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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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56<br />

SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES<br />

4<br />

THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS IN 3 WEEKS<br />

Day 1: Journey to Luang Prabang<br />

Once you have completed immigration<br />

formalities in Huay Xai, walk down to the<br />

left <strong>of</strong> the immigration building to where<br />

the slow boats to Luang Prabang are<br />

moored. <strong>The</strong>se used to be commercial vessels<br />

for which you had to haggle hard to<br />

get a decent price for passage, and you<br />

shared the journey with farmers (and <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

their livestock). Now there are boats specifically<br />

assigned for tourists. <strong>The</strong> journey<br />

to Luang Prabang is 2 days <strong>of</strong> scenic views,<br />

sticky rice, and if you are lucky with your<br />

fellow passengers, convivial chitchat. You<br />

will stop for the night in Pakbeng. Be on<br />

the lookout for scams (and this, sadly,<br />

includes the children). Don’t let people<br />

carry your bags for you when you get <strong>of</strong>f<br />

the boat. This once very basic little onestreet<br />

town situated on a rocky bend <strong>of</strong> the<br />

river is now fairly developed. <strong>The</strong>re are a<br />

number <strong>of</strong> guesthouses and even some<br />

midrange hotels and chichi cafes.<br />

Day 2: Arrival in Luang Prabang<br />

Continue your slow trip down the<br />

Mekong. Enjoy the dramatic forested<br />

limestone mountain scenery, the passing<br />

rapids, and the village life along the riverbank.<br />

You will arrive in Luang Prabang at<br />

about 4pm. Once you have checked into<br />

your hotel, have a wander and take in the<br />

tranquil beauty <strong>of</strong> this most beautiful <strong>of</strong><br />

towns. Enjoy the c<strong>of</strong>fee, the baguettes, the<br />

wine, and the sunset.<br />

Day 3: Luang Prabang<br />

Tour the area’s temples and sights. Try a<br />

bowl <strong>of</strong> Vietnamese pho for lunch. Have a<br />

gander around the central market in the<br />

daytime and the night market in the<br />

evening.<br />

Day 4: Pak Ou Caves<br />

Visit Pak Ou Caves and see the massed<br />

Buddhas (p. 280). In the afternoon enjoy<br />

a herbal sauna and massage—Luang Prabang<br />

has become famous for them. Once<br />

suitably relaxed, head to where the longdistance<br />

ferries stop and watch the sunset<br />

as the sun glows red behind the mountain<br />

on the opposite bank <strong>of</strong> the river.<br />

Day 5: Arrival in Phonsavan<br />

Take the bus to Phonsavan. It will be your<br />

base from which to explore the Plain <strong>of</strong><br />

Jars. It’s a grueling 10 hours but the<br />

incredible scenery is worth the slog.<br />

Phonsavan is not a very interesting town<br />

(in fact, it’s downright dreary). Get fed<br />

and watered and call it an early night.<br />

Day 6: <strong>The</strong> Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars<br />

<strong>The</strong> best way to see the Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars is by<br />

booking a tour with one <strong>of</strong> the guesthouses<br />

in town (p. 294). Most <strong>of</strong> them<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer a package, costing about $14 per<br />

person. You can do it on your own, but it’s<br />

not recommended—since the jars are<br />

spread out in a number <strong>of</strong> groupings you<br />

might miss something significant.<br />

Day 7: Rte. 13 to Vang Vieng<br />

Take the bus to Vang Vieng. This is an<br />

8-hour drive where once again you are<br />

treated to some fantastic scenery along<br />

Rte. 13.<br />

Day 8: Vang Vieng<br />

Cross the Nam Song River and spend the<br />

morning wandering around the limestone<br />

outcrops on the other side. After heading<br />

back to town for lunch, enjoy the pointless<br />

but fun activity <strong>of</strong> “tubing”—drifting<br />

down the river on an inflated tractor inner<br />

tube.<br />

Day 9: Arrival in Vientiane<br />

Take a bus or minibus to Vientiane (about<br />

3 hr.). After lunch, take in some <strong>of</strong> the<br />

sights such as Wat Pha Kaeo and Wat Si<br />

Saket (p. 231). Have dinner in one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

big Lao riverside restaurants by the<br />

Mekong.<br />

Day 0: Vientiane<br />

Spend the morning visiting the National<br />

Museum (p. 228) and then take a drive<br />

around the city, being sure to pass the<br />

impressive but very Gallic Patuxai Monument<br />

(p. 230). In the afternoon, visit Talat

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