The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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64 PHNOM PENH 5 WHERE TO STAY and unique, and executive privileges on the top floors are luxe. They have wireless Internet (with prepaid cards) available in all public spaces. All rooms have picture windows and good views of town or the river. 313 Sisowath Quay. & 023/218-189. Fax 023/426-392. www.hotelcambodiana.com. 230 units. $170– $180 double; $400–$500 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; concierge; executive-level rooms; small health club; Internet; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; sauna; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar. The Quay This chic riverside hotel is giving nearby Amanjaya a run for its money. They advertise “carbon-neutral luxury,” and that’s what you get at the Quay. They call themselves Cambodia’s first carbon-neutral hotel, done through a combination of ecofriendly materials and purchasing carbon-offsets (which provide rural villages with fuel-efficient wood-burning stoves). It is best advised to skip the small, windowless (though admittedly still very stylish) standard rooms and book yourself into a panorama suite. For the extra $50 you get a room twice the size with large balconies with unobstructed views of the river and a cozy sitting area with swan chairs. The decor of light wood, champagne color textiles, and cream walls and furniture create a truly soothing escape from the chaos of Phnom Penh. Bathrooms in all units are sleek and outfitted with stylish sinks and shower cubicles; suites come with large stone tubs. The rooftop Jacuzzi is luxurious, if a bit uncomfortable, as there is also a popular rooftop bar so you may have to shimmy your way past patrons for a soak. 277 Sisowath Quay. & 023/992-284. Fax 023/224-893. www.thequayhotel.com 16 units. $130 standard suite; $185 panoramic suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; rooftop Jacuzzi; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi. Raffles Hotel Le Royal This is the best high-end hotel in Phnom Penh. Built in 1929, it is the city’s most atmospheric hotel, an authentic Art Deco and colonial classic. Everything from the vaulted ceilings in the lobby to the classic original central stairs breathes history and charm. Walking down the arched hallways, with sunlight bouncing off the black-and-white floor tiles and streaming in through stone columns, is like walking smack into the extravagance of prewar Indochina. Rooms are done with fine tiled entries, high ceilings, indirect lighting, a sitting area with inlaid furniture, and ornate touches like antique wall sconces and fine drapery. Landmark rooms, just one step above the standard, are a good choice in the old wing and are larger, with nice appointments like claw-foot tubs and Art Deco faucets. The Raffles is luxury with a price tag, but it is all well worth it. There are some interesting theme suites named for famous visitors, including Charles de Gaulle and W. Somerset Maugham. Even Jacqueline Kennedy has a room dedicated to photos and memorabilia from her 1967 visit. The central pool area is a tranquil oasis divided by a unique pavilion, and the amenities throughout, such as the fine spa facility, are luxe. The staff is attentive and very professional. 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Blvd.), Sangkat Wat Phnom. & 023/981-888. Fax 023/981- 168. www.raffles.com. 172 units. $300–$340 double; $390–$2,500 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; kids’ club; concierge; health club; Internet; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; sauna; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi. MODERATE Almond Hotel This slick new addition to the Phnom Penh hotel scene raises the bar. The emphasis is very much on the modern with plenty of shiny tiles and picture windows. This is tempered by boutique touches such as rattan furniture and silk awnings. The rooms are light with picture windows. The deluxe rooms sport balconies with decent
Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217) 219 205 Almond Hotel 24 Amanjaya Hotel 5 Amber Villa 20 Anise Hotel 17 Nehru Nehru Blvd. Blvd. 70 70 Monivong Monivong Blvd. Blvd. Conf. Conf. de de la la Russie Russie Jok Jok Dimitrov Dimitrov Blvd. Blvd. Kampuchea Kampuchea Krom Krom Blvd. Blvd. (128) (128) 182 182 336 336 199 199 0 25 Boeng Kak Lake 310 310 193 193 173 173 284 284 0 0.25 km 2 Olympic Olympic Stadium Old Stadium 1/4 mi 118 118 134 134 Billabong Hotel 3 Blue Lime 8 Capital Guesthouse 9 Cyclo Hotel 7 139 139 108 108 164 164 182 80 75 75 France France St. St. (47) (47) Charles Charles De De Gaulle Gaulle Blvd. Blvd. (217) (217) Tito Tito Blvd. Blvd. Sihanouk Sihanouk Blvd. Blvd. 278 163 163 360 