The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Getting There
Boats leave Ban Nakasang pier (about 4km/2 1 ⁄2 miles west of Rte. 13). A ride in a small
boat to Don Det costs $3 and drops you at the most northern part of Don Det and the
northern coast (facing Don Det) on Don Khon.
Where to Stay & Dine
Guesthouses renting out basic bungalows are clustered in both areas in large numbers.
They mostly cost between $3 and $6 and are very similar to each other. They also serve
food from basic kitchens, which are also similar. The Auberge Sala Don Khone
(& 031/212-077; www.salalao.com; $18–$30) on Don Khon is the most upmarket
option. It was built in 1921 by Les Messageries Maritimes as its timber trading headquarters.
This classic French colonial single-story bricked mansion has been used for various
things, including a hospital. Each room is fairly large with separate bathroom and balcony.
Lime-washed walls, bamboo paneled ceiling, hardwood flooring, and rattan armchairs
all contribute to the ambience.
On Don Det, the Monkey Bar is foreign owned and stays open as late as 11pm if you
are looking for a late night out. On Don Khon the Bamboo Bar and Restaurant (main
courses $3–$5) is a floating restaurant that is often well spoken of.
Attractions
The most interesting and popular thing to see around Si Phan Don is the heavily endangered
Irrawaddy dolphins. Often seen by local people as humans in another incarnation,
they have a mystical significance. The south side of Don Khon is where you will
find them. April to May when the weather is dry and the river is low is the best time of
year to see these elegant creatures breaking the surface of the water often in pairs. Boats
can be chartered for about $10 an hour in the village of Ban Hang Khon on the island’s
southern tip.
The Khon Phapaheng Waterfalls (admission $1) is the stretch of water that confounded
French trade ambitions on the Mekong and when you see them you understand
why. A huge volume of water surges powerfully downstream to Cambodia. When the
rains are at their height and the river is high, it is a very impressive site. The Khon Phapheng
falls are of local religious significance, being seen by Buddhists as a place that
spirits become trapped. The same is true of the Somphamit Falls on the western side of
Si Phan Don. Here you can also see local fishermen trapping fish from precarious
wooden causeways using huge bamboo traps. The water is forced powerfully through the
narrow walls of the rocky gorge through which it is flows.
The French may have had their trade ambitions stolen from them by the force of
nature but in small way they tried to ameliorate the mighty force of the Mekong around
Si Phan Don with a small railway across the islands designed to haul a modest amount
of goods from Cambodia across the islands from pier to pier. There is still the remains of
a rusting locomotive. You can follow the trail of the old track across the islands.
4 THE BOLAVEN PLATEAU
This is the coffee-growing gate to the remote southeast of the country where travel is hard
and life is spartan. More and more adventure-enthused tourists take these roads and
indeed the roads have been improved of late. The main attraction of the Bolaven is that
its elevation provides a welcome reprieve from the hot season. After 45 minutes of
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SOUTHERN LAOS 15
THE BOLAVEN PLATEAU