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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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52<br />

SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES<br />

4<br />

THE BEST OF CAMBODIA IN 1 WEEK<br />

<strong>The</strong> markets and boutiques <strong>of</strong> Siem<br />

Reap are stuffed with all kinds <strong>of</strong> goodies,<br />

so now’s a good time to head back for<br />

some shopping. Hand-woven <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />

silks, stone carvings (including replicas <strong>of</strong><br />

those mesmerizing Bayon heads and the<br />

shapely serene apsaras that you have just<br />

spent so many hours viewing), woodcarvings,<br />

contemporary <strong>Cambodia</strong>n art, handicrafts<br />

and traditional musical instruments,<br />

temple rubbings, silver betel containers,<br />

colored gems, and wickerwork—you will<br />

find all these around town.<br />

Day 3: Phnom Penh<br />

In the morning, fly to Phnom Penh. If you<br />

arrive in time for lunch, head to the riverfront<br />

around Sisowath Quay where you<br />

can eat while adjusting to the frantic bustle<br />

<strong>of</strong> the city.<br />

After you have finished your food wander<br />

the few yards to Street 178, have a peek<br />

at the art galleries and boutiques, and take<br />

a look around the stunning collection <strong>of</strong><br />

Angkorian and pre-Angkorian sculpture in<br />

the National Museum (p. 82). <strong>The</strong> Royal<br />

Palace (p. 82) just next door is your next<br />

port <strong>of</strong> call. <strong>The</strong>n take a moto up to Wat<br />

Phnom, the namesake heart <strong>of</strong> Phnom<br />

Penh (p. 84). Since you are already near the<br />

river, head back to Sisowath Quay for some<br />

well-deserved refreshment. Look out for<br />

Phnom Penh’s only elephant, the muchloved<br />

and delightful Sambo.<br />

Phnom Penh is replete with restaurants,<br />

bars, and nightlife <strong>of</strong> all sorts. Plan your<br />

evening according to your tastes.<br />

Day 4: History & a Mekong Cruise<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong> is a country <strong>of</strong> incredible history,<br />

but some <strong>of</strong> it is simply horrific. If<br />

you are to have any understanding <strong>of</strong> this<br />

place, you will need to visit Tuol Sleng or<br />

S21 (p. 83). You may leave the building<br />

weeping at the thought <strong>of</strong> the fate <strong>of</strong> all<br />

those faces staring out <strong>of</strong> the fading blackand-white<br />

photographs, but you will come<br />

away with a greater understanding <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>. Equally you can follow that<br />

with a trip to Choeung Ek, the Killing<br />

Fields where the terrified victims <strong>of</strong> S21<br />

met an undeserved oblivion (p. 80). If you<br />

are with younger children, then <strong>of</strong> course<br />

these places should be skipped. With older<br />

children, it’s a tough call and should be<br />

handled carefully, because it is all very real.<br />

After lunch, take a cruise down the<br />

Mekong. You can find boats near the<br />

Royal Palace. You can see how different<br />

the city looks from the water and you will<br />

also pass traditional fishing villages.<br />

In the evening, cross the Japanese<br />

Bridge to Prek Leap and have dinner at<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the popular traditional Khmer restaurants.<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> these have music and<br />

even stand-up comedy, which is slapstick<br />

enough that you will probably laugh, even<br />

if you don’t understand a word.<br />

Day 5: Haggling at the Market<br />

If you aren’t all shopped out from Siem<br />

Reap, take a swing around Psar Toul Tom<br />

Poung, <strong>of</strong>ten referred to as the Russian<br />

Market (p. 87). You will be amazed at<br />

what you find. Bargaining here is a tough<br />

and time-consuming game. If you want a<br />

reasonable price it is necessary, but do it<br />

with a joke and a smile.<br />

After lunch take the bus to Sihanoukville,<br />

arriving in the late afternoon in<br />

time for an aperitif while watching the sun<br />

sink over the Gulf <strong>of</strong> Thailand.<br />

Day 6: Sihanoukville<br />

Today your only goal is to relax on the<br />

beach. You can eat crab or lobster cooked<br />

right in front <strong>of</strong> you by passing vendors.<br />

Day 7: More Relaxing or Optional<br />

Kampot<br />

Either continue to relax on the beaches <strong>of</strong><br />

Sihanoukville, or head the short distance<br />

over to Kampot to enjoy the languid<br />

atmosphere <strong>of</strong> this small riverside town<br />

before taking the bus back to Phnom Penh<br />

for your flight out.

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