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24<br />
CAMBODIA IN DEPTH<br />
2<br />
CAMBODIA’S ART & ARCHITECTURE<br />
Who Are the Khmers?<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the most ethnically homogenous nations in Asia, with 96%<br />
<strong>of</strong> its population being ethnically Khmer. Apart from that there are communities<br />
<strong>of</strong> Vietnamese, Chinese, Cham (both Muslim and Buddhist), plus animist<br />
hill tribe groups in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri. <strong>The</strong> Khmers have been in this<br />
area since the start <strong>of</strong> recorded history, long before the Thais or Vietnamese<br />
migrated here. This fairly straightforward story <strong>of</strong> Khmer ethnicity gives the<br />
Khmers a strong sense <strong>of</strong> collective self, despite all the upheavals they have<br />
undergone. Even 1,000 years later, a pride in the cultural achievements <strong>of</strong> Angkor<br />
is central to Khmer identity. <strong>The</strong>re are also many Khmers living in the northeastern<br />
Thai provinces <strong>of</strong> Buriram, Surin, and Sisaket as well as in Vietnam’s<br />
Mekong Delta. Ethnically these provinces were Khmer but were dislocated as a<br />
result <strong>of</strong> the ebb and flow <strong>of</strong> empire.<br />
Penh to the area <strong>of</strong> Prek Leap, you’ll find a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> very lively music and karaoke<br />
joints <strong>of</strong>ten interspersed with live comedy.<br />
People go to eat food, drink beer, and sing<br />
their hearts out. It’s a very <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />
experience.<br />
DANCE<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>n classical dance is breathtakingly<br />
elegant. Related to the palace and the<br />
court, this ancient art was an integral part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>n royal ritual. Although the<br />
skills declined after the wane <strong>of</strong> Angkor,<br />
they were resurrected by the French as part<br />
<strong>of</strong> a policy <strong>of</strong> fostering Khmer national<br />
pride. It is related to dance in Thailand<br />
and although Khmer dance came first,<br />
Thai dance is purer and closer to the Angkorian<br />
ideal since it is in more direct line<br />
without the influence <strong>of</strong> the French.<br />
<strong>The</strong> slow, elegant hand movements, the<br />
exquisite costumes, and the ethereal music<br />
all contribute to creating what feels like an<br />
otherworldly experience. Many <strong>of</strong> the<br />
themes come from Hindu epics such as<br />
the Ramayana. <strong>The</strong> Khmer Rouge nearly<br />
killed <strong>of</strong>f this ancient art, yet a few trained<br />
practitioners survived. In 1981, the School<br />
<strong>of</strong> Fine Arts was reopened in Phnom Penh<br />
and the knowledge salvaged from the skills<br />
<strong>of</strong> the few has been taught to many.<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>ns love to dance in general,<br />
whether that’s the traditional ramvong (a<br />
slow dance where people walk around<br />
slowly in a circle making traditional hand<br />
movements) or a Saturday night out where<br />
Dad, Mom, and the kids head down to the<br />
local hop and get down in one glorious<br />
family boogie to whatever dance music the<br />
DJ or band is <strong>of</strong>fering.<br />
THEATER<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>n classical theater consists <strong>of</strong><br />
highly stylized tellings <strong>of</strong> the Hindu epics<br />
such as the Ramayana. <strong>The</strong> art form is<br />
called lakhaon kaol, a dance-drama performed<br />
by men and based on tales from the<br />
Ramayana. This seminal Hindu epic, in<br />
which gods and monkeys battle demons<br />
and ogres and show supernatural powers as<br />
they triumph over evil is a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />
national consciousness and remains a<br />
source <strong>of</strong> inspiration for <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s artists.