The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SOUTHERN LAOS
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FAST FACTS: CHAMPASAK
Heritage Museum (Rd. 13; open Mon–Fri 8:30–11:30am and 1:30–4pm; admission
5,000 kip) has a few interesting historical artifacts from ancient temples, interesting
textiles, musical instruments, and a fair amount of dreary Communist propaganda.
There are also quite a number of wats in the city, none of which are particularly distinguished.
2 CHAMPASAK
To describe this town as “sleepy” doesn’t do justice to just what a quiet place it is. It is a
really nice place to relax for a couple of days enjoying major events such as a dog barking
or a chicken crossing the road. There are some very pleasant riverside guesthouses and
hotels and you are only 8km (5 miles) from Wat Phou. Once accommodations were
bare-bones, but that is changing with the recent inauguration of the Inthira Hotel.
Astonishingly this scenic hamlet on the western side of the Mekong (you have to cross
the river coming from Pakse) was once a seat of the empire with lands stretching from
the Annamite Mountains right into what is now Thailand. Just as astonishing is that it
was also a center of administration for the French, hence some of the distinctively beautiful
French architecture you see up the main street.
GETTING THERE
Buses leave from Pakse’s southern bus terminal and drop you off at the purely ornamental
central roundabout. If you are coming on a rented motorcycle you will need to
negotiate the ferry crossing. This is not hard. If you are nervous about loading the bike
across the gangplank get one of the crew to do it for you. The ferry from Ban Muang on
the eastern side of the river costs 10,000 kip. Make sure you bring a hat: There is no
shade from the burning sun and the crossing takes 15 minutes. It is real heatstroke territory
unless you are careful.
GETTING AROUND
Champasak is eminently walkable. Guesthouses also rent rattling bicycles.
Champasak
Banks & Currency Exchange The Lao Development Bank (open times Mon–Fri
8:30am–3:30pm) on the southern edge of town changes traveler’s checks and
cash. There is no ATM.
Internet Access There are a couple of Internet cafes up the main street. They
tend to close very early; don’t expect to be surfing past 7pm.
Post Office There is a post office where you can make international phone calls.
Tourism Information The Chamapassak District Visitor Information Center
(& 020/220-6215; open Mon–Fri 8am–4:30pm) can give you background on
local sights and transportation options. They can also fix you up with a local
guide.