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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Wherever you are, stick only to bottled<br />

water. You can also get cold fizzy drinks in<br />

most places, but they tend to be sickly<br />

sweet. You are also relatively safe with the<br />

fruit shakes sold at stalls and in markets.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are popular and very refreshing. Beer<br />

both local and imported, and brewed<br />

under license, is available everywhere.<br />

Angkor is the original <strong>Cambodia</strong>n beer<br />

and is not bad, though it will give you a<br />

headache if imbibed in quantity. A good<br />

alternative is the similarly named Anchor.<br />

Pronounce it “Antchor” if you don’t want<br />

them to give you Angkor by mistake.<br />

7 ETIQUETTE IN CAMBODIA<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong> is a very conservative country<br />

where modesty is the order <strong>of</strong> the day. You<br />

can dress skimpily, but it won’t do you any<br />

favors in terms <strong>of</strong> the Khmers’ perception<br />

<strong>of</strong> you. Likewise, openly public displays <strong>of</strong><br />

affection will embarrass people, so don’t<br />

do it.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Krama: A Scarf for All Seasons<br />

As with other countries in the region<br />

the concept <strong>of</strong> “face” governs social interaction<br />

on every level. You will get things<br />

done faster if you go out <strong>of</strong> your way to<br />

make sure that you don’t cause someone to<br />

lose face. If you get angry, try not to show<br />

it. Another thing to remember is that a<br />

Everywhere you go in the <strong>Cambodia</strong>n countryside, you will see the checkered<br />

pattern <strong>of</strong> the krama. This ubiquitous cotton scarf performs many functions. It<br />

shades a weary head from the sun. It keeps dust out <strong>of</strong> the eyes and mouth. It<br />

is a carryall, whether that be fruit, money, or babies. It is a skirt, a sarong, a<br />

tablecloth, a towel, and a hammock. I have even seen them used to temporarily<br />

fix the loose undercarriage <strong>of</strong> an aging Toyota Camry.<br />

<strong>The</strong> krama is also, to some extent, the symbol <strong>of</strong> being Khmer and being a<br />

farmer. When Prime Minister Hun Sen (no privileged kid he, Hun Sun is from<br />

tough peasant stock in Kompong Cham Province) canvasses in the countryside<br />

he dons a krama, puts on the khaki cargo pants, and stands in rice paddies,<br />

reminding his constituents that he is the same as them.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re have also been very sinister uses <strong>of</strong> the krama in Khmer history. In<br />

1978, Pol Pot ordered the Eastern Zone purged. <strong>The</strong> people <strong>of</strong> the east were<br />

transported to the “loyal” Southwestern Zone run by Pol Pot’s brutal one-eyed<br />

henchman, Ta Mok. Each deportee was issued with a brand-new blue krama.<br />

Maybe they thought he was looking out for their physical well-being. In reality,<br />

Ta Mok ordered that anyone seen wearing the blue krama be marked for death.<br />

Kramas do not come only in rough, practical cotton. <strong>The</strong>re are also patterned<br />

silk versions with intricate stripes and patterns. <strong>The</strong> origins <strong>of</strong> the krama<br />

most likely lie in ancient Angkorian times when a simple cloth was used to<br />

cover the upper body. Variations <strong>of</strong> the krama are also worn by rural people in<br />

<strong>Laos</strong> and Thailand, but only in <strong>Cambodia</strong> is this simple piece <strong>of</strong> cloth an affirmation<br />

<strong>of</strong> identity.<br />

27<br />

CAMBODIA IN DEPTH 2<br />

ETIQUETTE IN CAMBODIA

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