The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is simply bizarre. It is housed in a former French
police station and on first sight you might think you are entering one of those Indochina
hangovers. You are not. It’s more of a strange motel with some fairly suspicious “karaoke”
activities taking place in an annex at the back. The building does have a quirky charm
and a beautiful riverside location. It’s a fun place to stay if you keep your sense of humor.
Setthathirat Rd. & 051/212-225. 23 units. $8. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV,
minibar.
Thakhek Travel Lodge This is the best budget option, with large, clean rooms in a
rambling house or around an adjacent courtyard. The staff is super friendly and helpful and
they provide all kinds of information on things to see and do. They also rent out motorcycles
and bicycles. What is there not to like? The drawback is its location. Tha Khek is
about 3km (2 miles) away from the river and out of town on the bustling main road. If you
factor in the $7-a-day motorcycle rental into your room cost, then it makes more sense, but
since being in Tha Khek is largely about being by the river, it is a question of whether you
would rather pay more or pay the same and put up with a grubbier riverside option. The
Thakhek Travel Lodge also charges a $2 towel deposit, which is highly unusual.
BanVienviley Moung, Rte. 13. & 030/530-0145. 15 units. $2.50 dormitory; $5 double shared bathroom;
$9 double with bathroom. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; motorcycle rental. In room: A/C.
WHERE TO DINE
Eating in Tha Khek is generally a fairly grim affair, especially when compared to Savannakhet.
Lining the river are little shop-front outfits selling dubious barbecue. Most of the
bigger hotels have restaurants serving a mixture of Lao and Western fare and, as ever in
Laos, you can seek out the khao ji pâté vendors with their delicious warm baguettes. None
of the restaurants below take credit cards.
Duc Restaurant LAO This is a place for no-nonsense Lao food, particularly noodles.
It is in a very nice riverside location. There are other similar places along the riverfront,
but this one is particularly popular.
Setthathirat Rd. No phone. Main courses $1.20–$2. Daily 6am–10pm.
Sabaidee Tha Khek! WESTERN/LAO This new restaurant is a very good option
for Western food. They offer a range of dishes from fish and chips to noodle soup. It is
very much in the standard backpacker tradition but it does do the job. The staff is very
friendly if a little slow. A very bizarre but interesting dish on the menu is the “crabsticks
with Japanese mustard very hot!” The warning was appreciated because the mustard is
indeed hot enough to melt the paint from the body of a Toyota Corolla. If you have sinus
problems, this culinary adventure may give you some relief. They also sell DVDs and
they have a TV on generally showing the BBC, so it’s a good place to catch up on with
what is going on beyond the Mekong River.
Fountain Sq. & 051/251-245. Main courses $2–$3.50. Daily 8am–2pm and 5–10pm.
Smile Barge Restaurant LAO If you want to get even closer to the river than the
vendors on the banks, head for one of the floating restaurants. The Smile Barge is the most
popular. They also have a related nonfloating restaurant on the other side of the road
facing the river. If you like the caterwaul of karaoke and think your skills will impress the
locals, then you are entering heaven. If you don’t, then you are most certainly entering hell.
It’s a typical Lao/Vietnamese affair and is very popular with the tone-deaf, and visiting
305
CENTRAL LAOS 14
THA KHEK