The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
If you spend any time on the riverfront in Phnom Penh you will at some point
catch site of Sambo, Phnom Penh’s beloved and only resident elephant. As a
baby, Sambo survived a Khmer Rouge attack at the farm of her owner, Sin Son.
All four of Sambo’s relatives were murdered with machetes. Sambo barely
escaped, but in the end managed to flee into the jungle nursing her wounds. No
one is sure what happened after that, but she turned up in the Cardamom Mountains
and was taken in by a Khmer Rouge cadre. Amazingly (and some say mystically)
Sambo was eventually reunited with her handler, who made it his life’s
purpose to track down the one remaining elephant from his family’s farm. Sin
Son and his “sister,” Sambo, arrived in the capital in 1980. Sambo has been a fixture
in Phnom Penh ever since, loved by Khmers and foreigners alike, a gentle
reminder of grace and survival. She is also a symbol of so much that is lost in a
country that historically revered these amazing animals. Since the country’s first
UN-organized elections in 1993, civil society groups and political groups have
made Sambo the amiable focal point of their public demonstrations. She has
marched to protest against global child labor, to raise awareness about UN’s Millennium
Development Goals, and to promote children’s vaccinations. There was
total outrage in Phnom Penh in 2009 when a local restaurant (which shall remain
unnamed) actually adorned her with crass commercial advertising. The fury was
short-lived when the desecration was swiftly removed. Many restaurants along
the riverfront serve Sambo a meal when required. These days she seems to have
a real fondness for the food at La Croisette.
He is also an amiable source of useful information and perspective on Cambodian politics
and history. In addition to the truly superb Mexican food, the cocktails are legendary.
Cantina serves some of the best margaritas in Southeast Asia. While enjoying one, check
out the photos on the walls—there’s stunningly good work by great photographers such
as Al Rockoff, Roland Neveu, and Tim Page.
347 Sisowath Quay. & 023/222-502. www.cantinacambodia.com. Main courses $4.25–$6.50. Fri–Sun
3–11pm.
Frizz KHMER Frizz is a modest and bright little place on 240 Street in the heart
of the boutique shopping district. Plenty of clean, white, soft furnishings; rattan furniture;
and ocher floor tiles create an atmosphere that is very relaxing in this dusty, crowded city.
The specialties are Khmer and they also run a small cooking school that garners respect
from chefs both international and local (p. 86). They also serve Western food, delicious
baguette sandwiches, and healthy breakfasts. Frizz is a place of maximum quality without
pretension in either presentation or price. Some say that Frizz makes the best amok in
Phnom Penh, and they may be right. Others would say that Frizz makes the best amok in
Cambodia. This would be pushing it, but it is fair to say that it is a contender.
No. 67 St. 240. & 012/524-801. www.frizz-restaurant.com. Main courses $3.50–$5. No credit cards. Daily
10am–10pm.
75
PHNOM PENH 5
WHERE TO DINE