The Best of Cambodia & Laos

306
CENTRAL LAOS
14
THA KHEK
groups of Thais from across the river in Nakhon Phanom. It is, in fact, all great fun if you
don’t mind crowds. It gets very busy and even a little raucous late in the evening.
Setthathirat Rd. & 051/212-150. Main courses $3–$5. Daily noon–1am.
ATTRACTIONS
Tham Pha Pa In 2004, a local man trying to trap bats discovered this long-hidden
cavern 18km (11 miles) east of town containing 229 Buddha images. Ranging in size
from 15 centimeters to as high as 1m (31 ⁄4 ft.), they had remained undiscovered for as
long as 600 years. Tham Pha Pa has now become quite an important center of pilgrimage
for both Lao and Thai people. The best way to get there is on a rented motorcycle.
Alternatively you can hire a tuk-tuk for the day (around $15, depending on your haggling
prowess).
Admission 3,000 kip. Daily 8am–noon and 1–4pm.
Wat Phra That Sikhotabong This temple 6km (33 ⁄4 miles) south of town is Tha
Khek’s main attraction. The stupa is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the
region. Legend says that the present-day structure was constructed on the site of a much
earlier chedi. This incarnation was built in the 19th century during the reign of the
doomed King Chau Anou. It was restored a number of times through the 20th century.
The golden stupa is in a typically Lao style and occupies scenic grounds right beside the
Mekong. There is a major Buddhist festival here that usually takes place in February or
thereabouts, depending on the phase of the moon.
Admission 3,000 kip. Daily 8am–6pm.
Mahaxai Caves and the Khammouane Protected Area East of Tha
Khek is a range of magnificent limestone karst formations and these natural glories are
becoming a bigger and bigger draw for the town. The Mahaxai Caves that riddle the jagged
mountains and ridges can be done as a day trip either by motorcycle or a tuk-tuk rented
for the day. There are many caves, but the most visited is Tham En, named after the huge
flocks of sparrows rumored to make this place home. On public holidays this is a popular
picnic spot for locals and can get quite busy. Tham Pha In is often considered to be the
most dramatic cave. There is a pool inside illuminated by an opening in the cave roof. The
water glows emerald and in local folklore evokes the emerald green of the skin of the Hindu
God Indra after which it is named. Don’t touch the water. It is considered sacred. Mahaxai
town is 50km (31 miles) east of the caves and is beautifully located nestled into the spectacular
limestone scenery on the banks of the Xe Bang Fai River. It’s a great place to simply
sit and look at the view. To penetrate the Khammouane Limestone formations further it
is best to go an organized tour since the area is remote (for operators, see p. 281). For many
the Tham Lot Kong Lo Cave is the real highlight of a trip in this area. This is a naturally
formed 7km (4 1 ⁄3-mile) tunnel running right through a limestone mountain. The river
flows through it until one emerges into a hidden valley. As kayaking adventures go this is a
magical experience. Don’t forget to bring a flashlight and some plastic sandals. In some
places the water is shallow and you have to drag your vessel. Most tours will also organize
a village stay giving you an insight into daily life in this remote area. There is also an ecoresort
in the park, the Sala Hinboun (& 041/212-445; fax 041/252-096; www.salalao.com/
salalao/content/hinboun.htm). This all-timber offering is situated on the banks of the
Hinboun River. Reached by bus and boat, it makes a convenient base from which to
explore surrounding villages and caves.