Austria's 1999 vintage - Riesling Report

Riesling Report 

An online magazine for Riesling fanatics 

Austria’s 1999 vintage 

A first look at yet another brilliant year in Danube-land 

JULY/AUGUST 2000 

IN THIS ISSUE: 

Along the Danube: 

Wachau, Kremstal & Kamptal 

Estate Reviews: 

Rudi Pichler 

Erich Salomon 

Riesling Cuisine 

www.rieslingreport.com

CONTENTS 

BOOK REVIEW Austria: New Wines from the Old World 3 

RIESLING NEWS First “Eroica” released 4 

ON THE COVER The wines of Austria 5 

The 1999 vintage: Wachau, Kremstal & Kamptal 6 

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA: Wachau 7 

Tasting Notes 10 

ESTATE REVIEW Rudi Pichler (Wachau) 18 


REGIONS OF AUSTRIA: Kremstal & Kamptal 21 


ESTATE REVIEW Erich Salomon (Kremstal) 30 


RIESLING CUISINE The Austrian/Italian connection 34 

THE LAST PAGE Rating the wines | Next Issue 36 

Please see our special supplements for a report on the Neusiedlersee 

and more tasting notes from the 1998 vintage. 

You’ll find them in the Library of the Members Only area on our Web site. 

Riesling Report navigation tips 

• The table of contents is linked. Click on a title and away you go. 

• Web sites mentioned in this publication are linked to their Internet 

addresses. If you click on one, your default browser will be activated. 

Pass it on 

We encourage you to share our magazine with your wine-loving friends. 

All we ask is that you then encourage them to support the Riesling cause 

and subscribe. Hey, it’s only 24 bucks! 

Riesling Report is published electronically six times a year. A one-year 

subscription is currently being offered at the special introductory rate of 

just $24. To subscribe, and for more information, please visit the Riesling 

Report Web site: www.rieslingreport.com 

To submit pertinent Riesling information or to find out about advertising 

in the magazine or on the Web site, please contact Kirk Wille at: 

Riesling Report 

9910 SW Quail Post Rd. 

Portland, Oregon 97219 USA 

Telephone (503) 244-2573 Fax (503) 244-9103 

kirk@rieslingreport.com 

Dive in to Austria 

There isn’t a winegrowing region 

anywhere in the world right now 

that is as exciting as Austria. Home 

to complex, ageworthy, dry Rieslings, 

powerfully rich Pinot blancs 

and that hippest of grape varietals, 

Grüner Veltliner, Austria is a treasure 

trove of vinous delights. If 

you’re looking for dry, unoaked 

wines that speak of their origins 

and pair brilliantly with food, this 

is the place – but I must warn you, 

if you haven’t already started filling 

your cellar with Singerriedel, Heiligenstein, 

Hund and the like, don’t 

tarry, you’re already at the back of a 

long and impatient line. 

In this issue, we’ll take you 

through the glories of the 1999 

vintage in Austria, a year that 

produced unbelievably magnificent 

wines which rival any (and I truly 

mean any) in the world for their 

complexity, finesse and expression 

of site. If you’re already a fan of 

Austrian wines, you’ll want to dive 

glass-first into these beauties; if 

these are your first, this is a 

tremendous vintage to provide an 

introduction. Read on, open a 

bottle of Grüner Veltliner, let yourself 

be seduced by the rapture that 

is Austrian wine. 

—Peter Liem, tasting director 

www.RieslingReport.com 2 

© July/August 2000

BOOK REVIEW by Peter Liem 

Austrian wine’s lone ranger 

THERE IS, SADLY, A DEARTH OF PRINTED MATERIAL ON AUSTRIAN 

wines available in English. Giles MacDonogh comes to the rescue with a 

comprehensive and authoritative guide to the producers and winegrowing 

regions of this dynamic country. A sequel to his previous book, The Wine 

and Food of Austria, this is a product of MacDonogh’s continued research 

and devotion to Austria and its wines. 

The book is organized by geography, with the three broad areas of 

Niederösterreich, Burgenland, and Steiermark further divided into subregions 

which are detailed village by village. In each section, an impressive 

number of growers are listed, with accompanying text that nicely 

balances factual information with opinionated observations and sometimes 

short tasting descriptions of various wines. Addresses and telephone 

numbers are included for each producer. Also, there are small 

Travel Information sections scattered throughout the book which list a 

few important hotels, wine stores and high-profile restaurants, as well as 

major tourist attractions. 

Overall, this is an informative and well-researched book. MacDonogh 

is very passionate about Austrian wines and has spent an enviable amount 

of time in the wine regions. The text is as entertaining to read at home in 

an armchair as it is useful when on the wine route in Austria. My only 

complaint about the book is that aside from the extremely general, 

broadly regional maps tucked inside the covers, there is an utter lack of 

cartography in the entire book. It may be simple enough to locate one’s 

destinations once in the region, but it seems a grave oversight when a 

book that proclaims itself ‘A Traveller’s Guide’ fails to include more 

detailed maps of particular areas, let alone individual villages or important 

vineyards. There are, incidentally, plenty of beautiful photographs, 

but it seems that the need for these is obviated if you’re actually there 

when you use this book! 

Nevertheless, this book is a useful source of information and remains 

the most intriguing and comprehensive guide to Austrian wines published 

in English so far, although I expect some competition as Austrian wines 

are pushed further into the limelight. I look forward to seeing further writings 

on the subject by Mr. MacDonogh, and so, quite frankly, should you. 

Austria: New Wines from 

the Old World 

by Giles MacDonogh 

Österreichischer Agrarverlag 

Paperback 230 pp. 

First Edition 1997 


© July/August 2000

RIESLING NEWS by Kirk Wille 

First “Eroica” released 

Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen produce 

the first U.S./German joint venture Riesling 

THE FIRST WINE FROM THE JOINT VENTURE between German wine 

maker Ernst Loosen and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle has 

been released. The 1999 Eroica is a limited-production dry Riesling made 

from Columbia Valley grapes. It takes its name from the title of 

Beethoven’s Third Symphony. Only 2,400 cases were made. 

Eroica is the result of the first year of collaboration between Loosen 

and Chateau Ste. Michelle’s white-wine maker, Erik Olsen, and builds on 

the Riesling enhancement work that Chateau Ste. Michelle has been doing 

for the past three years. For the Eroica project, yields were lowered and 

new vineyard management techniques were introduced to give the grapes 

maximum ripeness and complexity of flavor. 

In the cellar, whole-berry pressing was done to preserve freshness. 

Then many different variations in vinification were tried, including a 

range of different yeasts, minimal filtering, and longer, cooler fermentations. 

The final wine is a blend of the best results from this matrix of 

experiments. Eroica shows very ripe, peachy fruit, with good intensity on 

the palate. While it lacks the minerality of a German Riesling, firm acid 

grip keeps Eroica lively and elegant. 

“The idea is not to create a wine that you can say is as good as, or better 

than, a wine from Germany or Alsace,” says Loosen. “It’s to make the best 

Riesling that Washington can produce.” Thus the goal of the Eroica project 

is to discover and develop the distinctive Washington Riesling style. So the 

experiments in the vineyard continue. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s team of viticulturists 

is evaluating different irrigation methods, vine-training systems, 

canopy management and pruning practices. “I am very encouraged,” says 

Ernst Loosen. “If it is possible to make a wine this good our first year, I 

think there is enormous potential here to produce a world-class Riesling 

that expresses very clearly the unique character of Washington.” 

Harvest procedures are also being studied. “Hand harvesting is the key 

to making top-quality wine,” Loosen says. Hand harvesting is all but 

unheard of in the mega-vineyards of Eastern Washington, but a small 

amount of hand picking was done in 1999 for a berry-select late-harvest 

dessert wine that the joint venture produced. It remains to be seen if 

Chateau Ste. Michelle’s corporate leaders believe the market will support 

the cost of producing a top-quality, hand-harvested Riesling. 

Loosen is optimistic. “Everyone involved in the project is very enthusiastic,” 

says Loosen. “So I think if a Riesling Renaissance is really going to 

happen around the world (and I see it happening already in places like 

Australia), we have everything we need to be a big part of it.” 

Eroica will have an average retail price of $20. 

Eroica sports a snazzy, decidedly “New 

World” label designed by the marketing 

folks at Chateau Ste. Michelle. 


© July/August 2000

ON THE COVER by Peter Liem 

The electrifying wines of Austria 

FOR MOST PEOPLE LIVING OUTSIDE OF AUSTRIA, 

wine is not the first thing that comes to mind when they 

think of that country. The Sound of Music, perhaps. 

Skiing. Mozart. Joerg Haider. Well, it’s a pity for them, 

because they’re missing out. Austria is one of the most 

exciting winegrowing regions in the world, and is being 

recognized as such by more and more people every day. 

Wine grows all over the eastern portion of Austria, 

but for Riesling devotees, it is the area known as 

Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) that is of prime interest, 

and specifically the regions of the Wachau, the 

Kremstal and Kamptal valleys. Here, Riesling not only 

thrives but excels, in a style like no other. Generally 

vinified dry, it can have body and richness comparable 

to the wines of Alsace, yet it retains a clarity, balance 

and racy delicacy reminiscent of its best German coun- The Danube River is the backbone of Austria’s best Riesling-producterparts. 

In the mineral-rich soils of these areas, ing areas, here flowing at a lively pace through the Wachau. 

Riesling achieves a vivid and detailed expression 

uncommon to all but the very finest wines of the world. 

Perhaps Austria’s greatest contributions to the wine world, however, 

are the uniquely intriguing wines made from the Grüner Veltliner grape. 

Although it appears elsewhere in Central and Eastern Europe, Grüner 

Veltliner is nowhere planted as widely as in Austria, and it is most notable 

in the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal for making truly world-class wines. 

There is much that is compelling about this exciting varietal. The flavors 

“Austrian wine is starting to 

that it delivers are often like no other wines in the world, ranging from 

lentils to arugula, tangerine to red plum, sautéed green beans to straw- happen. If it ain’t happnin’ in 

berries, violets to white pepper. It is perhaps the most versatile food your town you’d best move to 

companion of all the grapes, seemingly able to stand up to any flavors, no 

another town.” 

matter how aggressive or pungent. And it has a remarkable longevity, 

developing in nuance and complexity long after most red wines have had 

Terry Theise, American importer 

their obituaries written. “All things being equal, Veltliner lasts longer than 

Riesling,” claims Terry Theise, and we all know that Riesling will live 

longer than YOU. So there you go. 

With the spectacular 1999 vintage coming onto the market, there is no 

better time to acquaint yourself with these wines. Austrian wines have 

taken the wine world by storm, appearing on the lists of the finest restaurants 

and retailers around the world. However, the production of these 

wines is relatively tiny, and with the current cult following, many of them 

already sell out very rapidly. Take advantage of the current availability of 

these brilliant wines, because they will not last, and especially not at the 

current prices. 

Please see our special supplement for a report on the Neusiedlersee, 

available for download in the Library of the Riesling Report Web site. 


© July/August 2000

ON THE COVER | Austria 

1999: A high-resolution vintage 

AFTER TRIUMPHING OVER THE 

difficulties of the 1998 harvest, 

growers in 1999 were rewarded 

with an excellent vintage, quite 

possibly the best of the decade. The 

spring and summer were very 

warm, promoting rapid, healthy 

ripening. At harvest time there was 

frequent rain but while it delayed 

picking, it generally did not cause 

any rot, noble or otherwise. 

At the Undhof, harvest took 

eight weeks to complete due to the 

interruptions from the wet weather, 

instead of the usual four or five, and 

they did not finish until the 17th of 

November. F.X. Pichler, who 

normally completes the harvest by 

the end of November, was still picking selected parcels in the middle of 

December. However, the quality was uniformly high, and often superb. The 

danger in 1999, as in many warm years, was overcropping. Quality could 

only result “if you reduced yields and if you took your time waiting until 

November,” emphasized Rudi Pichler. 

Overall, growers were extremely pleased. “I think that ’99 is a little bit 

like ’97 in its character,” said Martin Nigl. “There were very ripe grapes, 

with a lot of extract and without botrytis, so I think the character of the 

grapes really comes out. It’s better for the dry wines to have no botrytis, 

because the terroir is expressed better.” Both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling 

fared very well, with most growers hardly preferring one over the other. 

The quality that struck me the most while tasting ’99 Riesling and 

Grüner Veltliner in Austria was an incredibly detailed, tight-grained 

purity, like a thousand more dots-per-inch than usual. Unlike many of the 

’98s, which were broadly muscular, sometimes botrytized and often high 

in alcohol, the ’99s are finely racy and cleanly refreshing, with an ethereal 

delicacy that can obscure at first glance the complex intensity and powerful 

depth lurking within these wines. They remind me a lot of the ’97s at 

the same stage, perhaps with even a little bit more power overall. 

If ’98 was a vintage of the winemaker, with its wild challenges and 

atypical wines, ’99 is a vintage of terroir, where nuances of site are 

detailed with astonishingly crystalline clarity. Despite many growers’ 

comments about the dangers of overcropping, I did not receive the slightest 

impression of diluteness of any sort amongst the wines that I tasted, 

nor even a general softness that can be a mark of warm vintages. These 

wines are taut, lithe, defined. They have the bodies that most people envy. 

Their ravishing beauty will sorely test your willpower. 

The Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal form the holy trinity of Austrian wine districts for Riesling 

and Grüner Veltliner. They are nearly contiguous vineyard areas on the Danube and two of 

its tributaries, the Krems and the Kamp. 

