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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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76<br />

PHNOM PENH<br />

5<br />

WHERE TO DINE<br />

Happy Herb’s Pizza WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL <strong>The</strong> first <strong>of</strong> the famous<br />

“Happy” Phnom Penh pizza joints has a great location overlooking the river. It serves<br />

Khmer food, salads, pasta, and, <strong>of</strong> course, pizza. “Happy” Pizza is sprinkled with marijuana,<br />

just so you know. Happy Herb’s has been much copied but never bettered. <strong>The</strong><br />

feta salad is superb and the regular pizza, with absolutely no marijuana, remains the best<br />

in Phnom Penh by a long shot.<br />

No. 345 Sisowath Quay. & 012/921-915. Main courses $3.50–$5.50. No credit cards. Daily 11am–midnight.<br />

Huxley’s INTERNATIONAL Huxley’s may not actually be a brave new world, but<br />

it certainly is a leap in the right direction. It is a surprisingly authentic English pub with<br />

long stretched hardwood stairs, complemented by a waterfall, wood paneling, and smatterings<br />

<strong>of</strong> British knickknacks. Although a few <strong>Cambodia</strong>n-fare items are sprinkled in,<br />

Huxley’s menu is distinctly English, <strong>of</strong>fering daily specials such as scotch egg (an English<br />

delicacy, despite its name, consisting <strong>of</strong> a hard-boiled egg wrapped in pork sausage meat,<br />

breaded, and lightly fried), bangers and mash, and steak and stout pie. <strong>The</strong>ir cottage pie<br />

is also excellent although the signature dish is, not surprisingly, fish and chips. On Sundays,<br />

Huxley’s serves a traditional English roast dinner <strong>of</strong> either pork or beef. <strong>The</strong> downstairs<br />

bar is a little small and cramped but the upstairs area sports rattan chairs, balconies,<br />

and sports on big-screen TVs. <strong>The</strong>y do not accept credit cards but there is an ATM in<br />

the pub.<br />

No. 30–32 corner <strong>of</strong> sts. 136 and 5. & 023/986-602. Main courses $5–$10. No credit cards. Daily 11am–<br />

1am.<br />

K West WESTERN/KHMER In the lobby <strong>of</strong> the Amanjaya Hotel, one <strong>of</strong><br />

Phnom Penh’s coolest boutique properties (p. 63), is this chic little international bar and<br />

bistro. It is French owned and managed, and the menu covers all the bases. <strong>The</strong>y feature<br />

an array <strong>of</strong> savory salads. Fine pastas are made fresh and cooked to order, and there are<br />

seafood specials and a host <strong>of</strong> good Khmer dishes, as well as snacks and sides. Dessert<br />

includes a lime-and-lemon torte, banana splits, and a dish called “<strong>The</strong> Colonel” with<br />

lemon sherbet and vodka. <strong>The</strong> air-conditioned double-height interior has cozy wooden<br />

booths for privacy and is flanked by a long wooden bar area, popular among expats. <strong>The</strong><br />

place is a busy catwalk in the evening.<br />

No. 1 St. 154, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. & 023/214-747. Main courses $5–$30. MC, V. Daily 6:30am–<br />

midnight.<br />

Kandal House WESTERN/KHMER This small eatery exudes understated<br />

elegance. <strong>The</strong> food ranges from British fish and chips to Italian pasta and American burgers.<br />

Where it really excels, however, is in the quality <strong>of</strong> its excellent traditional Khmer<br />

dishes. <strong>The</strong> amok here comes highly recommended. <strong>The</strong>y also have a good handle on<br />

Thai food and do a good job with both green curry and yellow curry. A friendly atmosphere<br />

prevails, making this a popular gathering place, especially for breakfast and lunch.<br />

You can also call for free delivery if you want to spend a night in.<br />

239BEo Sisowath Quay. & 016/800-111. Main courses $4.50. MC, V. Daily 9am–11pm.<br />

La Croisette WESTERN This slick, air-conditioned haven <strong>of</strong>fers an eclectic menu<br />

with a French/Khmer slant, though they also branch out into Italian and more exotic<br />

fare. Try the Persian fried shrimp with ginger. <strong>The</strong> fresh pumpkin soup is also very good,<br />

and the ham and cheese croissant is food for the gods. It is quite expensive and you’re<br />

certainly paying a little more for its excellent riverside location, though the prices are not

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