334 Language <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 321 Khmer, 325–327 Lao, 327–330 <strong>Laos</strong>, 323 Lao Bowling Centre (Vientiane), 234 Lao Buddha Shop (Luang Prabang), 284 Lao Issara (Day <strong>of</strong> the Free <strong>Laos</strong>), 194 Lao National Day, 194 Lao National Museum (Vientiane), 228, 230 Lao National <strong>The</strong>atre (Vientiane), 239 Lao New Year (Boun Pi Mai), 193 Laundry (Siem Reap), 128–129 Le Lezard Bleu (Phnom Penh), 87 Les Artisans Lao (Vientiane), 237 L’Etranger Books & Tea (Luang Prabang), 283 Liberation Day (<strong>Cambodia</strong>), 30 Linga (Siem Reap), 129 Lockjaw (tetanus), 41 Love Orange Club (Phnom Penh), 89 Luang Prabang, 252–286 accommodations, 258–264 ATMs, 284 attractions, 270–282 banks and currency exchange, 285 bicycle and motorcycle rentals, 285 business hours, 285 climate, 285 doctors and hospitals, 285 getting around, 257–258 Internet access, 285 nightlife, 286 organized tours, 281–282 orientation, 254–255 post <strong>of</strong>fice, 286 restaurants, 264–282 road journey from Vang Vieng to, 251 shopping, 283 side trip to the Nam Ou River, 286 snacks and cafes, 269–270 street names, 258 telephone, 286 tourism information, 286 traveling to, 255–257 visitor information and tours, 258 walking tour, 279–280 Luang Pra-bang, 3 Luang Say Cruises (Luang Prabang), 257 Luang Say Mekong Cruise (Luang Prabang), 282 Lucky! Lucky! (Phnom Penh), 62 Lucky Market (Phnom Penh), 88 Lumkut Lake, 150 Lunar 36 (Vientiane), 238 Mahaxai, 306 Mahaxai Caves and the Khammouane Protected Area (near Tha Khek), 306 Mail, 321–323 Make Merit (Tak Bat; Luang Prabang), 275 Malaria, 40–41, 202 Martini Lounge (Vientiane), 238 Massage and sauna. See also Spas Huay Xai, 290 Phnom Penh, 85–86 Vientiane, 234 Meak Bochea Day (Magha Puja Day; <strong>Cambodia</strong>), 30 Medical requirements for entry <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 32 <strong>Laos</strong>, 195–196 Meditation, Vientiane, 234 Meta House (Phnom Penh), 91 Minefields, <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 136 Miss Wong (Siem Reap), 128 M’lop Tapang Gift Shop (Sihanoukville), 163 Molly Malone’s (Siem Reap), 129 Mondulkiri, 151 Money and costs <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 37–38 <strong>Laos</strong>, 201 Monkey Bar (Don Det), 319 Monument Books, 89, 127, 235, 283 Morning Market (Talat Sao; Vientiane), 232, 236 Motorcycle taxis, <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 36 Motorcycle travel <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 35–36 <strong>Laos</strong>, 199–201 Muang Kham, hot springs at, 296 Muang Khoun, 296 Muang Ngoi Neua, 287 Muangsua Hotel (Luang Prabang), 286 Museum <strong>of</strong> Tribes (Phongsali), 288 Music, 23, 187–188 Naga Creations (Luang Prabang), 284 Nam Ou River, 3, 286 National Museum (Phnom Penh), 82 Neak Krorhorm Travel and Tours (Siem Reap), 126 New Market (Siem Reap), 128 Newspapers and magazines <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 322 <strong>Laos</strong>, 323–324 New Year Chinese <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 30 <strong>Laos</strong>, 193 Hmong (<strong>Laos</strong>), 194 Khmer, 30 Khmer New Year (Chaul Chhnam Thmey), 30 Lao (Boun Pi Mai), 193 Vietnamese (<strong>Laos</strong>), 193 New Year’s Day International (<strong>Cambodia</strong>), 30 <strong>Laos</strong>, 193 <strong>The</strong> Night Market (Luang Prabang), 283 Nong Kiaow, 3, 286–287 November Water Festival (<strong>Cambodia</strong>), 31 Oasis Resort, 48 Ochheuteal, 153 Ochheuteal Beach, 152, 163 OckPopTok (Luang Prabang), 284 On the Rock (Vientiane), 238 OSMOSE, 123 Osmose, Siem Reap, 125 Oudong, 87 Out Adventures, 43, 204 Overseas Adventure Travel, 44, 204 Paddy’s Sports Center (Phnom Penh), 85 Pakbeng, 291–292
Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307–314 Paksong, 320 Parkway Health Club (Phnom Penh), 85 Passports, <strong>Laos</strong>, 195 Pathana Boupha Antique House (Luang Prabang), 284 Pathet Lao Day, 193 Patuxai Monument (Vientiane), 230, 232 Peace Art Project <strong>Cambodia</strong> (PAPC), 88 Pepy Tours, 46 Phapaheng Waterfalls, 319 Phatoke Laoderm (Vientiane), 239 Phimpone Market (Vientiane), 236 Phimpone Market 2 (Vientiane), 236 Phnom Banan (Battambang), 144 Phnom Chhork, 173 Phnom Chisor, 87 Phnom Doh Kromom Pagoda (Mondulkiri), 151 Phnom Penh, 59–92 accommodations, 63–71 American Express, 91 ATMs, 91 attractions, 80–86 banks and currency exchange, 91 business hours, 91 day trips outside, 87 doctors & hospitals, 91 embassies and consulates, 91 getting around, 61–62 Internet access, 91–92 layout <strong>of</strong>, 59–60 maps, 92 newspapers and magazines, 92 nightlife, 89–91 pharmacies, 92 post <strong>of</strong>fice, 92 restaurants, 71–80 safety, 92 shopping & galleries, 87–89 snacks and cafes, 79–80 telephone, 92 tourism information, 92 traveling to, 60–61 Phnom Penh International Airport, 60 Phnom Sampeou Mountain (Battambang), 144 Phnom Sasear, 173 Phnom Sla Ta’aun, 173 Phongsali, 288–289 Phonsavan, 292–296 Phou Fa (Sky Mountain), 288 Phou Noy, 288 Phousi, Mount (Luang Prabang), 270 Phra That Luang (Vientiane), 230 Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars, 294–296 Planning your trip to <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 29–49 calendar <strong>of</strong> events, 30–31 entry requirements, 31–32 getting around, 35–37 health concerns, 38–41 money and costs, 37–38 safety and crime, 41–43 specialized travel resources, 43–45 staying connected, 48–49 sustainable tourism, 45–48 traveling to <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 33–35 when to go, 29 to <strong>Laos</strong>, 192–209 calendar <strong>of</strong> events, 193–194 entry requirements, 195 escorted tours, 208 health concerns, 202–203 money and costs, 201–202 specialized travel resources, 204–206 staying connected, 208–209 sustainable tourism, 206–207 traveling to <strong>Laos</strong>, 196–198 when to go, 192 Police <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 322 <strong>Laos</strong>, 324 Politics, <strong>Cambodia</strong>n, 20 Pol Pot, 18 Pontoon Lounge (Phnom Penh), 89 Poulou Wai, 161 PPS Circus (Battambang), 143 Preah Khan (Angkor), 120 Preah Vihear, 130 Preak Toal, 123 Prek Tuk Sap Estuary, 162 Pre Rup (Angkor), 118 Presidential Palace (Vientiane), 232 Prostitution, 42 Provincial Museum (Battambang), 144 Provincial Museum (Savannakhet), 301 Psar Banlung, 150 Psar Chas, the Old Market (Siem Reap), 128 Psar Leu Battambang, 144 Sihanoukville, 163 Psar Nath (Battambang), 144 PTM (Siem Reap), 126 Pulp (Battambang), 144 Q&A (Sihanoukville), 163 Q Bar (Vang Vieng), 248 Rabbit Island, 173 Rabies, 40 Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor (Siem Reap), Apsara Dance, 131 Raffles Hotel Le Royal (Phnom Penh), pool, sauna, and gym at, 85 Rainfall, average, <strong>Cambodia</strong>, 29 Rajana (Sihanoukville), 163 Ratanakiri, 148–151 Ream National Park, 162 Reclining Buddha at Wat Rahtanharahm (near Banlung), 151 Remote Asia (<strong>Laos</strong>), 200, 208, 235, 282, 304, 308 Restaurants. See also Restaurants Index best, 7–8 Richner, Dr. Beat (Beatocello), 131 River cruises, Phnom Penh, 90 Riverhouse Lounge (Phnom Penh), 89–90 Riverside Balcony Bar (Battambang), 144 Rock climbing, <strong>Laos</strong>, 207 Vang Vieng, 249 Rocket Festival (Boun Bang Fai), 193–194 Roluos Group, 123 335
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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