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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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TORO<br />

92<br />

Maurodos 2007 San Román (Toro). Bold<br />

as always, with a ton of cedar, graphite, blackberry,<br />

vanilla and coconut notes on the nose. This is<br />

huge, tough and ripe, with massive blackberry, café<br />

mocha and vanilla flavors. It finishes hard but with a<br />

cascade of sweet fruit, marshmallow, coconut cake, herb<br />

and vanilla. Needs a few more years to settle. Drink after<br />

2013. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />

92<br />

Teso La Monja 2009 Almirez (Toro). For<br />

full review see page 7.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $28<br />

91<br />

Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2009 Termes<br />

(Toro). Dark and opaque, with compact aromas<br />

of rubbery blackberry and controlled oak. Feels flush<br />

and grabby, with staunch tannins and creamy, toasty flavors<br />

accenting core blackberry and cassis. This seems<br />

more barrel-influenced the longer it airs out. A generous<br />

wine to drink now through 2015. Moët Hennessy<br />

USA. —M.S.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

Bodegas Farina 2006 Gran Dama de Toro<br />

(Toro). This is packed with oaky, masculine aromas<br />

of black fruit, bacon, moss and leather, but in the<br />

mouth it’s rough as nails, with heavy tannins propping<br />

up flavors of blackberry, baked plum, herb and smoke.<br />

It finishes earthy and toasty, with thick tannins and<br />

ruggedness. Drink now with beef. Specialty Cellars.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />

90<br />

Rejadorada 2009 Tinto Roble (Toro).<br />

Chunky and chocolaty on the nose, with aromas<br />

of raisins, blackberries and other black fruits. It feels<br />

easy and round, with balance and toasty flavors of blackberries<br />

and dark cherries. This finishes with a blend of<br />

coffee, rubber, mocha and vanilla flavors. An excellent<br />

wine; drink now through 2014. Casa Ventura Imports.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />

89<br />

Cermeño 2009 Tinta de Toro (Toro). From<br />

a good vintage like 2009, this modest Tinta de<br />

Toro has a lot to offer. It smells slightly rustic but full<br />

of fruit. The palate has a tannic but balanced feel, with<br />

dark, sweet flavors of cassis and blackberry. It’s peppery<br />

and lightly herbal on the finish. Beacon <strong>Wine</strong> Company.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />

89<br />

Cyan 2004 La Calera Tinta de Toro (Toro).<br />

Sweet on the nose but also a little green, with<br />

minty aromas of herb mixed with blueberry. It feels<br />

typically tannic and tough, with roasted blackberry and<br />

chocolate flavors. The finish is tannic, with spicy, chocolaty<br />

flavors that last for quite a while. Drink now. USA<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> West. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $27<br />

88<br />

Muruve 2009 Joven Tinto (Toro). For a<br />

60,000-case Toro, this is very good and well recommended.<br />

It smells full, leathery and slightly cheesy,<br />

with baked berry aromas. The palate is smooth, with<br />

minty, spicy, black fruit flavors. A hint of young oak rises<br />

up on the finish. United Cellars, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $10<br />

84<br />

Bodegas Farina 2005 Dama de Toro Crianza<br />

(Toro). Opens with tolerable green tobacco<br />

and green bean aromas interspersed with blackfruit<br />

notes and earth. It feels astringent and supertannic,<br />

with leathery, herbal berry flavors. Same on the finish,<br />

which is rough in feel and tastes herbal. Specialty<br />

Cellars. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $17<br />

83<br />

Taurus 2007 Roble (Toro). Soft and stewy<br />

up front, without a whole lot of vigor. It feels<br />

wide and hard, with abrasive tannins and strained flavors<br />

of herbal berry and leather. On the finish it’s earthy,<br />

tannic and warm, with a weedy note along with barrel<br />

spice. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $15<br />

UTIEL-REQUENA<br />

87<br />

Bodegas Iranzo 2007 Tarantas Crianza<br />

Made With Organic Grapes (Utiel-Requena).<br />

For full review see page 12. Best Buy.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $10<br />

