BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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SPIRITS CELEBRATING NEW AMERICAN WHISKEYS This month’s spirits category, New American Whiskeys, was defined as any new Americanmade whiskey released within the past couple of years. And boy, was it exciting to see the submissions roll in. Clearly, this has been an exceedingly creative time for the whiskey industry. For example, American-made single malt whiskeys are on the rise, with the most notable example being the supersoft St. George Single Malt. Soon, we’ll have another: in March, the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States gathered three premier Scotch distillers—John Campbell of Laphroaig, Andy Cant of Cardhu, and Bill Lumsden of Glenmorangie—to distill and barrel a historic American single malt from Scottish barley at the George Washington Distillery in Mount Vernon, Virginia. In the spirit of Independence Day, it also seems appropriate to highlight the independent 98 Angels Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Louisville Distilling Company, Crestwood, KY). A beautiful, mouthwatering newcomer to the whiskey scene. Named for the “angel’s share,” the portion that evaporates from the barrel during the aging process, this golden amber spirit is finished in Port barrels, which explains those juicy redfruit notes that slide into the long finish. Look for orange peel, vanilla and roasted nut flavors, too. abv: 43.3% Price: $46 96 Woodford Reserve Masters Collection: Rare Rye Release New Cask Rye (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a 2-bottle set that also includes Aged Cask Rye, the New Cask version benefits from extra color and flavor soaked up from the barrel, and results in a truly outstanding rye specimen. Maple syrup color and heady caramel aroma with a faint whiff of burnt orange peel and brewed tea. The flavor profile veers toward the dry side, showing caramel interwoven with cocoa, leather and espresso notes, with just the right amount of spicy bite at the end. abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles 95 Old Forester Birthday Bourbon (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This is a complex, rich Bourbon, with notes of brown sugar and toffee, Sherry, dried figs, and hazelnut, lightened with a soft hint of fresh apples. It’s a little boozy on the nose, as might be expected at nearly 100 proof, but stands up to ice or branch water for mellow, flavorful sipping. abv: 49% Price: $50 95 Smooth Ambler Old Scout Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Smooth Ambler Spirits, Maxwelton, WV). This amber-hued, six-year-old Bourbon has a bright, honeyed, slightly peachy scent. On the palate, it has a sweet creaminess, very smooth and light, finishing dry and lovely with just a bit of spicy 68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 distillers who are leading the Alternative Whiskey movement (or, “Alt Whiskey”). This fast-growing group of passionate craft distillers are experimenting with unusual techniques and grains, resulting in some fascinating whiskeys, from Corsair’s triple-smoked Bourbon to Charbay’s beer-spiked hopped whiskeys. They’re inspiring larger outfits to respond with more innovation. Darek Bell, owner of the Corsair Distillery in Nashville, even recently published a howto book called Alt Whiskeys, for DIY types who want to experiment by making Cannabis Moonshine or Chamomile Wheat Whiskey. “Craft distilling is still an infant,” Bell says. “But it is poised to become an ‘enfant terrible.’ ” Don’t doubt it. rye-like sparkle. A fine choice for Manhattans and other Bourbon-based cocktails. abv: 49.5% Price: $37 94 Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr., Single Barrel Bourbon (USA; Sazerac Company, Frankfort, KY). No shrinking violet here; this is a big, powerful Bourbon with a finish that just won’t quit. The honey-colored spirit has a sweet, heavy caramel aroma with some deep, somber espresso notes. Look for rounded burnt-orange flavor and lots of cinnamon and nutmeg on the dry, elongated finish. Temper the alcohol sting with ice water—it’s 100 proof, after all. History buffs will love the old-school style of the bottle and label. abv: 50% Price: $70 94 Michter’s US*1 Unblended American Whiskey (USA; Michter’s Distillery, LLC, Louisville, KY). For full review see page 11. abv: 41.7% Price: $43 93 Corsair Nashville Bourbon (USA; Corsair Artisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). From a small distillery that is leading the Alt Whiskey movement comes this crazy-good, complex whiskey made from corn, smoked barley, rye and wheat. This spirit is front-loaded with big, sweet caramel, but without missing a beat it segues into dark chocolate, espresso, clove, cigar tobacco and every dry flavor under the sun. Plop in the biggest ice cube you can find and enjoy. abv: 50% Price: $45 93 Clyde May’s Whiskey (USA; Spirits Acquisitions, Dallas, TX). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 42.5% Price: $29 93 —Kara newman Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). For a warm and comforting sipper on a chilly evening, this is a fine way to go. This honey-hued Bourbon has a big, powerful, sweet caramel aroma, and a rich mix of buttery, oaky and toasty flavors. Consider it as a dessert pairing. abv: 42.5% Price: $50 92 Jefferson’s Straight Rye Whiskey (USA; Castle Brands, New York, NY). Produced in Canada but bottled in Louisville, this 100% rye whiskey is aged 10 years. Deep gold color, vanilla and peach aroma, soft and full-bodied, this rye has a pleasing citric brightness, lingering peachy and caramel notes with a smattering of cinnamon and clove. Would be great savored with a chunk of ice, or mixed into a rye Manhattan. abv: 47% Price: $40 92 High West Whiskey Son of Bourye (USA; High West Distillery, Park City, UT). It’s no exaggeration to say this well-balanced mix of bourbon and rye provides the best of both worlds, combining the sweetness of bourbon with the light spiciness of rye. Fruitcake and dried fig on the finish add complexity. abv: 46% Price: $40 91 Breaking & Entering Bourbon (USA; St. George Spirits, Alameda, CA). The antithesis of single-barrel Bourbon, this whiskey is made from 80 barrels of Kentucky Bourbon, individually selected and then blended in California. The end result is bright and pretty, a golden Bourbon with a light, fruity fragrance and touches of vanilla and honeysuckle, packaged in a tall wine bottle with an edgy label. abv: 43% Price: $36 91 Woodford Reserve Masters Collection: Rare Rye Release Aged Cask Rye (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a two-bottle set that also includes New Cask Rye, the aged cask yields a soft, light rye variation, with a golden color and mild aroma. Expect creamy vanilla, a touch of lemon, and a clean finish, braced by a bit of brisk alcohol at the end. This is made for classic cocktails. abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles 90 Bowman Brothers Virginia Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Sazerac Company, Frankfort, KY). Though it needs a little coaxing, this small-batch Bourbon is a fitting tribute to the four Bowman brothers, Virginia militia officers in the Revolutionary War. Give it some time and a splash of ice water, and the aromas and flavors open up. Look for sweet notes of almond, cocoa and caramel, plus the clove and nutmeg notes that build on the finish. Best Buy. abv: 45% Price: $30 90 Bulleit Rye Whiskey (USA; Diageo Americas, Plainfield IL). This amber whiskey is made with 95% rye, which puts it on the very high-rye side of the spectrum, and gives it a spicy zip. In some ways, this evokes an ultradry version of an orange liqueur, with juicy orange notes dusted with black pepper, clove, nutmeg and a faint hoppy note. Best Buy. abv: 45% Price: $28

