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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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85<br />

Feudi del Pisciotto 2009 Carolina Marenga<br />

Grillo (Sicilia). This Sicilian Grillo has<br />

bright aromas of candied fruit, lemon zest and caramel.<br />

The mouthfeel is syrupy and oily. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

CANNONAU DI<br />

SARDEGNA<br />

90<br />

Tenuta Soletta 2007 Keramos Riserva<br />

(Cannonau di Sardegna). There’s a glimpse<br />

of dried herb and rosemary behind more intense aromas<br />

of black fruit, cherry and leather. This rich wine is<br />

concentrated and persistent, and it should pair well with<br />

stewed meat dishes. Tricana Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $42<br />

87<br />

Santa Maria La Palma 2006 Riserva (Cannonau<br />

di Sardegna). Garnet-ruby in color,<br />

this has fresh aromas of white cherry, plum, dried dill<br />

and rosemary. The mouthfeel is simple and clean, with<br />

fresh acidity on the close. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />

Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $15<br />

87<br />

Sella & Mosca 2007 Riserva (Cannonau<br />

di Sardegna). This opens with bright aromas<br />

of wild berry, white cherry, spice, cola and dried medicinal<br />

herb. It’s a streamlined, elegant wine, with fresh<br />

acidity and a bitter almond finish. Palm Bay International.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Tenute Soletta 2008 Corona Majore (Cannonau<br />

di Sardegna). This offers a raw, sharp<br />

note of garden herb and white cherry. The natural acidity<br />

and crispness suggests it should pair well with cheese<br />

ravioli in a sage butter sauce. Tricana Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $33<br />

CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS<br />

90<br />

Cantina Santadi 2007 Rocca Rubia Riserva<br />

(Carignano del Sulcis). This is a very interesting<br />

wine that shows a unique bouquet of wild<br />

berry, dried rosemary and black olive aromas. There is<br />

elegance and balance here, with a tight, velvety finish.<br />

Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

88<br />

Sella & Mosca 2005 Terre Rare Riserva<br />

(Carignano del Sulcis). Savory and sophisticated<br />

aromas of cured meat, leather, dried fruit and<br />

prune are elegant and nicely evolved. There’s a bright<br />

touch of bitter almond on the finish. Palm Bay International.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Cantina Santadi 2008 Grotta Rossa (Carignano<br />

del Sulcis). This is an easy-drinking<br />

wine that opens with tight aromas of wild berry, dried<br />

rosemary and green herb. The finish has both sweet and<br />

sour elements. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012<br />

ISOLA DEI NURAGHI<br />

92<br />

Agricola Punica 2008 Barrua (Isola dei<br />

Nuraghi). This is a sophisticated blend of Carignano,<br />

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it’s always<br />

delightful. This vintage shows intense, soft notes of<br />

dried sage and rosemary. Kobrand. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $60<br />

91<br />

Pala 2006 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). The<br />

rich aromas of blackberry, rosemary oil, dried<br />

sage, exotic spice and chocolate are impressive and<br />

complex. The mouthfeel is soft, enduring, velvety and<br />

long-lasting. Banville & Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Argiolas 2007 Korem (Isola dei Nuraghi).<br />

This is a dark and sophisticated red, with an interesting<br />

aromatic profile that includes dried rosemary,<br />

sage, cola, blackberry, leather and spice. It’s thick and<br />

powerful on the close and should pair well with red<br />

meat. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

90<br />

Argiolas 2005 Turriga (Isola dei Nuraghi).<br />

This hearty blend boasts a dark, inky color, with<br />

bright aromas of black fruit, cola, dried rosemary, black<br />

olive and spice. The finish is thick, concentrated and<br />

long lasting. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $80<br />

90<br />

Pala 2007 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). This<br />

blend of Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale<br />

opens with bright, intense fruit, with notes of blackberry,<br />

crème de cassis and pomegranate juice. The mouthfeel<br />

is firm and structured. Banville & Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $46<br />

88<br />

Pala 2008 Essentija Bovale (Isola dei<br />

Nuraghi). Bovale is a little-known indigenous<br />

grape from Sardinia. This opens with savory aromas of<br />

cured meat, chocolate, ripe fruit and prune. The close<br />

is bold, bitter and bright. Banville & Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

87<br />

Argiolas 2008 Costera Cannonau (Isola<br />

dei Nuraghi). This pretty Cannonau-based<br />

wine opens with ripe aromas of blackberry, tobacco and<br />

dried spice. The mouthfeel is smooth, plush and dense.<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

Argiolas 2007 Is Solinas (Isola dei<br />

Nuraghi). This opens with raw notes of wild<br />

berry and dried herb that lend it an untamed, rustic<br />

feel. The palate is bright. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />

87<br />

Pala 2009 Silenzi (Isola dei Nuraghi).<br />

Fresh and easy, this shows bright berry aromas,<br />

with subtle touches of forest floor and bramble. This<br />

should pair well with barbecued pork or grilled hamburgers.<br />

Banville & Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

OTHER RED WINES<br />

93<br />

Girolamo Russo 2009 Feudo Nerello<br />

Mascalese (Etna). A blend based on Nerello<br />

Mascalese, with a tiny percentage of Nerello Cappuccio,<br />

this boasts a bold, compelling bouquet of wild berry,<br />

leather, tobacco and a light shading of crushed spice.<br />

The mouthfeel is characterized by elegance, power and<br />

determination. Panebianco. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $55<br />

93<br />

Girolamo Russo 2009 San Lorenzo Nerello<br />

Mascalese (Etna). Delicate and sophisticated,<br />

this has notes of wild berry, rosemary, crushed<br />

stone, tobacco and spice that are delivered with slow,<br />

beautiful intensity. The wine shows freshness, structure<br />

and staying power. Panebianco. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $55<br />

90<br />

Ceuso 2008 Rosso (Sicilia). For full review<br />

see page 9.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />

88<br />

Sella & Mosca 2006 Tanca Farrá Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon (Alghero). This shows aromas<br />

of cola, dried garden herb, rosemary oil and violet.<br />

The palate has a bright, tonic quality. Palm Bay International.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

88<br />

Tenuta Rapitalà 2009 Alto Nero d’Avola<br />

(Sicilia). The palate has a touch of green rosemary<br />

and wild berry, with a hint of toasted almond on<br />

the finish. It is named after the high-altitude vineyard<br />

(located 1,300–1,700 feet above sea level) from which<br />

the Nero d’Avola grapes were sourced. Frederick Wildman<br />

& Sons, Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $21<br />

DESSERT WINES<br />

91<br />

Cantine Florio 2008 Passito di Pantelleria.<br />

Ripe fruit, dried apricot, candied fruit and<br />

sweet caramel open the nose of this amber-colored dessert<br />

wine. The wine imparts a thick, chewy mouthfeel,<br />

with loads of apricot sweetness and honey-coated almond<br />

on the finish. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA/500 ml<br />

90<br />

Cantine Florio 2008 Malvasia delle Lipari.<br />

This passito dessert wine from the island<br />

of Lipari delivers a deep amber color, with bright<br />

aromas of resin, caramel, butterscotch, candied fruit,<br />

chestnut and honey. The mouthfeel is rich, syrupy and<br />

very sweet. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml<br />

RHÔNE<br />

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE<br />

95<br />

Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand<br />

Veneur Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-<br />

Pape). A prodigious effort, the 2009 Vieilles Vignes<br />

from Grand Veneur includes a whopping 40% Mourvèdre<br />

in the blend (there’s also 10% Syrah, with the bal-

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