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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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36<br />

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CAMBODIA<br />

3<br />

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND<br />

Pointing the Way with a Rhinoceros<br />

At major junctions and roundabouts in <strong>Cambodia</strong>, you will <strong>of</strong>ten see giant<br />

figures <strong>of</strong> animals, or familiar gods. <strong>The</strong>y are there for a practical reason. Many<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>ns are illiterate and can’t read road signs, so these provide easy markers.<br />

So for instance when a <strong>Cambodia</strong>n is giving directions he might say “Drive<br />

straight for a mile until you reach the white horse, then turn right and continue<br />

past the elephant god until you get to the rhinoceros and then turn left.”<br />

place in town to rent is Lucky! Lucky!<br />

(413 Monivong Blvd.). <strong>The</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> the<br />

bikes varies so it is important to check<br />

them first, and don’t be afraid to insist on<br />

a different bike if you have been given a<br />

bad one.<br />

If you are driving yourself, whether on<br />

two wheels or four, be aware that the traffic<br />

is very unpredictable and <strong>of</strong>ten lethal.<br />

<strong>The</strong> accident rate increased by 35% from<br />

August 2008 to August 2009, according to<br />

government figures. Driving is chaotic and<br />

fast with all the dangers that brings.<br />

By Motorcycle Taxi<br />

Motorcycle taxis (or motodups as they are<br />

termed in Khmer) are everywhere in <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />

and <strong>of</strong>ten the quickest way to get<br />

around. Just hail one from the sidewalk.<br />

Most restaurants and hotels will also have<br />

a stand <strong>of</strong> affiliated drivers. If you find one<br />

you like, write down his phone number<br />

and use him again. Most trips around<br />

town will cost less than a dollar during the<br />

day. At night, you normally double the<br />

fee. Most people don’t wear a helmet, but<br />

they should, given the dubious quality <strong>of</strong><br />

both the motorcycles and the driving.<br />

By Cyclo<br />

A gentler but slower way to see the sites,<br />

the cyclo, a tricycle with a front carriage<br />

propelled by a person cycling behind it,<br />

operates under the same rules and pretty<br />

much the same rates as the motorcycle<br />

taxis. Cyclos take a lot <strong>of</strong> the stress out <strong>of</strong><br />

getting from point A to point B. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />

also good in the rain since the cyclo driver<br />

will bring out plastic sheeting to shelter<br />

you from the elements.<br />

By Tuk-Tuk & Samlor<br />

<strong>The</strong> tuk-tuk and samlor are relatively new<br />

arrivals in <strong>Cambodia</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y are motorcycles<br />

with a trailer attached using a fairly<br />

ingenious adaptor. As long as you have<br />

more than two people, the tuk-tuk is actually<br />

the cheapest mode <strong>of</strong> transport. When<br />

in Siem Reap, you can hire a tuk-tuk for<br />

the day to tour the temples. <strong>The</strong> cost is<br />

between $5 and $10 for the day.<br />

By Train<br />

<strong>The</strong>re was in the past a train that made the<br />

journey from Phnom Penh to Battambang<br />

on alternate days, although at the time <strong>of</strong><br />

writing it has been suspended. Passenger<br />

services running to Sihanoukville and<br />

Kampot have also been axed. Though<br />

there is talk <strong>of</strong> reviving the creaky <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />

rail, nothing has yet been done.<br />

By Bus<br />

Long-distance buses now go to all major<br />

towns in <strong>Cambodia</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y tend to operate<br />

from the central market area in most<br />

towns. In Phnom Penh, different companies<br />

leave from different parts <strong>of</strong> town,<br />

although across from Psar Thmei (Central<br />

Market) is where you will find the<br />

departure points for both Sorya and GST<br />

Express. <strong>The</strong>y are reasonably priced but

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