The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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80 PHNOM PENH 5 PHNOM PENH ATTRACTIONS add-ons. The Fat Boy sub packing 2 pounds of meat is for real aficionados of the sub at its finest and indeed its largest. The Deli at No. 13 St. 178 (& 012/851-234) is a favorite among the expats in town for a good sandwich and excellent pastries. The Shop is a stylish cafe on popular Street 240 (& 023/986-964) and now has a new location on the north end of Sisowath Quay. Come here for baked goods (try the raspberry chocolate tart), filling panini, fresh soups, tea, and coffee in a friendly and comfortable storefront at each location. There are neat details like butcher-block tables and fresh flowers, and they can arrange picnic lunches for day trips from Phnom Penh. Chocoholics must visit Chocolate by The Shop (No. 35 St. 240; & 023/998-638) next door, which serves fantastic truffles and bonbons all for reasonable prices. The fiery chocolate sprinkled with pepper from Kampot makes a great gift. Sugar Palm (No. 19 St. 240; & 023/220-956) serves good Khmer dishes at streetside or from their upstairs balcony. It’s a gallery that features good local crafts and a good place to relax and enjoy real Khmer atmosphere and good treats. 4 PHNOM PENH ATTRACTIONS Phnom Penh is fairly compact and most sights are not far from the central riverfront area. You can walk, but be prepared for a fairly nerve-racking time dealing with the traffic. Alternatively, you can hire a tuk-tuk or motodup for the day. The Russian market is in the south of town away from the center. Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields can be visited together, and arrangements can be made at any hotel lobby. For information on companies that run tours, see p. 86. Central Market This Art Deco (called Psar Thmei in Khmer) behemoth, built in 1937, is a city landmark and, on any given day, a veritable anthill of activity. The building is a towering cruciform rotunda with four wings. The eastern entrance is the best spot to find T-shirts, hats, and all manner of trinkets and souvenirs, as well as photocopied bootlegs of popular novels and books on Cambodia. Goldsmiths and watch-repair and -sales counters predominate in the main rotunda, and you can find some good deals. Spend some time wandering the nooks and crannies, though, and you’re sure to come across something that strikes your fancy, whether that’s a chaotic hardware shop, a cobbler hard at work with an awl, or just the cacophony and carnival-barker shouts of salesmen and haggling shoppers. Be sure to bargain for any purchase. The Russian Market or Psar Toul Tom Poung (p. 87) is actually far better for shopping, unless you are after luxury goods, in which case stick with Psar Thmei. Btw. sts. 126 and 136 in the town center. Daily 5am–5pm. Independence Monument Built in the late 1950s to commemorate Cambodia’s independence from the French on November 9, 1953, this towering obelisk is crowned with Khmer Nagas and was designed to deliberately echo Angkorian architecture. The area is at its most majestic when all lit up at night. South of the town center at the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk. The Killing Fields & Choeung Ek Memorial This was originally a Chinese cemetery before becoming an execution ground for the Khmer Rouge during their maniacal reign under Pol Pot from 1975 to 1979. Choeung Ek is one of many mass
ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217) 219 205 Nehru Nehru Blvd. Blvd. 70 70 Kampuchea Kampuchea Krom Krom Blvd. Blvd. (128) (128) Phnom Penh Attractions, Shopping & Nightlife NIGHTLIFE Howie’s Bar 7 Love Orange 21 Pontoon Lounge 4 Riverhouse Lounge 5 Rubies Wine Bar 20 Bridge Bridge Changvar Changvar Old Stadium Chruoy Chruoy 80 Monivong Monivong Blvd. Blvd. Conf. Conf. de de la la Russie Russie Jok Jok Dimitrov Dimitrov Blvd. Blvd. 182 182 336 336 22 199 199 0 Boeng Kak Lake Olympic Stadium 310 310 193 193 173 173 284 284 0 0.25 km 1/4 mi 118 118 134 134 139 139 108 108 164 164 182 75 75 France France St. St. (47) (47) Charles Charles De De Gaulle Gaulle Blvd. Blvd. (217) (217) Tito Tito Blvd. Blvd. 232 242 Sihanouk Sihanouk Blvd. Blvd. 163 163 1 360 166 166 143 143 113 113 330 23 86 86 107 107 288 300 61 61 92 92 96 96 368 386 106 106 108 108 105 105 154 154 350 Mao Mao Zedong Zedong Blvd. Blvd. 432 63 63 Monivong Monivong Blvd. Blvd. Sisowath Sisowath Quay Quay 90 90 118 118 130 130 51 51 19 19 13 13 15 15 Norodom Norodom Blvd. Blvd. 144 144 154 154 178 178 178 178 184 184 184 184 