The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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324 FAST FACTS 16 FAST FACTS: LAOS and Luang Prabang you can get the Bangkok Post in some bookshops and international magazines such as Time and Newsweek. POLICE In Laos, the police are not your friends. They are generally surly and corrupt. The most obvious way to avoid having contact with them is by not breaking the law. If you should find yourself having to deal with them for whatever reason, be polite but not fearful. If you have something stolen and need a police report for insurance purposes you may find that the police will attempt to extract a “fee” for their services. If you can, bring a Lao speaker with you to aid negotiation. SMOKING Smoking is banned in many public places, particularly in Luang Prabang, where it is forbidden near many of the famous sites. Smoking is voluntarily banned in hospitals, educational facilities, and government buildings. TAXES Taxes are levied in the form of VAT. A departure tax of $10 is payable on leaving the country by air. TELEPHONES See p. 209 in chapter 10, “Planning Your Trip to Laos.” TIME ZONES Laos is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. TIPPING Tipping is not generally a Lao custom but is appreciated in some tourist areas. Check that service is not already included. Tipping 10% of the bill is more than acceptable. WATER Do not drink the water or brush your teeth with it. Bottled water is freely available. Make sure the bottle is properly sealed on purchase.
Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LANGUAGE The language of Cambodia is called Khmer, a term that refers to the ethnic majority of the country but is also used to describe all things Cambodian: Khmer people (the Khmer), Khmer food, and Khmer culture. The Khmer language belongs to the Mon- Khmer family. Written Khmer script is based on Pallava script from south India. It is ancient and very complex. Unlike in neighboring Thailand and Laos, the Khmer language is not tonal and is thus more merciful to the casual learner. Basic pronunciation is still frustrating and difficult, however. Khmer embraces many loaner words from French, Chinese, and now English, especially technical terms. Although many Cambodians used to speak French, that is no longer the case. The second language of choice is English these days and it is amazing how many people have learned to speak it, especially the young. In the major tourist centers, speaking slowly and clearly in basic English phrases will do the trick, but a few choice phrases in Khmer will get you far. USEFUL KHMER PHRASES English Khmer Hello Sew sadday Goodbye Lia hoy Thank you Aw koon Thank you very much Aw koon chalan How are you? Sook sabai? I am fine Sook sabai Yes (man) Baat Yes (woman) Jaa No Ah tay I’m sorry Sum tow Toilet? Bangku oon? Do you have . . . ? Mien awt mien? (literally do you have or don’t you?) Water? Took sawt? How much? Tlai bawn mahn? Can you make it cheaper? Sum joe tlai? Do you speak English? Nayuk jes pia-sah onglais tay? I don’t understand Nayuk yuhl tay Please speak slowly Sohm niyay yeut yeut Please repeat that Sohm niyay muhdawng teeiht What time is it? Maung bohn mahn 17
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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Page 291 and 292: Its name translates as “golden ci
Page 293 and 294: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
Page 295 and 296: SHOPPING The central area of Luang
Page 297 and 298: Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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Page 301 and 302: with Western-style toilets and hot
Page 303 and 304: 6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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Page 309 and 310: Central Laos is rarely at the top o
Page 311 and 312: L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
Page 313 and 314: Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
Page 315 and 316: ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
Page 317 and 318: Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Page 321 and 322: DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
Page 323 and 324: Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
Page 325 and 326: More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
Page 327 and 328: WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
Page 329 and 330: (snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
Page 331 and 332: Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
Page 333 and 334: Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
Page 335: There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
Page 339 and 340: HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
Page 341 and 342: English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
Page 343 and 344: GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
Page 345 and 346: Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
Page 347 and 348: Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
Page 349 and 350: Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
Page 351 and 352: Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
Page 353 and 354: The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
Page 355 and 356: MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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