166 166 143 143 86 86 232 13 242 113 113 330 1 107 107 9 288 300 61 61 92 92 96 96 368 386 106 106 108 108 105 105 154 154 350 Mao Mao Zedong Zedong Blvd. Blvd. 432 63 63 Monivong Monivong Blvd. Blvd. Where to Stay in Phnom Penh Sisowath Sisowath Quay Quay 90 90 118 118 130 130 Central 3 Market 51 51 19 19 Norodom Norodom Blvd. Blvd. 13 13 15 15 144 144 154 154 178 178 178 178 184 184 184 184 Frangipani Villa (90s) 14 Golden Gate Hotel 16 Golden Mekong Hotel 10 Goldiana Hotel 18 Chruoy Chruoy Changvar Changvar Bridge Bridge (Japanese (Japanese Friendship Friendship Bridge) Bridge) U.S. Embassy 14 278 278 63 63 288 288 Tonlé Sap River 214 214 228 228 242 242 17 18 302 302 63 63 51 51 322 322 57 57 7 15 16 51 51 8 360 360 240 240 Norodom Norodom Blvd. Blvd. 6 KBAL THNAL Tourist Tourist Boat Boat Dock Dock 5 4 National Museum Royal Palace 10 19 19 21 21 Sothearos Sothearos Goldie Boutique Guesthouse 19 Hotel Cambodiana 12 Hotel InterContinental 25 Hotel Scandinavia 21 Juliana Hotel 2 Last Home Guest House 6 Manor House 15 The Pavilion 11 The Quay 4 Raffles le Royal 1 Royal Inn Hotel 23 Town View CHRUOY Hotel 13 Villa Lanka CHANGVAR 22 C A M B O D I A Phnom Penh Sisowath Sisowath Quay Quay Sothearos Sothearos Silver Silver Pagoda 258 11 Independence Monument Sihanouk Blvd. 20 21 22 19 23 24 Bus Station Post Office Taxi Stand 12 Bassac River 65 PHNOM PENH 5 WHERE TO STAY
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
Page 25 and 26: was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
Page 27 and 28: keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
Page 29 and 30: Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
Page 31 and 32: As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
Page 33 and 34: place largely without violence, Cam
Page 35 and 36: high-rise residential developments
Page 37 and 38: 5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
Page 39 and 40: Wherever you are, stick only to bot
Page 41 and 42: Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
Page 43 and 44: Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
Page 45 and 46: 3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
Page 47 and 48: spend the night in Poipet, but this
Page 49 and 50: can be cold due to excessive air-co
Page 51 and 52: Come Armed with Singles We recommen
Page 53 and 54: the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
Page 55 and 56: are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
Page 57 and 58: cater to travelers with disabilitie
Page 59 and 60: General Resources for Green Travel
Page 61 and 62: INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
Page 63 and 64: 0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
Page 65 and 66: 2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
Page 67 and 68: Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
Page 69 and 70: Sao Market to shop for special Lao
Page 71 and 72: Founded in the mid-14th century by
Page 73 and 74: The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
Page 75: 2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
Page 79 and 80: No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
Page 81 and 82: Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
Page 83 and 84: Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
Page 85 and 86: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 87 and 88: Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
Page 89 and 90: completely punitive. They also have
Page 91 and 92: Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
Page 93 and 94: ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
Page 95 and 96: The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
Page 97 and 98: SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
Page 99 and 100: 5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
Page 101 and 102: (& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
Page 103 and 104: The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
Page 105 and 106: The ruins of the ancient city of An
Page 107 and 108: 1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
Page 109 and 110: 10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
Page 111 and 112: Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
Page 113 and 114: combo and sinks set in unique overs
Page 115 and 116: fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
Page 117 and 118: Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
Page 119 and 120: NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
Page 121 and 122: Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
Page 123 and 124: Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
Page 125 and 126: Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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