BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

85
Tapeña 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra
de Castilla). For full review see page 14.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
83
Tussock Jumper 2010 Tempranillo (Vino
de la Tierra de Castilla). Quiet up front, with
dull, candied aromas of black cherry and plum. This
feels bullish and grabby, with clipped, crisp flavors of
red plum and cherry pie filling. Fresh, but it comes up
short on flavor on the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $10
82
Bodegas Navarro López 2010 Rojo
Granrojo Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra
de Castilla). Stalky aromas give off the impression
of corn and funk. It feels ultrasnappy, with medicinal
fruit, forced oak and berry flavors that don’t really click.
The finish is grating and slightly bitter. Quintessential
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $9
81
Volteo 2009 Tempranillo-Shiraz (Vino de
la Tierra de Castilla). This is gritty, burnt and
stalky smelling. On the palate it’s sour and underdeveloped
as a whole. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
80
Mano A Mano 2009 Manon Tempranillo
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This smells
like compost. It feels hard and clacky, with sharp acidity
and weedy, minty flavors that finish rough and green.
Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $8
CASTILLA Y LEON
93
François Lurton 2008 El Albar Lurton Excelencia
Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla y León). An excellent effort given that 2008
was by no means an excellent vintage. This Tempranillo
is loaded with alluring aromas of sous-bois, marzipan,
cola, moss and black-fruit aromas. The feel is thorough
and pure, with blackberry, black licorice, graphite and
chocolate flavors. It’s textured and deep, but not overly
tannic or hard on the finish. Drink now through 2015.
Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $55
92
Bodegas Leda 2008 Leda Viñas Viejas
Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla
y León). A full, ripe and generous Tempranillo, with
rich aromas of prune and blackberry offset by balsamic
notes and tobacco. It feels lush and smooth, with concentrated
flavors of roasted berry, coffee, chocolate and
tobacco. Huge and lasting on the finish, has subtle tannins
and complexity. Drink now through 2016. Folio
Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
90
François Lurton 2008 El Albar Lurton
Barricas (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla
y León). Impressive for a 2008 Tempranillo. This
opens with aromas of balsam wood, spice, blackberry
and plum. The feel is grippy and intense, with notes of
roasted berry, black olive, leather and a mildly-salty flavor.
It finishes meaty, lightly herbal and slightly salinic,
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012
with a firm feel. Drink now through 2014. Winesellers
Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $25
87
Viñas del Cenit 2009 Aleo Tempranillo
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Full
and smoky, with bacon, blackberry and tire rubber on
the nose. This is a bit grating in feel due to full tannins
and acids, with wild berry flavors, bitter oak, black plum
and darkness. Lengthy on the finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $16
YECLA
88
Barahonda 2008 Heredad Candela Monastrell
(Yecla). A bit scratchy, leathery and
herbal on the bouquet, but there’s also a stony character
and raspberry aromas. It feels crisp and a bit sheering,
with flavors of zesty red fruit, citrus and vanilla filling
in the gaps. The finish is long and lightly oaky. Ole Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $25
86
La Purísima 2009 Capa Rota Monastrell-
Syrah (Yecla). This has firm, ripe berry aromas
that are a little roasted and woody. Thehe palate
feels fresh, compact and bright, with earthy plum and
berry flavors that carry a minerally note and a hint of
leather. It’s ightly herbal and toasty on the finish. A
blend of 70% Monastrell with 30% Syrah. Marquee Selections.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
85
Castillo del Baròn 2009 Monastrell Monastrell
(Yecla). The earthy-smelling aromas
of red berry and plum are snappy and rustic. It feels
fresh, zesty and deep, with bright but basic tasting berry
flavors that transition to chocolate and herb before the
scratchy feeling finish. This is a good wine with moderate
depth and complexity. Europvin. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13
84
Nabuko 2009 Monastrell-Syrah (Yecla).
Roasted and rubbery on the nose, this has herb
and leaf accents. It feels thick, chunky and a bit syrupy,
with flavors of herb, mint and roasted blackberry. This
turns grittier on the finish, with bacon, hickory and rubbery
flavors. A blend of 50% Monastrell and 50% Syrah.
Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $13
OTHER RED WINES
91
Masies d’Avinyo 2007 Abadal Crianza
Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Pla de Bages).
Slightly rusty in color and ready to drink, this lovely
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot conveys a
lightly roasted bouquet, with cigar box, earth notes and
tons of berry fruit. It feels rich but lively, with sweet
black-fruit flavors, cocoa, mocha and licorice. This is
toasty and chocolaty on the finish. Drink now. Grapes of
Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $19
91
Rafael Cambra 2007 Dos Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot
(Valencia). Aromas of kirsch,
licorice, mineral and blackberry are strapping as lead
onto the balanced, flowing palate, with flavors of black
fruit, spice and chocolate. It’s easygoing as a whole, with
a smooth fade to the finish. Drink now through 2017.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
89
Marques de la Concordia 2007 Durius
Magister Tempranillo (Arribes del Duero).
The bouquet is dosed with resiny oak and vanilla
aromas, but there are herbal notes, leather and red
fruit scents as well. It feels good but slightly sticky,
with flavors of vanilla, coconut, tomato, red plum
and herb. This feels good on the finish, with tobacco,
vanilla and oak flavors. Drink now through 2015. MHW,
Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
86
Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Tempranillo
(Spain). Slightly earthy and rubbery smelling,
with a pinch of wet dog fur on the nose. It feels
full and hefty, with sweet blackberry flavors leading to
a round, sweet finish. This is solid and easy to like. Vicente
Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $8
85
Bodegas Concavins 2009 Proyecto Cu-
4tro (Catalunya). Rather unusual smelling,
with exotic spice and blue fruit aromas that aren’t
cut from the normal cloth. It feels rubbery, with black
plum, cumin and licorice flavors. Dark and fruity on the
finish, it has warm notes of spice covering every angle. A
blend of Garnacha, Monastrell, Samso and Syrah. Cabernet
Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $12
85
Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Mesache
Tinto Garnacha-Monastrell (Somontano).
Rugged and roasted on the bouquet, with rubbery
blackberry and freshly laid tar aromas. It feels big
and solid, but simple, with raspberry, strawberry and a
hint of green herb on the palate. The finish is mild tasting,
with a cocoa note. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
82
Albet I Noya 2009 Vinya Laia (Catalunya).
This is rubbery smelling, with distinct whiffs of
leather and grilled meat. Sheer, tangy and acidic, this
has a burnt, gritty flavor that blends with cherry and tart
plum. It’s minty and somewhat dilute on the finish. Opici
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $17
NORTHEAST ITALY
WHITE WINES
ALTO ADIGE
92
Cantina Terlano 2010 Quarz Sauvignon
(Alto Adige). This is a lovely, sophisticated
Sauvignon Blanc, with rich aromas of candied fruit,
apricot, honeysuckle and amazing aromatic intensity.
Thick, creamy and enduring on the palate, this beautiful
wine shows the structure for long cellar aging. Banville
& Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14% Price: $60