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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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88<br />

Château de Calavon 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />

d’Aix-en-Provence). Fruity and ripe,<br />

this has rich red fruits and a smooth texture, with<br />

blended acidity. Its concentrated, with a piquant edge<br />

of pepper from the alcohol. A Tres Vite. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Château Paradis 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />

d’Aix-en-Provence). This is full bodied and<br />

aromatic, with ripe red fruits layered with spice and<br />

pepper. With its weight, this is a food-friendly wine—<br />

great for barbecued fish. Central Market. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Les Quatre Tours 2011 Classique Rosé<br />

(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Smooth yet<br />

crisp, this has attractive acidity and strawberry fruit. It is<br />

poised and elegant, with just the right amount of acidity.<br />

VOS Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $11<br />

87<br />

Ravoire et Fils 2011 Domaine de la Rabiotte<br />

Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).<br />

This is a rich red-berry-fruited wine. It is balanced<br />

and full, with nutmeg and pepper as well as crisp fruit<br />

flavors. With its ripeness, it’s certainly suitable for food.<br />

Saranty Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Château Revelette 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />

d’Aix-en-Provence). On the rich side, this is<br />

a full-bodied and forward. It’s concentrated and spicy,<br />

and with its weight it is a food-friendly wine. Langdon<br />

Shiverick. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />

COTEAUX VAROIS<br />

90<br />

Château de l’Escarelle 2011 Les Belles<br />

Bastilles Rosé (Coteaux Varois). Pink<br />

fruited and light, with an attractive herbal character.<br />

The crisp acidity cuts right through the rich mouthfeel.<br />

Bright and lively, the finish has a grapefruit note that<br />

lends lift. Willette <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $18<br />

90<br />

Domaine du Deffends 2011 Rosé d’une<br />

Nuit (Coteaux Varois). Delicious and crisp,<br />

this has an initial taste of intense citrus and red fruit.<br />

The sensation carries through the wine, with a fruity yet<br />

taut and mineral-driven texture. There is great fruit on<br />

the finish. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

88<br />

Château Margüi 2011 Perle de Margüi<br />

Rosé (Coteaux Varois). From organic<br />

grapes, this is a soft, red-fruited wine. The tang of acidity<br />

is well balanced by the full fruit character. It’s ripe and<br />

attractively structured. Michael Corso Selections.<br />

—R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $22<br />

88<br />

Les Maîtres Vignerons de Saint-Louis<br />

2011 Terres de Saint-Lion Rosé (Coteaux<br />

Varois). The wine is crisp, full of red berry fruit and<br />

lively acidity, with a smooth texture. This is terrific as an<br />

accompaniment to a summer meal or as an apéritif. The<br />

finish is deliciously fruity. Screwcap. Southern <strong>Wine</strong> and<br />

Spirits. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

87<br />

Chateau La Calisse 2011 Patricia Ortelli<br />

Rosé (Coteaux Varois). This has superrich<br />

fruit, spice and a touch of pepper, revealing a wine that<br />

is powerful for a Provence rosé. This is impressive and<br />

finely made. Margaux & Company. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Chateau La Calisse 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />

Varois). Full bodied and rich, this is a concentrated<br />

effort. Flavors of pepper and spice, red plum and<br />

ripe strawberry combine in this powerful wine. Margaux<br />

& Company. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Château Routas 2011 Rosé (Coteaux Varois).<br />

This is very soft and rounded, with a caramel<br />

edge. Its warm, ripe mouthfeel is marked by fruity,<br />

light acidity and a splash of lime. Screwcap. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />

West. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $13<br />

85<br />

Château de l’Escarelle 2011 iPink Rosé<br />

(Coteaux Varois). A soft wine, with just a<br />

touch of sweetness. The ripe fruit lends a gentle, smooth<br />

texture, and it’s balanced with attractive red-currant<br />

acidity. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

GRÜNER VELTLINER<br />

94<br />

Schloss Gobelsburg 2010 Lamm Erste<br />

Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal).<br />

This is concentrated and ripe, with its fruit sublimated<br />

into a tense, mineral texture, layered with equally intense<br />

acidity. It has power, with the fruit lending a rich,<br />

full-bodied finish. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />

93<br />

Eichinger 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This<br />

concentrated wine hits the palate like the shock of a<br />

cold shower. As the fruit settles, it shows depth of flavor,<br />

with notes of green apples and honey. Young and crisp,<br />

this is worth aging for another year at least. Weygandt-<br />

Metzler. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

93<br />

Forstreiter 2010 Tabor Reserve Die Räritat<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is intensely<br />

rich, with very concentrated ripe fruit. Apple<br />

and peach flavors are cut by acidity. A note of pepper<br />

details the finish. Age for 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman<br />

& Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

93<br />

Geyerhof 2010 Steinleithn Erste Lage Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Steely<br />

and mineral in character, this is a taut, nervy wine. It<br />

has great acidity and balance, with green fruit and sliced<br />

apple flavors. Keep for 3–4 years. Screwcap. Blue Danube<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

93<br />

Hirsch 2010 Kammerner Lamm Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and perfumed,<br />

this has almond, apple and baked-pear flavors<br />

that are layered with notes of nutmeg and pepper. It’s a<br />

concentrated wine, with acidity that has become rounded.<br />

Made from a top Kamptal vineyard, this has the<br />

potential for aging further. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

93<br />

Kurt Angerer 2010 Eichenstaude Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Almost sweet<br />

in its richness, this succeeds despite being the antithesis<br />

of Grüner. It’s so ripe, so full, yet wonderfully balanced.<br />

This is worth aging over 3–4 years. Weygandt-Metzler.<br />

Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

93<br />

Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wachtberg Erste<br />

Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full<br />

review see page 5. Cellar Selection.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $28<br />

92<br />

Eichinger 2011 Wechselberg Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and creamy, this is<br />

full of rich pear and green plum fruit. It has weight and<br />

is layered with acidity, with a spice note and a taut, mineral<br />

texture. This is complex and ageworthy. Weygandt-<br />

Metzler. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />

92<br />

Geyerhof 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage<br />

Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal).<br />

While the wine is technically dry, its richness gives it a<br />

sweeter sensation. The ripe apricot and pineapple fruit<br />

is cut with knife-like acidity, allowing this concentrated<br />

wine to remain poised, with a crisp finish. Blue Danube<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

92<br />

Kurt Angerer 2010 Loam Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Niederösterreich). A rich and creamy wine,<br />

this is full of the ripest fruit. It has flavors of yellow fruit<br />

and pineapple, with intense acidity. The wine is powerful<br />

yet balanced, with a delicious acidity on the finish.<br />

Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

92<br />

Markus Huber 2011 Obere Steigen<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). This is finely<br />

proportioned, with intense fruit flavors laced with spice,<br />

acidity and a mineral texture. Made using grapes from<br />

a single vineyard, it is concentrated, with a depth of intense<br />

flavor. For aging over 3–4 years. Screwcap. Circo<br />

Vino. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />

92<br />

Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wiedenberg Tradition<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full<br />

review see page 7.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />

92<br />

Stadt Krems 2010 Wachtberg Erste Lage<br />

Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 57

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