The Best of Cambodia & Laos

5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH
OUDONG
Following defeat at Angkor by the Thais, the Khmer capital moved to Oudong, and
kings ruled from there for more than 100 years until the power center shifted to nearby
Phnom Penh in 1866. The area was a monastic center, and the 13th-century temples,
like most others, pale in comparison to those of the Angkor complex. Still, the hills of
Oudong offer breathtaking views. It’s 1 hour west of Phnom Penh and is best reached by
rented vehicle.
PHNOM CHISOR & TONLE BATI
If you’ve been or are going to Angkor Wat, these temples will pale in comparison, but the
ride through the countryside and among rural villages makes for a good day. Tonle Bati
(33km/21 miles south of Phnom Penh) is a small collection of Angkor-style temples.
Entrance costs $3. Nearby Phnom Chisor is a group of 10th-century ruins atop a picturesque
hill. Phnom Penh travel agents can make all the arrangements.
6 SHOPPING & GALLERIES
The best shopping in town, for everything from souvenirs and trinkets to the obligatory
kitchen sink, is at any of the large local markets. The Central Market (see “Phnom Penh
Attractions,” earlier in this chapter) shouldn’t be missed, but the Russian Market
between streets 440 and 450 in the far south of town is where the real deal on souvenirs
can be had (go by moto or tuk-tuk). It takes hard haggling to get the good deals on items
like opium paraphernalia, carvings, and ceramics. It’s all authentic looking, even if made
in China. Given Cambodia’s large garment industry for export, it is no surprise that some
goods “fall off the back of the truck” in transit and end up here. It’s a good place to buy
brand names at a fraction of their normal retail price.
Shops and galleries are growing in ever-increasing numbers in the developing capital.
All along Street 178, interesting little outlets are springing up and include a few affordable
silk dealers like Sayon Silkworks, just west of the National Museum on Street 178.
Asasax Art Gallery, No. 192 St. 178 (& 012/217-795; www.asasaxart.com.kh), features
unique local works. Silk & Pepper at No. 33Eo St. 178 (& 023/222-692) has some
great silk accessories and kimonos. Take a stroll along Street 240, which is home to a
fantastic cafe culture and a few antiques shops and boutiques like Bliss, No. 29 St. 240
(& 023/215-754), which sells some unique beaded and embroidered cushions and
quilts; or Le Lezard Bleu (No. 61 St. 240; & 023/986-978 or 012/406-294), which
features traditional and contemporary artwork and top-notch framing.
Bazar, at 28 Sihanouk Blvd., near the Independence Monument (& 012/776-492),
has a small but refined collection of Asian antiques and furniture.
For upscale, original clothing look no further than Ambre at No. 37 St. 178
(& 023/217-935; closed Sun). This two-story store carries the whimsical, beautifully cut
designs of Cambodian-born, France-raised Romyda Keth. Keth has a love affair with
jersey and often layers clothing with funky embroidery or gorgeous swaths of organza.
For CDs, MP3 recordings, DVDs, and cool T-shirts and hip-hop fashions, stop by the
Boom Boom Room, on Street 93 in the backpacker area near Boeung Kak Lake or at
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PHNOM PENH 5
SHOPPING & GALLERIES