BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

SANGIOVESE
88
Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Sangiovese
(Columbia Valley). Light and tight
fruit flavors of pretty berry open slowly after plenty of
breathing time. The wine is nicely structured, balanced
with the addition of 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12%
Malbec—the only drawback is the almost complete lack
of aroma. Even with extended airing, the fruit comes
up but the nose stays closed, giving the impression of a
shortened finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28
87
Zerba Cellars 2008 Sangiovese (Walla
Walla Valley). Tart and lively, this medium-bodied
Sangiovese was co-fermented with small
amounts of Syrah and Viognier. The Viognier contributes
scents of citrus and stone fruit, which add some
welcome complexity. —P.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $30
86
Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
(Columbia Valley). The reserve
seems to have spent more time in barrel, bearing a
chocolatey finish, but otherwise it is quite similar to the
Marryhill’s regular Sangiovese. Slightly higher alcohol
makes for a bit more concentration of the strawberry
fruit, but the herbal, peppery bite is still there in the
finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $20
85
Maryhill 2009 Sangiovese (Columbia Valley).
Light fruit suggests strawberries with a
slightly green edge. The tannins are still a bit rough and
tumble, with a peppery kick. —P.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $17
SYRAH
94 Efeste- 2009 Eléni Syrah (Yakima Valley).
For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.9% Price: $45
93
Eight Bells 2009 Syrah (Yakima Valley).
The three partners in this new venture have decades
of winemaking experience among them, and it
shows. With 15% Grenache blended in, the result is a
ripe, lightly funky, spicy rendition of Syrah that nicely
marries the earthiness to racy wild-berry flavors and a
peppery finish. Great length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $25
93
Sparkman 2009 Ruckus Syrah (Red
Mountain). Almost impenetrably dark, this
juicy Syrah includes 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The
Red Mountain fruit brings a blast of boysenberry and
black cherry fruit, heightened with citrusy acidity. It’s an
expression of pure fruit power, with barrel notes of
black coffee and tannins that taste of wet rock. This is a
wine that should have a good decade of life ahead. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $NA
93
Syncline 2010 McKinley Springs Vineyard
Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills).
This pure, supple, fruit-laden Syrah is loaded with
wild blackberry fruit, and detailed veins of licorice,
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012
coffee, and iron filings. The wine’s excellent length
and polished tannins showcase exceptional handling of
superb fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
91 Efeste- 2009 Jolie Bouche Syrah (Yakima
Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.9% Price: $39
91
Tertulia Cellars 2008 Les Collines Vineyard
Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A fine effort,
with an inviting swirl of earthy components. Citrus,
spice, earth, compost, coffee grounds and cinnamon
comprise this detailed, aromatic wine. It sits squarely in
the classic mold of the better Walla Walla Syrahs. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
91
Watermill 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).
Smooth and chocolaty, this palate-coating
Syrah brings ripe black-cherry flavors into a lush and
compelling core. Just a hint of leather does not detract
from the powerful fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $24
90
Dumas Station 2009 Estate Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). Mellow and complex, this is a
highly approachable wine, offering butter-soft tannins,
ripe fruits, and interesting highlights of grain, earth and
caramel. A fine expression of the unique estate terroir.
—P.G.
abv: 15.4% Price: $30
90 Efeste- 2009 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Mountain).
For full review see page 9. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9% Price: $38
90
Hogue 2009 Genesis Syrah (Columbia
Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.9% Price: $16
90
Plumb Cellars 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
Estate grown, this 100% Syrah has excellent
concentration and round, mouthfilling fruit flavors.
Cherries and plums are highlighted with baking spices
and a finishing wash of rich mocha. Very tasty, forward,
and drinking at its best right now. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $24
90
Sparkman 2009 Darkness Syrah (Columbia
Valley). Ripe fruit flavors of berry and
plum are enveloped in spice-cake highlights. The citrusinfused
acids bring in a hint of grapefruit and lemon.
This is a complex wine, with fascinating components,
and beginning to pull itself together. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $56
88
AntoLin Cellars 2009 Syrah (Yakima Valley).
A clean, varietal nose introduces this complex
Yakima Valley Syrah. Mixed notes of fennel, anise,
herb and coffee wrap around tight, tangy red fruits. The
balance and definition are excellent; the finish has just a
hint of stem. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $24
88
Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard
Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Ultraripe black
fruits—berries and cherries, along with raisins—reflect
the high alcohol. Even so, the wine carries an impression
of almost sugary sweetness, as if still not fermented
completely dry. Spice cake and plum pudding, with heat
on the finish, mark this as extreme by previous Fielding
Hills standards. Drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 16.2% Price: $38
87
Camaraderie 2009 Clifton Vineyard Syrah
(Wahluke Slope). Medium bodied, this
sharply defined wine brings in plenty of notes of herb,
root and earth around its light berry fruit. It captures
the defining flavors of Wahluke Slope Syrah in a somewhat
muted style, reflecting the abbreviated growing
season. —P.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $28
87
Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). Given plenty of breathing
time and careful consideration, this barrel-aged Syrah
still seemed soaked in vanilla. The oaky flavors overpowered
the pretty fruit, even with the addition of 21%
Grenache. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
87
Syzygy 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).
This vintage of Syzygy Syrah lacks the complexity
of past versions, with fruit that is a bit on the thin side,
or perhaps just hidden by alcohol and oak. The wine
shows powerful vanilla and tobacco aromas, and they
carry through on the palate, masking the fruit. —P.G.
abv: 15.2% Price: $33
86
Frenchman’s Gulch 2008 Syrah (Washington).
Sourced from the excellent Lewis
Vineyard, this toasty, chewy Syrah displays black cherry
fruit against a strong background of vanilla. At first it
seems tart to the point of being almost sour, but as it
breathes, the oak mutes some of the acid and balances
it out. —P.G.
abv: 13.7% Price: $25
86
Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah
(Columbia Valley). Forward and pleasant,
with a balanced attack of berry and peppery herb, this
saw 20 months in one-fifth new French oak. The resulting
toasty, lightly-chocolaty finish is pleasing, though it
tends to override the subtle fruit. Drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $25
86
Robert Ramsay 2009 McKinley Springs
Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills).
Strong and aggressive, this dark and almost syrupy Syrah
crosses the line from high-toned to volatile. The California-style,
grapey fruit flavors of plum and blueberry
should warrant a higher score, but for some tasters the
volatility will be too much. —P.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
84
Maryhill 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
This is a typical, standard style of Syrah, that
tastes strongly of vanilla rather than of the actual grape.
The fruit is muted, but the vanilla and tobacco flavors
stand out. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $17
83
Castle Rock 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
Quite tannic and herbal, this is no match