85<br />

Corolilla 2007 Crianza Viñas Viejas Bobal<br />

(Utiel-Requena). Jammy and mildly baked<br />

on the bouquet, with cinnamon, matchstick and blueberry<br />

aromas. It’s full and tannic, with a mix of stewed<br />

fruit, brown sugar, spice and tomato making up the flavor<br />

profile. The woody and chunky finish has herb and<br />

tomato notes. Opici <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />

83<br />

Bodegas Iranzo 2006 Vertus Crianza<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Made with Organically Grown<br />

Grapes Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). Burnt and<br />

leathery smelling, with aromas of earth, rubber and<br />

baked fruit. It feels rough and grabby, with dry spice,<br />

cinnamon and roasted berry flavors. The finish is abrasive,<br />

with some warmth. Natural Merchants LLC.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $11<br />

82<br />

Vicente Gandia 2007 Hoya de Cadenas<br />

Reserva Privada Tempranillo-Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon (Utiel-Requena). This smells flat and<br />

stewy, with jammy sweetness and little punch. Conversely,<br />

it’s pointy on the palate, with tart, generic redberry<br />

flavors and warmth on the finish. A blend of Tempranillo<br />

and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vicente Gandia PLA.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $10<br />

VALDEPEÑAS<br />

83<br />

Viña Albali 2007 Reserva Tempranillo<br />

(Valdepeñas). Dusty red-fruit aromas come<br />

with earthy, leathery tones. It feels tight, drawn and<br />

resiny, with hard spice and oak flavor. There’s not much<br />

fruit to ponder, and the finish is dried out, with a woody<br />

note. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $13<br />

83<br />

Viña Albali 2006 Gran Reserva Tempranillo<br />

(Valdepeñas). This is cedary and dry<br />

smelling, with more spice than fruit aromas. It feels<br />

crisp, tight and acidic, with flavors of raspberry, red<br />

plum and forced spice coming from the heavy oak. Dry,<br />

oaky and spicy on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $15<br />

82<br />

Marques de Moral 2007 Crianza Tempranillo<br />

(Valdepeñas). Stemmy, earthy aromas<br />

of cherry and hard spice lead to a rough palate with hard<br />

cherry and berry flavors. It blackens up on a pounding<br />

finish; this is edgy and rough stuff. Kysela Père et Fils.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $12<br />

82<br />

Viña Albali 2007 Crianza Tempranillo<br />

(Valdepeñas). Mild raspberry and tomato<br />

aromas precede a grabby-feeling wine with sandpaper<br />

tannins and flavors of medicinal plum and tomato. It<br />

comes across loud but raw and unrefined. Luneau USA<br />

Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $10<br />

CASTILLA<br />

88<br />

Bodega Los Aljibes 2005 Aljibes (Vino de<br />

la Tierra de Castilla). This opens with sweet,<br />

compact aromas of raisin and spice. It feels more perky<br />

and crisp in the mouth, with a slight acidic cut and flavors<br />

of roasted berry, herb and chocolate. The finish is<br />

lightly herbal and minty, with peppery spice and plenty<br />

of length. A classic Bordeaux blend of roughly one-third<br />

each of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Casa<br />

Ventura Imports. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />

88<br />

Viñas del Cenit 2009 Venta Mazzaron<br />

Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).<br />

Smoky, dark and robust, with blackberry and black<br />

coffee on the bouquet. It’s full, textured, resiny and tannic<br />

on the palate, with blocky blackberry, leather and<br />

a pinch of saltiness. Dry, dense and oaky late, this is<br />

powerful overall. Aviva Vino. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />

87<br />

Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made<br />

with Organic Grapes Tempranillo (Vino<br />

de la Tierra de Castilla). Peppy, clean black-fruit<br />

aromas come with a touch of leather. It feels full and<br />

juicy, with a firm texture and bright, lightly toasted flavors<br />

of plum and berry. This is an uncomplicated wine,<br />

the perfect quaffer for the price. Terroir <strong>Wine</strong> Cellars.<br />

Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />

86<br />

Bodega Los Aljibes 2006 Aljibes Cabernet<br />

Franc (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).<br />

This smells gritty and herbal on first take, with roasted,<br />

leafy aromas. The herb and red fruit flavors are a bit<br />

spotty, remaining herbal and mildly green on the finish,<br />

with snappy acidity. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $28<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 43

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