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36<br />
PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CAMBODIA<br />
3<br />
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND<br />
Pointing the Way with a Rhinoceros<br />
At major junctions and roundabouts in <strong>Cambodia</strong>, you will <strong>of</strong>ten see giant<br />
figures <strong>of</strong> animals, or familiar gods. <strong>The</strong>y are there for a practical reason. Many<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>ns are illiterate and can’t read road signs, so these provide easy markers.<br />
So for instance when a <strong>Cambodia</strong>n is giving directions he might say “Drive<br />
straight for a mile until you reach the white horse, then turn right and continue<br />
past the elephant god until you get to the rhinoceros and then turn left.”<br />
place in town to rent is Lucky! Lucky!<br />
(413 Monivong Blvd.). <strong>The</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> the<br />
bikes varies so it is important to check<br />
them first, and don’t be afraid to insist on<br />
a different bike if you have been given a<br />
bad one.<br />
If you are driving yourself, whether on<br />
two wheels or four, be aware that the traffic<br />
is very unpredictable and <strong>of</strong>ten lethal.<br />
<strong>The</strong> accident rate increased by 35% from<br />
August 2008 to August 2009, according to<br />
government figures. Driving is chaotic and<br />
fast with all the dangers that brings.<br />
By Motorcycle Taxi<br />
Motorcycle taxis (or motodups as they are<br />
termed in Khmer) are everywhere in <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />
and <strong>of</strong>ten the quickest way to get<br />
around. Just hail one from the sidewalk.<br />
Most restaurants and hotels will also have<br />
a stand <strong>of</strong> affiliated drivers. If you find one<br />
you like, write down his phone number<br />
and use him again. Most trips around<br />
town will cost less than a dollar during the<br />
day. At night, you normally double the<br />
fee. Most people don’t wear a helmet, but<br />
they should, given the dubious quality <strong>of</strong><br />
both the motorcycles and the driving.<br />
By Cyclo<br />
A gentler but slower way to see the sites,<br />
the cyclo, a tricycle with a front carriage<br />
propelled by a person cycling behind it,<br />
operates under the same rules and pretty<br />
much the same rates as the motorcycle<br />
taxis. Cyclos take a lot <strong>of</strong> the stress out <strong>of</strong><br />
getting from point A to point B. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />
also good in the rain since the cyclo driver<br />
will bring out plastic sheeting to shelter<br />
you from the elements.<br />
By Tuk-Tuk & Samlor<br />
<strong>The</strong> tuk-tuk and samlor are relatively new<br />
arrivals in <strong>Cambodia</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y are motorcycles<br />
with a trailer attached using a fairly<br />
ingenious adaptor. As long as you have<br />
more than two people, the tuk-tuk is actually<br />
the cheapest mode <strong>of</strong> transport. When<br />
in Siem Reap, you can hire a tuk-tuk for<br />
the day to tour the temples. <strong>The</strong> cost is<br />
between $5 and $10 for the day.<br />
By Train<br />
<strong>The</strong>re was in the past a train that made the<br />
journey from Phnom Penh to Battambang<br />
on alternate days, although at the time <strong>of</strong><br />
writing it has been suspended. Passenger<br />
services running to Sihanoukville and<br />
Kampot have also been axed. Though<br />
there is talk <strong>of</strong> reviving the creaky <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />
rail, nothing has yet been done.<br />
By Bus<br />
Long-distance buses now go to all major<br />
towns in <strong>Cambodia</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y tend to operate<br />
from the central market area in most<br />
towns. In Phnom Penh, different companies<br />
leave from different parts <strong>of</strong> town,<br />
although across from Psar Thmei (Central<br />
Market) is where you will find the<br />
departure points for both Sorya and GST<br />
Express. <strong>The</strong>y are reasonably priced but