability
The steel bracelet and clasp are also impressive,
though they don’t quite match the quality of
the case. The bracelet’s links are connected by
pins, which are not as elegant as screws, and
The Aquaracer uses the ETA 7750 in
undecorated form.
DATA
TAG HEUER AQUARACER CALIBER 16
DAY-DATE
Manufacturer: TAG Heuer SA, Rue L.-J. Chevrolet
6a, CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
Reference number: CAF2012.BA0815
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, day
and date, chronograph with central seconds,
30-minute and 12-hour counters; rotating bezel
(outer ring only)
Movement: Caliber 16, based on ETA 7750, automatic;
28,800 vph, 25 jewels, Incabloc shock
protection, Etachron fine adjustment with index
springs and gilded nickel balance, Nivarox-2 spiral
spring, 46-hour power reserve,
diameter = 30.4 mm, height = 7.9 mm
Case: Stainless steel with sapphire glass coated
on both sides, screwed crown, fully threaded
back cover; water-resistant to 300 meters
Bracelet and clasp: Stainless steel with folding
stainless-steel safety clasp with two push-pieces
and integrated extension
Results of rate test:
(Deviations in seconds / 24 hours)
(without/with chronograph switched on)
Dial up: +2 +3
Dial down: +7 +4
Crown up: +5 0
Crown down: +5 +1
Crown left: +6 0
Crown right: +6 +3
Greatest deviation of rate: 5 4
Mean deviation: +5.2 +2.5
Mean amplitude:
flat positions: 299° 289°
hanging positions: 279° 258°
Dimensions: Diameter = 43 mm,
height = 16 mm, weight = 210 g
Price: $2,895
The ribs on the bezel give it a distinctive
look. The blue scale does not rotate.

TEST: TAG HEUER AQUARACER
there are some unattractive rivet points on the
inside face of the links.
The folding clasp bears the brand logo and
will open only when two lateral push-pieces
are pressed, providing reliable protection
against accidental opening. The clasp also conceals
an extension that folds out. This, however,
is very simple and produced from a stamped
sheet. The bracelet and clasp are sturdy.
Despite its thickness, the watch is comfortable
to wear, although somewhat top-heavy.
Visually, the strongly curved back cover disguises
the case’s height, and the watch appears
flatter than it is.
Readability is extremely important for a
divers’ watch, and here the Aquaracer excels.
The silver-colored hands and the time markings
stand out clearly from the blue dial. In poor
lighting conditions the luminous coating helps
in reading the time and the markings on the
diving bezel. The chronograph can only be
read in daylight. However, silver-colored borders
frame both the chronograph subdials and
make them easier to read at a glance. The
elapsed-seconds scale is graduated in ¼-second
increments. The ETA 7750, which beats at
28,800 vph, is capable of such measurements.
TAG Heuer used the simple, basic version of
the ETA 7750, which unfortunately means it
has a gilded nickel balance rather than a temperature-stable
Glucydur one. It is a shame the
brand apparently chose to cut production costs
here; the superior ‘top’ version is only slightly
more expensive. On the other hand, the complete
absence of ornament, with the exception
of the engraved rotor, is not a major loss, since
the movement is hidden beneath a steel caseback
cover.
In tests conducted on a timing machine, the
Aquaracer kept time well. The biggest difference
between positions was five seconds, and
with the chronograph running, just four seconds,
which indicates good lubrication and
working of the pivots. The Aquaracer is also
well adjusted, gaining just 2.5 seconds. The
drop in amplitude when the chronograph
function is engaged averages 16 degrees and
is well within acceptable limits.
Depth of Design
The best thing about the Aquaracer, however,
is its design. The shimmering blue dial; the blue
ring of the powerful bezel with its polished
ribs; the crown guard; and the massive bracelet
combine to make a suitably sporty impression.
In contrast, the silver frames of the totalizers
and the date window add a touch of elegance,
TEST RESULTS
TAG HEUER AQUARACER CALIBER 16
DAY-DATE
Bracelet and clasp (max 10 points): The
massive steel bracelet and folding clasp with
two safety push-pieces and extension provide a
secure grip. The finishing is average. 7
Operation (5): Easy-to-operate rotating bezel,
large push-pieces, easy-to-grip crown. Force is
needed to press the push-pieces. 4
Case (10): Cleanly finished case with narrow
gaps and fine engraving of back cover. The
bezel, however, is only stamped. 8
Design (15): A fine sports watch with an attractive
blue dial. Not as distinctive as this brand’s
Monaco, Monza and Link models 12
Legibility (5): Good contrast; plenty of luminous
material. One gets used to the two-part
date window. 5
Wearing comfort (10): Despite the thickness,
reasonably comfortable, but top-heavy due to
substantial weight. Sturdy stainless-steel
bracelet. 7
Movement (20): The ETA Valjoux 7750 is the
reliable, standard movement for chronographs.
Unfortunately, TAG Heuer has used the simplest
version without the Glucydur balance. 11
Rate results (10): Low deviations between positions
and with chronograph engaged; well adjusted;
good amplitude 8
Overall value (15): Except for the simple
movement and the indifferent bracelet, the
watch is a reasonable value for the money. 12
TOTAL: 74 points
as do the slightly tapering, faceted hands,
which echo the similarly shaped hour markers.
On closer inspection, many fine details become
evident. For example, there are grooves around
the outside of the dial and inside the numeral
rings of the subdials that recall those of phonograph
records, while the satin-finished features
on the bezel create the appearance of sunbeams
radiating from the center of the watch.
The watch makes a great visual impression, but
with the exception of the date window, is not
very groundbreaking in its design and is also
not immediately recognizable as a TAG Heuer.
For a price of $2,895 the buyer is getting a
decent value. The hands, dial and case are all
well made. It is only with the movement that
one might be disappointed, and wish for a better
version of the 7750. The rate results, however,
are good, as is the ease of operation. And
even if you won’t be diving with it, the wonderful
blue dial is sure to conjure up images of
underwater adventure. ■
The Aquaracer’s sturdy folding clasp
has two push-pieces.