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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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24<br />

CAMBODIA IN DEPTH<br />

2<br />

CAMBODIA’S ART & ARCHITECTURE<br />

Who Are the Khmers?<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the most ethnically homogenous nations in Asia, with 96%<br />

<strong>of</strong> its population being ethnically Khmer. Apart from that there are communities<br />

<strong>of</strong> Vietnamese, Chinese, Cham (both Muslim and Buddhist), plus animist<br />

hill tribe groups in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri. <strong>The</strong> Khmers have been in this<br />

area since the start <strong>of</strong> recorded history, long before the Thais or Vietnamese<br />

migrated here. This fairly straightforward story <strong>of</strong> Khmer ethnicity gives the<br />

Khmers a strong sense <strong>of</strong> collective self, despite all the upheavals they have<br />

undergone. Even 1,000 years later, a pride in the cultural achievements <strong>of</strong> Angkor<br />

is central to Khmer identity. <strong>The</strong>re are also many Khmers living in the northeastern<br />

Thai provinces <strong>of</strong> Buriram, Surin, and Sisaket as well as in Vietnam’s<br />

Mekong Delta. Ethnically these provinces were Khmer but were dislocated as a<br />

result <strong>of</strong> the ebb and flow <strong>of</strong> empire.<br />

Penh to the area <strong>of</strong> Prek Leap, you’ll find a<br />

number <strong>of</strong> very lively music and karaoke<br />

joints <strong>of</strong>ten interspersed with live comedy.<br />

People go to eat food, drink beer, and sing<br />

their hearts out. It’s a very <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />

experience.<br />

DANCE<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>n classical dance is breathtakingly<br />

elegant. Related to the palace and the<br />

court, this ancient art was an integral part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>n royal ritual. Although the<br />

skills declined after the wane <strong>of</strong> Angkor,<br />

they were resurrected by the French as part<br />

<strong>of</strong> a policy <strong>of</strong> fostering Khmer national<br />

pride. It is related to dance in Thailand<br />

and although Khmer dance came first,<br />

Thai dance is purer and closer to the Angkorian<br />

ideal since it is in more direct line<br />

without the influence <strong>of</strong> the French.<br />

<strong>The</strong> slow, elegant hand movements, the<br />

exquisite costumes, and the ethereal music<br />

all contribute to creating what feels like an<br />

otherworldly experience. Many <strong>of</strong> the<br />

themes come from Hindu epics such as<br />

the Ramayana. <strong>The</strong> Khmer Rouge nearly<br />

killed <strong>of</strong>f this ancient art, yet a few trained<br />

practitioners survived. In 1981, the School<br />

<strong>of</strong> Fine Arts was reopened in Phnom Penh<br />

and the knowledge salvaged from the skills<br />

<strong>of</strong> the few has been taught to many.<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>ns love to dance in general,<br />

whether that’s the traditional ramvong (a<br />

slow dance where people walk around<br />

slowly in a circle making traditional hand<br />

movements) or a Saturday night out where<br />

Dad, Mom, and the kids head down to the<br />

local hop and get down in one glorious<br />

family boogie to whatever dance music the<br />

DJ or band is <strong>of</strong>fering.<br />

THEATER<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>n classical theater consists <strong>of</strong><br />

highly stylized tellings <strong>of</strong> the Hindu epics<br />

such as the Ramayana. <strong>The</strong> art form is<br />

called lakhaon kaol, a dance-drama performed<br />

by men and based on tales from the<br />

Ramayana. This seminal Hindu epic, in<br />

which gods and monkeys battle demons<br />

and ogres and show supernatural powers as<br />

they triumph over evil is a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />

national consciousness and remains a<br />

source <strong>of</strong> inspiration for <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s artists.

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