“There were very ripe grapes, 

with a lot of extract and 

without botrytis, so I think the 

character of the grapes really 

comes out.” 

— Martin Nigl 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA by Peter Liem 

The Wachau 

AUSTRIA’S MOST FAMOUS WINEGROWING REGION, 

the rugged and picturesque Wachau is home to some of 

the most exciting wines in Europe. Grüner Veltliner 

accounts for over half of the plantings here, with 

Riesling a distant second. Indeed, Riesling has only 

been widely planted here since the middle of the twentieth 

century, but has rapidly made itself at home, 

creating scintillating wines in a unique and richly 

compelling style. 

The Wachau covers a 33-kilometer strip of land 

along the Danube, about 65 kilometers west of Vienna. 

The best wines come from steep, rocky terraces carved 

into the hillsides along the river between the towns of 

Mautern, near the Kremstal, and Spitz, to the southwest. 

Here are found vineyards to rival the greatest in 

Europe, and growers whose names resonate in the 

winelover’s ear like music: Pichler, Hirtzberger and 

Nikolaihof, to name just a few. 

The region has prided itself on strict standards of 

quality, which have allowed it to flourish even while 

other areas in Austria suffered. Led by visionaries such 

as Josef Jamek, Franz Prager, Franz Hirtzberger Sr. 

and Wilhelm Schwengler, the Wachau created for itself 

a distinct image and set of standards, which eventually 

led to the formation in 1983 of a growers association 

called Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus. 

Top Vineyards of the Wachau 

Loiben and Dürnstein 

Loiben is the first town one arrives at upon entering the Wachau from the 

Kremstal, to the east. It is divided into Unter- and Ober- (lower and 

upper) Loiben, which share vineyards with the picturesque, heavilytouristed 

Dürnstein to the west. At this end of the Wachau, the vineyards 

are protected by a sharp bend in the river and thus enjoy a warm microclimate, 

producing richly ripe and heady wines. 

Steinertal 

Tucked between the brooding mass of Loibenberg and the rocky protuberance of 

Pfaffenberg in the neighboring Kremstal, Steinertal is turned a little to the southeast 

and is slightly cooler than Loibenberg. A fairly dry site, it emphasizes a 

strongly minerally intensity and a stern, almost austere structure. Alzinger and 

F.X. Pichler are the superstars here. 

The rugged valley of the Danube River as it makes its way through 

Austria’s Wachau region. Here looking down from the precipitous 

vantage point of the Dürnstein castle ruins, where Richard Coeur de 

Lion was held captive in the 12th century. 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA | Wachau 

Loibenberg 

This high, south-facing slope has been cultivated for nearly six hundred years. The 

soils vary, ranging from gneiss and weathered primary rock which favor Riesling, 

to the loess and deeper loam that Grüner Veltliner thrives in. Both varietals are 

capable of producing rich, concentrated wines in this extremely warm site. F.X. 

Pichler makes thunderously profound wines here from both Grüner Veltliner and 

Riesling (the legendary Riesling ‘Unendlich’ made in 1998 is pure Loibenberg); 

other top growers include Emmerich Knoll, Leo Alzinger and the Freie Weingartner 

Wachau. 

Schütt 

As opposed to Loibenberg, which is a mixture of rock and loam, Schütt is pure 

primary rock. It lies a little lower on the slope and is exposed to cold winds, which 

are said to make the flavors more exotic, especially in years with a later harvest. 

The top grower here is Emmerich Knoll, who makes penetrating, tightly-structured 

Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. Franz Schmidl also produces Grüner Veltliner 

here. 

Kellerberg 

One of Austria’s greatest vineyards, Kellerberg rises majestically above the ‘Kellerschlössel’ 

of the Freie Weingärtner Wachau. The mineral-rich rock face is turned 

to the southeast, unlike its neighboring vineyards in Loiben, and the slightly cooler 

exposure can result in better balance, especially in very hot years. F.X. Pichler and 

Emmerich Knoll make intensely profound wines from the Kellerberg that stand 

among the greatest wines of the world. Franz Schmidl grows Riesling here, and the 

Freie Weingärtner Wachau makes excellent Riesling and Grüner Veltliner as well. 

The white church that gives the village of 

Weissenkirchen its name. 

Weissenkirchen 

The pretty town of Weissenkirchen is home to some of 

Austria’s most renowned sites, arrayed in a parade of 

vinous splendor on the rocky slopes above the town. 

Klaus 

The famous Ried Klaus is inextricably linked with Josef 

Jamek, though Prager also has Riesling vines here. An extension 

of the eastern slope of Achleiten, its steeply terraced 

slopes produce deeply fragrant, floral wines that seem to 

combine great concentration with a crystalline clarity. 

Jamek’s 1999 release represents the fortieth year of their 

production in Ried Klaus, commemorated by a special label. 

Achleiten 

Terraced and cultivated since the twelfth century of the 

common era, Achleiten is one of the most renowned vineyards 

in all of Austria. It is extremely steep and stony, producing 

intensely minerally wines with tightly-wound structure 

and great finesse. Superb producers here include Rudi Pichler, 

Prager, Josef Jamek and the Freie Weingärtner Wachau. 

The legendary Klaus vineyard, made famous by Josef Jamek. 

Steinriegl 

Steinriegl sits in a cleft above the Ritzlingbach, a stream which many would like to 

connect with a similar-sounding grape variety. Its south-southeastern exposure 

insures tremendous ripeness, while its position high on the rocky, weathered 

slopes gives the wines a characteristic mineral spiciness. Prager has four and a half 

hectares in this excellent site, producing Grüner Veltliner from old vines and 

richly textured, stonily-perfumed Riesling. 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA | Wachau 

Wösendorf 

Hochrain 

This south-facing vineyard at the base 

of the slope lies on a mixture of gneiss 

and loess, and is well-suited to Grüner 

Veltliner. The warmth of the site makes 

for broadly powerful wines with plenty 

of aroma and richness. Rudi Pichler 

makes complex and classy Veltliner 

here from old vines, and the Freie 

Weingärtner Wachau has some holdings 

here. 

Spitz 

The town of Spitz lies at the western 

end of the Wachau, where the 

slopes are less sheltered from the 

winds of the river valley. Consequently, 

the wines are ‘cooler’ than 

those from Dürnstein or Loiben on 

the other end, generally lighter in 

body but emphasizing finesse and a 

fragrant elegance. 

Singerriedel 

This is one of the most famous vineyards 

in Austria, due to the stunning 

Rieslings produced from this site by 

Franz Hirtzberger. A warm, sheltered 

site, it produces concentrated ripeness The Honivogel section of the famous Singerriedel vineyard in the town of Spitz. 

and a sleekly racy, tightly-wound 

elegance. A subsection of the vineyard 

on deeper soils towards the bottom of the slope is called Honivogl, and 

Hirtzberger produces a Grüner Veltliner from here that is surely one of the greatest 

white wines of the world. The Freie Weingärtner Wachau also makes very 

expressive Riesling from Singerriedel. 

Burgberg (Tausendeimerberg) 

Rising from the center of the town of Spitz is an imposing, freestanding hill, whose 

southeast face contains the famous vineyard of Burgberg, better known as 

Tausendeimerberg (‘thousand-bucket mountain’), as that is the supposed sum of 

the harvest there. The Rieslings produced here are delicately fragrant and taut, 

due in large part to the site’s exposed and unprotected surface. The most 

renowned producers here are the Freie Weingärtner Wachau and Karl Lagler. 


© July/August 2000

TASTING NOTES by Peter Liem 

Wachau 1999 

The following recommended wines were tasted in Austria in April of 

2000. As always, scores are given in ranges for wines not yet bottled. For 

our readers in the United States, unfortunately not all of these wines may 

be available in our country – check with your local retailer. 

Dinstlgut Loiben, Unterloiben 

A small co-operative with holdings in some top vineyards, the Dinstlgut 

Loiben has been steadily improving over the last few years under the 

direction of Walter Kutscher. The Rieslings from ’99 are much cleaner and 

finely-tuned than their counterparts from ’98, and are even better than 

the impressive ’97s. The wines offer great value at all levels. 

Riesling Loibenberg 1999 

Delicately floral Bartlett pear and lime flavors, nicely fragrant and ripe. Pleasantly 

refreshing, with sneaky length and stony perfume on the finish. 87 

Riesling Pfaffenberg 1999 

Apple and strawberry complexity, with a touch more girth than the Loibenberg. 

Nicely textured and aromatic, and shows a good balance of acidity. 87 

Riesling Spätlese Loibenberg ‘L’ 1999 

Smoothly slatey and pure, quite stylish. Floral aromas of lime, melon, tangerine 

and lemon sorbet, well-balanced, with a bit of residual sugar expanding the flavors 

and firm acidity holding it together well. 88 

Freie Weingärtner Wachau, Dürnstein 

One of the most famous co-operatives in the world, the 778-member Freie 

Weingärtner Wachau is also one of the top producers in the Wachau, able 

to draw on their extensive resources and fine vineyard holdings to create 

wines of breed and distinction. Over half of the production here is Grüner 

Veltliner, with about 15% Riesling and the rest assorted red and white 

varietals. The dynamic management team of Fritz Miesbauer and Willi 

Klinger is devoted to pursuing a high level of quality and is justifiably 

proud of its achievements, as the single-vineyard Smaragd wines can 

stand alongside any from this region. 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Loibenberg 1999 

Nicely built, roundly clean flavors of apple skins and peapods. Good presence, if a 

bit one-dimensional. 85 

Riesling Federspiel Terrassen Thal Wachau 1999 

Slatey, fragrant perfume, nearly Mosel-like aromas. Crisp and light-bodied in the 

mouth, with a touch of orange peel. Cleanly refreshing. 85 

Riesling Federspiel Terrasen Spitz 1999 

Slightly meaty aromas and a smoky stoniness. Citrusy and crisply textured. 86 

Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 1999 

Taut and finely-wrought, with a lot of intensity and plenty of breed. Smoky stoniness 

supports the elegantly ripe fruit, finishing long and aromatic. 91 

A brief glossary 

Alte Reben 

Old vines 

Edelfäule 

Botrytis, or noble rot 

Halbsüss (Lieblich) 

A semi-sweet wine containing 

12-45 g/l of residual sugar. 

Halbtrocken: A semi-sweet wine 

containing 9-12 g/l of residual 

sugar. 

Heurige (Buschenschank) 

A small restaurant or tavern 

operated by a winegrower 

where they sell their wines. 

KMW 

(Klosterneuberger Mostwaage) 

A measure of must-weight used 

in Austria. One degree KMW is 

roughly equal to 5˚ Oechsle. 

Prädikatswein 

A wine labeled as Spätlese or 

higher 

Ried 

Vineyard 

Süss 

Sweet. A wine containing residual 

sugar of over 45 g/l. 

Trocken 

Dry. A wine containing less than 

9 g/l of residual sugar. 

Urgestein 

Primary rock, including elements 

of gneiss, mica, slate and granite 

Weinbau 

Wine grower 

Weinbaugebiet 

Wine district 

Weingut 

Winery 


© July/August 2000

TASTING NOTES | Wachau 1999 

Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 1999 

Nicely knit, showing the breed of the site, much more open 

and accessible than Rudi Pichler’s example, which is from the 

other side of the slope. Stony presence and good balance, 

finishing with a twist of lime. Fragrant and persistent intensity. 

92 

Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 1999 

Intensely minerally and concentrated, with lovely focus and 

clarity. Knife-like aromas of white peach and fresh pears, 

finely delineated, with real breed. Expansive, grand cru 

finish, long and subtly aromatic, with a fine dimension. 93 

I also tasted a Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese from 

1999 which was harmonious and glossily promising in 

its richly unctuous apricot and confectionary pear decadence, 

but it was impossible to assess it qualitatively in 

its infantile state. 

Franz Hirtzberger, Spitz 

The name Hirtzberger is one of the most hallowed and renowned of the 

Wachau, and rightly so, considering their exquisite wines from sites such 

as Singerriedel and Honivogl. These are some of the most sought-after 

wines in Austria, and the exquisite range of ’99s can only add to 

Hirtzberger’s legendary reputation. 

Grüner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten 1999 

Hirtzberger makes a Steinfeder from this vineyard every year, with the philosophy 

that “it is better to have a good Steinfeder than a slimmer Federspiel.” Aromas of 

lentil, cress, white pepper and lime, lovely presence and depth with a fragrant 

spiciness. Superbly built, very nicely delineated with lots of character. Deliciously 

juicy and alluring. 89 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor 1999 

Positively lovely nose of red plum, maraschino cherry and smoky lentils, ripe and 

poignantly focused, with beautiful depth. Pure and cleanly concentrated in the 

mouth, lingering in a cloud of perfume. 90 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor 1999 

Displays the same focus and clarity as the Federspiel, but amplified to a greater 

level of intensity. Succulently peachy core of concentrated fruit, expanding in 

smokily resonating complexity and balancing its mass perfectly. Breathtaking. 93 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint 1999 

This vineyard next to Rotes Tor had not been producing for forty or fifty years, but 

Hirtzberger replanted it five years ago. There was a very small harvest in 1998, 

with 1999 representing “the first real vintage.” Smoky minerality like Rotes Tor, 

but broader and girthier, adding spicy pepper, lentil and sage aromas. Darkly 

toned and finely knit, with boldly rich dimension building to a grand cru finish, 

long, finely nuanced, with capacious presence. If it’s already this intense now, 

what happens when the vines mature? 93(+?) 

