The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Sao Market to shop for special Lao fabric
and jewelry, or even DVDs and computer
games if that’s what you fancy.
Day !: Flight to Siem Reap
You could easily spend another week in
Laos exploring the south of the country,
but if you don’t want to be hurried in
Cambodia (and you really don’t want to be
hurried in Cambodia), it is time to employ
aviation. Your destination is Siem Reap in
Cambodia (both Lao Airlines and Vietnam
Airlines fly this route). Arriving at
lunchtime, once you have dumped your
bags in your hotel head to the center of
town around Psar Chas. Here you can kick
back in any of the many restaurants, cafes,
or pubs and get a feel for the place. Take a
look around the market stocked with all
kinds of handicrafts, clothing, and much
more.
Day @: Angkor Wat
Get up early and see the sunrise over Angkor
Wat (p. 113). It’s a photographer’s
dream and a moment you won’t forget.
Then head over to Angkor Thom and the
Bayon (p. 116). There is nothing in the
world quite like the glorious enigma of the
Bayon. Check out the other sites around
Angkor Thom and then head back into
town for lunch. In the afternoon go to Ta
Prohm (p. 121), an overgrown and atmospheric
place that makes the set of Raiders
of the Lost Ark look pedestrian. As the sun
starts to lower in the sky at about 2pm,
head back to Angkor Wat to explore its
many splendors. Don’t forget to look out
for the spectacular bas-relief sculptures
and endless apsaras.
Day #: Journey to Battambang
Today you’re heading to the western town
of Battambang. You can do this in one of
two ways—either by boat (p. 134) or by
road. The boat journey is a bit of an
adventure, especially in the dry season
when the water is low, but the views of life
along the banks of the Sangker River are
fascinating. The bus is straightforward.
Check in and relax at your hotel and in the
evening, get a motodup to take you to the
Riverside Balcony Bar, an atmospheric
wooden building on the river with a huge
veranda. After your riverside aperitif, head
over to La Pomme d’Amour for dinner. It’s
an excellent place for hearty French provincial
cooking.
Day $: Battambang
There is not a lot to do in Battambang,
but nevertheless it’s a nice place to spend a
day wandering down the old colonnaded
streets and exploring the central market,
which, unlike in Siem Reap, is a practical
Cambodian affair with few concessions to
tourists.
Day %: Travel to Phnom Penh
Travel by bus to Phnom Penh, arriving
about 4pm. Once you have checked in to
your hotel head over to Sisowath Quay on
the riverfront. Enjoy a margarita at Cantina,
something tasty and French at La
Croisette, or something overpriced but
with a beautiful view at the FCC. When it
comes to dining, Phnom Penh has a dizzying
choice of venues serving food from
every corner of the globe. Why not start
with Khmer food? Malis on Norodom
Boulevard serves artfully prepared Cambodian
dishes from the kitchen of celebrated
Cambodian chef Luu Meng (p. 78).
Day ^: Phnom Penh
Take in some of Phnom Penh’s numerous
sites. Start with the Royal Palace (p. 82)
and the National Museum (p. 82). Then
move on to Wat Phnom (p. 84). In the
afternoon, check out the Psar Toul Tom
Poung, also known as the Russian Market
(p. 87). This vast complex sells just about
everything you can think of and some
things you never could. In the evening,
cross the Tonle Sap to the Prek Leap district
where you will find a succession of
large traditional Khmer restaurants by the
river. Many of them also have bands and
singers playing often-melancholic traditional
songs.
57
SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES 4
THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS IN 3 WEEKS