BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
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88<br />
Château de Calavon 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />
d’Aix-en-Provence). Fruity and ripe,<br />
this has rich red fruits and a smooth texture, with<br />
blended acidity. Its concentrated, with a piquant edge<br />
of pepper from the alcohol. A Tres Vite. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Château Paradis 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />
d’Aix-en-Provence). This is full bodied and<br />
aromatic, with ripe red fruits layered with spice and<br />
pepper. With its weight, this is a food-friendly wine—<br />
great for barbecued fish. Central Market. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Les Quatre Tours 2011 Classique Rosé<br />
(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Smooth yet<br />
crisp, this has attractive acidity and strawberry fruit. It is<br />
poised and elegant, with just the right amount of acidity.<br />
VOS Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $11<br />
87<br />
Ravoire et Fils 2011 Domaine de la Rabiotte<br />
Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).<br />
This is a rich red-berry-fruited wine. It is balanced<br />
and full, with nutmeg and pepper as well as crisp fruit<br />
flavors. With its ripeness, it’s certainly suitable for food.<br />
Saranty Imports. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Château Revelette 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />
d’Aix-en-Provence). On the rich side, this is<br />
a full-bodied and forward. It’s concentrated and spicy,<br />
and with its weight it is a food-friendly wine. Langdon<br />
Shiverick. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
COTEAUX VAROIS<br />
90<br />
Château de l’Escarelle 2011 Les Belles<br />
Bastilles Rosé (Coteaux Varois). Pink<br />
fruited and light, with an attractive herbal character.<br />
The crisp acidity cuts right through the rich mouthfeel.<br />
Bright and lively, the finish has a grapefruit note that<br />
lends lift. Willette <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $18<br />
90<br />
Domaine du Deffends 2011 Rosé d’une<br />
Nuit (Coteaux Varois). Delicious and crisp,<br />
this has an initial taste of intense citrus and red fruit.<br />
The sensation carries through the wine, with a fruity yet<br />
taut and mineral-driven texture. There is great fruit on<br />
the finish. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Château Margüi 2011 Perle de Margüi<br />
Rosé (Coteaux Varois). From organic<br />
grapes, this is a soft, red-fruited wine. The tang of acidity<br />
is well balanced by the full fruit character. It’s ripe and<br />
attractively structured. Michael Corso Selections.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Les Maîtres Vignerons de Saint-Louis<br />
2011 Terres de Saint-Lion Rosé (Coteaux<br />
Varois). The wine is crisp, full of red berry fruit and<br />
lively acidity, with a smooth texture. This is terrific as an<br />
accompaniment to a summer meal or as an apéritif. The<br />
finish is deliciously fruity. Screwcap. Southern <strong>Wine</strong> and<br />
Spirits. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
87<br />
Chateau La Calisse 2011 Patricia Ortelli<br />
Rosé (Coteaux Varois). This has superrich<br />
fruit, spice and a touch of pepper, revealing a wine that<br />
is powerful for a Provence rosé. This is impressive and<br />
finely made. Margaux & Company. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Chateau La Calisse 2011 Rosé (Coteaux<br />
Varois). Full bodied and rich, this is a concentrated<br />
effort. Flavors of pepper and spice, red plum and<br />
ripe strawberry combine in this powerful wine. Margaux<br />
& Company. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Château Routas 2011 Rosé (Coteaux Varois).<br />
This is very soft and rounded, with a caramel<br />
edge. Its warm, ripe mouthfeel is marked by fruity,<br />
light acidity and a splash of lime. Screwcap. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />
West. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Château de l’Escarelle 2011 iPink Rosé<br />
(Coteaux Varois). A soft wine, with just a<br />
touch of sweetness. The ripe fruit lends a gentle, smooth<br />
texture, and it’s balanced with attractive red-currant<br />
acidity. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
GRÜNER VELTLINER<br />
94<br />
Schloss Gobelsburg 2010 Lamm Erste<br />
Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal).<br />
This is concentrated and ripe, with its fruit sublimated<br />
into a tense, mineral texture, layered with equally intense<br />
acidity. It has power, with the fruit lending a rich,<br />
full-bodied finish. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />
93<br />
Eichinger 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This<br />
concentrated wine hits the palate like the shock of a<br />
cold shower. As the fruit settles, it shows depth of flavor,<br />
with notes of green apples and honey. Young and crisp,<br />
this is worth aging for another year at least. Weygandt-<br />
Metzler. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Forstreiter 2010 Tabor Reserve Die Räritat<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is intensely<br />
rich, with very concentrated ripe fruit. Apple<br />
and peach flavors are cut by acidity. A note of pepper<br />
details the finish. Age for 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman<br />
& Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Geyerhof 2010 Steinleithn Erste Lage Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Steely<br />
and mineral in character, this is a taut, nervy wine. It<br />
has great acidity and balance, with green fruit and sliced<br />
apple flavors. Keep for 3–4 years. Screwcap. Blue Danube<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Hirsch 2010 Kammerner Lamm Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and perfumed,<br />
this has almond, apple and baked-pear flavors<br />
that are layered with notes of nutmeg and pepper. It’s a<br />
concentrated wine, with acidity that has become rounded.<br />
Made from a top Kamptal vineyard, this has the<br />
potential for aging further. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Kurt Angerer 2010 Eichenstaude Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Almost sweet<br />
in its richness, this succeeds despite being the antithesis<br />
of Grüner. It’s so ripe, so full, yet wonderfully balanced.<br />
This is worth aging over 3–4 years. Weygandt-Metzler.<br />
Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wachtberg Erste<br />
Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full<br />
review see page 5. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $28<br />
92<br />
Eichinger 2011 Wechselberg Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and creamy, this is<br />
full of rich pear and green plum fruit. It has weight and<br />
is layered with acidity, with a spice note and a taut, mineral<br />
texture. This is complex and ageworthy. Weygandt-<br />
Metzler. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Geyerhof 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage<br />
Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal).<br />
While the wine is technically dry, its richness gives it a<br />
sweeter sensation. The ripe apricot and pineapple fruit<br />
is cut with knife-like acidity, allowing this concentrated<br />
wine to remain poised, with a crisp finish. Blue Danube<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Kurt Angerer 2010 Loam Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Niederösterreich). A rich and creamy wine,<br />
this is full of the ripest fruit. It has flavors of yellow fruit<br />
and pineapple, with intense acidity. The wine is powerful<br />
yet balanced, with a delicious acidity on the finish.<br />
Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Markus Huber 2011 Obere Steigen<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). This is finely<br />
proportioned, with intense fruit flavors laced with spice,<br />
acidity and a mineral texture. Made using grapes from<br />
a single vineyard, it is concentrated, with a depth of intense<br />
flavor. For aging over 3–4 years. Screwcap. Circo<br />
Vino. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
92<br />
Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wiedenberg Tradition<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full<br />
review see page 7.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />
92<br />
Stadt Krems 2010 Wachtberg Erste Lage<br />
Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This<br />
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