Freie Weingärtner’s baroque Kellerschlössel with the Kellerberg vineyard 

of Dürnstein rising behind it. 


© July/August 2000


Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl 1999 

Hirtzberger has produced Smaragd-level wines from this magnificent vineyard, 

considered by many to be the top grand cru for Grüner Veltliner in the Wachau, 

every year for the last fifteen years. Absolutely wonderful breed and class on the 

nose, richly concentrated yet three-dimensional in its spicy, peppery, nuanced 

complexity. Gloriously pure in the mouth, expanding with fragrant, elegant grace, 

subtly shifting in a panoply of minerals, flowers and summer fruits that penetrate 

very deeply on the palate, continuing through a long, regal finish. 95(+?) 

Weissburgunder Smaragd Steinborz 1999 

Floral and slightly biscuity, cleanly built with nice ripeness. Pear, apple-blossom 

and a hint of nectarine, stylish and discreetly aromatic. 89 

Chardonnay Smaragd 1999 

Nicely fruity depth and aroma. Fresh tangerine and Asian pear flavors sparkle in 

cleanly fresh exuberance, finishing with floral persistence and plenty of fragrance. 

Very charming – I wish more people would go down this path rather than overburdening 

their wines with toasty new wood. 89 

Grauburgunder Smaragd Pluris 1999 

Slightly lemony aromas and a concentrated core of round, appley depth. Very 

balanced and complete, with plenty of structure and grip. 88 

Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen 1999 

This comes from various smaller plots on the terraces plus declassified Singerriedel 

and Hochrain, with over a third harvested at Smaragd levels of ripeness. 

Flinty, minerally profile, with a nice core of intensely ripe citrus and fresh pear 

juiciness. Succulently fragrant, well-built. 87(+?) 

Riesling Smaragd Hochrain 1999 (barrel sample) 

Cured meat, apple and lemon rind, intense in aroma but delicate in body, with a 

cleanly pure, precise refinement. Really penetrating in its intensity but without a 

trace of excess weight, dancing in taut, lithe sleekness across the palate and 

expanding on the finish with long, subtle fragrance. Very classy. 91-93 

Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 1999 (barrel sample) 

Slightly smoky nose, hints of tobacco, lime leaf, white peach. Very elegantly refined, 

with graceful dimension and a discreet elegance, wound-up in a fine and filigree coil 

of potential energy. The epitome of finesse on the palate, quietly, sleekly concentrated, 

packing a lot of power but you hardly feel it until it knocks you over. It’s only 

half-done when you swallow – aromas envelop the back of your mouth with penetrating, 

fragrant complexity that just stays there, in breathtaking, kaleidoscopic, 

three-dimensional glory. ‘Length’ doesn’t even begin to describe it. 95-98 

Josef Jamek, Joching 

It is no surprise that the great Jamek estate has turned out yet another 

collection of superb wines in ’99. The now-retired Josef Jamek was one of 

the most influential figures in shaping the current picture of the Wachau, 

and the estate continues in its tradition of quality since being passed into 

the hands of the next generation, Hans and Jutta Altmann. The spectacular 

wines from ’99 are not to be missed. 

Grüner Veltliner Steinfeder Marienfeld 1999 

Green beans, white asparagus and lemon rind flavors, unpretentious and friendly 

in a charming and direct manner. Sneaky persistence and aroma on the finish. 86 

Wachau facts and 

figures 

Total vineyard area 

1450 hectares/3583 acres 

Major grape varieties 

55% Grüner Veltliner 

15% Riesling 

8% Müller-Thurgau 

11% other whites such as 

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), 

Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), 

Feinburgunder (Chardonnay), 

Neuburger and Gelber 

Muskateller 

11% red varieties, mostly 

Zweigelt 

Soils 

Steep, terraced Urgestein 

(primary rock) slopes consisting 

of granite, gneiss and mica 

schist. Flatter sites can have 

deeper soils of loess, clay and 

sand. 


© July/August 2000


Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rain 1999 

Taut, minerally intensity, wound like a violin string. Floral aromas of apple skin, 

cucumber and fresh pear, with a twist of sweet herbalness on the finish. 88 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Achleiten 1999 

Deep, darkly stony aromas, hinting of snap peas, parsnips, red berries and lemon 

zest. This has a fair bit of weight for a Federspiel, but has great balance and poise, 

very open and inviting. Taut and nearly steely on the palate, with real Urgestein 

raciness and a tight core of nearly tropical fruit surrounded by a cloud of citrusy 

perfume. Finishes with juicy acidity and long, cleanly subtle fragrance. 91 

Riesling Federspiel Pichl 1999 

Floral, high-toned burst of fruit, strawberry, lime and a hint of slightly dusty 

earthiness. Vibrantly citrusy acidity creates a racy, compressed profile, straight as 

an arrow, gaining in aroma as it moves back. 88 

Riesling Federspiel Klaus 1999 

Broad depth, curling in lacy fingers of tangerine, kiwi, pear and kumquat perfume. 

Creamy texture on the palate, slowly increasing in intensity to explode on a long, 

aromatic, grand cru finish, lingering in floral-citrus glory. 92 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg 1999 

Smoky, spicy nose, big-boned, with green bean and grilled capsicum aromas underlined 

by intense stoniness. Rich density in the mouth, big, garrulous and broadly 

ripe, finishing with a touch of poached pear. Quite approachable already. 89 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 1999 

Tighter, more reticent nose than the Liebenberg, fresh apricot, white pepper, carrot 

broth and a hint of red plum. Carries itself with confident, aristocratic presence. 

Really powerful thrust in the mouth, insistent Urgestein glory, with beautiful, 

nearly crystalline clarity, pure and very sleek. Expands in a whirlwind of aroma on 

the finish, with kaleidoscopic complexity and subtly gripping refinement. 94 

Riesling Smaragd Klaus 1999 

This carries the label ‘Jubiläumsfüllung – 40 Jahre’, celebrating forty years of 

Jamek wines from the heralded Ried Klaus. This wine is a celebration in itself. 

Densely-wound, exuberant aromas of orange, red apple, Asian pear and tarragon 

are firmly encased in a rigid structure and underlined by slatey stoniness, insistent 

and quietly attention-riveting. Expands with sultry, slow-moving glory, a bit 

brooding right now, but with sappy depth and concentration. A tight core of intensity 

persists on a long, fragrant finish. Very classy, thoroughly grand cru. 94 

Riesling Smaragd Zwerithaler 1999 

Cleanly piercing, without the resonating depth of the Klaus but with a nicely 

refined structure and a subtly floral perfume. Taut and upright in the mouth, 

flavors of honeydew and lemon curd, with great penetration on the back end, 

really throat-grabbing. Lingers persistently in stony, floral fragrance. 92 

Riesling Smaragd Freiheit 1999 

Creamy texture, hinting at walnuts, lemon cream and red currant jelly. The deep 

soils of the vineyard really show here in its broad, full-bodied girth, velvety and 

supple, and fairly open compared to the taut severity of the Urgestein wines. A 

touch of botrytis adds richness and textural complexity. This hasn’t quite got the 

tight acidity of the other two Smaragds, but it’s well-built, with nice length and 

aroma. 91 

In a clever bit of vineyard engineering, 

Josef Jamek planted vines directly in the 

terrace wall to maximize vineyard space 

and stabilize the terrace at the same time. 


© July/August 2000


Weissburgunder Smaragd Hochrain 1999 

Quietly piercing pear and lemon zest aromas, subtly delicate but really mouthfilling 

ripeness, with a firmly stony minerality on the back end. Very fragrant and 

compelling. 91 

Chardonnay Smaragd Oberhauser 1999 

Reticent nose, has girth and depth, but the fragrances seem slightly muted. Round 

apple and pear fruitiness in the mouth, with plenty of acidity, very fresh and ripe 

in profile. 87 

Emmerich Knoll, Unterloiben 

Another of the ‘big four’ of the Wachau (along with F.X. Pichler, 

Hirtzberger and Prager), the staunchly traditionalist Emmerich 

Knoll is one of Austria’s finest wine producers. From the great 

vineyards of Pfaffenberg, Loibenberg, Kellerberg and Schütt, he 

fashions exquisitely concentrated and expressive Riesling and 

Grüner Veltliner that, like Joh. Jos. Prüm’s wines from the Mosel, 

need no modern flash to bring them charm, instead carrying themselves 

with a serene, distinguished elegance. 

Unlike many other growers, Knoll is dismissively unconcerned 

about the type of vessel used for fermentation. His son Emmerich 

Jr. says, “We use whichever one the quantity fits in. We normally 

try to put the Smaragd Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners into wood, 

and the Federspiels into stainless steel, but really it’s not that strict.” He 

continues, “The most important thing is the work in the vineyards. In the 

vineyards you can gain quality; in the cellar you can only lose it. You can’t 

improve on what you get from the vines.” 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles 1999 (barrel sample) 

Clear, precise nose of pure green bean and lime. Very open and expressive fruitiness 

in the mouth, rich and well-balanced. 88 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Richer and tighter-knit, with alluring aromas of apricot, waxy beans, bay leaf and 

honeydew. Quite melony in the mouth, broadly rich and very supple, with a twist of 

white pepper and a chive-like herbalness at the back end. Very stylish wine, polished 

and refined in a classical way. Finishes long, fragrant and subtly dense. 91-93 

Riesling Federspiel 1999 

This is the product of mainly young vines, from various vineyards in Loiben. 

Perfumed, floral nose, underlined by aromas of slate, lemon and fresh grass. Taut 

apple and ripe lemon flavors on the palate, with a little kernel of electrifying 

peachiness in the center. Fairly open and easy-going, freshly finished. 89 

Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Reticent nose, racy and tightly-wound, like a snail in its shell. Nicely concentrated 

in the mouth, with a fragrant depth of focused pear, nectarine, lime zest and 

almond notes. Aromas explode on the back end, but the structure always remains 

focused and sleekly taut, pointing to a subtly elegant, quietly powerful and intense 

finish that lingers for a very long time. Gorgeous. 91-94 

Riesling Smaragd Schütt 1999 (barrel sample) 

Nicely creamy citrus aromas with a touch of exotic fruit, like passionfruit or guava. 

Round and mouthfilling, bigger and a bit more extroverted than the Loibenberg, 

with a nice complexity in the inner core. Finishes nicely, round and jovial rather 

than projecting the sleek elegance of the Loibenberg. 91-93 

“The most important thing is 

the work in the vineyards. In 

the vineyards you can gain 

quality; in the cellar you can 

only lose it.” 

— Emmerich Knoll, Jr. 


© July/August 2000


Nikolaihof-Wachau, Mautern 

The wines of Nikolaihof can often be stunning, but I 

was still unprepared for the scintillating glory of the 

‘99s. Even in this magnificent vintage, these wines 

stand out with their intensity, purity and sheer class. 

Nikolaihof’s wines may be overly austere in their youth 

for some, but those with patience (and the fortune to 

acquire the wines) are greatly rewarded, as evidenced 

by tasting a series of older wines that included an 

incredible Grüner Veltliner Honifogl (the old name for 

Smaragd) from 1986 that was just beginning to explode 

in brilliantly complex splendor, and showing far more 

youth than most grand cru white Burgundies that old. 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge 1999 

Purer than the ’98, and packed with a complex array of flavors: green lentil, 

honeydew, Asian pear and bay leaf. Huge depth and extract, but this is so cleanly 

racy, with the aromas amplified upon each other in Nikolaihof’s baroque way, that 

it remains superbly harmonious and gracefully expansive. I am sure that this will 

live forever. 93(+?) 

Riesling Federspiel vom Stein 1999 

Lovely clarity and sense of purity, allied with rich extract. Floral aromas of tangerine, 

mango, lime and toasted almond, hauntingly fragrant but wrapped tightly in 

a focused, tautly linear build. Crescendos to a richly sappy finish, really vibrant 

internal harmonics, resonating like echoes in a cathedral. 92 

Riesling Smaragd vom Stein 1999 

Tighter-grained and a touch finer than the Federspiel, quieter in profile yet ultimately 

broader and more enveloping. Baked apple, lime and a touch of papaya are 

contained in a piercingly stony grip, with effortless, nearly weightless intensity. 

Expands with explosive but focused dimension, reminiscent of walking into Notre 

Dame for the first time, heart pounding, nearly overwhelmed by its presence. 

Long, finely-knit, multi-layered fragrance on a superbly elegant finish. 94 

Riesling Spätlese Steiner Hund 1999 

This cannot be called Smaragd, as the Hund is in the Kremstal and not the 

Wachau, thus the term Spätlese is employed. Is there a finer vineyard than Steiner 

Hund? Pure and geologically-driven, with ultra-fine dimension and a scintillating, 

crystalline intensity, this is almost blinding in its kaleidoscopic kineticism. Like 

lime and Urgestein zested together, with a touch of honeydew and lavender, shooting 

off all kinds of harmonics. Doesn’t really finish – just goes on and on in its 

ethereal, operatic way. This will be amazing. It already is. 96(+?) 

