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56<br />
SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES<br />
4<br />
THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS IN 3 WEEKS<br />
Day 1: Journey to Luang Prabang<br />
Once you have completed immigration<br />
formalities in Huay Xai, walk down to the<br />
left <strong>of</strong> the immigration building to where<br />
the slow boats to Luang Prabang are<br />
moored. <strong>The</strong>se used to be commercial vessels<br />
for which you had to haggle hard to<br />
get a decent price for passage, and you<br />
shared the journey with farmers (and <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
their livestock). Now there are boats specifically<br />
assigned for tourists. <strong>The</strong> journey<br />
to Luang Prabang is 2 days <strong>of</strong> scenic views,<br />
sticky rice, and if you are lucky with your<br />
fellow passengers, convivial chitchat. You<br />
will stop for the night in Pakbeng. Be on<br />
the lookout for scams (and this, sadly,<br />
includes the children). Don’t let people<br />
carry your bags for you when you get <strong>of</strong>f<br />
the boat. This once very basic little onestreet<br />
town situated on a rocky bend <strong>of</strong> the<br />
river is now fairly developed. <strong>The</strong>re are a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> guesthouses and even some<br />
midrange hotels and chichi cafes.<br />
Day 2: Arrival in Luang Prabang<br />
Continue your slow trip down the<br />
Mekong. Enjoy the dramatic forested<br />
limestone mountain scenery, the passing<br />
rapids, and the village life along the riverbank.<br />
You will arrive in Luang Prabang at<br />
about 4pm. Once you have checked into<br />
your hotel, have a wander and take in the<br />
tranquil beauty <strong>of</strong> this most beautiful <strong>of</strong><br />
towns. Enjoy the c<strong>of</strong>fee, the baguettes, the<br />
wine, and the sunset.<br />
Day 3: Luang Prabang<br />
Tour the area’s temples and sights. Try a<br />
bowl <strong>of</strong> Vietnamese pho for lunch. Have a<br />
gander around the central market in the<br />
daytime and the night market in the<br />
evening.<br />
Day 4: Pak Ou Caves<br />
Visit Pak Ou Caves and see the massed<br />
Buddhas (p. 280). In the afternoon enjoy<br />
a herbal sauna and massage—Luang Prabang<br />
has become famous for them. Once<br />
suitably relaxed, head to where the longdistance<br />
ferries stop and watch the sunset<br />
as the sun glows red behind the mountain<br />
on the opposite bank <strong>of</strong> the river.<br />
Day 5: Arrival in Phonsavan<br />
Take the bus to Phonsavan. It will be your<br />
base from which to explore the Plain <strong>of</strong><br />
Jars. It’s a grueling 10 hours but the<br />
incredible scenery is worth the slog.<br />
Phonsavan is not a very interesting town<br />
(in fact, it’s downright dreary). Get fed<br />
and watered and call it an early night.<br />
Day 6: <strong>The</strong> Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars<br />
<strong>The</strong> best way to see the Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars is by<br />
booking a tour with one <strong>of</strong> the guesthouses<br />
in town (p. 294). Most <strong>of</strong> them<br />
<strong>of</strong>fer a package, costing about $14 per<br />
person. You can do it on your own, but it’s<br />
not recommended—since the jars are<br />
spread out in a number <strong>of</strong> groupings you<br />
might miss something significant.<br />
Day 7: Rte. 13 to Vang Vieng<br />
Take the bus to Vang Vieng. This is an<br />
8-hour drive where once again you are<br />
treated to some fantastic scenery along<br />
Rte. 13.<br />
Day 8: Vang Vieng<br />
Cross the Nam Song River and spend the<br />
morning wandering around the limestone<br />
outcrops on the other side. After heading<br />
back to town for lunch, enjoy the pointless<br />
but fun activity <strong>of</strong> “tubing”—drifting<br />
down the river on an inflated tractor inner<br />
tube.<br />
Day 9: Arrival in Vientiane<br />
Take a bus or minibus to Vientiane (about<br />
3 hr.). After lunch, take in some <strong>of</strong> the<br />
sights such as Wat Pha Kaeo and Wat Si<br />
Saket (p. 231). Have dinner in one <strong>of</strong> the<br />
big Lao riverside restaurants by the<br />
Mekong.<br />
Day 0: Vientiane<br />
Spend the morning visiting the National<br />
Museum (p. 228) and then take a drive<br />
around the city, being sure to pass the<br />
impressive but very Gallic Patuxai Monument<br />
(p. 230). In the afternoon, visit Talat