The Best of Cambodia & Laos

2 WHERE TO STAY
There is a huge choice of accommodations in Phnom Penh, ranging from old, upscale
gems to budget minihotels, to even a few small boutique properties. Although the choice
is large, so is the disparity in quality within the same price range. While there are hotels
and guesthouses scattered all over the city, the main concentrations are in the streets
around the riverfront stretching from the Cambodiana to the boat pier for Siem Reap.
The crisscross of streets stretching between here and Monivong Boulevard is home to
dozens and dozens of places of varying prices and quality. Those on or near the river tend
to be more expensive with the area around 178 Street and the Royal Palace forming the
fashionable epicenter. The problem with this area is that although it is very central, it also
suffers from the increasing insanity of traffic on the streets of Phnom Penh. It is unbelievably
hectic as soon as you step out of your hotel. Boeung Keng Kang, the area south of
Sihanouk Boulevard, with 51 Street as its central thoroughfare, offers a vastly more
relaxed environment if you find your nerves jangling uncontrollably around the center of
the city. You will find a whole slew of restaurants and midmarket hotels set in quieter
surroundings than farther uptown. Increasingly there are boutique offerings springing up
in this area, adding to the many midrange options. Whichever district you choose to
explore, it pays to look around. Always ask about seasonal rates.
RIVERFRONT TO MONIVONG
Expensive
Amanjaya Hotel Near the riverside at Sisowath Quay and the National
Museum, this three-story corner building is a true house of style. The porous laterite
walls of the lobby and the Buddhist statues throughout contribute to a cool boutique
vibe. Though sparse in services and amenities, rooms are spacious, done in rich red silk
hangings and bedspreads in bold contrast with dark-wood trim and floors. All rooms
have king-size beds. For the same price as the standard suites The Quay (see below)
nearby, Amanjaya’s deluxe suites are far more spacious and come with a small balcony.
All bathrooms are immaculate affairs done in wood and tile, with neat tub/shower units
in deluxe suites and separate shower and tub in the more expensive suites, delineated by
unique large-stone gravel paths in concrete. Rooms vary in size and shape; best are the
corner suites with panoramic views of the river and busy street below. Noisy traffic is the
only drawback.
No. 1 St. 154 Sisowath Quay. & 023/214-747. Fax 023/219-545. www.amanjaya.com 21 units. Apr–Sept
$120–$175 deluxe suite, $220 suite; Oct–Mar $155–$215 deluxe suite, $250 suite. MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi.
Hotel Cambodiana They’ve got it all at the Cambodiana. With a convenient
location, atmosphere, and all the amenities, this is a good jumping-off point for the sites
downtown. The building looks like a giant gilded wedding cake, and its vaulted Khmerstyle
roofs dominate the sky in the southern end of downtown. The lobby is abuzz with
activity, whether it’s visiting dignitaries or disembarking tour buses, but the helpful staff
handles it all with grace. The large riverside pool is great, and there are some fine choices
in international dining. Rooms are priced according to their view of the river, and executive
floors are of a fine standard. Everything is tidy, but decoration is a chain-hotel style
in plain wood and office carpet; it’s a bit dull, and some floors reek of pungent deodorizers.
Deluxe river-view rooms are the best bet. The high-end suites are richly decorated
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PHNOM PENH 5
WHERE TO STAY