90 Corsair Ryemageddon (USA: Corsair Artisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). The name says it all: it’s bright and energetic, leaning toward riotous. The complex aroma includes apricots and lemon peel mingled with sarsaparilla, honey, and vanilla. On the palate, vanilla dominates, sparked with baking spices, black pepper and a creamy, citrusy note. It’s a little hot straight up, but would be dynamite in a Sazerac or other cocktail. abv: 46% Price: $45 90 Paddleford Creek Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). This bright golden small-batch Bourbon would make for a top-notch whiskey sour, with its surprisingly delicate fragrance. Its touches of lemon peel and creamy vanilla, and smooth character make it one worth noting. Best Buy. abv: 41.5% Price: $24 89 Corsair Small Batch Triple Smoke American Malt Whiskey (USA; Corsair Artisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). A good local alternative for peaty Scotch-lovers, made with a unique blend of three batches of whiskeys smoked with cherry wood, beech wood and peat. Given some time to open up, a waft of smoke mingles with the fruity, malty scent. On the palate, the smoke really builds, but manages to hit the brakes before it overwhelms everything, fading into a burnt-orange, caramel finish. Pair with aged cheeses. abv: 40% Price: $45 89 Hancock’s President’s Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Despite the mild apple and chamomile tea scent, the flavor of this Kentucky small-batch Bourbon is surprisingly big. The honey notes really linger, and even amp up through the finish into a crescendo of cinnamon and clove. abv: 88.9% Price: $43 89 Smooth Ambler Yearling Bourbon (USA; Smooth Ambler Spirits, Maxwelton, WV). Aged 6 months, this small-batch wheated Bourbon is a good choice for cocktails. Although a resiny note in the aroma overwhelms the ribbon of caramel, otherwise this bright amber spirit is warm and inviting. abv: 46% Price: $27/375 ml 89 St. George Single Malt Whiskey Lot 11 (USA; St. George, Alameda, CA). This sunny gold single malt feels so beautifully light and smooth, it threatens to float right off the tongue. The fresh aroma mixes honeysuckle, lychee, pineapple and vanilla. On the palate, a beer-like hoppy note plays against a bit of vanilla and hazelnut. Well balanced. abv: 43% Price: $70 89 Watkins Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). This Bourbon has mellow finesse, from its warm, inviting honey and peaches aroma to elegant flavors that start toffee-like, then fade to leather and black tea notes. abv: 40% Price: $20 89 Wild Turkey 81 Kentucky Bourbon (USA; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). Aged 6–8 years in “alligator charred” oak barrels, this Bourbon has a sweet crème brûlée aroma, with a bit of fruity freshness behind it. Despite the sweet scent, it’s dry and bracing on the palate. This is a great light Bourbon, perfect for mixing, and it would do well topped up with ginger ale and a squeeze of fresh lime. abv: 40.5% Price: $20 88 Balcones True Blue Cask Strength Corn Whisky (USA; Balcones Distilling, Waco, TX). This unique artisan whiskey from Texas is made with roasted Hopi blue corn, then matured in lightly charred new American oak barrels. The result is bold vanilla, cream soda and brown sugar aromas, and a sweet profile with lots of toffee and orange peel. It’s delicious, but a bit hot and rough, and some will find this too strong altogether, even with significant dilution. abv: 62.9% Price: $59 88 Black Eagle Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Golden and bright, this aromatic Bourbon has an exceptionally fresh fragrance mixing apples and lily of the valley with just a delicate touch of vanilla and a faint minty tinge. Soft, creamy and light on the palate. abv: 40% Price: $15 88 High West Whiskey Double Rye (USA; High West Distillery, Park City, UT). This light and perky rye has a warm, soft baked-apple scent. On the palate, look for citrus layered with lingering vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. abv: 46% Price: $35 87 Balcones 1 Texas Single Malt Whisky Special Release (USA; Balcones Distilling, Waco, TX). Finished in ex-Bourbon casks, this dark amber Texas single malt has a thick, syrupy scent, evoking caramel and root beer. Although the alcohol level is palate-numbingly boozy, the flavors are interestingly complex and dry, showing cocoa, leather and espresso. abv: 52.5% Price: $69 86 Charbay Whiskey Hop Flavored Whiskey, Lot R-5. (USA; Charbay Distillers, St. Helena, CA). A whiskey for beer-lovers: Distilled from Racer 5 Beer, and aged in French Oak barrels. The spirit has a peppy scent of fresh apple and pear, plus touches of honey, pepper and smoke. On the palate, it’s hot and astringent, though it mellows with plenty of water to show a beer-like note, a wash of honey and a sprinkle of black pepper and cinnamon on the finish. abv: 49.5% Price: $75 86 Kansas Clean Distilled Spirit Whiskey (USA; Fabulous American Beverages, Rochester, NY). Despite its odious hipsters-only ad campaign, there’s some merit to marketing this as an alternative for whiskey-haters. Drink this blindfolded, and you might swear it’s a coconut-flavored vodka. It’s nearly transparent, with just the faintest golden tinge, it smells like coconut and marshmallow, and it has a pronounced coconut cream flavor with a hint of vanilla and a smooth finish. It’s not that this product is bad—it’s not—but it’s not really whiskey, either. abv: 40% Price: $30 85 John B. Stetson Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). Honey-colored with vibrant orange highlights, this Bourbon is aged at least four years. Give this spirit some time and space to breathe. The aroma has an almost gamy, meaty quality, laid over with vanilla, almond and caramel. On the palate, almond flavors give way to a rather hot and brawny but long caramel finish that dries to a pleasingly leathery tone. abv: 42% Price: $27 84 Early Times 354 Bourbon (USA; Brown- Forman, Louisville, KY). Surprisingly fruity, with notes of apples and pears, and a caramel note that accelerates into the finish. Despite a jarring resin note in the aroma, this is a decent mixer for cocktails, and you’re not going to beat the price. abv: 40% Price: $16 WineMag.com | 69