Riesling Jungfernwein Im Weingebirge 1999 

This is labeled as ‘süss’ (sweet); Jungfernwein (virgin wine) is the term for a vineyard’s 

first crop. Honeyed pineapple, tangerine and passionfruit coulis sweetness 

underlined by racy acidity, very fresh and vibrant, with a touch of spiciness. There 

is an intense minerality that seems to be expanded by the presence of residual 

sugar. Nicely built, with a long, stony finish. 89 

Feinburgunder (Chardonnay) Botrytis Edelsüss 1999 

Trust me, it’s not as weird as it sounds. Citrus peel, lime sorbet and a slight herbalness, 

with a slightly glassy texture and spicy botrytis. Component parts are a little 

disjointed right now, but this is quite stylish and well-made. 88? 

Actually in the adjacent Kremstal district, Steiner Hund is one of the 

finest Riesling vineyards in Austria, as the wines of Nikolaihof show. 


© July/August 2000


Franz Xaver Pichler, Oberloiben 

Lukas Pichler, F.X.’s son, describes ’99 as “typical, classic for our winery.” 

He adds that it is “not as powerful as ’98, with its botrytis and alcohol. 

This is the same as ’97 or ’90.” He proceeded to present me with one of the 

finest collections of wine I have ever had the privilege to taste, in Austria 

or anywhere else in the world. 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Frauenweingarten 1999 

Fragrant, finely-toned nose, redolent of lime blossoms, green lentils and a twist of 

white pepper. Light in body but with intensity and subtle nuance, cleanly refreshing 

and absolutely delicious. 88 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Klostersatz 1999 

A bit more dense than the Frauenweingarten, slightly smoky, with a finely lentilly 

aroma. Creamy and expansive, unfolding in layers of citrus peel, green beans and 

buttery dhal, very aromatic, with firm but ultra-harmonious acidity. One feels the 

hand of the master at work here. 90 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen 1999 (barrel sample) 

This comes exclusively from Urgestein terraces in Loiben. 

Refined presence and baritone grip, slate-dusted aromas of 

melon rind, lemongrass and baked beans. Subtle and elegant 

concentration in the mouth, picking up more citrus notes and 

lots of perfumed dimension. Finishes long and very aromatic. 

90-92 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Lime, kumquat, green papaya, with a slightly spicy savoriness, 

all wrapped in a searing minerality. Entices you in, then 

encases you in the iron jaws of its powerfully focused structure 

and brilliant intensity. Big-boned, but not at all heavy, 

superbly demonstrating the clarity and grace of the vintage. 

Classy wine, finishing with a finely lingering fragrance and 

impeccable balance. 93-95 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Even tighter-knit on the nose than the Loibenberg, really 

finely-toned, and again with a hint of the exotic: papaya, 

guava, bay leaf, tobacco. Tightly-wound minerality, very 

multi-faceted, with shimmering complexity flickering around 

the edges. And that’s just the nose. Velvety, seductive mouthfeel, 

yet insistently maintains a racy, sleekly taut structure, 

expanding in a crescendo and gaining in both presence and 

dimension as it moves back. Like Nigl’s Piri Privat, this picks 

up a whole new attack on the finish, continuing to develop 

new facets and nuances after you’ve swallowed it: honeydew, 

Inside the cellar at F.X. Pichler. 

citrus peel, lime blossom, smoke. Lovely wine. 94-97 


© July/August 2000


Grüner Veltliner Smaragd ‘M’ 1999 (barrel sample) 

The ‘M’ stands for ‘monumental,’ designating the Grüner Veltliner that Pichler feels 

is his best of the vintage. The ’99 is about 70-80% Loibenberg, with the balance 

from Kellerberg. Brooding, swarthy nose, very bass-driven, hinting at darkly mysterious 

depths. Finely-toned aromas of melon rind, nectarine, guava, lentils and rice, 

broadly rich and textural. Even more expansive in the mouth than the previous two 

Veltliners, crawling slowly back on the palate with self-assured, unhurried presence 

– dominating, intimidating, ultra-refined and perfectly balanced. ‘Intense’ doesn’t 

even begin to describe this. Very tightly closed, but lingers forever in the mouth, 

hinting at great depth, concentration and complexity. 95-97 

Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser 1999 (barrel sample) 

Peach-pit, pineapple, almond oil, apple jelly and fresh pears, vibrant and exuberantly 

playful. Great presence in the mouth, with ethereal fragrance and lots of 

dimension, ripely tropical and finely aromatic. A wine of pure joy. 92-93 

Riesling Smaragd Steinertal 1999 (barrel sample) 

Pungently stony fragrance, sleekly compressed yet carrying itself with aristocratic 

bearing. Very discreet and finely taut aromas of lime, pineapple, mandarin orange 

and white peach. Crystalline in the mouth, with a beautifully silky texture, finishing 

with a round balance and plenty of class. 91-93 

Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Lime, pastry cream, tangerine peel and a hint of, dare I say, yak butter (it’s an 

unforgettable smell). Really racy, floral and piercingly elegant, with just a slight 

confectionary touch to give it a superb texture and dimension. Beautifully expansive 

on the palate, building in glorious perfume to an extremely complex back end, 

effortlessly going on and on in perfect, ethereal, seemingly weightless harmony. 

This is incredible in the way it combines intense concentration with an utterly 

refined elegance and delicacy. Profound. 95-97 

Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Deeper-pitched than the Loibenberg, not as floral, with more emphasis on minerality. 

Lime blossom, red currant, peach and fresh pears, with scintillating dimension 

like a hall of mirrors. Where the Loibenberg is projecting itself assertively, 

proclaiming its glory, the Kellerberg is quieter, more discreet and more introverted 

but equally profound, perhaps ultimately even more so. Again there is a 

deeply concentrated depth but effortless harmony and grace. The finish is like a 

concert hall, resonating, echoing, constantly picking up new subtleties and 

nuances in that Pichler way: firm but subtle, intense and delicate, present yet ethereal. 

I pray to have the chance to watch this unfold over its lifetime. 95-98 

Rudi Pichler, Wösendorf 

For notes on Rudi Pichler’s 1999 wines, see our Estate Review that follows 

on the next page. 

Please see our special supplement of 1998 tasting notes, available for 

download in the Library of the Riesling Report Web site. 

Vinea Wachau 

Nobilis Districtus 

In 1983 an association of growers 

was formed to promote 

quality and insure strict standards 

in the Wachau. Three 

classes of ripeness were designated, 

all of which apply only to 

dry white wines. 

Frau Hirtzberger advises 

drinking Steinfeder within the 

first year, as it “loses character in 

the nose.” A “good” Federspiel 

should have a drinking life of 

four to five years or more, and 

Smaragd is for long keeping. 

Steinfeder 

The name refers to a whispy, 

feathery grass in the vineyards. 

Steinfeder (“stone feather”) 

must be unchaptalized, 

harvested at a minimum of 15˚ 

KMW (73˚ Oechsle) and have a 

maximum of 10.7% alcohol. 

Federspiel 

Commemorating the sport of 

falconry, Federspiel (“feather 

play”) contains between 11 and 

12% alcohol and is picked at a 

minimum must weight of 17˚ 

KMW (83˚ Oechsle). 

Smaragd 

Smaragd means ‘emerald’, but it 

refers also to a green lizard that 

likes to lounge on the hot 

terrace walls of top vineyards. 

The finest wine of the 

Wachau, Smaragd demands a 

minimum of 12% alcohol and a 

must weight of 18.2˚ KMW (90˚ 

Oechsle). These are capable of 

great longevity and are some of 

the world’s greatest wines. 

For sweeter wines, the terms 

Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein 

and Trockenbeerenauslese may 

be used. 


© July/August 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Wachau by Peter Liem 

Rudi Pichler 

“LOOK AT THIS,” SAYS RUDI PICHLER, quietly pointing 

to the neatly spaced row of vines protruding from a 

stone wall in Josef Jamek’s Ried Klaus. “This is perfection.” 

With Pichler’s ever-observant eye and scrupulous 

attention to detail, the same words may soon be spoken 

of his small but dynamic estate. In the space of only a 

few years, Rudi Pichler has firmly established himself 

as one of the stars of the Wachau. 

Pichler first had a hand in the operation of his 

father’s winery in 1994, and in 1997 fully took over the 

estate of six hectares spread across 28 separate vineyards. 

The vineyard plots may not be large, but they 

include some impressive sites. Grüner Veltliner is 

grown in Kollmütz, a heavy-soil vineyard in Wösendorf, 

and in the neighboring Hochrain, one of the great 

grands crus of the Wachau. The soils in Hochrain vary 

– Pichler’s Grüner Veltliner is from 50-year-old vines 

on the loess portions at the base of the slope. Just below Rudi Pichler’s 50-year-old Grüner Veltliner vines in the grand cru 

Hochrain is the stony Kirchweg, where Pichler has 38- Hochrain vineyard. 

year-old Riesling vines that make marvelously concentrated 

and perfumed wines. 

The jewel of the estate, however, is the tiny, awe-inspiring plot of the 

magnificent Achleiten vineyard in Weissenkirchen. Pichler owns onethird 

of a hectare on the eastern end of the vineyard that clings precariously 

onto an impossibly steep, southwest-facing slope emerging from the 

rock. “This is one of my favorite spots,” says Pichler, standing on an 

exposed, weather-beaten chunk of pure primary rock jutting out of a 

terrace. “This is why this place is so special.” 

Despite its small size, the maintenance of this vineyard is a full-time In the space of only a few 

job, combating against the erosion of what little soil there is and the years, Rudi Pichler has firmly 

inevitable decay of the painstakingly built terrace walls. In former times established himself as one of 

there were up to eight people employed for the sole purpose of maintain- 

the stars of the Wachau. 

ing and rebuilding the walls; now, few people have the skill or patience for 

such tasks. Furthermore, all of the vineyard work must also be done by 

hand, as the terraces are far too narrow for machinery. The resulting wine 

is usually limited to a scant 100 cases, but it is all worth the effort, to 

express the beauty of this wild and rugged place. 

When the vineyard work is done with care and attention, the work in 

the cellar can naturally be uncomplicated and minimalist. Since taking 

over from his father, Pichler has begun fermenting wines entirely in stainless 

steel tanks, but at temperatures that are “not too cold.” He says, “I 

raised the temperature in the last few years because I don’t like the cold 

aromas.” Still, the emphasis is on elegance and a fine complexity. “My 


© July/August 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Rudi Pichler 

philosophy in the cellar is to leave the wines longer on the fine lees to let 

the flavors develop.” 

Above all, Pichler is a dedicated devotee of wine. A healthy disdain for 

the formulaic and inflexible methods of the oenological school systems 

prompted Pichler to look elsewhere for training: “I learned winemaking 

by winetasting,” he says proudly. He continues to taste widely and inquisitively, 

and his encyclopedic knowledge of the Wachau and its denizens is 

undoubtedly a key factor to his success. With determined and steadfast 

leaders like Rudi Pichler in the vanguard, the future of the Wachau 

appears very bright indeed. 

Tasting Notes 

The following wines were tasted in Wösendorf in April of 2000. 

1999 

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 1999 

This is blended from several vineyards on the terraced slopes. “Federspiel is just 

for fun,” laughs Pichler, with a dismissive wave of his hand, yet this is altogether a 

very serious wine. Rich profile, subtly and quietly powerful. Melon, white peach 

and French green lentil aromas intertwine with stony perfume, immediately showing 

a great deal of class. Wonderful presence, lingering persistently on the finish 

with fragrance and balance. 89 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmütz 1999 (barrel sample) 

Deeply baritone, with a lightly smoky, nearly meaty savoriness. Very finelytextured 

and self-assured. Ripe, pure fruitiness is constrained in a subtle and 

elegant structure, very nicely focused, with a floral perfume on the finish. Beautifully 

harmonious wine. 90-92 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain 1999 (barrel sample) 

Rich, powerful thrust and real old-vine concentration, but 

finely focused in the quietly understated Rudi Pichler style. 

Broadly-toned green bean, cured meat and garrigue scents, 

with really insistent and penetrating depth. This acquires a 

sleekly peachy sweetness on the back end, though the residual 

sugar is only 1.7 g/l – Pichler says that “this smells and 

tastes sweeter because of the extract.” Superbly balanced and 

expansive finish, with long, aromatic dimension and length. 

91-93 

Roter Veltliner Smaragd 1999 (barrel sample) 

Aromas of lemon pith, green apple, melon and parsnip, with a 

slightly rustic texture. Quite extroverted and charming, showing 

a bit of botrytis on the palate and finishing with sneaky 

presence and length. Delicious wine, begs to be drunk. 87-89 

Riesling Federspiel 1999 

Orange sorbet, Kaffir lime leaves and a floral-blossom 

fragrance, delicately aromatic and high-toned. Crisp and clean, 

with a hint of mintiness on the back end. 88 

Rudi Pichler. 

Pichler’s plot of the magnificent and impossibly steep Achleiten 

vineyard. 


