The Best of Cambodia & Laos

72
PHNOM PENH
5
WHERE TO DINE
the river. Where the FCC does still excel is in its role as an exhibition space and gallery.
There are regular exhibitions here both photographic and artistic, and they also have a
permanent collection. It is an astonishingly good body of work with amazing photos by
such celebrated photographers as Al Rockoff and Roland Neveu, who have chronicled
this country over many decades in both war and peace.
363 Sisowath Quay. & 023/724-014. Main courses $4–$12. MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.
La Résidence FRENCH If you splurge on only one meal in Phnom Penh, do
it here. Housed in a former imperial mansion, this is fine dining at its best. Waitstaff is
discreet and attentive, the setting is romantic without being stuffy, and the food is fantastic.
Book ahead to get one of the tables by the garden window. The ambience is nicer
here than at rival 112 Restaurant. The chef previously worked in two- and three-
Michelin star restaurants. The menu consists of classic and modern French food. Anything
from the foie gras list is rich and decadent, to the stuffed ravioli with duck liver in
Parmesan cream sauce, a dish worthy of the zillion-calorie intake. A three-course dinner
will likely set you back at least $50; if money is tight, opt for a more frugal three-course
set lunch menu.
No. 22–24 St. 214. & 023/224-582. Main courses $8.50–$80 (average is about $25). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri
11:30am–2pm and 6:30–10pm. Dinner only Sat–Sun.
112 Restaurant FRENCH You found it—the new French restaurant highly
favored by the expats in this area of town. The decor is a bit busy, with brown-and-white
embroidered table settings and chairs, wrought-iron lamps and light covers everywhere,
and tall potted trees curving around the arched ceilings. Music is also hit-and-miss—one
moment it’s Ella Fitzgerald and My Funny Valentine, the next moment it’s the Carpenters’
Yesterday Once More. But the food, what really matters, is excellent. They have signature
French dishes such as steak tartare, and an impressive salad menu. The green salad with
goat cheese on toast and walnuts is crisp and tangy, and a meal unto itself.
No. 1A St. 102 (Colonial Mansions). & 023/990-880. Main courses $12–$27. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm
and 6-10pm.
Origami JAPANESE Sushi in Cambodia? Go figure. There are a number of
Japanese restaurants in town, in fact, but Origami serves fine sushi and all manner of
good, authentic Japanese that’ll have you saying “Oishi!” From tonkatsu (deep-fried pork
over rice) to real Japanese ramen (noodle soup), Ms. Kimura, the genial proprietor, covers
all the bases. Essential ingredients are imported from Japan, and everything is priced
accordingly. The sushi is the real deal, and the presentation and decor of this little parkside
gem could have been lifted straight out of Tokyo. Popular for the many Japanese
expats on humanitarian assignment, the restaurant is itself an NGO (nongovernment
organization) offering Khmer kids training in Japanese language and culture.
No. 88 Sothearos St. (near the main downtown sites). & 012/968-095. Main courses $3–$12; set menu
$10–$20. V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9:30pm.
River House FRENCH/CONTINENTAL One of many along the riverside,
this bar and restaurant stands out by virtue of size and style. A classic corner colonial,
with quaint cushioned chairs under canvas umbrellas; there’s now an elegant air-conditioned
dining room. Classy rattan chairs, two stately bars in wood and glass, and the fine
linen and silver presentation are luxe far beyond the price tag. The food is excellent,
characterized by fine French specials such as duck prepared as you like, coq au vin, and