90<br />

Corsair Ryemageddon (USA: Corsair Artisan<br />

Distillery, Nashville, TN). The name<br />

says it all: it’s bright and energetic, leaning toward riotous.<br />

The complex aroma includes apricots and lemon<br />

peel mingled with sarsaparilla, honey, and vanilla. On<br />

the palate, vanilla dominates, sparked with baking spices,<br />

black pepper and a creamy, citrusy note. It’s a little<br />

hot straight up, but would be dynamite in a Sazerac or<br />

other cocktail.<br />

abv: 46% Price: $45<br />

90<br />

Paddleford Creek Bourbon Whiskey<br />

(USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains,<br />

NY). This bright golden small-batch Bourbon would<br />

make for a top-notch whiskey sour, with its surprisingly<br />

delicate fragrance. Its touches of lemon peel and<br />

creamy vanilla, and smooth character make it one worth<br />

noting. Best Buy.<br />

abv: 41.5% Price: $24<br />

89<br />

Corsair Small Batch Triple Smoke American<br />

Malt Whiskey (USA; Corsair Artisan<br />

Distillery, Nashville, TN). A good local alternative<br />

for peaty Scotch-lovers, made with a unique blend of<br />

three batches of whiskeys smoked with cherry wood,<br />

beech wood and peat. Given some time to open up, a<br />

waft of smoke mingles with the fruity, malty scent. On<br />

the palate, the smoke really builds, but manages to hit<br />

the brakes before it overwhelms everything, fading into<br />

a burnt-orange, caramel finish. Pair with aged cheeses.<br />

abv: 40% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Hancock’s President’s Reserve Single<br />

Barrel Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J.<br />

Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Despite the<br />

mild apple and chamomile tea scent, the flavor of this<br />

Kentucky small-batch Bourbon is surprisingly big. The<br />

honey notes really linger, and even amp up through the<br />

finish into a crescendo of cinnamon and clove.<br />

abv: 88.9% Price: $43<br />

89<br />

Smooth Ambler Yearling Bourbon (USA;<br />

Smooth Ambler Spirits, Maxwelton, WV).<br />

Aged 6 months, this small-batch wheated Bourbon is<br />

a good choice for cocktails. Although a resiny note in<br />

the aroma overwhelms the ribbon of caramel, otherwise<br />

this bright amber spirit is warm and inviting.<br />

abv: 46% Price: $27/375 ml<br />

89<br />

St. George Single Malt Whiskey Lot 11<br />

(USA; St. George, Alameda, CA). This sunny<br />

gold single malt feels so beautifully light and smooth,<br />

it threatens to float right off the tongue. The fresh aroma<br />

mixes honeysuckle, lychee, pineapple and vanilla.<br />

On the palate, a beer-like hoppy note plays against a bit<br />

of vanilla and hazelnut. Well balanced.<br />

abv: 43% Price: $70<br />

89<br />

Watkins Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon<br />

Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons,<br />

White Plains, NY). This Bourbon has mellow finesse,<br />

from its warm, inviting honey and peaches aroma to elegant<br />

flavors that start toffee-like, then fade to leather<br />

and black tea notes.<br />

abv: 40% Price: $20<br />

89<br />

Wild Turkey 81 Kentucky Bourbon (USA;<br />

Campari America, San Francisco, CA).<br />

Aged 6–8 years in “alligator charred” oak barrels, this<br />

Bourbon has a sweet crème brûlée aroma, with a bit of<br />

fruity freshness behind it. Despite the sweet scent, it’s<br />

dry and bracing on the palate. This is a great light Bourbon,<br />

perfect for mixing, and it would do well topped up<br />

with ginger ale and a squeeze of fresh lime.<br />

abv: 40.5% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Balcones True Blue Cask Strength Corn<br />

