The Best of Cambodia & Laos

316
SOUTHERN LAOS
15
CHAMPASAK
unique in structure, all the parts leading to a shrine where a Shiva lingam (sacred Hindu
phallus) was anointed with water from a mountaintop spring. The temple later became
a center of Theravada Buddhist worship. It still is. In addition to interested tourists both
local and foreign, many come here to make merit.
Initially Wat Phou was linked with the city of Shrestapura, which lay on the bank of
the Mekong River due east of Mount Lingaparvata (which is now called Phou Kao). By
the end of the 5th century the city was already the capital of a kingdom, which connected
with the pre-Angkorian kingdoms of both Chenla and Champa. The first structure on
the site was constructed at this time. The mountain was considered a home of Shiva and
the river an echo of the holy Ganges.
Shrestapura was then superseded by a new city in the period of Angkorian dominance.
The original buildings were replaced, recycling some of their stone blocks. The temple
now seen was built primarily during the Koh Ker and Baphuon era of the 11th century.
Some alterations were made during the following 2 centuries, before the temple, like
most in the empire, was converted to Buddhism under Jayavarman VII. This carried on
after the Lao superseded the Khmer. Like most Khmer temples Wat Phou faces east
(although it’s about 8 degrees off since it is aligned with the river). Including the barays
(the lakes that are a feature of Angkorian temples) it stretches 1.4km ( 3 ⁄4 mile) east from
the source of the spring, past the base of the cliff and then 100m (320 ft.) up the hill.
The accompanying city used to lie east of the temple, on the west bank of the Mekong,
while a road south from the temple itself led past temples, its ultimate destination being
Angkor itself. Approached from that lost city, the first part of the temple you reach are
the barays. There is now one that still contains water. There used to be further reservoirs
north and south of this and on each side of the approaching causeway.
Past the main baray, the two palaces flank a central terrace. They are known as the
north and south palaces; it is thought they were the men’s palace and the women’s palace.
The term “palace” is loosely used here. Their purpose actually remains unknown. The
gender classification is also likely to be apocryphal. Each is made up of a courtyard with
a corridor and entrance on the side and false doors at both the east end and the west end.
The courtyards of both buildings were built of laterite although the walls of the southern
palace were made of sandstone. Both buildings are fenced off and appear to be in a fairly
derelict state although the northern palace is in a slightly better condition. The palaces
are noted mainly for pediments and lintels.
The next terrace is home to a small shrine to Nandi the bull (Shiva’s runaround
vehicle in Hindu mythology). The road connecting Wat Phou and Angkor ran south
from this temple. As you continue west, more staircases (with tough climbing!) lead up
to yet more terraces.
In the penultimate temple a lintel portraying the god Vishnu on Garuda (Vishnu’s
runaround vehicle, a splendid bird) is found on the northeast wall.
After a hard, sweaty climb (bring both a hat and plenty of water) you reach the main
sanctuary culminating in the seven sandstone tiers of the upper terrace and the final sanctuary
representing heaven. There are great views of the plain below from here. The sanctuary
is made up of two parts. The front section, of sandstone, contains Buddha images, while
the rear part of the structure, which used to be home to the Shiva lingam, is empty. Water
from the spring emerging from the cliff about 60m (37 ft.) to the southwest of the sanctuary
was once channeled along stone aqueducts into this rear chamber, providing continuous
bathing to the holy lingam. The sanctuary was built later than the north and south and
belongs to the Baphuon period of the later part of the 11th century. The east side features
three doorways from south to the north. The pediments show Krishna defeating the naga