The Best of Cambodia & Laos

The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Nation
The Tonle Sap is the only waterway in the world that changes direction halfway
through the year and starts to flow in the opposite direction according to the
season. From November to May, Cambodia’s dry season, the Tonle Sap flows
into the Mekong River, the two waterways converging at Phnom Penh. However,
when the monsoon rains begin in June, the Tonle Sap backs up the other
way to form what is essentially an enormous natural reservoir. The direction of
the Tonle Sap is decided by the pressure of the water from the Mekong, either
forcing it back into the Tonle Sap Lake when the river is high or drawing it into
its own flow when the river is low. It is a natural safety valve, giving the Mekong
natural elbowroom to flow through the delta and on to the sea. Most of the
year, the Tonle Sap Lake is relatively shallow. During the rainy season, it
increases in area to 16,000 sq. km (6,240 sq. miles) and its depth can reach up
to 9m (30 ft.), flooding surrounding fields and forests. The Tonle Sap is the beating
heart of Cambodia. It has traditionally provided abundant irrigation for rice
while yielding plentiful amounts of fish—the central sustenance of life for
Cambodians.
Kratie has been discontinued altogether. Earlier this century, all the passengers on the
Siem Reap ferry were held up at gunpoint and robbed by fellow passengers. The culprits
turned out to be hospitality students!
BY BUS Different companies leave from different parts of town, though outside of
Psar Thmei (Central Market) is where you will find the departure points for both Sorya
(& 023/210-359) and GST Express (& 023/355-379) bus services. They are comfortable
and reasonably priced, but often very cold because of excessive air-conditioning.
Mekong Express (& 023/427-518), leaving from Sisowath Quay on the corner of Street
102, is generally reputed to be the most comfortable and swift, but you will pay slightly
more. It is worth it. Sorya (or Ho Wah Genting as they used to be called) and GST offer
a slightly cheaper but less salubrious option. Travel remains cheap, with journeys from
Phnom Penh to Siem Reap or Sihanoukville costing under $5. Unlike elsewhere in
Southeast Asia, there are few night buses. Most departures leave in the early hours of the
morning with the last ones leaving in midafternoon. The easiest way to buy tickets is
through your hotel, guesthouse, or a travel agent.
Buses run in both directions from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Kampot,
Koh Kong, Battambang, Kratie, Kompong Cham, Stung Treng, Banlung, Sisophon, and
Poipet.
GETTING AROUND
With the increase in crowds and traffic that has occurred in the last few years, getting
around Phnom Penh can be a fairly wild experience. The good news is that there are
plenty of modes of transportation, and hailing a motodup, a cyclo, or a tuk-tuk is very
simple since they are everywhere.
BY MOTORCYCLE TAXI Motorcycle taxis are all over town and are often the quickest
way to get around. Just hail one from the sidewalk. Most restaurants and hotels will also
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PHNOM PENH 5
ORIENTATION