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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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304<br />

CENTRAL LAOS<br />

14<br />

THA KHEK<br />

Vientiane or Pakse before you arrive. Remote Asia (www.remoteasia.com) <strong>of</strong>fers personalized<br />

tours in the area and they can be booked online via their website.<br />

Tha Khek<br />

Banks & Currency Exchange BCEL (Vientiane Rd.; & 051/212-686) changes<br />

cash and traveler’s checks and makes advances on MasterCard and Visa. <strong>The</strong> Lao<br />

Development Bank (Kuvoravong Rd.; & 051/212-089) will change cash only.<br />

Internet Access <strong>The</strong>re are a number <strong>of</strong> Internet cafes on Kuvoravong Road leading<br />

straight up from the central square to Rte. 13. <strong>The</strong>y are mainly devoted to<br />

kids playing computer games, so don’t expect peace and quiet.<br />

Post Office Tha Khek’s Post Office is on Kuvoravong Road.<br />

Tourism Information <strong>The</strong> Tourist Information Office (Thanon Vientiane;<br />

& 051/212-512) has plenty <strong>of</strong> information on local trekking options and tour<br />

operators, and can put you in touch with an English-speaking guide.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

One drawback <strong>of</strong> the gentrification <strong>of</strong> Tha Khek is that there is a real dearth <strong>of</strong> decent<br />

midrange and budget accommodations. Until recently there were a couple <strong>of</strong> dilapidated<br />

but pleasant old French colonial hotels with black-and-white tiled floors and bad plumbing<br />

that more than made up for their logistical deficiencies through atmosphere and<br />

charm. <strong>The</strong>y are now gone and what remains is fairly grim, with the notable exception<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Travel Lodge. <strong>The</strong> problem there, though, is that it is a long, long way from the<br />

river and the old town. If you are on a budget and want to stay near the river be prepared<br />

to grit your teeth slightly and put up with a fair amount <strong>of</strong> sleaze.<br />

Hotel Riveria From the outside, Tha Khek’s only luxury hotel is a bit <strong>of</strong> an eyesore<br />

and evokes thoughts <strong>of</strong> just how bad totalitarian architecture can be. Once you’re inside,<br />

this impression melts away. <strong>The</strong> hotel was totally renovated in 2008 and it was done very<br />

thoughtfully. On the upper floors you have splendid views <strong>of</strong> the river to the front and<br />

the limestone mountain ranges to the rear. <strong>The</strong> decor is “Lao lite,” with silk furnishings<br />

and ornamental carvings. <strong>The</strong> rooms are not huge but are very respectable with plenty <strong>of</strong><br />

light. <strong>The</strong> staff is very friendly and understated with a good command <strong>of</strong> English. This<br />

hotel is in no way spectacular, but it is perfectly pleasant.<br />

Setthathirat Rd. & 051/250-000. Fax 051/252-188. www.hotelriveriathakhek.com. 56 units. $36 deluxe;<br />

$51 super deluxe; $56 executive suite; $66 VIP suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; room service; Internet;<br />

minibar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />

Inthira Hotel <strong>The</strong> sister operation <strong>of</strong> the hotel <strong>of</strong> the same name in Champasak tries<br />

to pull <strong>of</strong>f the same trick <strong>of</strong> providing retro colonial luxury, but in this case fails. <strong>The</strong><br />

problem is largely that the rooms are very dark and quite shabby. It is certainly not overpriced,<br />

however, being slightly only half the price <strong>of</strong> its more magnificent sister in the<br />

south. <strong>The</strong> staff is pleasant and friendly and speak good English. In all, though it fails to<br />

be what it wants to be, it is still not a bad option.<br />

Anou Rd. &/fax 051/251-237. www.inthirahotel.com. 12 units. $18 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant;<br />

bar; Internet; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.

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