The Best of Cambodia & Laos

318
SOUTHERN LAOS
15
SI PHAN DON (FOUR THOUSAND ISLANDS)
Don Khong
Banks & Currency Exchange There is money exchange (open Mon–Fri 8:30am–
3:30pm) at the Agricultural Promotion Bank near the Mekong Hotel. You can
change Thai baht and U.S. dollars in traveler’s checks or cash.
Internet Access There are a number of small Internet cafes around Muang
Khong. They don’t stay open very late.
Post Office The post office (open Mon–Fri 8am–noon and 1–4pm) is in Muang
Khong to the south of the boat landing just after the first bridge.
Where to Stay & Dine
Auberge Sala Done Khong This is the best hotel in Don Khong and is made up
of two wooden houses. It has a faded colonial kind of grandeur. The rooms are very well
designed and some of the larger ones have their own verandas. On the ground floor is a
restaurant open to guests only. This hotel is a very popular with tour groups.
100m (328 ft.) south of the ferry landing. & 031/212-077. www.salalao.com. 12 units. $33 superior
double; $25 standard double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.
Kangkhong Villa Guesthouse Although set back from the riverfront this hotel is
in an old teak house with large clean rooms. A shaded communal balcony gives you good
views of the river, and is a nice place to sit and chat with other guests. Rooms are large
and well furnished in dark wood. The upstairs rooms are better because they are lighter.
There are also A/C rooms available.
South of the ferry landing across the road from Wat Phuang Kaew. & 031/213-539. 18 units. $10 double
fan; $15 double A/C. No credit cards.
Pon’s Guest House The owner of the Guest House of the same name is very helpful
and is a useful source of information not only on Si Phan Don but also on transport
options for the wider area including border crossings to Cambodia. The rooms here are
very clean and big with either fan or A/C. An upstairs terrace has good river views, while
the downstairs restaurant consistently gets very good reviews.
150m (492 ft.) north of the ferry landing. & 031/214-037. 18 units. $15 double fan; $22 double A/C. No
credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.
DON DET & DON KHON
These two islands south of Don Khong are very popular locations with budget travelers
and the atmosphere is one of endless relaxation. Facilities are very basic throughout both
islands. The area is astonishingly picturesque with emerald green paddies and gently swaying
palm trees. There is very little to see or do but that is exactly the attraction. Nor is it
a place to come and enjoy Lao culture. It is very much a scene for meeting other travelers
and for that reason is a major rallying point for budget travelers and backpackers.
Accommodations are basic but cheap on Don Det while on Don Khon there is a wider
range of options in the mid range. Real luxury, however, has yet to make it down to Si
Phan Don. There are no banks and no post office. There are a few places with Internet
but painfully slow connections. For most things practical you will need to head to Don
Khong. Don Det has no permanent electricity supply, generally only being lit up
between 6 and 10pm.