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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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58<br />

SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES<br />

4<br />

THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS IN 3 WEEKS<br />

Day &: History in Phnom Penh<br />

To understand <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s present, you<br />

have to understand the horrors <strong>of</strong> its<br />

recent past. Do not expect to enjoy your<br />

morning. First take a moto-taxi or tuk-tuk<br />

to the south <strong>of</strong> the city where you will find<br />

the Tuol Sleng or S21 Genocide museum<br />

(p. 83). This is an overwhelming but necessary<br />

visit to make. It was here that the<br />

Khmer Rouge tortured and then slaughtered<br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> men, women, children,<br />

and infants. <strong>The</strong>y photographed their victims<br />

meticulously before they killed them<br />

and thousands <strong>of</strong> the fading portraits are<br />

on view. <strong>The</strong> range <strong>of</strong> expressions is heartbreaking.<br />

You can then go to Choeung<br />

Ek, the Killing Fields, which was the principal<br />

place where these thousands upon<br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> people were systematically<br />

killed (p. 80). In the afternoon, you can<br />

relax and be alone with your thoughts on<br />

a boat trip down the Mekong, watching<br />

life unfold along the riverbanks.<br />

Days * & (: Sihanoukville<br />

Take the bus to the beaches <strong>of</strong> Sihanoukville,<br />

find a peaceful place to your<br />

liking, order a cold drink, break out the<br />

paperbacks, and relax.<br />

Day ): Kampot & Kep<br />

Take a trip along the coast to Kep and<br />

Kampot. Sample the tasty seafood while in<br />

Kep. A well-known local specialty is Kep<br />

crab in Kampot pepper. It is a must-try.<br />

Day q: Back to Phnom Penh<br />

Head back to Phnom Penh by bus and try<br />

to work out which restaurant, <strong>of</strong> the many<br />

superb and varied choices on <strong>of</strong>fer, you<br />

will go to for your last supper. If you like<br />

genuine Spanish tapas and paella, try<br />

Pacharan (p. 77) near the Royal Palace. It<br />

is in a wonderful old French colonial<br />

building, with views <strong>of</strong> both the river and<br />

the Silver Pagoda.

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