The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Dinosaurs in Laos
Quite strangely, the Savannakhet district has been the scene of some major
dinosaur discoveries. The Dinosaur Museum (Thanon Khanthabuli; & 041/
212-597; open 8am–noon and 1–4pm; admission 5,000 kip) displays some of
the discoveries with captions in French and English. The biggest fossilized
dinosaur is dubbed the “Big Lizard” and is an unfathomable 110 million years
old.
There formerly was also a Provincial Museum at the southern edge of
town containing artifacts of interest largely concerning more recent history.
At the time of writing the museum is closed indefinitely, the mysterious
explanation solemnly delivered being that “something is broken with it inside.”
come across the property, it is a bit of a shock. Among the crumbling French architecture
surrounding it gleams this perfect example of elegant restoration to old Indochina, displaying
thoughtful design and good taste in furnishings and ambience. The food is
authentically gourmet in quality with a fine range of wine. To compound its near perfection
even further the prices may be higher than many restaurants around town, but for
what you get it’s an absolute steal. If you are tired of the road, wilting from the sun, or
simply in need of pampering, the Dao Savanh is positively restorative. There is also a
brand-new Internet cafe attached with well-maintained machines.
089/1, Unit 12, Simuang St. & 041/260-888. Main courses 90,000 kip–150,000 kip; small plates and
entrees 20,000 kip–26,000 kip; lunch menu 65,000 kip; tasting menu 165,000 kip. Daily 7am–10:30pm.
Restaurant Café Chez LAO/WESTERN This is a very pleasant cafe/brasserie run
by a Lao-French family native to both Savannakhet and Paris. There is a wide selection
of French and Lao food, an excellent wine cellar, and above all a fantastic global selection
of both tea and coffee. The Lao/Cambodian luklak (fried beef served with fries, salad,
and a fried egg) is above average and the Western breakfast is very good indeed. The
imported steaks are very expensive (120,000 kip), but the meat does come from France.
A local steak is 56,000 kip in comparison. The place attracts an interesting NGO crowd.
Bane Xayaphoum, Chaimeunag Rd. & 041/215-190. Main courses 56,000 kip. Daily 7am–11pm.
The SavanLaoderm LAO With the whole expanse of the Mekong spanning the
town, it is amazing that there is only one riverside floating restaurant in Savannakhet.
The SavanLaoderm is the place to come for the full celebratory communal family night
out. It’s on a large breezy platform on the Mekong with lots of wood and bamboo. The
sunset views are superb and the atmosphere is not menaced by the tuneless wail of karaoke
that can so often blight a situation such as this. The menu is encyclopedic and the
steamboat-style delivery is popular among the large groups of both Lao and Thai visitors.
Thahae Rd. & 041/252-124. Main courses 25,000 kip–60,000 kip. Daily 5–11pm.
Xokxay Restaurant LAO Just opposite the Dao Sanvanh this utterly unpretentious
traditional Lao eatery offers a fine range of dishes, including many particular to
Savanahkhet. The owner, Monsieur Nasirak, is justifiably proud of his Nam “Fer Nam,”
301
CENTRAL LAOS 14
SAVANNAKHET