© July/August 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Rudi Pichler 

Riesling Smaragd Terrassen 1999 (barrel sample) 

About half of this went through malolactic fermentation, as Pichler felt that the 

acidity would otherwise have been too prominent. This may sound controversial, 

but Pichler is happy with the result, and is open to further experimentation with 

the Terrassen bottling, as it is normally the least ripe of the Riesling Smaragds and 

thus often exhibits overly aggressive acidity. “I would never do it with the Rieds,” 

he says. Sleek depth of fruit underlined by smoky slate, again very understated, 

but there’s a lot there. Lovely presence on the palate – here fruit seems to exist 

solely as a vehicle for the pure expression of slate. Joyfully delicious. 88-89 

Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Deeper and purer than the Terrassen, with more complexity. Dark, sultry aromas 

of wet stone, pear, cassis and red berry, very insistent and richly textured. Slightly 

high-toned finish, with a citrusy, perfumed aroma. 89-91 

Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 1999 (barrel sample) 

Pure class on the nose, grippingly intense and finely sleek, proudly announcing the 

greatness of its origins. Hints of violets, orange peel and white peaches are 

wrapped in a taut casing, showing steep-slope concentration and clarity. The silky, 

vividly detailed palate builds in unhurried and refined harmony, expanding with 

profoundly gripping depth and a subtly shifting complexity. Lovely wine. 93-95 

1998 

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain 1998 

For this wine, a Trockenbeerenauslese was harvested to reduce botrytis before the 

Smaragd was picked! Girthier than the ’99, slightly honeyed white peach, fresh 

apricot and poached pear scents. Quite exuberantly ripe, but still balanced and 

retaining focus. Botrytis adds richness and depth on the palate without blurring it, 

and everything comes together in graceful, harmonious equilibrium – one doesn’t 

even feel the 14.8% alcohol or 8 g/l of residual sugar here, as everything is seamlessly 

wound together in a complete whole. Remarkable. 93(+?) 

Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg 1998 

A touch of botrytis here gives a slightly glassy feel, rich and a little honeyed, with 

flavors of apricot jelly and almond-cream. Rich in the mouth but a little diffuse, 

without the finely-tuned harmony of the Hochrain Veltliner. Remains somewhat 

high-toned throughout, finishing apricotty, aromatic and fairly easy-going. 88 

Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 1998 

Botrytis is felt here, but overall this is tighter-knit than the Kirchweg, with a tightly 

concentrated kernel of apricot, currant and pineapple fruit, all wrapped in a piercingly 

intense stoniness as if there were bits of crushed rock inside the bottle. Broad 

on the palate and perhaps blurred slightly by the botrytis, but this has nice structure, 

finishing with long length, good acidity and a pervasive stoniness, and 

demonstrating great breed. 91 

Beerenauslese Cuvée 1998 

Seven parts Grauburgunder, two parts Roter Veltliner, and one part Grüner Veltliner, 

finishing at 120 g/l residual sugar and 13% alcohol. Honeyed nose, nicely 

elegant, with aromas of sweet corn, cherry, orange marmalade and smoke. Clear 

and intense on the palate, picking up a complex array of apricot, orange cream and 

lime zest, and exhibiting a smoothly glassy texture. Vibrant and very wellbalanced, 

with plenty of refreshing acidity – this is so racy it seems nearly weightless 

in body. 92 

WEINGUT RUDI PICHLER 



4 hectares purchased grapes 

Average production 

48 000 bottles 

Varieties 

Grüner Veltliner 45% 

Riesling 30% 

Weissburgunder, Chardonnay 

and Roter Veltliner 25% 

Top vineyards 

Weissenkirchner Achleiten 

Wösendorfer Hochrain 

Wösendorfer Kollmütz 

Contact Information 

3610 Wösendorf 38 

Tel: 02715/22 67 

Fax: 02715/22 67-4 

E-mail: 

weingut.rudi.pichler@netway.at 

Visits strictly by appointment. 

Rudi Pichler is extremely 

gracious and hospitable, and 

speaks fluent English. He is 

also a gold mine of information 

about the Wachau and its 

residents. 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA by Peter Liem 

The Kremstal and Kamptal 

THE WACHAU MAY BE THE ELITE AND ARISTOCRATIC establishment 

of the Austrian wine world, but there is serious competition being offered 

from the neighboring districts of the Kremstal and Kamptal. Formerly 

known as a single entity called Kamptal Donauland, these have recently 

been separated into two distinct areas. 

Many of the top growers here belong to an organization called the 

‘Österreichische Traditionsweingüter,’ which was founded in 1991 for the 

purpose of creating a vineyard classification. This was not implemented, 

but the group still thrives today, setting a standard of quality and acting as 

ambassadors for the region. 

Vineyards 

The movement by the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter to classify the 

vineyards of the region was abandoned in the face of resulting political 

turmoil, but the research did allow the growers to gain a better understanding 

of their vineyards and of the geology of the region. I do not wish 

to revive a classification movement, but rather to present here the names 

of some vineyards that deserve attention. This is not intended as a 

comprehensive listing. However, if there were a Grand Cru system to be 

implemented, I believe that all of these would be up for consideration. 

KREMSTAL 

The community of Krems actually consists today of three previously separate 

villages: Krems, Und and Stein, which explains the local joke, “Krems 

Und Stein sind drei Städte” (Krems and Stein are three towns). The most 

famous portions of the Kremstal vineyards surround these, benefiting 

from the warming effects of the Danube. The western portion, around the 

town of Stein and stretching up into the hills to Senftenberg, is mostly 

Urgestein, the granitic primary rock that is the key to high-quality 

Riesling here, while east of Krems, vines are planted on the loess and 

sandy soils that Grüner Veltliner thrives in. 

Krems 

Kögl 

Rocky and terraced, this magnificent vineyard looms majestically over the town of 

Krems. A perfect southern exposure ensures excellent ripening, while its location 

a short distance away from the warm Danube causes the wines to be a little more 

structured and tightly-wound than the vineyards closer to the river such as Pfaffenberg. 

Erich Salomon’s Rieslings from the Kögl are taut and finely aristocratic, 

with great depth and capacity for aging. 

A long-term experiment in the vineyard: 

lyre-trained vines at Bründlmayer. 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA | Kremstal & Kamptal 

Stein 

Hund 

The famous Steiner Hund sits serenely above the town of Stein, on a slope between 

Kögl to the east and Pffafenberg to the west. From a three-hectare plot in the 

Hund, Nikolaihof makes some of the most stunning Rieslings in Austria, scintillatingly 

complex and finely structured. 

Pfaffenberg 

The name ‘Pfaffenberg’ is derived from an old word for a Roman Catholic priest in 

the Middle Ages. The vineyard lies next to the Danube on the western edge of the 

Kremstal, at the border with the Wachau. Perched on a rocky, granite cliff overlooking 

the river, Pfaffenberg enjoys a warm microclimate, due both to its glorious 

south-southeast exposure and its proximity to the water. Because of this, the wines 

tend to be more open in their youth than vineyards such as Steiner Hund or 

Kremser Kögl, but still retain great class and finesse. Great producers here include 

Emmerich Knoll and Erich Salomon, and there can sometimes be good wines from 

Dinstlgut Loiben. 

Senftenberg 

Senftenberg is located in the Krems valley about five kilometers from the 

Danube. As the valley runs roughly northwest-to-southeast, the prime 

vineyards along the river here are on terraces facing southwest, and are a 

little more sheltered from the winds than the sites closer to the Danube. 

Three major hills are the sources of top wines: Hochäcker, in the north 

near Senftenberg; Goldberg, opposite the village of Rehberg; and Kremsleiten, 

where the Krems river flows into the town of Krems. 

Hochäcker 

Hochäcker occupies the larger hill on which Piri (see below) is located, and Nigl 

owns plots in each. Nigl’s wines from Hochäcker can achieve the same complexity 

and breed as those from Piri, but as the elevation is slightly higher, the wines seem 

to have just a touch less body, with the emphasis on finesse and grace. Franz 

Proidl is also a name to look for from this site. 

Piri (Senftenberg) 

Martin Nigl’s Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners from this site are some of the greatest 

wines in Austria. A very steep, terraced vineyard on Urgestein rock, Piri creates 

firmly structured but magnificently complex wines, marked by a flinty, minerally 

stoniness. 

KAMPTAL 

The hills around the Kamp River northeast of Krems are richly carpeted 

with vines. Centered around the town of Langenlois, this area boasts a 

diversity of soils and many excellent sites, including the magnificent 

Heiligenstein hill, one of the most famous vineyard sites in Austria. 

Combine this with the presence of many top-quality producers, and the 

result is one of the most dynamic and exciting growing regions in the 

world – if also among the least known. 

Langenlois 

The town of Langenlois lies in a valley surrounded by hills, open only to 

the southeast. Langenlois has no shortage of great sites, and the diversity 

of the soils in the valley promote the cultivation of not only Riesling and 

Grüner Veltliner, but also Weissburgunder and more recently Chardonnay 

and red varietals. 

Ripeness levels for 

dry wines 

In the Kremstal and Kamptal, 

few growers are using ripeness 

designations beyond Qualitätswein 

any more, save Auslese 

and above for dessert wines. 

However, there is an official 

system in place that is strictly 

enforced. 

Qualitätswein 

Must come from a single district 

and must be submitted before 

an official board, which awards 

it a code similar to Germany’s 

AP number. Minimum must 

weight is 15˚ KMW (73˚ Oechsle) 

and minimum alcohol is 

8.5% by volume. 

Kabinett 

Unlike its German counterpart, 

Kabinett is considered a Qualitätswein 

in Austria, not a 

Prädikatswein. Must not be 

chaptalized, and must reach a 

minimum of 17˚ KMW (84˚ 

Oechsle). Residual sugar cannot 

be higher than 9 g/l. 

Spätlese 

Spätlese is the first level of 

Prädikatswein. No Prädikatswein 

may be chaptalized, and the 

wine must come from a single 

specified growing area. The must 

weight for Spätlese has to be at 

least 19˚ KMW (94˚ Oechsle). 


© July/August 2000

REGIONS OF AUSTRIA | Kremstal & Kamptal 

Käferberg 

This vineyard lies on an old ocean bed that has been lifted high into the hills, 

containing granite, loess, clay and calcareous elements. With its heavier soils, it is 

better suited to Grüner Veltliner than to Riesling. The wines tend to have a fair bit 

of girth but can retain plenty of complexity and grand cru breed. Bründlmayer and 

Fred Loimer both produce superb Veltliners here. 

Lamm 

The Heiligenstein hill is divided into two: the upper part contains mostly granite 

and volcanic rock, and the lower portion loess and sand. Ried Lamm is located at 

the top of the loess portion. The deep soils and excellent exposure provide great 

ripening, demonstrated by Bründlmayer’s Grüner Veltliner which can easily reach 

14 or 15% natural alcohol. Hirsch also produces deeply concentrated and creamy 

Grüner Veltliner here from old vines. 

Spiegel 

This loess and clay vineyard south of Langenlois creates powerfully concentrated 

Grüner Veltliners. Fred Loimer produces his top Veltliners from Spiegel, and even 

puts the old-vine fruit into a little new wood, as he believes that the natural richness 

and intensity derived from the site can not only handle the wood but also be 

complemented by it. Bründlmayer has some plantings of Grauburgunder and 

Weissburgunder here. 

Steinmassel 

Composed primarily of granite and schist, this stony vineyard faces south-southwest 

in the hills west of Langenlois. The site is warm and ripens grapes readily, but 

the high altitude allows for long hang time to develop great finesse and complexity 

of flavor. Steinmassel is the source for Fred Loimer’s best Rieslings, and 

Bründlmayer also produces grand cru-quality wine from this excellent site. 

Zöbing 

The tiny village of Zöbing is tucked into a cleft in the hills next to Heiligenstein, 

just to the north of Langenlois. Naturally, Zöbing’s main claim 

to fame is its famous landmark, but Josef and Johannes Hirsch are working 

hard to make sure that the name Gaisberg is heard around the world 

as well. 

Gaisberg 

Gaisberg lies on a hill just to the east of Heiligenstein, with similar exposure and 

a lot of schistous rock. The champion here is Josef Hirsch, who makes richly classy 

Rieslings with focus and complexity. Compared to their wines from Heilgenstein, 

the Gaisberg is more open in its youth, but still demonstrates great structure and 

breed. 

Heiligenstein 

Zöbinger Heiligenstein is one of the greatest Riesling vineyards in the world. The 

270 million year-old hill is a conglomerate, mixing sandstone, loess, granite and 

volcanic rock. Bründlmayer is the acknowledged master here, with nine hectares 

and some very old vines. Hirsch and Schloss Gobelsburg also make excellent wines 

here. 

Ripeness levels for 

sweet wines 

Auslese 

Usually a sweeter wine, an 

Auslese must reach 21˚ KMW 

(104˚ Oechsle). Auslese is 

normally made only in years of 

exceptional ripeness and widespread 

botrytis. 

Eiswein 

The grapes must be harvested 

and pressed while frozen, at a 

minimum must weight of 25˚ 

KMW (127˚ Oechsle). Eiswein is 

usually made from non-botrytised 

grapes. 

Beerenauslese 

As in Germany, BA signifies a 

botrytised and noble sweet 

wine, harvested with a must 

weight of at least 25˚ KMW 

(127˚ Oechsle). 

Trockenbeerenauslese 

Rare and precious, TBA is a 

botrytised-berry selection from 

must weights of at least 30˚ 

KMW (168˚ Oechsle). “Difficult 

to produce and difficult to 

drink,” as Willi Bründlmayer puts 

it – but they can be remarkable. 


© July/August 2000

TASTING NOTES by Peter Liem 

Kremstal & Kamptal 1999 

THE MAJORITY OF THESE WINES WERE TASTED IN AUSTRIA in 

April of 2000. The rest were tasted in Portland, Oregon, and are indicated 

as such. As always, scores are given only to wines that were tasted from 

bottle, and ranges given for barrel samples. 

Kremstal 

Erich Salomon, Stein 

Please see our Estate Review on page 30. 