Whisky (USA; Balcones Distilling, Waco,<br />

TX). This unique artisan whiskey from Texas is made<br />

with roasted Hopi blue corn, then matured in lightly<br />

charred new American oak barrels. The result is bold<br />

vanilla, cream soda and brown sugar aromas, and a<br />

sweet profile with lots of toffee and orange peel. It’s delicious,<br />

but a bit hot and rough, and some will find this<br />

too strong altogether, even with significant dilution.<br />

abv: 62.9% Price: $59<br />

88<br />

Black Eagle Kentucky Straight Bourbon<br />

Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons,<br />

White Plains, NY). Golden and bright, this aromatic<br />

Bourbon has an exceptionally fresh fragrance mixing<br />

apples and lily of the valley with just a delicate touch of<br />

vanilla and a faint minty tinge. Soft, creamy and light<br />

on the palate.<br />

abv: 40% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

High West Whiskey Double Rye (USA;<br />

High West Distillery, Park City, UT). This<br />

light and perky rye has a warm, soft baked-apple scent.<br />

On the palate, look for citrus layered with lingering vanilla,<br />

cinnamon and nutmeg.<br />

abv: 46% Price: $35<br />

87<br />

Balcones 1 Texas Single Malt Whisky<br />

Special Release (USA; Balcones Distilling,<br />

Waco, TX). Finished in ex-Bourbon casks, this<br />

dark amber Texas single malt has a thick, syrupy scent,<br />

evoking caramel and root beer. Although the alcohol<br />

level is palate-numbingly boozy, the flavors are interestingly<br />

complex and dry, showing cocoa, leather and<br />

espresso.<br />

abv: 52.5% Price: $69<br />

86<br />

Charbay Whiskey Hop Flavored Whiskey,<br />

Lot R-5. (USA; Charbay Distillers,<br />

St. Helena, CA). A whiskey for beer-lovers: Distilled<br />

from Racer 5 Beer, and aged in French Oak barrels.<br />

The spirit has a peppy scent of fresh apple and pear,<br />

plus touches of honey, pepper and smoke. On the palate,<br />

it’s hot and astringent, though it mellows with plenty<br />

of water to show a beer-like note, a wash of honey and<br />

a sprinkle of black pepper and cinnamon on the finish.<br />

abv: 49.5% Price: $75<br />

86<br />

Kansas Clean Distilled Spirit Whiskey<br />

(USA; Fabulous American Beverages,<br />

Rochester, NY). Despite its odious hipsters-only ad<br />

campaign, there’s some merit to marketing this as an<br />

alternative for whiskey-haters. Drink this blindfolded,<br />

and you might swear it’s a coconut-flavored vodka. It’s<br />

nearly transparent, with just the faintest golden tinge, it<br />

smells like coconut and marshmallow, and it has a pronounced<br />

coconut cream flavor with a hint of vanilla and<br />

a smooth finish. It’s not that this product is bad—it’s<br />

not—but it’s not really whiskey, either.<br />

abv: 40% Price: $30<br />

85<br />

John B. Stetson Bourbon Whiskey (USA;<br />

Vision <strong>Wine</strong> & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ).<br />

Honey-colored with vibrant orange highlights, this<br />

Bourbon is aged at least four years. Give this spirit some<br />

time and space to breathe. The aroma has an almost<br />

gamy, meaty quality, laid over with vanilla, almond and<br />

caramel. On the palate, almond flavors give way to a<br />

rather hot and brawny but long caramel finish that dries<br />

to a pleasingly leathery tone.<br />

abv: 42% Price: $27<br />

84<br />

Early Times 354 Bourbon (USA; Brown-<br />

Forman, Louisville, KY). Surprisingly fruity,<br />

with notes of apples and pears, and a caramel note that<br />

accelerates into the finish. Despite a jarring resin note<br />

in the aroma, this is a decent mixer for cocktails, and<br />

you’re not going to beat the price.<br />

abv: 40% Price: $16<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 69

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