The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Inexpensive
Capitol Guesthouse The Capitol is a Phnom Penh institution as a guesthouse,
restaurant, and travel agent. The Capitol has built its considerable budget empire largely
on the consistent delivery of sound travel advice founded on a very crisp basis of Chinese
business know-how and just simple hard work. There are absolutely no frills at the
Capitol but it remains a solid value. The walls are plain white, the tiles are scrubbed, and
it feels a bit like a sanatorium for the insane (which may suit some of the guests). It
remains a place with some history, surviving the turbulent years and delivering consistently.
For travel information, it still remains unsurpassed all these years on.
No. 14AE0 St. 182. & 023/217-627. Fax 023/214-104. www.capitolkh.com. 60 units. $6 double fan bathroom
cold water; $12 double A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.
3 WHERE TO DINE
Between remnants of French colonialism and the more recent influx of humanitarian-aid
workers, international cuisine abounds in the Cambodian capital. Along with Vientiane,
it is one of the best cities for dining in all of Southeast Asia. Some restaurants themselves
are actually NGO (nongovernment organization) projects designed to raise money for
local causes or provide training. Ask Khmers where to eat and you’ll certainly be pointed
to any of the street-side stalls or storefront Chinese noodle shops south of the Central
Market, but good eats can also be had from one of many options along Sisowath Quay
or among the alleys of the town center. There are simply hundreds of restaurants in
Phnom Penh of all cuisine types. The riverfront, from the Royal Place to the Siem Reap
boat pier, is one long strip of eateries. Around the residential area of Boeng Keng Kang
south of Sihanouk Boulevard and centered around 51 Street are a number of restaurants
set in quiet streets, with the long-running Khmer Surin really standing out. For a true
local Khmer experience, cross the Cambodian-Japanese Friendship bridge on the Tonle
Sap River in the north end of town and follow the main road a few short clicks to the
town of Prek Leap. The large riverside restaurants here are always crowded with locals
on weekends. They are usually in big groups of family and friends and the atmosphere
of celebration is palpable. There are karaoke, bands, and even variety shows using the
universal language of slapstick. It’s a good chance to eat, talk, and laugh with locals. All
the restaurants serve similar good Khmer and Chinese fare. Go by tuk-tuk and pick the
most crowded place; the more, the merrier.
RIVERFRONT TO MONIVONG
Expensive
Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC) CONTINENTAL This restaurant,
in truth, doesn’t have much to do with the actual FCC—those ties were severed a
decade ago. Ten years ago, this place was often deservedly listed as one of the best restaurants
in Asia. The decline in quality since then has been shocking—the food is uninspired
Western and very overpriced. The pizza is particularly bland (no tomato sauce and
bad cheese), although snacks like nachos and enchiladas are acceptable. It is still worth
dropping by for a drink at happy hour to enjoy the ambience and the views, which are
wonderful especially during monsoon season when you can see the storms sweeping up
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PHNOM PENH 5
WHERE TO DINE