Familie Nigl, Priel 

In the words of American importer Terry Theise: “I 

don’t claim Nigl is the best winery in Austria, but I also 

don’t believe there’s anyone better.” In a very short 

time, Familie Nigl has firmly established itself in the 

very top rank of wine producers, not only in Austria, 

but in all of Europe. The result – a near-rabid cult 

following worldwide that has recognized these as some 

of the wine world’s greatest treasures. The ’99s were 

bottled in March, a month prior to my visit. “We always 

bottle a little bit early,” says Herr Nigl. “It’s better for 

the development, to keep the fruit inside the bottle.” Martin Nigl is one of the brightest and fastest-rising stars in Austria. 

And what fruit it is! 

Grüner Veltliner Gärtling 1999 

Delightfully fresh and clean, with juicy flavors of Asian pear and green apple. 88 

Grüner Veltliner Piri 1999 

Very fragrant in profile, with high-toned, lilting aromas of fresh orange, waxy 

beans, browned butter, violets and chalk. Very pure and compelling in its insistent 

clarity. 91 

Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 1999 

This comes from two loess plots in the Weinzierlberg near Krems, with 40- and 

70-year-old vines, respectively. Richer in concentration than the Piri, perfumed in 

its honeydew, guava and mocha-cream fruitiness. Broad depth, restrained in a 

stylish and ultra-harmonious acidic structure. Finishes clear and pure, like a bell, 

with superb length and grace. 92 

Grüner Veltliner Zwetel 1999 (barrel sample) 

From 35-40 year-old vines, this is the first release from this newly acquired plot. 

Unlike most of Nigl’s wines, this was fermented and aged in old wooden fuder 

rather than stainless steel: “For a very ripe Veltliner, a little wood is good for 

elegance – the harmonics will be better.” Aromas of cocoa, praline and dried pear. 

Richly concentrated with an unctuous texture – the wood is evident in the mouthfeel 

more than anywhere else – but is the gain in texture offset by a little loss in 

brilliance and purity? Richly dense and wound-up finish, hinting at butter and 

toffee, long, aromatic and expansive. 90-92 


© July/August 2000

TASTING NOTES | Kremstal & Kamptal 1999 

Grüner Veltliner Piri Privat 1999 

Crystalline purity and intensity, very expressive aromas of 

honeydew, guava, tangerine candy and green papaya, with 

great dimension and subtlety. Finely gripping and perfumed 

finish, real class and old-vine depth. 94 

Sauvignon Blanc 1999 

Bright gooseberry and lime flavors, pungently insistent and 

not unlike a good example from New Zealand. Crisply fresh, 

extroverted and appealing. 88 

Riesling Piri 1999 

Incredibly floral, filigree nose, vibrantly displaying tangerine, 

lime sorbet, and piercing Urgestein minerality. The build is 

classic Nigl: focused and racy, expanding as it moves back to a 

delicately haunting, expressively perfumed finish that coats 

your palate with near-painful intensity. This one sets the tone 

– the others just expand on it in their individual variations. 92 

Riesling Kremsleiten 1999 

Kremsleiten, unlike the other Riesling vineyards, is situated where the Kremstal 

valley opens to the Danube, and is influenced by the river’s climate and exposure 

to winds. Because of this, the wines tend to show well young and to open a little 

earlier, says Herr Nigl. This has a little more weight than the Piri, with aromas of 

pear, cassis, lemon zest and a hint of pastry cream, remaining very clean and pure 

throughout. Headspinning finish, really expansive aromatics and tremendous 

length, lingering insistently in sheer stony glory. 92(+?) 

Riesling Goldberg 1999 

This is another newly-acquired plot for Nigl, and the ’99 is the first release. Taut 

and finely-toned, this has deeply-wound flavors of dried pear, apple, lime and a 

hint of licorice, really penetrating and racy. Expands with grand cru presence, 

finishing with a concentrated core of intensity that continues to pick up new 

dimension and nuance while supposedly dissipating – it actually refuses to quit. 

Floral, stony, impossibly lovely. 93(+?) 

Riesling Hochäcker 1999 

Hochäcker lies directly above Piri, and Nigl’s plots are separated only by a single 

wall. Very stony nose, citrus peel, crushed flowers, mint, lime sorbet. Very penetrating 

and refined, continuing with pitbull-like concentration in the mouth and 

sparkling with multi-faceted intensity like a brilliantly cut gem. Builds to a rocksolid 

core of gripping power on the back, finishing with haunting dimension and 

perfumed nuance. Superb wine, even better than the superlative ’97 and ’98. 95 

Riesling Piri Privat 1999 

This is the sixth Riesling to be designated ‘Privat’ (the first was in 1991), and the 

third to be made exclusively from the 40-year old vines located just below the 

Hochäcker wall. Even more concentrated than the Hochäcker, with a finely-knit 

sense of breed and a haughtily gripping structure. Like the Hochäcker, this has a 

brilliantly penetrating intensity, yet carries with it a touch more flesh, so that it 

appears more backwards and more opulent all at once. Have you seen the movie 

Alien3, where the alien opens its mouth and a little monster-appendage emerges 

to slaver all over Ripley? That’s what this finish is like – expanding to reveal a 

whole new set of flavors and taking off on a life of its own. Totally mind-gripping, 

aristocratic wine, utterly and effortlessly grand cru. 96(+?) 

Nigl’s superior Piri vineyard beneath the ruins of Senftenberg castle. 

For more 

information… 

Austrian Wine 

Marketing Board 

Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 34 

A-1040 Wien 

Tel: 01/503 92 67 

Fax: 01/503 92 68 

E-mail: info@weinmarketing.at 

www.weinmarketing.at 


© July/August 2000


Kamptal 

Willi Bründlmayer, Langenlois 

Bründlmayer is one of the best-known estates in Austria, and for good 

reason. A large estate by Kamptal standards (60 hectares), it combines 

quantity with exceptional quality, and the name Bründlmayer on the label 

is as safe a guarantee as any for the consumer. Willi Bründlmayer has a 

slight preference for Grüner Veltliner in 1999 and Riesling in 1998, but 

doesn’t want to be nailed down, hastily emphasizing that “we won’t know 

for 10 or 15 years.” In addition to these wines, Bründlmayer produces one 

of the very finest methode champenoise sparkling wines to be found 

outside of Champagne (indeed, it can put to shame many examples within 

Champagne). The current vintage is 1995, composed of Pinot Noir, 

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. 

Grüner Veltliner Leicht und Trocken 1999 

Slightly apricotty, with a fair bit of weight. Cleanly built in the mouth, showing 

aromas of orange zest and a garrigue-like herbalness. Nicely balanced. 86 

Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen 1999 

Smoky, slatey nose, creamy green bean and lentil fragrance underlined by 

smoothly delicate and stony perfume. Firm depth of fruit and a creamy texture, 

very aromatic. 89 

Grüner Veltliner Berg-Vogelsang 1999 

Pungently stony, with a licorice component. Broad, low-toned depth, nice clarity 

and acidity but perhaps a bit too easy-going. Supple and juicy. 87 

Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg 1999 

Tighter-knit and more precise than the Vogelsang, aromas of lentil and turnip 

underlined by a searingly geological intensity. Broadly mouthfilling, but with a 

taut, focused profile, very aromatic and expansive with expressive and cleanly ripe 

aromas. Beautiful structure on the back end, gently but firmly held together, 

finishing long and fragrant. 91(+?) 

Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 1999 

This, along with the Ried Lamm and Ried Käferberg, is fermented in two and three 

year-old oak barriques. Brooding and backwards, muscular even. Firmly insistent 

depth, round but with firm thrust underneath. Lime, white pepper, mint and 

grapefruit peel. Yes, this is bigger than the previous wines (at 13.5% alcohol), but 

it’s also more expansive on the back end and has more complexity, finishing with 

a marvelous dimension like a ringing bell or a solo trumpet. Long, resonant and 

deliciously vibrant. 92 

Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 1999 

Girthy, swarthy aromas of black pepper, cured meat, cardamom, mandarin 

orange, cinnamon and tree bark, nicely harmonious, even though the weight of its 

15% alcohol is keenly felt. Richly mouthfilling but just a little monolithic – this is 

full-throttle Veltliner, with no holds barred. Might be a little big for some, but I 

think that the intrinsic clarity of the vintage makes this work in its way. 90 

Willi Bründlmayer 

The name Bründlmayer on 

the label is as safe a guarantee 

as any for the consumer. 


© July/August 2000


Grüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg 1999 

A little more pure than the Lamm, apple, currant jelly, split-pea and melon-rind. 

Dense and powerful, but well-built, with a silky texture. Quite baroque on the back 

end, echoing with concert-hall dimension, underlined by an insistent thrust of 

acidity. 92 

Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen 1999 

Dusty red berry and lemon scents, with a dominating crunch of acidity. The fruit 

is ripe, but I’m not sure if there’s really enough to provide balance here. 85? 

Riesling Steinmassel 1999 

Steinmassel is a vineyard that really deserves to be better known. This is slow to 

unfold, but immediately demonstrates its great breed and dimension, with a cloud 

of spicy mineral and floral perfumes. Roundly succulent and broadly aromatic, 

always retaining a powerfully racy undertone that brightens and sets off the 

tangerine and redcurrant fruitiness. Really sleekly built, with tightly-knit harmony 

and a delicately seductive perfume that lingers around the corners of your mouth 

for a long, long time. 93 

Riesling Heiligenstein 1999 

Lemony, racy vibrancy, nearly steely in profile, with a tightly constricted structure. 

Nicely focused depth, like an arrow flying long and straight, and gaining in aroma 

as it moves back on the palate. 90(+?) 

Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 1999 

This comes from 40- to 80-year-old vines, mostly ungrafted and from old clones. 

Pungent and more concentrated than the ‘regular’ Heiligenstein, but equally racy, 

like the same wine elevated to the next level. Hints of orange peel, clarified butter, 

spicy clove and sandalwood, lots of depth and drama encased in a tightly 

constrained structure. Magnificent depth on the palate, gripping, focused, searingly 

uncompromising, taking you for a long, headspinning roller-coaster ride. 

Grand cru finish, expansive and detailed, with an inner core of glory. 94 

Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra 1999 

This comes from young vines trained in the lyre system to maximize sunlight, with 

yields reduced to 25 hl/ha (the same as the Alte Reben). “With the lyre training, 

we get a lot of energy input into the reduced yields,” says Bründlmayer. Pungent 

and intense, but higher-toned than the Alte Reben, with an effusive exuberance. 

White peach, lemon and minerally spiciness, nearly exotic in tone with really 

vibrant inner harmonics. Finishes with density and a racy elegance. This is the 

more joyfully expressive wine right now, with the Alte Reben perhaps reserving 

more for the long haul. 93(+?) 

Recent Vintages 

in the Wachau, 

Kremstal & Kamptal 


Great ripeness, with little botrytis 

and a stunningly pure, 

focused clarity. Potentially the 

greatest vintage of recent times. 

1998 

Unusual weather created unique 

wines: extremely rich, powerful, 

often botrytis-tinged. Can be 

over-alcoholic or over-botrytised, 

but the top producers made 

superb wines. 

1997 

Very warm, with very ripe, 

extremely healthy fruit and 

almost no botrytis at all. The 

only danger was a little overripeness, 

but overall this was 

amazing. 

1996 

Difficult vintage, cool and wet, 

with some botrytis. Late picking 

was the key. 

1995 

A year of high must-weights and 

widespread botrytis. Again, the 

best wines were picked late. 

1994 

A hot year of good quality; 

better overall for Riesling than 

for Grüner Veltliner. 

1993 

High-quality vintage for both dry 

and sweet wines. 

Good older vintages 

1990, 1986, 1983, 1979, 1977, 

1973, 1971, 1969, 1966, 1959, 

1949 

Sadly, very few wines exist from 

vintages before these, thanks to 

the Soviet troops occupying this 

part of Austria from 1945-1955. 


© July/August 2000


Josef Hirsch, Kammern 

“Ninety-nine was a pretty easy vintage in the vineyards,” said Johannes 

Hirsch. “There wasn’t a lot of botrytis, and anyway it could be taken out 

with the first selection, and there was no new botrytis after that.” Hirsch 

thinned 50% of his crop in this prolific vintage, which he cites as a key 

factor for quality, and the wines show it. 

With the 1999 vintage, Hirsch is unveiling a newly streamlined portfolio, 

focusing on six wines plus a little Sekt. They are doing away with reds 

altogether after the 1998 releases, in order to restrict their focus even 

more. “I’m actually working completely against the wine-drinking habits 

of Austrians,” Hirsch laughs. But as his wines demonstrate, his dedication 

to quality, combined with extensive holdings in first-rate vineyards, 

ensures that the name Hirsch will be included in the constellation of 

Austria’s greatest stars. 

Kammerner Grüner Veltliner 1999 

This was formerly labeled Messwein, and still carries the initials ‘MW’ on the label. 

Crisp, clean and nicely ripe, with a bit of peppery herbalness. Perfectly refreshing. 

86 

Grüner Veltliner Heiligenstein 1999 

From the bottom third of the great Heiligenstein hill, where the deeper loess soils 

suit Veltliner and the ‘Burgundian’ varietals. Aromas of snap peas, green apple, 

tarragon and lemongrass, really nicely balanced, finishing with a citrusy delicacy. 

