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4 Suggested <strong>Cambodia</strong> &<br />
<strong>Laos</strong> Itineraries<br />
<strong>The</strong> days when both <strong>Cambodia</strong> and <strong>Laos</strong> were countries where you<br />
could travel only by plane, unless you were an adventurer, are long gone. Roads are<br />
improved, buses are regular, and as a result the internal flight network is vastly reduced.<br />
Having said that, both countries remain very much in the developing stage, and charging<br />
around with a must-do checklist in a short space <strong>of</strong> time makes little sense. <strong>The</strong> pace <strong>of</strong><br />
life, particularly in <strong>Laos</strong> and rural <strong>Cambodia</strong>, is slow (though Phnom Penh is frenetic<br />
these days), so a more leisurely trip will keep you in tune with those around you. It is a<br />
good idea to think <strong>of</strong> what interests you most before you set <strong>of</strong>f. If you like history and<br />
ancient temples, then consider making Luang Prabang and Siem Reap the central part <strong>of</strong><br />
your trip. If nature is your thing, then river trips and protected areas in the north <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong><br />
should be the priority. For beaches and relaxation, start with the laid-back islands in the<br />
Mekong in southern <strong>Laos</strong>, followed by time spent on the beach at Sihanoukville in<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>. <strong>The</strong> mix-and-match opportunities are wide and varied.<br />
1 THE BEST OF CAMBODIA IN 1 WEEK<br />
If time is limited you are best <strong>of</strong>f doing fewer things well than tearing around <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />
doing everything badly. On a first visit, <strong>Cambodia</strong> can be a bit overwhelming, so the best<br />
way to ease into it is to fly to Siem Reap and start your trip with the Angkor Wat complex.<br />
Angkor is an overwhelmingly spectacular experience, but Siem Reap is a small town<br />
with good facilities where most things are walkable. Once you have arrived and checked<br />
into your hotel, head over to the Psar Chas area. Here you have the market, the antiques<br />
shops, souvenir stalls, and restaurants and cafes <strong>of</strong> every type. It’s a very compact area and<br />
a wander, a meal, and maybe a glass <strong>of</strong> wine or a cup <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee is a gentle way to kick <strong>of</strong>f<br />
your explorations.<br />
Day 1: Angkor Wat<br />
Get up before dawn and see the sun rise over<br />
Angkor Wat (p. 113) itself. As the sky glows<br />
red, this spectacular structure will reveal itself<br />
first in silhouette and then in all its immense<br />
glory. As the first major site you see in <strong>Cambodia</strong>,<br />
you’re <strong>of</strong>f to a pretty good start. After<br />
this curtain opener, a close-up tour <strong>of</strong> the<br />
temple itself is best undertaken in the afternoon,<br />
when its facade is no longer backlit<br />
and the afternoon sun begins to wash the<br />
carvings, towers, and reliefs in a s<strong>of</strong>ter direct<br />
light. After your bleary-eyed but dramatic<br />
sunrise experience it is time for you to charge<br />
over to one <strong>of</strong> the world’s most enigmatic<br />
structures while the light is still s<strong>of</strong>t: the<br />
Bayon (p. 116). Clambering over this astonishing<br />
structure will continue the highimpact<br />
start to your journey. <strong>The</strong>re are four<br />
gates to Angkor Thom where the Bayon is<br />
situated, but the south gate is most impressive.<br />
Some 200m (656 ft.) to the northwest<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Bayon is the Baphuon, the central<br />
structure <strong>of</strong> Angkor before the rest <strong>of</strong>