The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name in French suggests, the Jardin Café is as
much garden as it is cafe. It is set up specifically with families in mind. In a city as wild and
hectic as Phnom Penh where you have to keep a close eye on the little ones at all times, it
serves as a refuge where the children can run riot in the sand pit or charge about waving
something plastic with wheels on it from the large collection of toys on offer. You, meanwhile,
can order herbal tea or a glass of chilled chardonnay while gently perusing the menu
listing a fine selection of tapas and barbecue. After dark the place takes on an atmosphere
of rural calm bathed in gentle, leafy lighting. The food is light. The “Tartine de Terrine de
Chèvre a la Sicillienne” is particularly delicious. Given the makeup of its daytime clientele
it is no surprise that Le Jardin Café serves excellent homemade ice cream.
No. 16 St. 360. & 011/723-399. Main courses $3.50–$5. Daily 8am–10pm.
Talkin’ to a Stranger WESTERN/KHMER This garden bar and restaurant is
quite hard to find but well worth the effort when you arrive. It is deservedly a very
popular after-work meeting venue for many expats. The Australian management is
delightful and the place is now a Phnom Penh institution. The relaxed garden setting is
often the scene of musical and art events. They serve excellent food, with a menu that
changes often. The food is always superb, generally offering a fusion of gourmet European
and traditional Khmer. You might arrive here a stranger, but the convivial nature of
the surroundings and the other people around you mean that you won’t remain a stranger
for very long. Talkin’ is closed on weekends.
No. 21b St. 294. 012/798-530. Main courses $6. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight.
OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS
Inexpensive
Boddhi Tree Umma ASIAN/KHMER Include lunch here with a trip to nearby
Tuol Sleng Museum (see “Phnom Penh Attractions,” below), a sight that doesn’t inspire
an appetite, really, but the Boddhi Tree is a peaceful oasis and not a bad spot to collect
your thoughts after visiting vestiges of Cambodia’s late troubles. Named for the tree
under which the Buddha “saw the light,” this verdant little garden courtyard and roughhewn
guesthouse has comfy balcony and courtyard seating and seems to serve up as
much calm as the coffee, tea, and light fare that make it so popular. There are daily
specials and often visiting chefs. All the curries are good, and they have great baguette
sandwiches. Established in 1997 as a way to drum up funds and support to help Khmer
kids and families in challenging circumstances, the folks here welcome your suggestions
and invite visitors to get involved in their important work.
No. 50 St. 113, Beong Keng Kong (across from Tuol Sleng Museum). & 023/211-397. www.boddhitree.
com. Main courses $2–$4. No credit cards. Daily 7am–9pm.
SNACKS & CAFES
Java Café and Gallery, 56 Sihanouk Blvd. (& 023/987-420), is a good spot in town to
relax and escape the midday heat. Just south of the main sights (near the Independence
Monument), this popular second-story oasis has casual seating on a large balcony and an
open gallery interior. They serve real coffee, cappuccino, good cakes, and other baked
goods; they sometimes feature live music in the evening. It’s open daily from 7am to 10pm.
Fat Boy at No. 124 St. 130 (& 012/704-500) is a submarine sandwich shop that is
making waves. It serves up the best American-style subs in town, generously made-toorder
on fresh baked just-like-home breads and rolls. Good choices include the Italian
sub and imported roast beef sub, and all subs come with a big selection of sauces and
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PHNOM PENH 5
WHERE TO DINE