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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel was described by one travel guide as an<br />
eyesore. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is gaudy, flamboyant, and absurd.<br />
All these things make it interesting and fun. It was originally constructed in the late ’60s<br />
as a palace for Prince Chao Boun Oum, the last prince <strong>of</strong> Champasak and Lao premier<br />
between 1960 and 1962. He fled to France in 1974 as a Pathet Lao victory became<br />
imminent and he died soon after. It was renovated in the early ’90s and now provides<br />
unique experience at a wonderfully cheap price. This vast rambling building is characterized<br />
by mosaic pillars, lots <strong>of</strong> gold-painted motifs, giant potted plants, and dark wooden<br />
floors. Some <strong>of</strong> the single rooms have small windows, which can make them seem quite<br />
dark although they are appointed in a suitably old-world colonial style. <strong>The</strong> VIP suites<br />
are huge, sitting on top <strong>of</strong> the building on a kind <strong>of</strong> plinth with a shaded veranda on all<br />
four sides. <strong>The</strong>y have great views <strong>of</strong> the Se Don River (if you’re there in May you will also<br />
be treated to the sight <strong>of</strong> the orange flowering frangipani). <strong>The</strong>re is an elevator down to<br />
reception running down the outside <strong>of</strong> the building, but it is glass-sided so is a bit alarming<br />
if you have a problem with heights.<br />
Rd. 13. & 031/212-263. Fax 031/212-781. www.champasak-palace-hotel.com. 115 units. $35 standard;<br />
$45 superior; $60 VIP suite; $100 queen suite; $200 king suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness<br />
room; room service; Wi-Fi (lobby and VIP rooms only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />
Pakse Hotel This is a superb midrange hotel. <strong>The</strong> building used to be a cinema.<br />
Recently renovated, the whole place has an understated class and style demonstrating<br />
perfectly judged taste. Some <strong>of</strong> the rooms have excellent views and all are well<br />
appointed. Service here is much better than average in <strong>Laos</strong>. It is a well-run operation.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is also a very nice (and refreshingly breezy) ro<strong>of</strong>top restaurant, which provides the<br />
perfect setting to contemplate a Mekong sunset.<br />
Rd. 5. & 031/212-131. Fax 031/212-719. www.paksehotel.com. 63 units. $25 economy; $28 standard;<br />
$38 superior; $45 deluxe; $53 panorama; $71 minisuite; $96 VIP suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants;<br />
Internet room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />
Sabaidy 2 This very cheap and basic option is for the full-on backpacker niche market.<br />
If you are not into the international ethos <strong>of</strong> bongos, banana pancakes, and loosely<br />
fitting pajamas then you might want to steer clear. Sabaidy 2 receives excellent reviews<br />
from the market it serves and if you are on a supertight budget then it’s definitely the one<br />
for you. This guesthouse is very popular and <strong>of</strong>ten full. <strong>The</strong>re is a little restaurantcourtyard<br />
at the front where the initiated can swap yarns <strong>of</strong> the road.<br />
Rd. 24. & 031/212-992. $2.95 dormitory; $4.70 single with shared bathroom; $6.90 double with shared<br />
bathroom; $10 triple with shared bathroom; $8 double with shower. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant.<br />
Sala Champa This is a slightly rambling affair in one <strong>of</strong> Pakse’s few old French colonial<br />
villas. Although the reception area has an incongruous air <strong>of</strong> decay the hotel itself is<br />
atmospheric, with polished wooden floors, old-world furniture, Lao silk furnishings, and<br />
pleasant leafy balconies. <strong>The</strong> rooms increase in price the higher up the house you go.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is one suite that is beautifully appointed, very much with an eye to the colonial<br />
Indochina aesthetic. Rooms in separate chalets lining the courtyard are considerably<br />
cheaper than those in the main house, because they are also considerably smaller. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
is a pleasant sitting area between reception and the courtyard, and a restaurant and beer<br />
garden are attached.<br />
Rd. 14. & 031/212-273. Fax 031/212-646. 17 units. $14–$26 double; $38 suite. No credit cards. Amenities:<br />
Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />
311<br />
SOUTHERN LAOS 15<br />
PAKSE