BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

89
Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Les Becs Fins
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). This blend of
60% Grenache and 40% Syrah is a bit feral, with sweaty
leather notes that actually work well with the wine’s
meaty, black olive and dark plum elements. It’s full bodied
yet supple, with a lingering finish. Drink now–2015.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
88
Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Romanaise
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). The
blend in this cuvée is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah,
aged in second-use oak. The oak provides hints of baking
spices on the nose and some cedary notes on the
palate, nicely accenting the bright black-cherry fruit in
this medium-bodied wine. Soft tannins combine with
mouthwatering acids on the finish. Drink now–2016.
Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22
88
Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Vincent
de Catari (Côtes du Rhône Villages).
Aged predominantly in concrete tanks, this treatment
allows the fruit to speak loudly and clearly, delivering
dark cherry flavors tinged with dried herbs. It’s creamy
in texture, with ample acids on the finish to help balance
the rich tannins. Drink now–2018. Serge Doré Selections.
—J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $17
88
Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Mapalis Plan
De Dieu (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Plan
de Dieu is an oft-overlooked commune within the
Côtes du Rhône Villages that frequently produces very
ripe wines. This one is chocolaty and chunky in style,
with intense notes of black cherries and some extracted,
bitter notes of coffee and cocoa on the finish. Drink it
over the next few years with heaty stews or braises. Gabriel
Meffre America. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $16
87
Louis Bernard 2009 Côtes du Rhône Villages.
Bulky and rugged but sound, with some
drying tannins on the finish. It compensates by offering
attractive flavors of black cherries, black olives and
hints of asphalt and garrigue. Try it with hearty braises
or stews. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13
87
Perrin & Fils 2009 Côtes du Rhône Villages.
Like many of the Perrin & Fils wines,
this one is firmly structured, its cherry and cocoa flavors
ending on a dusty, tannic note. But the fruit is attractive,
and even boasts some complexity in the wisps of
garrigue on the nose. Probably best from 2013–2017.
Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $15
87
Vignobles La Coterie 2009 Seguret
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Séguret wines
often have a firmness to their tannins, and this is no exception.
Attractive notes of red cherries, dusty earth
and garrigue are framed by starching tannins, which
leave the finish spicy and drying. Drink it now with fatty
red meats, or give it a couple of years in the cellar to
mellow. Cordon Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $16
86
Ferraton Pere et Fils 2009 Plan de Dieu
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Plummy and
confected, with the baked-fruit character and hints
of raisined fruit that can sometimes affect wines from
the Plan de Dieu. Thankfully, the tannins are supple,
and while there’s some alcoholic warmth, it’s still easy
to drink. Drink now–2014. Baron Francois Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $17
86
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Rasteau Le
Cancarot (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This
is dry and cedary upfront, with decent raspberry fruit
emerging on the palate. It’s medium bodied and lacks
the richness and expansiveness of many 2009 Rhônes,
but still offers a solid if somewhat oaky drinking experience.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $29
85
Kirkland Signature 2009 Côtes du Rhône
Villages. A solid wine at a rock-bottom price,
this Côtes du Rhône Villages was put together by the
well-known négociant Patrick LeSec. The full-bodied,
amply textured wine delivers bright and cheery cherry
and cinnamon flavors with a hint of chocolate. Only
a slightly sharp, acidic tang kept the score from rising
higher. DC Flynt MW Selections. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $7
RASTEAU
92
Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Vieilles Vignes
(Rasteau). The poster child for Tardieu’s
winemaking style is this 2009 Côtes du Rhône. It features
masses of luscious oak—toasted coconut, cedar,
vanilla—with just enough raspberry fruit to support it.
It’s full bodied and lushly textured, even a bit dessertlike
despite being totally dry. Probably best consumed
on its own over the next few years. Wilson Daniels Ltd.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $31
89
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Les Valats (Rasteau).
The Jaume family’s négociant business is
thriving because of wines like this that faithfully represent
their terroirs while offering solid value. This raspberry-
and garrigue-scented wine features ample weight
framed by supple tannins that firm up on the finish.
Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $27
WHITE WINES
93
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Hermitage.
For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5% Price: $79
92
Fayolle Fils & Fille 2009 Les Dionnières
(Hermitage). This seemingly forward Hermitage
boasts bold notes of lime, pineapple and melon,
wrapped in a soft blanket of toastiness and restrained
oak. It’s round in the mouth and ample in body, with a
long finish faintly suggestive of coffee. Drink now. Serge
Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: NA Price: $70
91
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Le Chevalier de
Sterimberg (Hermitage). This reticent wine
takes a bit of airing to come around, but once it does
it shows impressive depth of melon fruit accented by
crushed stone. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly
oily texture, while the finish has a drying, tactile quality
to it that’s a bit like chalk dust. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $95
90
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de
Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). This wine—
made using fruit from 60-year-old Marsanne vines—is
full bodied but crisp and reined in at the same time.
Hints of toast accent citrus and melon notes that turn
more lemony and lean on the finish. Could improve
with 3–5 years of cellaring. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $60
88
Cave de Tain 2009 Au Coeur des Siècles
(Hermitage). Full-bodied, broad and a bit oily
in texture, this concentrated old-vine Marsanne seems a
bit evolved, with open aromas of honeyed fruit and truffle
backed by citrusy fruit and a hint of anise. Long and
intense on the finish. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC.
—J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $60
PROVENCE
BANDOL
92
Domaines Ott 2011 Château de Romassan
Rosé (Bandol). With its Mourvèdre
content, this is a big-hearted wine. It is finely balanced
between its rich yellow and red fruits and spice and
acidity. This is a great food rosé, textured and ripe. Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $45
91
Domaine de l’Hermitage 2011 L’Oratoire
Rosé (Bandol). This is a finely balanced wine,
showing its crisp acidity and its fruitiness along with a
richer character that lends weight. This is both immediately
attractive and worth aging for a few months. Ideal
Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
91
Domaine Sorin 2011 Rosé (Bandol).
With a dominance of Mourvèdre, this is big
and rich. It has weight, with intense fruit flavors and
a dense texture. Structured and concentrated, this is a
food-friendly rosé. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $19
85
Ravoire et Fils 2011 Le Pont Rosé (Bandol).
A herbal aroma gives a green feel to this
wine. It is fruity, with apple and red currant flavors and
notes of thyme and mint. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
CÔTES DE PROVENCE
93
Château d’Esclans 2010 Garrus Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). For full review see
page 4.
abv: 13.5% Price: $90
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