The Best of Cambodia & Laos

(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra riding Airavata, and Vishnu astride Garuda. The doorways to
both north and south feature ornate inner and outer lintels with scenes from Hindu
mythology, some of which are fairly violent in nature.
There is a Buddha footprint on the face of the cliff, and also boulders fashioned to
resemble elephants and a crocodile. It is said that the crocodile stone may have been the
scene of human sacrifice.
There is an interesting museum on-site, which is well worth a visit. A major festival is
held at Wat Phou each March. During the festival, there are not only religious ceremonies
but also exhibitions of traditional sports such as elephant racing, horse hockey, boat
racing, and others.
Admission is 30,000 kip. Daily 8am–4:30pm.
3 SI PHAN DON (FOUR THOUSAND ISLANDS)
As the Mekong makes its way south to Cambodia it becomes peppered with islands,
sandbars, and rocky outcrops. This area is known as Si Phan Don, which translates as
“Four Thousand Islands.” About 120km (74 miles) south of Pakse, this area is becoming
increasingly popular as a getaway spot, particularly among budget travelers. The series of
islands has major significance in terms of its natural beauty and the uniqueness of its
wildlife, including the heavily threatened Irrawaddy dolphin. It is also where you will
find the largest waterfalls in Southeast Asia, a feature that foiled plans by the French to
use the Mekong as the major trade route they first intended when their empire was the
major force in the area. Khon Phapheng and Somphamit waterfalls remain the major
tourist attractions in the far south and given their dramatic nature one can only speculate
on how disappointed the French colonizers were when they first came across them. The
largest and most developed island is Don Khong, but both Don Det and Don Khon
are very popular places to stay among hammock-swinging aficionados.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse. The turnoff for the islands is about
120km (74 miles) due south (about 3 hr.) and tickets cost 30,000 kip. From the main
road it’s a short tuk-tuk ride to the boat landing at Hat Xai Khun. Don Khong–bound
songthaeaws also cross the river on the car ferry and can take you right into the main town
of Muang Khong. It costs 10¢ per person and 50¢ for a motorbike. Departing songthaeaws
leave from just in front of the main wat. A boat to Don Det or Don Khon costs
$3 per person they leave when the boat is full.
GETTING AROUND
Bicycles cost $1 a day and are the most popular way to explore the islands. You can also
rent small motorbikes for $12 a day.
DON KHONG
The major activity on Don Khong (apart from lying in a hammock) is cycling past rice
fields and looking at the temples that dot the island. The sleepy town of Muang Khong
is the major settlement on the island although there are small villages scattered along the
edges. Some 8km (5 miles) west of Muang Sen at the southern end of the island are a
marketplace and some floating restaurants from which you get good sunset views.
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SOUTHERN LAOS 15
SI PHAN DON (FOUR THOUSAND ISLANDS)