The Best of Cambodia & Laos

completely punitive. They also have free Wi-Fi at decent speeds and during working
hours you will see many people sunk in labor.
241 Sisowath Quay. & 023/220-554. Main courses $6.50. MC, V. Daily 7am–1am.
Le Deauville FRENCH This open-air French bar and brasserie is a good, mellow
choice. On the north end of the Wat Phnom roundabout, Le Deauville serves fine,
affordable French and Khmer dishes. The atmosphere is unpretentious and cozy, with a
large open bar at its center, and tables scattered in the street-side courtyard that is
shielded from the traffic by a wall of potted greenery. Daily lunch set menus give you a
choice of salad and entree, and you can choose from local specialties like filet of Mekong
fish with lime or fine medallion de boeuf. The restaurant serves good pizzas and spaghetti
and has a wine list that fits any taste and budget. Be sure to ask about Le Deauville II,
the large dining barge that makes regular city cruises or can be chartered; aboard the ship,
you can enjoy similar fine French cuisine as in this casual bistro. Le Deauville is a popular
spot for a relaxed drink in the evening.
St. 94 (just north of Wat Phnom). & 012/843-204. Main courses $4.50–$12. V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Pacharan SPANISH This is a hip place serving reliable tapas. They’ve got all the
favorites: patatas bravas, cured meats, Spanish tortillas—the list goes on. In keeping with
tapas spirit, portions are small and you’re meant to order many different plates to share
among friends. The calamari is excellent, but I advise you to skip the lackluster chicken
croquettes. They also have a fine selection of Spanish wines.
389 Sisowath Quay. & 023/224-394. Tapas $2–$10. MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.
Pink Elephant WESTERN/THAI/KHMER Founded by an amiable and softspoken
Yorkshire man named Dave in the mid-’90s, the Pink Elephant remains a place
to sample English cooking at its stodgy best. The original owner is, sadly, no longer with
us, but the present Khmer management does a great job of keeping alive the flame in the
shape of pies, chips, baked beans, and tea. They also serve excellent pizzas and Thai food.
The green curry is very good indeed. Their Khmer food is very much up to speed. The
lok lak stands out.
343 Sisowath Quay. No phone. Main courses $4.50. Daily 9am–midnight.
Romdeng KHMER Romdeng serves tasty Khmer food in an atmospheric
French colonial house. Run by the same NGO as Friends Restaurant (see below), the
menu is similar, but the decor is a bit cozier with small, separate dining areas, and alfresco
seating set around a small outdoor pool and garden. Try the fish and pumpkin curry in
coconut sauce—a delicious savory dish that packs just the right amount of spice and is
big enough for two. If you’re feeling game, they also serve deep-fried tarantulas (yes, as
in the spider) with lime sauce.
No. 74 St. 174. & 092/219-565. www.mithsamlanh.org. Main courses $4.50–$6.25. V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Inexpensive
Friends (Mith Samlanh) Restaurant KHMER/INTERNATIONAL Not to
be missed is this friendly little gem, an NGO (nongovernment organization) project
where Khmer street kids are given shelter and taught useful skills for their reintegration
into society. It’s a unique opportunity to meet friendly mentors and young folks who’ve
found a new lease on life. The food is great, too, an ever-changing tapas menu of local
and international favorites like spring rolls, fried rice, good salads, and a host of desserts.
This is a great spot to cool off and have a light bite while touring the city center (it’s right
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WHERE TO DINE