The Best of Cambodia & Laos

74
PHNOM PENH
5
WHERE TO DINE
a popular chateaubriand with morels. The signature dish of Australian beef tenderloin
comes highly recommended. Come for a romantic dinner and stay for dancing.
No. 6 St. 110 (corner of Sisowath). & 023/212-302. Main courses $7–$32. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 10am–
11pm; Fri–Sat 10am–1:30am.
Topaz FRENCH/CONTINENTAL Good, familiar food and atmosphere that’s
sophisticated but not stuffy are the hallmarks of Topaz, an 8-year-old French bistro. In
air-conditioned comfort, diners choose from informal booth seating near the comfortable
bar or at elegant tables with fine linen, silver, and real stemware in a formal dining
room unrivaled in town. The menu features great steaks, pasta, and salad. The Caesar
salad is noteworthy. Daily lunch sets are popular with the business crowd, and daily
specials are contingent on the day’s imports of fish or fine steaks. Wine racks line the
dining-room walls, with some great choices. Everything here is good.
182Eo Sothearos Blvd. (near the downtown sites). & 023/221-622. Main courses $10–$35. MC, V. Daily
11am–2pm and 6–11pm.
Van’s Restaurant FRENCH Set in the former Banque de l’Indochine, Van’s serves
French haute cuisine in truly glorious surroundings. Traditional French fare such as filet
de beouf au poivre (beefsteak with heavy pepper sauce) or lapin en gibelotte (rabbit in a
heavy stew with white wine) is unlikely to do wonders for your waistline but is undoubtedly
part of the overall experience of this splendid place. Although the glories of the food
do not quite match the glory of the surroundings, Van’s has only been open a year and
this may be the result of growing pains. The main dining room is a series of beautifully
laid out tables, the tablecloths and napkins gleaming white, the wineglasses sparkling. It
is all very grand and very, very French. There is a wraparound balcony on the corner,
where you can dine closer to the buzz of the city below. Van’s also offers private function
rooms for groups. Upstairs is a small cocktail area dubbed “Le Boudoir” with comfortable
bright red cushioned seating and a spacious tiled balcony.
No. 5 St. 102. & 023/722-067. www.vans-restaurant.com. Main courses $7–$13. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–
2:30pm and 5:30–11:30pm.
Moderate
Café Metro ASIAN/INTERNATIONAL This stylish, contemporary restaurant
serves excellent food in a corner-side location overlooking the river. The menu of mostly
seafood and Australian beef is excellent. They’ve got a nice selection of “small plates” for
those who want lighter portions. On the large plate menu, the grilled tenderloin served
with a side of fries will knock out any hunger pangs. There’s free Wi-Fi access and an
extensive martini menu to boot.
No. 271 St. 148 (on the corner of Sisowath Quay). & 023/222-275. Main courses $8–$17. MC, V. Daily
7am–1am.
Cantina MEXICAN There are many restaurants and cafes along the riverfront,
but Cantina stands out for the quality of both the food and the conversation. In
the early days of tourism development, many places copied the pizza parlor formula of
Happy Herb’s—Phnom Penh’s first and most original pizza joint. Cantina (next door to
Happy Herb’s) completely shattered the mold offering tacos, tostadas, and burritos using
plenty of fresh ingredients and genuine masa flour imported from Mexico. The originator
of this delightfully convivial watering hole is Santa Barbara native Hurley Scroggins.