The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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PHNOM PENH
5
ORIENTATION
Heading a few blocks west and running parallel to Sisowath Quay is the major artery
of Norodom Boulevard. The two major landmarks along this road are Democracy
Monument to the southwest of the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom where it ends at the
northern end of Central Phnom Penh.
Heading west again across the parallel intersections with Street 51 and Street 63, one
arrives at Monivong Boulevard. This is the city’s main thoroughfare and is very hectic
during the day. Along Monivong, you will find many of the major banks and airline
offices. At the northern end of Monivong is the area around Boeung Kak Lake (although
the lake itself now represents prime real estate and there are plans afoot to fill it in). This
has for a long time been the main backpacker area. Ringing the lake (at present) is a series
of very cheap guesthouses and restaurants. To the north, Monivong ends at a large roundabout.
This place has historical significance since the nearby French Embassy was where
foreigners sheltered in 1975 after the city fell to the Khmer Rouge. Heading east from
the roundabout will take you to the Japanese Bridge that crosses to Prek Leap.
Phsar Thmei, or the Central Market, is a huge and eccentric French Art Deco landmark
in the center of town between Norodom and Monivong.
Circling the central part of Phnom Penh is Mao Tse Tung Boulevard. Three major
arteries radiate out from Monivong to Mao Tse Tung: Confederation de la Russie (Airport
Rd.) heading due west passing the southern side of Boeung Kak Lake; Kampuchea
Krom Boulevard, which parallels it 4 blocks south; and Charles de Gaulle (turning into
Monireth), which takes you southwest out of the city. Sihanouk Boulevard is a kind of
inner ring road partially echoing Mao Tse Tung Boulevard to the west and south starting
at Independence Monument and Norodom and ending at Confederation de la Russie
just south of Boeung Lak Lake.
A lot, but by no means all, of the hotels and restaurants are situated in the area
between the Tonle Sap and Monivong, south of Wat Phnom and north of Victory
Monument. Between Monivong and Norodom south of Sihanouk Boulevard is a leafy
and relatively quiet residential network of streets, called Boeung Keng Kang, where many
expats live, and NGOs and international organizations are housed in former French villas.
There are also many restaurants and cafes and it is in many ways the most pleasant
part of town.
GETTING THERE
BY AIR All major airlines in the region connect here. Phnom Penh International
(formerly Pochentong) Airport is about a 20-minute drive from the city center (if the
traffic is thin). A cab costs $9, while a tuk-tuk costs $7. Vehicles entering the airport are
monitored. You pay at a counter in arrivals and hand the voucher to the driver waiting
in the queue at the front. Motorcycle taxis are not allowed into the airport compound,
but if you wish you can walk past the airport gates and hail a motodup from the side of
the road. The fare will be about $3, but be prepared to haggle. This is all probably a bad
idea if this is your first time in Phnom Penh, and you are better off sticking with the
approved taxi.
BY BOAT Hydrofoil riverboats connect Phnom Penh with Siem Reap and leave early
every morning from the main dock on the north end of town. Tickets are available from
both travel agents and hotels or you can purchase directly at the quay. The price is in the
region of $35. Now that the road to Siem Reap is completely perfect, boats have lost
much of their popularity. This is not surprising as they are often overcrowded and
uncomfortable, and their safety record is dubious. The boat route up the Mekong to