278278 278278 28 U.S. Embassy Embassy (Japanese (Japanese Friendship Friendship Bridge) Bridge) 8 2 3 Central Market 6 24 63 63 288 288 Tonlé Sap River 7 214 214 228 228 242 242 302 302 63 63 51 51 25 322 322 57 57 9 51 51 360 360 KBAL THNAL Tourist Boat Dock 4 Norodom Norodom Blvd. Blvd. 5 240 240 19 19 Sothearos Sothearos Sisowath Sisowath Quay Quay Sothearos Sothearos Independence Monument 26 Sihanouk Blvd. 27 21 21 SHOPPING Ambre 8 Asasax Art Gallery 11 Bazar 27 Bliss 18 The Boom Boom Room (Boeng Kak Lake) 1 The Boom Boom Room (Boeung Keng Kang) 25 Central Market 3 D’s Books (Street 240) 16 D’s Books (Street 178) 13 Le Lezard Bleu 17 Lucky Market CHRUOY 24 Monument CHANGVAR Books 15 Russian Market 28 Sayon Silkworks 9 Silk & Pepper 12 Sorya Shopping Center 6 Veggy’s 19 12 11 13 10 Royal Palace 14 18 19 17 16 20 Silver Pagoda 15 21 258 Bus Station Post Office Taxi Stand ATTRACTIONS Central Market 3 Independence Monument 26 The Killing Fields & Choeung Ek Memorial 22 National Museum 10 Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda 14 Tuol Sleng (Museum of Genocide) 23 Wat Phnom 2 Bassac River 81 PHNOM PENH 5 PHNOM PENH ATTRACTIONS
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
Page 41 and 42: Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
Page 43 and 44: Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
Page 45 and 46: 3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
Page 47 and 48: spend the night in Poipet, but this
Page 49 and 50: can be cold due to excessive air-co
Page 51 and 52: Come Armed with Singles We recommen
Page 53 and 54: the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
Page 55 and 56: are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
Page 57 and 58: cater to travelers with disabilitie
Page 59 and 60: General Resources for Green Travel
Page 61 and 62: INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
Page 63 and 64: 0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
Page 65 and 66: 2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
Page 67 and 68: Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
Page 69 and 70: Sao Market to shop for special Lao
Page 71 and 72: Founded in the mid-14th century by
Page 73 and 74: The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
Page 75 and 76: 2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
Page 77 and 78: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 79 and 80: No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
Page 81 and 82: Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
Page 83 and 84: Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
Page 85 and 86: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 87 and 88: Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
Page 89 and 90: completely punitive. They also have
Page 91: Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
Page 95 and 96: The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
Page 97 and 98: SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
Page 99 and 100: 5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
Page 101 and 102: (& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
Page 103 and 104: The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
Page 105 and 106: The ruins of the ancient city of An
Page 107 and 108: 1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
Page 109 and 110: 10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
Page 111 and 112: Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
Page 113 and 114: combo and sinks set in unique overs
Page 115 and 116: fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
Page 117 and 118: Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
Page 119 and 120: NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
Page 121 and 122: Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
Page 123 and 124: Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
Page 125 and 126: Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
Page 127 and 128: 0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
Page 129 and 130: To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
Page 131 and 132: The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
Page 133 and 134: Enter the temple from the west, the
Page 135 and 136: Westerners until a French researche
Page 137 and 138: Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
Page 139 and 140: Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
Page 141 and 142: A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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