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52<br />
SUGGESTED CAMBODIA & LAOS ITINERARIES<br />
4<br />
THE BEST OF CAMBODIA IN 1 WEEK<br />
<strong>The</strong> markets and boutiques <strong>of</strong> Siem<br />
Reap are stuffed with all kinds <strong>of</strong> goodies,<br />
so now’s a good time to head back for<br />
some shopping. Hand-woven <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />
silks, stone carvings (including replicas <strong>of</strong><br />
those mesmerizing Bayon heads and the<br />
shapely serene apsaras that you have just<br />
spent so many hours viewing), woodcarvings,<br />
contemporary <strong>Cambodia</strong>n art, handicrafts<br />
and traditional musical instruments,<br />
temple rubbings, silver betel containers,<br />
colored gems, and wickerwork—you will<br />
find all these around town.<br />
Day 3: Phnom Penh<br />
In the morning, fly to Phnom Penh. If you<br />
arrive in time for lunch, head to the riverfront<br />
around Sisowath Quay where you<br />
can eat while adjusting to the frantic bustle<br />
<strong>of</strong> the city.<br />
After you have finished your food wander<br />
the few yards to Street 178, have a peek<br />
at the art galleries and boutiques, and take<br />
a look around the stunning collection <strong>of</strong><br />
Angkorian and pre-Angkorian sculpture in<br />
the National Museum (p. 82). <strong>The</strong> Royal<br />
Palace (p. 82) just next door is your next<br />
port <strong>of</strong> call. <strong>The</strong>n take a moto up to Wat<br />
Phnom, the namesake heart <strong>of</strong> Phnom<br />
Penh (p. 84). Since you are already near the<br />
river, head back to Sisowath Quay for some<br />
well-deserved refreshment. Look out for<br />
Phnom Penh’s only elephant, the muchloved<br />
and delightful Sambo.<br />
Phnom Penh is replete with restaurants,<br />
bars, and nightlife <strong>of</strong> all sorts. Plan your<br />
evening according to your tastes.<br />
Day 4: History & a Mekong Cruise<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong> is a country <strong>of</strong> incredible history,<br />
but some <strong>of</strong> it is simply horrific. If<br />
you are to have any understanding <strong>of</strong> this<br />
place, you will need to visit Tuol Sleng or<br />
S21 (p. 83). You may leave the building<br />
weeping at the thought <strong>of</strong> the fate <strong>of</strong> all<br />
those faces staring out <strong>of</strong> the fading blackand-white<br />
photographs, but you will come<br />
away with a greater understanding <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>. Equally you can follow that<br />
with a trip to Choeung Ek, the Killing<br />
Fields where the terrified victims <strong>of</strong> S21<br />
met an undeserved oblivion (p. 80). If you<br />
are with younger children, then <strong>of</strong> course<br />
these places should be skipped. With older<br />
children, it’s a tough call and should be<br />
handled carefully, because it is all very real.<br />
After lunch, take a cruise down the<br />
Mekong. You can find boats near the<br />
Royal Palace. You can see how different<br />
the city looks from the water and you will<br />
also pass traditional fishing villages.<br />
In the evening, cross the Japanese<br />
Bridge to Prek Leap and have dinner at<br />
one <strong>of</strong> the popular traditional Khmer restaurants.<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> these have music and<br />
even stand-up comedy, which is slapstick<br />
enough that you will probably laugh, even<br />
if you don’t understand a word.<br />
Day 5: Haggling at the Market<br />
If you aren’t all shopped out from Siem<br />
Reap, take a swing around Psar Toul Tom<br />
Poung, <strong>of</strong>ten referred to as the Russian<br />
Market (p. 87). You will be amazed at<br />
what you find. Bargaining here is a tough<br />
and time-consuming game. If you want a<br />
reasonable price it is necessary, but do it<br />
with a joke and a smile.<br />
After lunch take the bus to Sihanoukville,<br />
arriving in the late afternoon in<br />
time for an aperitif while watching the sun<br />
sink over the Gulf <strong>of</strong> Thailand.<br />
Day 6: Sihanoukville<br />
Today your only goal is to relax on the<br />
beach. You can eat crab or lobster cooked<br />
right in front <strong>of</strong> you by passing vendors.<br />
Day 7: More Relaxing or Optional<br />
Kampot<br />
Either continue to relax on the beaches <strong>of</strong><br />
Sihanoukville, or head the short distance<br />
over to Kampot to enjoy the languid<br />
atmosphere <strong>of</strong> this small riverside town<br />
before taking the bus back to Phnom Penh<br />
for your flight out.