The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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vi CONTENTS CAMBODIA & LAOS 13 LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 252 1 Luang Prabang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 The Fate of the King . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Lao Speedboat Risks . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Baguettes Near Wat Phousi. . . . . . . 269 Taking Refuge: Making Friends at the Temple. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Walking Tour: Luang Prabang . . . . 279 Fast Facts: Luang Prabang. . . . . . . . 284 2 Nong Kiaow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 3 Muang Ngoi Neua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 4 Phongsali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Fast Facts: Phongsali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 5 Huay Xai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Fast Facts: Huay Xai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 6 Pakbeng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 7 Phonsavan & the Plain Of Jars . . . 292 Fast Facts: Phonsavan. . . . . . . . . . . . 293 The Beauty of Vieng Xai . . . . . . . . . .294 14 CENTRAL LAOS 297 1 Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Riding a Skylab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Fast Facts: Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . 298 Dinosaurs in Laos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 2 Tha Khek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Fast Facts: Tha Khek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 15 SOUTHERN LAOS 307 1 Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Fast Facts: Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 More Choice Eats in Pakse . . . . . . . . 313 2 Champasak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Fast Facts: Champasak . . . . . . . . . . . 314 3 Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Fast Facts: Don Khong. . . . . . . . . . . . 318 4 The Bolaven Plateau . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 16 FAST FACTS 321 1 Fast Facts: Cambodia. . . . . . . . . . . . 321 2 Fast Facts: Laos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 17 KHMER & LAO GLOSSARY 325 1 The Khmer Language . . . . . . . . . . . 325 2 The Lao Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 INDEX 331 General Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . 338 Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns, Temples & Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Cambodia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 The Best of Cambodia in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 The Best of Laos in 1 Week . . . . . . . . 54 The Best of Cambodia & Laos in 3 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Where to Stay in Phnom Penh . . . . 65 Where to Dine in Phnom Penh . . . . 73 Phnom Penh Attractions, Shopping & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Where to Stay in Siem Reap . . . . . . . 95 Siem Reap Dining, Shopping & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 The Temples of Angkor . . . . . . . . . . 117 Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Koh Kong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Laos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Where to Stay in Vientiane . . . . . . . 215 Where to Dine in Vientiane . . . . . . 223 Vientiane Attractions, Shopping & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Walking Tour: Vientiane. . . . . . . . . . 233 Vang Vieng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Where to Stay in Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Where to Dine in Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Luang Prabang Attractions, Shopping & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . 271 Walking Tour: Luang Prabang . . . . 281 Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Tha Khek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Page 1 and 2: Cambodia & Laos
Page 3 and 4: Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
Page 5 and 6: CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
Page 7: 8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
Page 11 and 12: HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
Page 13 and 14: The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
Page 15 and 16: the world’s most rewarding journe
Page 17 and 18: MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
Page 19 and 20: 7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
Page 21 and 22: Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
Page 23 and 24: Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
Page 25 and 26: was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
Page 27 and 28: keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
Page 29 and 30: Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
Page 31 and 32: As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
Page 33 and 34: place largely without violence, Cam
Page 35 and 36: high-rise residential developments
Page 37 and 38: 5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
Page 39 and 40: Wherever you are, stick only to bot
Page 41 and 42: Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
Page 43 and 44: Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
Page 45 and 46: 3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
Page 47 and 48: spend the night in Poipet, but this
Page 49 and 50: can be cold due to excessive air-co
Page 51 and 52: Come Armed with Singles We recommen
Page 53 and 54: the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
Page 55 and 56: are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
Page 57 and 58: cater to travelers with disabilitie
Page 59 and 60:
General Resources for Green Travel
Page 61 and 62:
INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
Page 135 and 136:
Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
Page 193 and 194:
forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
Page 195 and 196:
1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
Page 197 and 198:
CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
Page 201 and 202:
There have been some tensions along
Page 203 and 204:
Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
Page 207 and 208:
2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
Page 215 and 216:
Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
Page 217 and 218:
Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
Page 239 and 240:
Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
Page 255 and 256:
GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258:
18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
Page 259 and 260:
Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
Page 265 and 266:
20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
Page 267 and 268:
The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
Page 269 and 270:
Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
Page 271 and 272:
wood floors, and fashionable room d
Page 273 and 274:
lush rice paddies and picturesque h
Page 275 and 276:
great riverside location, although
Page 277 and 278:
L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
Page 287 and 288:
Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
Page 291 and 292:
Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
Page 303 and 304:
6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
Page 305 and 306:
next to the post office. The airpor
Page 307 and 308:
containing an oxygen generator in c
Page 309 and 310:
Central Laos is rarely at the top o
Page 311 and 312:
L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
Page 313 and 314:
Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
Page 319 and 320:
Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
Page 321 and 322:
DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
Page 323 and 324:
Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
Page 325 and 326:
More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
Page 327 and 328:
WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
Page 329 and 330:
(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
Page 331 and 332:
Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
Page 335 and 336:
There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
Page 339 and 340:
HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
Page 341 and 342:
English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
Page 343 and 344:
GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
Page 347 and 348:
Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
Page 349 and 350:
Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
Page 351 and 352:
Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
Page 353 and 354:
The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
Page 355 and 356:
MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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