89 

Grüner Veltliner Lamm Alte Reben 1999 

Ried Lamm is located in the middle of the Heiligenstein hill, at the top of the loess 

portion, and Hirsch’s vines here are 38-48 years old. This bottling was formerly 

labeled as Heiligenstein (up through 1998). Pungent, intensely focused nose, 

really vibrant but delicate in weight. Lemon zest, lentil, sautéed peppers and limeblossom, 

developing a creamy, concentrated texture on the back end. This should 

develop very nicely. 92 

Zöbinger Riesling 1999 

This is all from the great vineyard of Gaisberg, and was formerly labeled as such. 

Now it’s simplified so as not to detract from the Alte Reben bottling. Nice intensity, 

youthfully exuberant flavors of pear and white peach, with crisp acidity and a 

roundly harmonious mouthfeel. Unpretentious and absolutely delicious, with 

hidden depth and a stony sense of place lurking underneath the primary fruitiness. 

90 

Riesling Gaisberg Alte Reben 1999 

From 40-year vines. Real old-vine concentration here, pure and harmonious, with 

nearly tropical flavors reined in by a searingly mineral acidity. Delicately expansive 

in the mouth, showing an incredibly crystalline sense of purity – purer than 

the ’98, if not quite as large? Finishes tightly-wound, with long, lingering perfume. 

Exciting. 94 

Riesling Heiligenstein 1999 

Three-quarters of the vines here are over thirty years old, and the rest were 

planted in 1987. A little more overtly geological than the Gaisberg, really racy and 

sleek. Ripely alluring white peach, passionfruit and mandarin orange fruitiness 

lurks playfully on the attack, but this quickly dispenses with the pesky preliminaries 

to pound you with pure, schistous glory. Razor-like finish, really finely-knit. 93 

Finding Austrian 

wines in the U.S. 

Importers 

There are currently three 

primary importers: 

Michael Skurnik/ 

Terry Theise Selections 

Syosset, NY 

Tel. (516) 677-9300 

Fax. (516) 677-9301 

Vin di Vino 

Chicago, IL 

Tel. (773) 334-6700 

Fax. (773) 334-4488 

Weinbauer, Inc. 

Franklin Park, IL 

Tel. (847) 678-0685 

Fax. (847) 678-0713 

Retailers 

This is not a comprehensive list, 

but we applaud these shops for 

their fine Austrian selections. 

Hi-Time Wine Cellars 

Costa Mesa, CA 

Tel. (800) 331-3005 

www.hitimewines.com 

Liner & Elsen Wine Merchants 

Portland, OR 

Tel. (800) 903-9463 

www.linerandelsen.com 

Pop’s Wine & Spirits 

Island Park, NY 

Tel. (516) 431-0025 

www.popswine.com 

Sam’s Wines & Spirits 

Chicago, IL 

Tel. (800) 777-9137 

www.samswine.com 

The Wine House 

San Francisco, CA 

Tel. (800) 966-8468 

www.winehouse-sf.com 

Woodland Hills Wine Company 

Woodland Hills, CA 

Tel. (800) 678-9463 

www.whwineco.com 

The Age of Riesling 

Berkeley, CA 

Tel. (510) 549-2444 


© July/August 2000


Fred Loimer, Langenlois 

Fred Loimer slightly prefers his Grüner Veltliners in ’99 to his Rieslings, 

though he is very happy about this year’s wines in general, saying that 

“they have power and a lot of fruit, and the wines are well-balanced.” 

This estate is firmly in the top rank of Kamptal producers, with a 

discreetly balanced style that combines a pure and crystalline intensity 

with finely ethereal delicacy. Even in the bigger Grüner Veltliners from 

Käferberg and Spiegel, some of which can see a little new wood, that sense 

of clarity and elegance is not lost. 

Although Fred Loimer began to make wine for the estate in 1990, he 

took it over completely from his father only two years ago. With a new 

winery in the making and Loimer’s relentless dedication to quality, we can 

be assured of even greater things to come in the future. 

Riesling Schenkenbichl 1999 (barrel sample) 

Clean, appley-floral fruit, delicately minerally and really nicely balanced. Crisply 

refreshing acidity helps to make you want to drink more. 88-90 

Riesling Seeberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Stony, pure, crystalline, with lovely focus and intense but delicate flavors of white 

peach and currant. Finishes juicy and long. 89-91 

Riesling Steinmassl 1999 (barrel sample) 

More depth and presence than the previous two, with scents of citrus peel, fresh 

butter, sweet herbs, and a pungently mineral undertone. The long, lacy finish is 

like drinking essence of slate. 90-92 

Grüner Veltliner Langenlois 1999 

Clean, richly intense aromas of sweet corn, cooked pears, almond and brown 

lentils, really delightful and harmoniously built. Loimer says that this is “one of the 

two light ones,” along with the ‘Federleichter’ (feather-light), but it’s quite a serious 

wine, despite its lowly designation. Every wine drinker needs to taste this. 87 

Grüner Veltliner Käferberg 1999 (barrel sample) 

Bay leaf, lentil, cardamom pods and a hint of black peppercorns. Very smooth and 

deeply fragrant, really alluring as it shifts in subtly nuanced facets of complexity 

across the palate. There is plenty of buttressing acidity, but this is so round and 

fruity that it comes across as very plush and sexy. 91-93 

Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 1999 (barrel sample) 

Bold, intense, expansive nose, with a wild array of peach skin, vanilla, string bean 

and tarragon aromas. Very compelling, carries some mass but still in the harmoniously 

delicate Loimer style. Really penetrating and perfumed, with wonderful 

persistence and a fine elegance. This is gorgeous. 92-94 

Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Alte Reben 1999 (barrel sample) 

For the ’99, Loimer used a new 2500-liter barrel for less contact with the oak, plus 

a little portion in used 500-liter barrels. Smoky nose, with a better integration of 

fruit and wood, and better definition overall than the ’98. Green lentil, cardamom, 

white pepper and lime scents, great depth and expansive presence, with a lot of 

complexity. Broadly powerful array of concentration on the palate, real focus and 

seamless integration of wood with a superbly dense finish, long and multi-dimensional. 

Fascinating. 92-94 

Please see our special supplement of 1998 tasting notes, available for 

download in the Library of the Riesling Report Web site. 

Fred Loimer 


© July/August 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Kremstal by Peter Liem 

Erich Salomon/Undhof 

THE UNDHOF ESTATE STANDS 

imposingly on a quiet street between 

the towns of Krems and Stein, seemingly 

oblivious to the passage of 

time. Founded in 1614 as a Capuchin 

monastery, it was purchased by the 

Salomon family in 1792, after the 

Order was banished by Emperor 

Josef II. The current proprietor, the 

kind and genial Erich Salomon, is 

the seventh generation of Salomons 

here, and since taking over in 1971 

has put this estate in the top rank of 

the world’s Riesling producers. 

The Salomon family has long 

been active in the trade of wine. It 

was Erich’s grandfather who began 

producing wines, alongside a The 17th century Undhof monastery has been the home of the Salomon family since 1792. 

wholesale business selling wine, 

vinegar and salt. Erich’s father continued to produce and bottle wines at 

the Undhof, and was instrumental in introducing the widespread planting 

of Riesling in the area. When Erich took over the estate, he decided to 

discontinue the wholesale company in order to focus on wine production. 

Salomon’s twenty hectares of vines are divided equally between 

Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. The latter is planted in Wieden, a sandy 

vineyard behind the house, though there is also some on the terraced hillsides, 

most notably in the vineyard of Wachtberg. Riesling is grown exclusively 

in two great vineyards on the steep and rocky slopes: nearly nine 

hectares in Kögl and a hectare and a half in Pfaffenberg. The soils and 

exposures of the two vineyards are very similar, but Kögl lies just a bit 

further away from the Danube, giving the wines a bit more austerity and 

firmer structure in their youth. A portion of the Pfaffenberg vineyard is 

owned by a monastic hospice for the poor in Passau. Salomon manages 

and produces wine from this plot, and returns ten percent of the production 

to the hospice as tithe. 

Erich Salomon’s wines are wonderfully expressive, never the biggest or 

most powerful, but always displaying a finely-toned elegance and aristocratic 

subtlety. Salomon frequently produces dry Spätlese-level Rieslings 

from both Kögl and Pfaffenberg, but with the ’97 vintage, Salomon began 

to use the term ‘Reserve’ rather than ‘Spätlese’, in an effort to make his 

wines more accessible to the international market. In general, he doesn’t 

like botrytis in his dry wines, saying, “I prefer to have fresh fruit.” He 

hastily concedes though, that some may prefer the botrytis style. 


© July/August 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Erich Salomon 

While the estate may be steeped in a long history 

and established tradition, Salomon is not at all resistant 

to change, and is constantly seeking to improve 

upon his already high standards of quality. In 1994, 

Salomon began to change his winemaking techniques, 

employing cultured yeasts and fermenting in controlled 

stainless-steel tanks rather than traditional barrels. He 

also began to press with whole clusters, in a gentler 

machine that presses at less than half the pressure of 

the old one, so that the bitter flavors from the stems 

and seeds are not extracted. The resulting wines seem 

to have an extra touch of purity and sparkle when 

compared with earlier examples, like a jewel that has 

been carefully cut to reflect more light. 

“We don’t really know how these wines will age,” 

says Salomon. “But for now, the fruitiness and primary 

flavors are really wonderful.” Considering the track 

record of this excellent estate, there seems to be very 

little to worry about. 

Tasting Notes 

The standard of quality here is always high, but 

Salomon really has a terrific collection of wines in 1999, 

perhaps even better than the superlative 1997s. I often 

think of Salomon as I do of Fritz Haag in the Mosel: 

they are never showy wines, there is never a lot of flash, 

but for the patient and attentive taster they offer 

tremendous purity, a discreetly refined elegance and 

razor-like definition. 

Erich Salomon 


Grüner Veltliner Hochterrassen 1999 

Vibrant nose, with fresh aromas of cassis, lime and green beans sautéed in butter. 

Light and crisp, this delectably juicy quaffer keeps you coming back for more. 87 

Riesling Kögl 1999 

Smoky and intensely slatey, with tightly-knit aromas of pear, cassis, green apple 

and mint. Wound-up in a racy, aerodynamic build, finely delineated and very 

harmonious, lingering in richly aromatic presence. This really shows off the fine 

tones of the vintage, and will last a long time. 93 

Riesling Pfaffenberg 1999 

A bit rounder and more forgiving than the stern austerity of the Kögl, with plenty 

of support but a roundly silky fruitiness and upfront appeal as well. Grapefruit, 

pear and strawberry notes, underlined by a nearly salty minerality. Finishes with 

juicy acidity and a long, subtle fragrance. 92 

Riesling Kögl Reserve 1999 

Vibrant, perfumed, minerally, with a menthol edge. Explosive array of quince, fig, 

dried pears; carries a lot of mass but encases it in a sleekly racy package. Rich 

presence and texture, expansively aromatic, with a peacock’s tail of a finish: long, 

complex, multi-dimensional. This will be glorious. 94 


© July/August 2000


1998 

Grüner Veltliner Undhof Wieden Reserve 1998 

Harvested at Spätlese level, but Salomon now prefers to call this ‘Reserve’. Slightly 

smoky concentration of sweet potato, fennel and apricot, picking up a little citrus 

peel in the mouth. Fragrant, with elegant depth and lots of grace, expanding 

superbly on the back end with quiet finesse and tightly-wound perfume. 91 

Riesling Kögl 1998 

White peach, vanilla bean, redcurrant, chocolate, wrapped in smoky, minerally 

perfume. Firmly built and destined for the long haul, yet its silky, buttery texture 

is so alluring that it makes you want to revel in its intensity right now. Ultrarefined, 

teasing you with a floral fragrance on the finish but only hinting at the 

promise to come. 91 

Riesling Pfaffenberg 1998 

Orange and red berry perfume, a hint of toffee, and again a near-salty chalkiness. 

Finely floral and expressive, with delicately expansive perfume on the back end. 

This seems to have a little more breed and dimension than the Kögl – it will be 

fascinating to watch these evolve together. 92 

Riesling Steinterrassen 1998 

Fermentation stopped naturally at just over 8 g/l residual sugar, and although 

Salomon prefers not to retain sugar in his wines, he dislikes excessive manipulation 

even more. The little bit of sugar here provides rich girth and creamy ripeness, 

tethered by a smoky, flinty stoniness. This hasn’t the complexity or the breed of 

the two single-vineyard wines, but it’s well-balanced and delicious, finishing with 

nice length and vibrant acidity. 88 

Older vintages 

Riesling Kögl Reserve 1997 

Typically slatey, with lemon peel aromas, a spicy stoniness, and a touch of 

garrigue-like herbaceousness. There is a touch of botrytis here that adds girth and 

character, but it’s supported very nicely – in fact, it’s only really noticeable in 

direct comparison with the incredibly pure ’99. Finishes long, with citrusy 

perfume. 91 

Riesling Kögl Spätlese 1994 

This was the first vintage using the new press and stainless-steel tanks. Very 

vibrant and adolescent nose, lingering on the edge of acquiring secondary dried 

pear and fig aromas, backed by alluring scents of coffee and caramel cream. When 

I commented on the youthful profile of this wine, Salomon replied, “Ninety-four 

was not a perfect year. But the ‘medium’ years tend to age better than the ‘perfect’ 

years. It could be the acidity.” The palate is sleekly explosive, with a creamy 

texture but a lemony raciness and perfume that seems to pick up all the other 

flavors and set them in motion. Finishes very long, with a juicy core of fruit, 

aromatic and finely-toned. Lovely wine. 93(+?) 

Riesling Kögl Spätlese 1992 

Compared to the previous wine, there is here a more pronounced petrol aroma, 

along with a slight stemminess. “The big difference between ’92 and ’94 is the 

press,” Salomon insists. It’s certainly believable, as this has a broad and nearly 

rustic profile next to the bright clarity of the ’94. Nicely expansive fragrance, with 

hints of butter, toffee, figs, smoke and licorice. Juicy acidity provides a lively 

balance, lingering through a long and complex finish. This seems like it’s just 

beginning to show really well. 89 

WEINGUT ERICH 

SALOMON, UNDHOF 



Average production 

100 000 bottles 

Varieties 

Grüner Veltliner 50% 

Riesling 50% 

Top Vineyards 

Kremser Kögl 

Steiner Pfaffenberg 

Contact Information 

Undstrasse 10 

3504 Krems-Stein 

Tel: 02732/83226 

Fax: 02732/83226-78 

E-mail: salomon@undhof.at 

www.undhof.at/salomon 

Visits strictly by appointment. 

Erich Salomon is warm and 

hospitable, and speaks excellent 

English. 


© July/August 2000


Riesling Pfaffenberg Spätlese 1990 

Lemon cream, orange peel, white raisin and freshly roasted 

coffee beans, with a hint of licorice. Round and supple, 

harmoniously wound around an inner core of gloriously ripe 

orange and tangerine citrus. Very youthful in profile, barely 

beginning to show its true complexity. Long and effortlessly 

expansive on the back end, very nicely textured, with a firm 

but balanced acidic structure. There is a bit of stemminess, 

but much less pronounced than in the previous wine. 91 

Riesling Kögl Auslese 1995 

“Auslese here is a very rare product,” says Salomon. “It 

happens maybe once in ten years.” White peach, fresh apricot, 

apple jelly and a hint of prunes, with a strongly stony 

perfume underneath. Slightly glassy in texture, but with 

marvelous clarity and harmony. Crescendos in the mouth to a 

fragrant and gently piercing back end, firmly buttressed by 

plenty of acidity that balances the residual sugar. This will 

need years to develop. 92 

Riesling Pfaffenberg Auslese 1995 

Darker in tone than the Kögl, dried plums, dried figs, smoky 

and slightly musky. Very well-built nose, expansively 

aromatic, with a touch of buttery petrol. The palate reveals 

flavors of cocoa and white raisin, roundly textured with lots of 

dimension. Finishes with citrusy-floral perfume and a very 

elegant harmony. 93 

A centuries-old wine press at Erich Salomon’s Undhof estate. 

Riesling Kögl Trockenbeerenauslese 1995 

Only 90 liters of this were made. “There is no label, no approval number. It’s just 

to drink with friends,” said Salomon. “I’ve never done this before, and I think I’ll 

never do it again. But it was such a thrill to make a TBA.” Lovely, honeyed aromas 

of candied orange, dried apricot, rhubarb, fresh cream and cocoa powder, already 

very vibrant and complex. Velvety concentration on the palate, but with plenty of 

racy acidity, very harmonious, finely-tuned and sleekly opulent. Finishes long, 

mysterious, ethereally perfumed. Glorious wine. 95 


© July/August 2000

RIESLING CUISINE by Kirk Wille 

Long nights in the lab 

WE KEEP TELLING YOU THAT AUSTRIAN WINES make incredible food 

partners, but so far we’ve done little to prove it. Challenge accepted. In the 

first of what promises to be a long and frequent series of experimental 

food and wine sessions, we set out to nail down some specifics about what 

wines work best with which foods. In this case, the wines of Austria. 

Now, Peter and I are both fairly adept in the kitchen and love to cook. 

But for a project this important, we needed professional assistance. So we 

went to Cathy Whims, one of our finest chefs here in Portland, Oregon. 

Cathy owns Genoa, the nonna veneranda of fine Italian cooking in Portland, 

and perennially ranked as one of the top two restaurants in town. 

Resolutely flying in the face of the conventional wisdom that says the 

best food for a particular wine necessarily comes from the same region, we 

began with the hypothesis that, in this modern world, a wine must 

succeed with many cuisines to be considered truly world class. Thus, 

Cathy (who already loves Austrian wines, by the way) did nothing different 

to accommodate the wines. She just cooked Italian like she always 

cooks Italian and let the sips fall where they may. 

A fresh beginning 

While Cathy and her husband, David, got to work in their tiny, cookbookfilled 

kitchen, we poured the first wine to whet our palates. You can’t 

really do good work in the kitchen without a glass of wine, anyway, so out 

popped the cork of the 1999 Hirsch Kammener Grüner Veltliner. Perfectly 

refreshing. A light, crackling wine, it gives you that rubbing-your-handstogether, 

let’s-get-down-to-it type of energy. Later we would find that it is 

probably one of the few wines that actually works with bitter greens such 

as arugula, bringing out earthy flavors and adding complexity. 

Before we sat down to salad and appetizers, Peter poured around a 

taste of wine number two. At first sniff I knew it was Grüner Veltliner, and 

when I glanced at the label I said, “Oh, this must be the 1998 Bründlmayer 

we tasted the other day.” Peter’s reply was a laconic, “Um, no, I’m pretty 

sure you haven’t tasted this wine before.” So I took a sip. Astonishing! The 

nose was fresh and spicy like young GV, only deeper and more harmonious. 

But it was a different story on the palate – gloriously rich and ripe, 

and completely seamless. 

So that’s the big news here: not only does Grüner Veltliner age incredibly 

well, but we discovered that the two older wines actually made better 

companions for food. Usually you expect that you’ll need a young, lasciviously 

fruity, crunchily acidic wine to stand up to strong flavors or rich 

textures. Old wines, we often think, will be too delicate to pair with food. 

Best drink them on their own. But these wise old fellows taught us a trick 

or two. Especially with the sweeter fruit components – the peach, fig, and 

cantaloupe – these wines not only held their own, they actually enhanced 

the flavors, making the whole dish more thrilling. 

The foods 

Salad – bitter greens, peaches, 

figs, prosciutto and manchego 

Rotoli di Prosciutto – chard, 

toasted pine nuts, garlic and 

currants sautéed in olive oil and 

rolled up in prosciutto slices 

Pasta Melone – sautéed chunks 

of cantaloupe(!) finished with 

cream, a bit of tomato paste 

and cracked pepper 

Spaghettini tossed with basil, 

prosciutto and olive oil 

Salmon en agrodulce – 

marinated and grilled 

The wines 

1999 Hirsch Kammener GV 

1979 Bründlmayer 

Kirchengarten GV 

1998 Bründlmayer Langenloiser 

Steinmassel Riesling 

1998 Nigl Senftenberger Piri 

Privat GV 

1990 Salomon Pfaffenberg 

Riesling Reserve 

1998 Heidi Schröck Zweigelt 


© July/August 2000

RIESLING CUISINE | Italian food with Austrian wine 

“It’s really amazing,” said Cathy, “how the wine actually brings more 

peachiness out of the peach.” We all lustily concurred in quickly snorted 

affirmatives between greedy mouthfuls. 

Moving on, we found that mature GV also works deliciously well with 

rich, oily foods like the rotoli (roll-ups). The lush, silky texture of the wine 

wraps itself beautifully around the prosciutto packets – a rotolo within a 

rotolo! It’s only when we got to the spicy, peppery spaghettini dish that the 

older wines failed to keep pace. Here the younger wines, especially the Nigl 

Piri Privat GV, shone more brightly. Not only did the pepperiness of the 

wine match that of the pasta, the wine’s crisp acidity provided the palatecleansing 

effect we’re so familiar with in German wines. The Nigl had also 

shown very nicely with the roll-ups, but more in counterpoint with the 

complex of flavors than with the harmonious melding of the older GV. 

The younger of the two Rieslings, Bründlmayer’s 1998 from the 

Langenloiser Steinmassel vineyard, worked best with the melon pasta. It 

was too vibrant and spritzy to be a good match for the fig or peach, but the 

perfumed Riesling fruit matched the melon well. But here again, the 

wisdom of maturity won out over youthful exuberance. The classic aged 

bouquet of the 1990 Salomon Pfaffenberg Riesling Reserve dovetailed 

marvelously with the fresh melon flavor. It also had a lovely touch of 

earthiness in the mid-palate that made the richness of the creamy pasta all 

the more evocative. This was one of those rare synergistic combinations 

where wine and food improved each other equally. 

As the evening progressed we dared to venture some predictions about 

how the wines would pair with the salmon. Upon first tasting the Nigl my 

wife, Ellisa, more a foodie than a rabid wino, proclaimed with no uncertainty 

that the aggressive pineapple and persimmon in the wine would go 

great with the fennel and mustard in the salmon marinade. With much 

pride (and only a smattering of envy for not saying it first) I report that she 

was absolutely correct. The aromas of the wine and salmon intertwined 

like a Rodin kiss, and the formidable power of the wine matched the 

density of the Copper River salmon. 

Our only red wine of the evening was Heidi Schröck’s 1998 Zweigelt. 

It’s only chance was with the salmon and it didn’t squander the opportunity 

to shine. After all those razor-sharp white wines, the buttery oakiness 

of the Zweigelt seemed a bit out of place, but the flavors blended well and 

the wine’s weight and texture made another, if altogether dissimilar, strikingly 

fine match with the meaty salmon. 

What I learned at dinner today 

• A young, aggressive Austrian Grüner Veltliner is possibly the only 

wine that enhances bitter greens. You should definitely try it soon. 

• Just because a wine is mature doesn’t mean it’s fragile or brittleboned. 

Mature Austrian whites hold their own texturally and display an 

amazing ability to enhance harmoniously the foods they accompany. 

• Young top-quality Austrian whites make attractive partners for many 

foods in the “opposites attract” category. Like a Bach fugue, they can 

provide a dazzling contrapuntal line that weaves around the flavors of the 

dish, creating an entirely new culinary experience. 

Cathy Whims, chef and owner of Portland’s 

top-rated Genoa restaurant, graciously gave 

up her night off to join us in our first round 

of gourmandish experimenting. Her 

husband, David (owner of one of the most 

venerable beer joints in town) does prep 

work in the background. 

Cathy’s marinade for 

Salmon en agrodolce 

(enough marinade for 2 or 3 

pounds of skinless salmon fillet) 

2 Tbs lemon juice 

1-1/2 tsp salt 

2-3/4 Tbs Dijon mustard 

2 tsp chopped fennel greens 

2-3/4 Tbs sugar 

1/4 tsp ground fennel seed 

Simply cut the salmon into the 

portions you want and then 

marinate, tightly covered, in the 

refrigerator overnight. Broil or 

grill to your liking. Crack open a 

bottle of Austrian wine and let 

the music commence. 


© July/August 2000

THE LAST PAGE 

Rating the wines 

WINES ARE ASSESSED BASED ON THEIR perceived 

total potential lifespan. In an ideal world, prose would 

be the only language required, but of course we humans 

have a penchant for categorization and qualitative 

organization. Therefore, despite its flaws, we have 

chosen to include a numerical score in our notes, based 

on a hundred-point scale. We stress that the text of the 

tasting notes is the matter of importance, and that the 

score apart from the text is divested of meaning. A (+?) 

indicates the potential for an increased score. 

Tasting notes are by individual tasters, and not 

composites of a panel. We document who is tasting the 

wine, where, and when the wine is being tasted, as all 

three of these elements are crucial to the contextual 

understanding of the notes. In addition, lot numbers 

are provided whenever possible, and especially AP 

numbers for German wines. In general, unless otherwise 

noted, all tasting notes are Peter’s. 

Prices quoted are the current average retail on the 

West Coast of the United States. 

Next Issue – Alsace 

IN THE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ISSUE OF RIESLING REPORT we’ll 

take you on a tour through the charming and picturesque fairy tale land 

along the Rhine called Alsace. During our visit in April, we spoke to a lot 

of winemakers and tasted many, many wines. 

Naturally, our report will feature the region’s powerful and sophisticated 

Rieslings. But since Alsace is also the source of amazing wines from 

several other notable white wine varieties, we’ll be telling you about them, 

too. Once you taste some of these beauties, you’ll find yourself frantically 

digging through every dusty shelf at your local wine shop for more magical 

Muscat, more luscious late-harvest Tokay Pinot Gris and another sip 

of glorious Gewürztraminer. 

Our first Alsace issue also will include reviews of these great estates: 

• Domaine Faller/Weinbach 

• Leon Beyer 

Thanks 

Special thanks to all the producers in this issue for their generosity and 

hospitality. Special thanks too to Cathy Whims for her enthusiasm, hospitality 

and culinary splendor. 

THE RIESLING REPORT RATING SCALE 

95–100 Classic. A perfect example of its type. 

The holy grail of all wine lovers, these 

are wines that stop time and transport 

you to a higher plane of existence. 

90–94 Exceptional. A superbly crafted wine 

with extraordinary attributes. 

85–89 Above average. Wines showing 

character, distinction and interest. 

80–84 Average. A drinkable wine, but without 

any special distinction. 

75–79 Below average. An underachiever. 

75 or less Poor or flawed. 

Only wines rated 85 or better will appear in this 

magazine. These are our personal recommendations. 

Complete tasting notes can be found in the Members 

Only area of the Riesling Report Web site: 

www.rieslingreport.com 


© July/August 2000

Austria's 1999 vintage - Riesling Report

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?